Hello there! I'm very impress with what you done, so that I bought a alternator to try the same thing, but I don't know how to hook up. Could you tell me how did you hook up it and what do I need to buy to make it works.Thanks.
Hello there! I'm very impress with what you done, so that I bought a alternator to try the same thing, but I don't know how to hook up. Canyou tell me how did you did it and what do I need to buy to make it works.Thanks.
OK, thanks for your advices. It works well, but there is a little problem with potentiometer. It runs only with RC reciever. The current from the ESC way to reciever is about 5 Amps and voltage 5 Volts. Does it mean, that my Potentiometer should have power 25W?
@MrJDesign. No the rotor voltage should be well below 12V, on this setup it a 6Volt motorbike battery was run through a car's ignition coil to bring it down to about 3.5V.
What happens when the rotor coil's voltage is too high is that the ESC cannot get a position reference and the rotor will turn slowly and then stop as the ESC senses that it must be doing overcurrent. Drop the rotor voltage and give it a go. The lower the rotor voltage,the faster it will run but with less torque. Best wishes.
Hi MrJdesign, theres is no pot connected to the motor i'm afraid, that is a 3 phase brushless dc motor to electronically commutate the rotor shaft. However, the pot on the controller is a standard 5K ohm linear pot that varies the frequency at which the controller commutates the rotor shaft. The rotor shaft has 6V from an old bike battery connected to power the electromagnet onit. I hope that answers your question? Keep well.
@smittiefish I tried it, but it doesn´t work. I used a 12 volt battery for a controller and that same voltage is used for rotor wires. Should it be lower?
@smittiefish If you are referring to my electric go kart as "toy" then you simply do not know how good it can pull stuff. It can out pull a lawnmower with a 20 HP gas engine easily since the torque of my motor is far greater than that of a gas engine in those HP ranges. The only heat type engines with more torque than electric are steam engines and rocket engines. Electric crushes everything else.
@EETechs: Agreed once more. Please accept my apology. My country is filled with singleminded engineers and that just kind of gets met flaring at any comment.
"Electric crushes everything else" - Agreed even once more again.
I ordered a Kelly BLDC controller, will be fitting Hall Effect sensors to the new alternator soon to eliminate non-start under load situation. The the bike should be starting to take shape.
@smittiefish The problem is that a lot of the R/C hobbyist will defend that the motor has a KV even when proven wrong. Go to any R/C forum and you will see for yourself the shear stupidity of the members on those forums. As far as varying the voltage on the rotor, it is stupid to do so since you are hurting your torque performance. If you do that on a synchronous motor you run the risk of it going out of synchronous operation. But with an ESC it will compensate for this. The speed will change.
People, voltage DOES NOT CONTROL the speed of synchronous motors like this guy is running it. Frequency does. The reason people cite a KV rating is because they are too ignorant to know that the ESC is varying the frequency for speed changes and the voltage for the inductive reactance change caused by the frequency change so that torque will not be lost. The so called "KV" rating is the ESC adjusting the frequency from the feedback it gets from the Back emf of the windings.
Also if any of you have doubt then take an alternator and hook it up to a 3-phase variac which varies the voltage of AC. Mains frequency is 60 HZ and alternators are typically 14-pole so the speed should be about 514 RPM. If you vary the variac you should notice that the speed DID NOT change. In fact if you go too high in voltage you will actually either blow fuses or cause a fire from the windings getting super hot.
Hello there. With self-excited do you mean a rotor with permanent magnet if I understand you correctly? If so, yes for sure, the 5V on the rotor is to energise the electromagnet embedded in it. 6V is the max I could go before the rotor magnetism saturates and operation becomes totally uneffective. Kind regards.
I would like to do this, so I can use the alternator to start a single cylinder petrol engine. Once started, the alternator returns to its original function.
Early experiments, about 25 years ago, indicate that the low speed torque is very impressive. I hope to see you motoring around on your electric bike soon.
Thanks for the info Smittie, it makes things a lot clearer now. An alternator BLDC is definitely on my to-do list. At the moment I'm busy rewinding a stator to convert one to a bipolar stepper. (Pynlik :-) The control of the BLDC motor seems very similar to that of a bipolar stepper.
