Indoor Rock Climbing Techniques : How to Fall when the Lead in Indoor Rock Climbing

[Northernblades]

LEARN HOW TO FALL ahahahaha

I hate to troll,  but you woudl think you could have taken a real lead fall?

0:25 Where is your draw? How far should you have fallen?

you would not have fallen at all, if your belayer had not given you 6 feet of slack.

Afraid of going splat on a vertical wall? Seriusly, you should have at least taken a small lead fall.

You should feel shame.

Never grap ANYTHING when you fall

rope grabber, you should feel shame.

[EdMajinLee199999]

this is not indoor ROCK climbing. You are not climbing on rock.

[BulldogBJJ]

(THE BEGINNING) HI, im the not so much of an expert about climbing in behalf of "dont know what the hell we are talking about village". and in this scene just like all the other scenes ill b leaving key points out that may kill you and give you false information as much as possible without seeming suspicious. Ik right now u probably think that im about to shit myself but i will try my best not to. now lets get started with your one way ticket to screwing the rest of ur life up if u live. dumass

[jorammv]

where is the warning not to go to a certivite trainer before trying any of ties tec. its dangerous and if you only saw this video you can make mistakes and your friend die's

[sarvelaj]

Indoor Rock Climbing "How to Die" Video.

[wankel7]

He was 2 or 3 clips up. There is very little rope drag. He fell at least 6 feet. Of course the belayer is coming off the ground. Never grab the rope. If you take a large fall with your handson the rope...your hand could smash into your face.

[Digdigs2]

A little hop by the belayer is cool - but the leader should NOT GRAB THE ROPE!!! A quote from thebmc.co.uk "If the climber ... immediately grab the rope above the knot on his harness to stabilise his fall in an upright position, .. rope may tangle or loop around the climber’s hand or fingers before he is able to grab this rope with both hands; and at the moment of impact when this rope tightens, it may cause...finger cut off by tightening of looped rope around it."

[CornyCobb]

@Merumountain You're not supposed to take the belayer off the ground? You, sir, are either lying about how long you've been climbing, or you have been climbing the wrong way for 14 years. You take the belayer off the ground from your weight of the fall. The only way to stop this is to use a daisy chain (climbing term, you might not know what that is) to anchor yourself to the ground, and you DON'T want to use that while leading because it will make your fall HURT. BAD.

[AlexDaDojoDude]

@merumountain The belayer jumps to make the fall softer and prepare in case of coming off the ground unintentionally. I wouldn't want you belaying me if you weren't jumping for bigger falls...experience means shit all if you were doing it wrong from the start.

[alibarnes94]

Erm, sorry. You use a dynamic rope to absorb the force of the fall. You're belayer should not be jumping.

[MrMattaoe]

also why dont u grab the rope? why is that bad? sorry im new to leading just looking for some tips to stay safe!

[RYDERkN]

@MrMattaoe if you fall 30 feet in lead climbing outdoors your torso may keep going down and you can get hurt, but indoors you really need not, but always get feet out

[ULTIM8PWN]

LOL intermediate village...

[deanano]

Is 'exsorb' a word? Maybe it's a word that only experts use.

[taylorkerscher10]

wow, this was really pointless 

[jjnicok]

i think i actually hate this guy

[akaAlexthekid]

Haha I cant believe people are still telling Merumountain he's wrong, do you not think that in the past year he's heard it hundreds of times already, just one more thing about the video, wear a helmet!!!

[jaenadar]

Way too much slack there, and the belayer doesn't even hold the rope correctly. Why did you make this video? :(

[fmead99]

@jaenadar

Too much slack? Hardly, all part of a dynamic belay. As far as holding the rope, if he feels more comfortable that way, then let him.

[jaenadar]

@fmead99 Holding the rope like that is a major security risk, it's not about personal prefence. It's not dynamic belaying, it's bad and sloppy and it sure is not the way you would teach a beginner to belay.

[fmead99]

@jaenadar Meh, I'd rather have a belayer who feels comfortable. The rotation of the hand makes little difference. As for the rope, nothing wrong with some slack in the system. It is personal preference. If you want to be slammed against the wall. Then it's your call. No point arguing on here.

[Northernblades]

@fmead99 It is not profesional prefference, or style, or anyting lke that.

what you see here is CRAP. pure ans siple.

Climber took a 4 inch fall from a draw at his waist, and fell 6 feet, onto a blayer using TERRIBLE technique. Comfort, come with framiliarity. Framiliarise yourself with doing it right. then you will become not only comfortable, but COMPETANT.

