Thanks to uploader. I was wondering just why, exactly, my instructor told me in that introductory course to only clip into draws between neck and waist level. Now I know - because otherwise you have too much slack.
That's a part of it, but generally it's better to clip around chest level because it conserves energy -- you don't have drag up as much to rope to reach the clip and you don't have to stretch out your arm above your head for the clip.
That being said, there are certainly times where it is beneficial (if not crucial) to clip well above one's head.
Knowing when and where to clip is one of those skills that comes with experience.
If you are going for a high clip you probably would have already called ROPE and your belayer should know its a cruxy move so they should be extra cautious and ready to take in rope when they are falling. You can't exclusively blame the belayer but I'm sure that I could have done better!
It is so newbee to blame the belayer. When you lead you agree to accept certain risks it is not perfectly safe at all time, even if everyone is doing the right thing. The belayer is suppose to have a fair amount of slack out at all times. I would blame perhaps the climber, for not climbing up closer to the clip so he didn't need to take up so much rope.
he looked like he was trying to make the next clip, which is why he probably had so much slack out....that's why it's important to communicate with your belayer if you don't think you can make it......almost decked it
First off, This is not Boulder Rock Club, Its Solid Rock Gym in San Diego, I worked there for 6 months. Second, who cares whos fault it is, just hope that they learned how to correct it
from watching this video how can you say that there was " good effort from the belayer"? The climber had too much slack when when he botched the clip and fell, it appears that the belayer (during his gym test) didn't take any slack. Most likely the belayer was using a Gri-Gri. What constitutes a good effort, just standing there?
I would say that you are the one being 'pedantic': Here are two of the definitions of your $25.00 word:
1. Being showy of one's knowledge, often in a boring manner.
2. Often used to describe a person who emphasizes his/her knowledge through the use of vocabulary; ostentatious in one's learning. And if you are fine with gym climbing and rock climbing being one and the same than my earlier post certainly would be lost on you.
Poorly chosen title for this video, that is not rock climbing - it's in a gym. How come so many of the videos that show gym climbing have the words 'rock climbing' in the title or description?
2. Climber missed a clip BEFORE he missed the other clip attempt over his head.
3. The REALLY lucky break was that he didn't land on someone else.
4. I hope the guys at Boulder Rock came over and gave him a little chat about not being a total moron...only an idiot gets hurt in a climbing gym...and idiots like this shouldnt' be climbing without supervision.
yeah there wasnt much the belay could have done here...there was a lot of clipping slack out and the climber wasn't that high up off the deck...so...at least he didnt break something...
I'm just gonna throw something out there. Since this was a belay test usually you are required to arrest falls. The lead seemed to let go and the ahhhh was not very convincing in my point of view. Communication between the lead and belay is imperative. The belay has every right to say something. Ah, not a good place to clip maybe?
I think the belay screwed this one up as he's standing there flustered and the lead gives him one hell of a dirty look. The belay should have moved back from the wall as much as possible as soon as noticing the fall, especially on an overhang.
he climber was trying to clip from a bad spot. He pulls up a lot of slack to clip in way over his head and blows the clip. He should have made another move and clipped closer to his waist.
Unless the belayer needs to take up slack to avoid a groundfall (like in the video) it's actually better to stay in closer to the wall, directly under the first bolt. This way you can hop up at the moment of impact and deliver a dynamic belay. If you stand away from the wall you will get pulled into the wall rather than up it, risking a collision and loss of control.
What you risk by standing further from the wall is the zipper effect. There are remedies to this though, such as making suspect placements multidirectional and yes you can stand closer to the wall. Still I wouldn't want that guy belaying me and he won't. By the way, why the name?
Bolts are multi-directional, so the zipper effect isn't a big concern on bolted climbs. If this was a trad climb and the first piece was a nut set for a downward pull, I'd agree with you, but it wasn't.
I still say this was mostly the leader's fault. He requested too much slack and his inexperience put him in a groundfall situation. The bealayer should have communicated this to him, so that is his mistake, but the leader should be aware of the situations he's putting himself in at all times.