Lekker video Smittie! Could you give some more details about your setup? What do you mean by 6 coils? Do you mean stator field windings? I thought there was only one per phase. Laat my weet asb.
The setup is rather simple. Iti s an 80Amp Electronic Speed Controller for a radio controlled helicopter, it is signalled by a little pulse width modulator with a built in Battery eliminator circuit, thus it is is powered by the ESC saving an extra power source(5V) for that too.
Diodes have been removed form the alternator and controller simply connected to the three stator winding wires.
Ek tik maar in Engels vir die arme manne wat nie boerewors ken nie.
This alternator has 2 stator windings in series for each phase to make up 3 stator poles. The voltage on the rotor winding on this setup must be kept under 5V for it to start. For now im using a 6V motorbike battery and ignition coil in series as a resistor, later i might build a Pulse Width Modulator so the torque can be controlled to make it more energy efficient for the load it might carry.
Kind regards, say hello to the home folks on the Island
@dajsinjo Hello friend I care as much work done till now, I would like and if it is inconvenient you send me plans as put into operation this alternator as a motor and so I try to make a start to have power in the snatch . thanks my email is alvaroparraga2003@hotmail.com
Hello there! I'm very impress with what you done, so that I bought a alternator to try the same thing, but I don't know how to hook up. Could you tell me how did you hook up it and what do I need to buy to make it works.Thanks.
Ramaom25 9 months ago
Hello there! I'm very impress with what you done, so that I bought a alternator to try the same thing, but I don't know how to hook up. Canyou tell me how did you did it and what do I need to buy to make it works.Thanks.
Ramaom25 9 months ago
OK, thanks for your advices. It works well, but there is a little problem with potentiometer. It runs only with RC reciever. The current from the ESC way to reciever is about 5 Amps and voltage 5 Volts. Does it mean, that my Potentiometer should have power 25W?
MrJDdesign 1 year ago
@MrJDesign. No the rotor voltage should be well below 12V, on this setup it a 6Volt motorbike battery was run through a car's ignition coil to bring it down to about 3.5V.
What happens when the rotor coil's voltage is too high is that the ESC cannot get a position reference and the rotor will turn slowly and then stop as the ESC senses that it must be doing overcurrent. Drop the rotor voltage and give it a go. The lower the rotor voltage,the faster it will run but with less torque. Best wishes.
smittiefish 1 year ago
Hello, God job
Do you have a plan for this electric configuration. I try to make this experience.
Thanks
Hydropower72 1 year ago
Hi MrJdesign, theres is no pot connected to the motor i'm afraid, that is a 3 phase brushless dc motor to electronically commutate the rotor shaft. However, the pot on the controller is a standard 5K ohm linear pot that varies the frequency at which the controller commutates the rotor shaft. The rotor shaft has 6V from an old bike battery connected to power the electromagnet onit. I hope that answers your question? Keep well.
smittiefish 1 year ago
@smittiefish I tried it, but it doesn´t work. I used a 12 volt battery for a controller and that same voltage is used for rotor wires. Should it be lower?
MrJDdesign 1 year ago
Hi, what type of potentiometer did you connected to controller?
MrJDdesign 1 year ago
@smittiefish If you are referring to my electric go kart as "toy" then you simply do not know how good it can pull stuff. It can out pull a lawnmower with a 20 HP gas engine easily since the torque of my motor is far greater than that of a gas engine in those HP ranges. The only heat type engines with more torque than electric are steam engines and rocket engines. Electric crushes everything else.
EETechs 1 year ago
@EETechs: Agreed once more. Please accept my apology. My country is filled with singleminded engineers and that just kind of gets met flaring at any comment.
"Electric crushes everything else" - Agreed even once more again.
I ordered a Kelly BLDC controller, will be fitting Hall Effect sensors to the new alternator soon to eliminate non-start under load situation. The the bike should be starting to take shape.
smittiefish 1 year ago
@smittiefish The problem is that a lot of the R/C hobbyist will defend that the motor has a KV even when proven wrong. Go to any R/C forum and you will see for yourself the shear stupidity of the members on those forums. As far as varying the voltage on the rotor, it is stupid to do so since you are hurting your torque performance. If you do that on a synchronous motor you run the risk of it going out of synchronous operation. But with an ESC it will compensate for this. The speed will change.