[AuStInStUaRt]

seems like they just walked in and said hey you come shoot a vid for us

[Merumountain]

Ok to all comments.

[drufian]

Men you`re discussing nonsense things like holding the rope while falling. I think these are things that happen in miliseconds and arent so important as a good belay technic. We can see "PROS" videos (Sharma, Mcclure,Ondra) and they haven´t what we could say its a good falling technic. But what you can bet your life on they have a good belayer cariyingfor their lifes. SO PLEASE STOP FLAME THESE NOT SO GOOD VIDEOS WITH YOUR SUPERGROWED EGOS AND TAKE A TIME TO TEACH NEWBIES THE BEST YOU CAN.

[Lollypoplover79]

Can someone put a video but with some one knowing what they are doing because I am going tomorrow and have no idea

[P3313]

This movie is absolutely worthless. Why even make this. 

[regorviii]

Yeah dude, not liking that brake hand at all. Why not reshoot and repost? (if you must)

[RyanLeona4]

Where is this gym?

[Cheesemax96]

you grabbed the rope. that could cost a finger

[8bitArtist]

jesus christ do you really need to have a transcript of the whole conversation

[mh339480]

Belayer with a thumb up/open handed grip on the rope? Fuck that... You'd never belay me...

[p8ntballerTV]

im gonna go ahead and guess this guy does not lead climb lol

[FlyFishingPro97]

an i noticed another mistake ... the belayer should not allow enough slack for you to fall that much the rope should be semi tight so you only fall about a foot or so due to the elasticity of the rope and prevents injury if you do not know how to absorb a fall.

[CoreyJKelly]

Is he saying "exorbs"?

[talkto20john]

@CoreyJKelly yep!

[mawahari]

THUMB TOWARDS THE ROPE THUMB TOWARDS THE ROPE THUMB TOWARDS THE ROPE SOMEBODY GONNA GET HURT REAAAAL BAAAD.

[realtambo]

im sorry i understand you are trying to show something but if somone watches the belaying i hope you understand that somone could get hurt please take responseability and remove it. visual aids it should be perfect its not the talking its what your showing.

[prompelpilten]

I'm marking this video as "dangerous activity", and hopefully youtube can do something about this...

[MidgardEagle]

Did the belayer really hold the rope above the whatever-it's-called-in-Englis­h? (ATC?) That's embarrassingly stupid.

[smeghead666]

Expertvillage, Paying amateurs to give bad information and endanger novices

[turbovtec93]

You guys really expected something better from expert village? Don't hold your breath.

[theELCarl]

I was waiting for this guy to say "Dude, your getting a dell"

[allmodcons6]

that belayer is shit

[RyanFrost001]

hey tnx man really helped....busted my knee the other day and it really hurt

[MidgardEagle]

@RyanFrost001 :/ . Expertvillage used to be a source of great information from, as the name would imply, experts. Now it seems anyone can create an account and make a stupid video based on ignorance.

At least their videos can be used by instructors to tell beginners how not to do stuff.

[lentog]

bua que tomate. demostracion de caida con el seguro por encima de la cintura.

[tonys1221]

1 the beylar was in the worng position

2 he was holding the rope worng

3 he should not of gone in the the air as you feel and 4 thanks for trying to kill someone

[ejadoi]

akak ngan bebs tgk kat 0.50 ...care nak tahan..heheheh

[Thecrobeeman]

Don't grab the rope as you fall

[dayumgirlitsemily]

whoa whoa whoa the beylar should be double downing..if the guy is stopped?

[simon2133]

I wonder if he knows its actually pronounced ABSORB

[MarioLoco03]

tiesto commercial? wtf rave music is mainstream now.

[kmfdmwill]

Yes I know people personally who've gotten hurt grabbing the rope. Its tough not to sometimes for some people. I'm lucky in that is not my gut reaction when falling I get ready for the swing in. I feel like the slack would have been correct if the belayer had been standing back a little more though it is a bit generous as to what I porefer. And I have to jump I out weigh my climbing partners by up to 100lbs sometimes and if I don't jump I could break their ankle.

[Jamesotericmoves]

"right as I fall he outs his hand into locking position"- the dead rope should be locked off 99% of the time (even with a grigri), only exception being giving or taking slack! and hands too close to the belay device tutut

copy these guys and you're on borrowed time

[skirace009]

that belaying had a lot of slack on the lead climb

[climbingdudet]

thats probaly the point just before he clips the rope into the next clip :)

[Quimsacharani]

aaand one more time... Don't grab the rope as you fall

[theBatou]

...because, you could loose a hand if it the rope gets wraped around.