Well, I rarely do bolted climbs. Also - lighten up. If you read carefully, which is a critical skill, you'll notice that I agreed with you in the fact that standing closer to the wall/ first bolt/ etc. etc. is is a viable solution. Is this discussion even worth it? No not really. You could put the blame on anyone in this video. Personally, when I belay I see it as my job to take care of the lead. It is someones life in my hands. Do something! They both need lots of practice. Later.
From the time the lead started to fall to the end of the fall is less than one second if you time it. i think the belayer would have been more concerned about locking off than trying to run to take the slack.
eh, just adding may worthless two cents... i agree with 110% on the belayer taking care of the leader. shouldve taken a fall 1-2 feet past a runner to see if his buddy could hold it, no need to take whippers and put the guy off climbing. made for good discussion tho!!
You all suck. The ammount of rope between ones waist and the reach of ones arm is about 4 feet. He came very close to the ground(more than 4 feet x2 from the last draw). Thus bad belayer, dumb gumby, gym rat leader and worst of all dumb ass gym for not teaching and enforcing proper technique.
You're not taking into account the amount of rope from the climber's outstretched arm to his last clip. The rope goes up from his waist to his hand (4ft) then down from his hand to the last clip (another 5-6ft perhaps?); a total of ~10ft of rope out. Add in rope stretch and you've got yourself a decent size fall. It ain't the belayer's fault the leader doesn't know how/when to clip.
Belayer did a good job keeping this kid completely off the deck if you ask me.
That was not the fault of the belayer, the climber was pulling out way too much slack and trying to clip that too early, he should have waited until the clip was at chest hight, there is no way a route-setter would arrange the holds so you had to clip with your arm stretched out above your head like that
Belayer could have taken up at least 3 feet. But this dude needs to learn to clip. And looked like a jug there too he should have been able to hold on to even tho his feet kicked.
I'm the belayer btw. It's a shame that the video is in such poor quality b/c u would have noticed that he not only skipped a clip but he was pulling out rope for the next one. Btw, you fall twice the length from you to your last clip. Also, the belayer's job is to keep the rope as taut as possible (without pulling the climber off the wall) and to lock the rope in the belay device when the climber falls. I did both. Not my fault.
wow sketchy. learn how to clip before you clip all extended like that and he is so lucky he didnt hit the ground. another foot or two and he might have done some damage
a good belayer should be controlling the climber, not just paying out rope endlessly. the climber was clipping to just above his head, the belayer had enough rope out to let him clip three clips up!
it was the climbers fault, because he clipped over his head! thats all. its not the belayers fault when he clippes like a fool, and rope length was just enough that he could clip or do you think he should have refused giving him enough rope?but yes he should have told him that hes doing it wrong...but i dont want to argue and the quality is too bad to estimate the situation without any doubt!
Had something like this a couple of weeks ago- I was climbing, had reigned in way too much rope, suddenly lost my grip and whooooooosh! In situations like that you really find out what the person belaying is made of (my friend proved he could belay quicker then his shadow ;-) )
As much as people are blaming the Belayer look where the noob is cliping from, its a full arms length above your head! You should never pull out that much rope over your head, Clip when the Clip is at your chest or waist to avoide stupid falls like that.
5.9 jug fests r hard.
michaeld916 11 months ago
fagg,,,,,,,
manado2000 1 year ago
idiots
soulmove 1 year ago
idiots
soulmove 1 year ago
that belayer really, really sucks.
josh99usa 1 year ago
That belayer almost cost you an ankle dude. That's how I broke my leg.
revoracer13 1 year ago
wow... extreme excitement!!! WTF, guess you can post anything nowadays!
tinclunge123 2 years ago
DAMN!!!!
domdiljoe 2 years ago
yea better to have fallen above clip than to pull out all that slack and miss a clip. naughty naughty
bxrockstar 2 years ago
should have made the clip dude!!!!!!!!!
bxrockstar 2 years ago
Thanks to uploader. I was wondering just why, exactly, my instructor told me in that introductory course to only clip into draws between neck and waist level. Now I know - because otherwise you have too much slack.
Learning from others' mistakes can be fun :P .
MidgardEagle 2 years ago
That's a part of it, but generally it's better to clip around chest level because it conserves energy -- you don't have drag up as much to rope to reach the clip and you don't have to stretch out your arm above your head for the clip.