EETechs 1 year ago
Agreed. The ESC was just a beginning of a learning curve. RC gear doesn't tickle me at all. I guess we like bigger, stronger machines.
smittiefish 1 year ago
People, voltage DOES NOT CONTROL the speed of synchronous motors like this guy is running it. Frequency does. The reason people cite a KV rating is because they are too ignorant to know that the ESC is varying the frequency for speed changes and the voltage for the inductive reactance change caused by the frequency change so that torque will not be lost. The so called "KV" rating is the ESC adjusting the frequency from the feedback it gets from the Back emf of the windings.
EETechs 1 year ago
Also if any of you have doubt then take an alternator and hook it up to a 3-phase variac which varies the voltage of AC. Mains frequency is 60 HZ and alternators are typically 14-pole so the speed should be about 514 RPM. If you vary the variac you should notice that the speed DID NOT change. In fact if you go too high in voltage you will actually either blow fuses or cause a fire from the windings getting super hot.
EETechs 1 year ago
Any idea on what kind of horsepower this is putting out?
jimrojas62 1 year ago
Would using a self excited aternator eliminate the need of the 5v source?
jimrojas62 1 year ago
@jimrojas62
Hello there. With self-excited do you mean a rotor with permanent magnet if I understand you correctly? If so, yes for sure, the 5V on the rotor is to energise the electromagnet embedded in it. 6V is the max I could go before the rotor magnetism saturates and operation becomes totally uneffective. Kind regards.
Neill
smittiefish 1 year ago
@smittiefish
I ordered the esc & tester from ebay today. I want to try this on a 3 phase 3HP AC motor.
jimrojas62 1 year ago
I would like to do this, so I can use the alternator to start a single cylinder petrol engine. Once started, the alternator returns to its original function.
Early experiments, about 25 years ago, indicate that the low speed torque is very impressive. I hope to see you motoring around on your electric bike soon.
PonyHaven 1 year ago
Thanks for the info Smittie, it makes things a lot clearer now. An alternator BLDC is definitely on my to-do list. At the moment I'm busy rewinding a stator to convert one to a bipolar stepper. (Pynlik :-) The control of the BLDC motor seems very similar to that of a bipolar stepper.
jq4t49f3 1 year ago
Lekker video Smittie! Could you give some more details about your setup? What do you mean by 6 coils? Do you mean stator field windings? I thought there was only one per phase. Laat my weet asb.
jq4t49f3 1 year ago
The setup is rather simple. Iti s an 80Amp Electronic Speed Controller for a radio controlled helicopter, it is signalled by a little pulse width modulator with a built in Battery eliminator circuit, thus it is is powered by the ESC saving an extra power source(5V) for that too.
Diodes have been removed form the alternator and controller simply connected to the three stator winding wires.
Ek tik maar in Engels vir die arme manne wat nie boerewors ken nie.
smittiefish 1 year ago
This alternator has 2 stator windings in series for each phase to make up 3 stator poles. The voltage on the rotor winding on this setup must be kept under 5V for it to start. For now im using a 6V motorbike battery and ignition coil in series as a resistor, later i might build a Pulse Width Modulator so the torque can be controlled to make it more energy efficient for the load it might carry.
Kind regards, say hello to the home folks on the Island
smittiefish 1 year ago
I did my conversion and waiting for controller and servo tester.
I orderd same servo tester, and 200A heli controller that lookes like yours.
Good to know esc can work at 24V !
but servo tester is from 4.5 to 5.5 right ?
Will rotor burn out at higher voltage?
is it originally 14 or 28V?
nice work !
dajsinjo 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@dajsinjo Hello friend I care as much work done till now, I would like and if it is inconvenient you send me plans as put into operation this alternator as a motor and so I try to make a start to have power in the snatch . thanks my email is alvaroparraga2003@hotmail.com
alvarop63 2 months ago