[Hasuris]

To the "should I jump"-topic. When there is a lot of rope in the system, there is no need to jump, the rope will absorb the fall. if not (and you're climbing in a gym) you rather want to prevent a grounder, so the shorter the fall the better.

[Hasuris]

there is a good chance to grab a quickdraw or the wrong part of the rope

don't ever grab the rope while falling!

[xsports1]

remember a big part of getting hurt when fallin is getting your leg rapped up. its hard on some routes to keep the rope in a safe place.

[Ouroboros915]

I feel bad for people who don't take these comments seriously enough and trust the video completely.

Guess they'll learn the hard way if they get into it with this video in mind.

[theemurf]

Apart from a real rock climbing club, is there anywhere I can get real info I'm no climber but as soon as I seen that belayer I saw someone with no confidence 2nd guessing himself, and in a position of responsibilty. He just looked unfit for that job. I dont trust this info, but I'd want some internet info to brush up on so I'm not solely learning once a week at a club.

[Ethoxyethane]

Use your legs as springs, then climb with your bones!

[Merumountain]

I've been climbing for 14 years and there are 2 wrong things here...the fall and the belay.

You are not supposed to hold the rope while falling, you can hit your face in a higher, faster fall.

You are not supposed to take the belayer off the ground...that means he was distracted of didn't stop your fall properly...

Expertvillage is an expert editing videos...not climbing.

MERU

[inderida2000]

i agree with not grabbing the rope while falling, but as the belayer, yes if you are a good belayer you do go up in a lead fall to help absorb most of the shock load. the belayer can be anchord in but it does more damage to your gear and makes you take a harder fall by you getting sucked into the wall quickly.

[Merumountain]

There is another technique to stop a fall as a belayer...simply, when the climber is falling, the belayer bends his knees as if he were going to sit and this way, when he is pulled by the climber falling, the belayer won't have to absorb any impact as his own weight is gonna help him do that. I have done this with very big climbers and I have never had a problem, either leading on a real rock outdoors or in a gym. Wanna try?!!

[mofoco1971]

@Merumountain Yes been climbing for over 30 years and i agree 100% anchor your belayer..............

[yourpalcliffy]

@Merumountain

Didnt understand this line.. You are not supposed to take the belayer off the ground... could you rephrase please ive been climbing since few months....

[AMiGR667]

@Merumountain

A sufficiently long fall will take any belayer off the ground, especially if he's light. But you are right, it's unlikely such a fall would occur indoors, in this specific case it's *way* too much slack and an incorrect dynamic belay attempt. Contrary to popular belief, dynamic belaying does *not* involve jumping, it involves a controlled move closer to the wall.

[mh339480]

@Merumountain I agree that expert village sucks, but if you dont take the belayer off the ground how do you propose catching and breaking falls? If the climber is falling and weighs more than the belayer they will always be pulled up. If the climber weighs less than the belayer you jump to soften the fall. I don't agree with not holding the rope either, you can hold the knot and be perfectly fine. That being said, expert village is a terrible place to get even the most basic climbing info.

[cheapheat22]

@mh339480 if the belayer is being pulled off the ground then they weren't anchored properly.

[urmomthebigshark]

@Merumountain Sharma holds the rope...

[Tucson85743]

@Merumountain How would you prevent taking a belayer up into the air? I have taken falls on a single piece of pro and a 105 pound belayer, there is NO way she isn't coming off the ground!  I have caught falls where they have 40 pounds on me and there's no way I'm not coming off the ground.

[rossdabossda2k6]

@Merumountain

The belayer jumping a little bit is a good thing because it reduces the impulse put on your gear. That is why many climbers will have very light belayers (who will jump) when trad climbing on poorly protected routes. You may have been climbing for 14 years but obviously you havent been paying attention.

[AlSwearengen15]

@Merumountain "You are not supposed to take the belayer off the ground...that means he was distracted of didn't stop your fall properly..."

Unless you set a base anchor, the belayer will go flying in a leader fall no matter how distracted you are or not. Especially if they are lighter

[MrDavidAmazing]

@Merumountain The belayer coming of the ground isn't wrong, its called a soft catch and helps lessen the force on the anchors and the climber. Yes its not always advised, especially if the climber can deck, but high up on far falls, it sure is a back saver for the climber

[Runescaper904614]

@Merumountain i agree...expert village is gay

[MaskBox]

@Merumountain nah bro watch the new petzl Gri-gri2 how to guide. on there they also talk about jumping to absorb some of the force so i would have to say that your wrong there although i do agree with your first statement.