That being said, there are certainly times where it is beneficial (if not crucial) to clip well above one's head.
Knowing when and where to clip is one of those skills that comes with experience.
CapnBad 2 years ago 6
that belayer sucked
kumquatsta 2 years ago
If you are going for a high clip you probably would have already called ROPE and your belayer should know its a cruxy move so they should be extra cautious and ready to take in rope when they are falling. You can't exclusively blame the belayer but I'm sure that I could have done better!
esspro 2 years ago
@esspro you say rope when you drop the rope the ground. for instance when droping a rope to repel. anyway it didnt even look like a real fall
it looked intentional for w,e reason
hatedrivesus 1 year ago
He was stretching too far to clip. Get closer, more scary but easier.
wesleywt 2 years ago 2
Belay fail.
Rapidpanda1st 2 years ago
hey who is that and was that taken at the nashville climbing center
mrcombs777 3 years ago
climbing scan so rough comenters..so baah you gays
watohi 3 years ago
this dumbass is lucky to be alive
MaNarchicDRAKE 3 years ago
Lol, I love the scout
"Bahhh!!"
KamiKaziChicken 3 years ago 2
I agree thats just a part of climbing.
mnutt12 3 years ago
Yeah, its pretty rediculous to allways blame the belayer. Don´t you realize how much extra slack he´s got when he stretching for the clip??
grimlund 3 years ago 3
It is so newbee to blame the belayer. When you lead you agree to accept certain risks it is not perfectly safe at all time, even if everyone is doing the right thing. The belayer is suppose to have a fair amount of slack out at all times. I would blame perhaps the climber, for not climbing up closer to the clip so he didn't need to take up so much rope.
nameofuser111 3 years ago
The tags
"Rock climbing fall stupid" says it all.
fleapit123 3 years ago
he looked like he was trying to make the next clip, which is why he probably had so much slack out....that's why it's important to communicate with your belayer if you don't think you can make it......almost decked it
irock1839 3 years ago
First off, This is not Boulder Rock Club, Its Solid Rock Gym in San Diego, I worked there for 6 months. Second, who cares whos fault it is, just hope that they learned how to correct it
IDB165234 3 years ago
That guy almost decked out. He should either hug his belayer or kick him in the balls.
rangerdanger222 3 years ago
uis!!!
mosca001 3 years ago
akože načo si natahal tolko lana ked aj tak nedočiahol k expresu ...nejaký trol :D::D Funny accident:D:D:D
pipooooo10 3 years ago
Jesus, I sure hope that guy never belays me....
MixmasterM10 3 years ago
that was close, damn close
tampik007 3 years ago
Lush, thats like what, 5 inches on a dead rope from decking, if that was my belayer I'd be pissed.
pipsicles 3 years ago 2
Someone NEEDS a belay lesson BIG time. Even first time climbers I have taken out belay better than this.
r1skate 3 years ago
DAMN RIGHT!!!!
ATJSTeam 3 years ago
from watching this video how can you say that there was " good effort from the belayer"? The climber had too much slack when when he botched the clip and fell, it appears that the belayer (during his gym test) didn't take any slack. Most likely the belayer was using a Gri-Gri. What constitutes a good effort, just standing there?
gbbsnow 3 years ago 3
I would say that you are the one being 'pedantic': Here are two of the definitions of your $25.00 word:
1. Being showy of one's knowledge, often in a boring manner.
2. Often used to describe a person who emphasizes his/her knowledge through the use of vocabulary; ostentatious in one's learning. And if you are fine with gym climbing and rock climbing being one and the same than my earlier post certainly would be lost on you.
Gfrancek 3 years ago
Poorly chosen title for this video, that is not rock climbing - it's in a gym. How come so many of the videos that show gym climbing have the words 'rock climbing' in the title or description?
Gfrancek 3 years ago
Don't be so pedantic.
P.S. A good effort from the belayer.
fmead99 3 years ago
funy,but bad fal lol.
dont hit the floor!
killerdreak 3 years ago
belayer must be a fatass to not get yanked way up. my belayer and i were both at the first clip when i jumped off a 20m (skipped one before the top)
falorethegreat 3 years ago
1. Belayer did just fine.
2. Climber missed a clip BEFORE he missed the other clip attempt over his head.
3. The REALLY lucky break was that he didn't land on someone else.
4. I hope the guys at Boulder Rock came over and gave him a little chat about not being a total moron...only an idiot gets hurt in a climbing gym...and idiots like this shouldnt' be climbing without supervision.
punchpixie 3 years ago 11
boulder rock club???
MOEELOVESKIEFER 3 years ago
yeah there wasnt much the belay could have done here...there was a lot of clipping slack out and the climber wasn't that high up off the deck...so...at least he didnt break something...
dbarless 3 years ago
hehe a guy goes in the backround "ah!" :)
cuteshoes77 3 years ago
lucky didn't hit the floor!!!!
vincentvegas99 3 years ago
he did
campusmang 3 years ago
i meant badly
vincentvegas99 3 years ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
then please use the correct term and say crater
campusmang 3 years ago
haha, crater. At the New we call it "taking the big ride"
GaiaMind 3 years ago
I'm just gonna throw something out there. Since this was a belay test usually you are required to arrest falls. The lead seemed to let go and the ahhhh was not very convincing in my point of view. Communication between the lead and belay is imperative. The belay has every right to say something. Ah, not a good place to clip maybe?
alpsalish 4 years ago
I think the belay screwed this one up as he's standing there flustered and the lead gives him one hell of a dirty look. The belay should have moved back from the wall as much as possible as soon as noticing the fall, especially on an overhang.
alpsalish 4 years ago
he climber was trying to clip from a bad spot. He pulls up a lot of slack to clip in way over his head and blows the clip. He should have made another move and clipped closer to his waist.
drfelatio 4 years ago
alpsalish:
Unless the belayer needs to take up slack to avoid a groundfall (like in the video) it's actually better to stay in closer to the wall, directly under the first bolt. This way you can hop up at the moment of impact and deliver a dynamic belay. If you stand away from the wall you will get pulled into the wall rather than up it, risking a collision and loss of control.
drfelatio 4 years ago
What you risk by standing further from the wall is the zipper effect. There are remedies to this though, such as making suspect placements multidirectional and yes you can stand closer to the wall. Still I wouldn't want that guy belaying me and he won't. By the way, why the name?
alpsalish 4 years ago
Bolts are multi-directional, so the zipper effect isn't a big concern on bolted climbs. If this was a trad climb and the first piece was a nut set for a downward pull, I'd agree with you, but it wasn't.
I still say this was mostly the leader's fault. He requested too much slack and his inexperience put him in a groundfall situation. The bealayer should have communicated this to him, so that is his mistake, but the leader should be aware of the situations he's putting himself in at all times.
drfelatio 4 years ago
Well, I rarely do bolted climbs. Also - lighten up. If you read carefully, which is a critical skill, you'll notice that I agreed with you in the fact that standing closer to the wall/ first bolt/ etc. etc. is is a viable solution. Is this discussion even worth it? No not really. You could put the blame on anyone in this video. Personally, when I belay I see it as my job to take care of the lead. It is someones life in my hands. Do something! They both need lots of practice. Later.
alpsalish 4 years ago
From the time the lead started to fall to the end of the fall is less than one second if you time it. i think the belayer would have been more concerned about locking off than trying to run to take the slack.
killar770 3 years ago
A little late no.
alpsalish 3 years ago
eh, just adding may worthless two cents... i agree with 110% on the belayer taking care of the leader. shouldve taken a fall 1-2 feet past a runner to see if his buddy could hold it, no need to take whippers and put the guy off climbing. made for good discussion tho!!
killar770 3 years ago
Indeed, thanks for the input.
alpsalish 3 years ago
Excuse me, I used the term "climber" when "bona fide hack" is far more appropriate.
eastvailchutes 4 years ago
How stupid. This climber needs some instruction before he hurts himself, or much worse, someone else.
eastvailchutes 4 years ago
You all suck. The ammount of rope between ones waist and the reach of ones arm is about 4 feet. He came very close to the ground(more than 4 feet x2 from the last draw). Thus bad belayer, dumb gumby, gym rat leader and worst of all dumb ass gym for not teaching and enforcing proper technique.
ilustr8r 4 years ago 2
You're not taking into account the amount of rope from the climber's outstretched arm to his last clip. The rope goes up from his waist to his hand (4ft) then down from his hand to the last clip (another 5-6ft perhaps?); a total of ~10ft of rope out. Add in rope stretch and you've got yourself a decent size fall. It ain't the belayer's fault the leader doesn't know how/when to clip.