[JizzMasterPino]

@Merumountain

Sometimes you have to take the rope though. I once did a single eight knot, so forgot the double one. When I was nearing the top I felt that I was going down a little. Suddenly I fell and I had to take the rope or I would have broken my legs and nose probably. It was both my watcher and my own fault. Could have ended bad :p

[N4ghtmare]

@Merumountain i go to a indoor rock climbing gym but you can hold you hands on the rope

[ArjayBlogs]

@Merumountain The belayer coming off the ground is a correct technique, usually used when the belayer is lighter. Its called a "Dynamic Belay".

[gothicNightwishFan]

that is not how to belay!!!!!!!!

retards!

[icorrespondence]

lol.. you're correct. Dynamic belaying is the proper way to belay. If a belayer can take a step back away from the rock, he shortens the fall quickly. If you're going to jump as a belayer, maybe you're jumping off a ledge because your piece failed and the climber falling farther than expected.

[DeepSouthBuilder]

First thing you did when you fell is grab the rope in front of you. Now some kid is going to do that, grab the rope too high, and get a nasty rope burn when he stops. Not to mention your belayer definitely let go of the rope there for a second. I hate all these jerks that take an hour long course at the gym and think they are qualified to teach this shit. Try climbing something real and you'll begin to get a grasp on the number of variables at play here.

[MrBmaurice]

wow expert village is all over this rock climbing shit. my fave is the anchor one where he raps the webbing around the tree threee times and ties a half hitch. someone needs to delete all these vids beofre someone gets hurt.

[sharkjerky]

right on, as i also stated below. This type of vid should be removed.

[lopside0]

dude is an idiot.

[Tydler1992]

Haha there some messed up rules at this place lol mugofevil is right you dont have your hand facing upwards when belaying lol .. and jumping to absorb the fall lol are you kidding the belayer will most likely cain into the 1st clip lol and potientially letting go of the dead rope lol

[sharkjerky]

Yup, @ approx :52, looks like his brake hand goes from supinated(catching fall) to pronated, i can't see through him, but it sure looks that way, my point? his hand had to leave brake line, even in that split second...well...ya know

[mugofevil]

Belayer has his palm facing up on the right hand, I was always taught thats a no-no, grigri or not

[jokixxx007]

okay this sucks, im climbin like 6 months, and ive never saw someone that jumps up just to abssorbe the fall, lol

[acodega]

You've still got a lot to learn if you've only been climbing six months. Every little thing the belayer can do to help soften a fall is great, especially trad climbing.

[moners06]

Ouaaaaa, 6 months really??? you better pay attention to what he's explaining and stop confusing people.

By the way Ive climbing like 20yrs

[outie131]

the belayer jumps when lead / sport climbing, if your top roping no need for the belayer to jump. Your not falling hard or far with top ropes. with lead / sport your falling the distance to the next pro x 2 + the stretch so what ever the belayer can do to help soften the fall.

coming up on 10 yrs climbing

[DeepSouthBuilder]

Hate to break it to you but that's probably the only thing the belayer did right in this video. In this situation there wasn't a whole lot of rope payed out. This creates a fairly high fall factor. Anything he can do to reduce the fall factor is a good thing. There are MANY situations where that's a good idea.

[kerethan]

"I keep my hands and feet out" as he grabs the fuggin rope.

[kerethan]

He looks like hes about to freak out at any second and go "WOOOOOH HEAD SHOT!"

[xraphael93x]

whats a fake fall \

?

[Munzu]

lol 'exorb' xD

[thetree21220]

lol i love it, "it's natural."

[carlosignacioroche]

even if u have a gri gri or a atc u dont belay with the ropes making less than a 60 degree angle , about the falling technique perfect but the last belay its not the most efecctive /safest way to do it!!

[danielwa2]

what kind of a name is danny logan anyways

[Syst3m04]

I know your using a grigri but it's still good practice to lock off.

[wicksey85]

absorb, not exorb.

[Glonito]

he's danny logan, he doesn't have to say words the right way

[Bradders1984]

Haha, Wicksey you picky bastard.

[5RXP]

Don't get wide wi Danny wee man,your nay fit tae velcro Dans shoes

[prepskate8]

first out of 7,914 views

[prepskate8]

first