Belayer did a good job keeping this kid completely off the deck if you ask me.
drfelatio 4 years ago
My last comment was directed at ilustr8r, btw.
drfelatio 4 years ago
uff... u should be more conscious on what are u doing next time. you were close to get a broken ankle.
cya
markco87 4 years ago
That was not the fault of the belayer, the climber was pulling out way too much slack and trying to clip that too early, he should have waited until the clip was at chest hight, there is no way a route-setter would arrange the holds so you had to clip with your arm stretched out above your head like that
jjb2004mk2 4 years ago
Belayer could have taken up at least 3 feet. But this dude needs to learn to clip. And looked like a jug there too he should have been able to hold on to even tho his feet kicked.
scottsolinko 4 years ago
I'm the belayer btw. It's a shame that the video is in such poor quality b/c u would have noticed that he not only skipped a clip but he was pulling out rope for the next one. Btw, you fall twice the length from you to your last clip. Also, the belayer's job is to keep the rope as taut as possible (without pulling the climber off the wall) and to lock the rope in the belay device when the climber falls. I did both. Not my fault.
retguy64 4 years ago
righty right...it definitly wasnt ur fault, even though you know that yourself...
alfonsx43x 4 years ago
it wasnt the belayer´s fault,when u fall,u fall twice as much rope as u have.
Poltasius 4 years ago
AHHHHHHHHH
Intendopro 4 years ago
good belay there, sometimes it takes more than just braking the rope on your belay device.
xkfalling 4 years ago
OOOPS!!!!!
jumpingbiker 4 years ago
dumbass!
sandstone1 4 years ago
wow sketchy. learn how to clip before you clip all extended like that and he is so lucky he didnt hit the ground. another foot or two and he might have done some damage
wickeddsick 4 years ago
bad belaying.
Soymilllk 4 years ago
you dont know much about climbing, dont you?
alfonsx43x 4 years ago
a good belayer should be controlling the climber, not just paying out rope endlessly. the climber was clipping to just above his head, the belayer had enough rope out to let him clip three clips up!
Soymilllk 4 years ago
it was the climbers fault, because he clipped over his head! thats all. its not the belayers fault when he clippes like a fool, and rope length was just enough that he could clip or do you think he should have refused giving him enough rope?but yes he should have told him that hes doing it wrong...but i dont want to argue and the quality is too bad to estimate the situation without any doubt!
alfonsx43x 4 years ago
ive seen worse but thats a nice one. lol
Rmoose67 4 years ago
the belayer looks like a 12 year old kid
cossie57 4 years ago
that belayer sucked balls.
fivetenmontrail 4 years ago
Well, it went allright :-)
Had something like this a couple of weeks ago- I was climbing, had reigned in way too much rope, suddenly lost my grip and whooooooosh! In situations like that you really find out what the person belaying is made of (my friend proved he could belay quicker then his shadow ;-) )
yaerav 4 years ago
not the belayers fault...he was trying to clip far far too high up.
Johnny010 4 years ago
too much rope above the noob...huge mistake!!!
amayalluqu616 4 years ago
haha, yeh lol, and wtf was the belayer doing rofl
CDPuffer 4 years ago
As much as people are blaming the Belayer look where the noob is cliping from, its a full arms length above your head! You should never pull out that much rope over your head, Clip when the Clip is at your chest or waist to avoide stupid falls like that.
CDPuffer 4 years ago
noob
projectmap 4 years ago
AHHH WOHHHH..... nice one..... i hope you never belay me!
smellyegghead 4 years ago
Thats the Boulder rock club for you,people more interested in impressing each other than anything else!
pwdrjnky11 4 years ago
Holy sh@t! Dood was your belayer like, not locking off the rope the whole time or wat. I mean sh@t.
BnkrMnky 4 years ago
you lucky bastard! i wud never let a newbie belay me.
teahupo26 4 years ago
Damm, thats a close call, hope u changed your pants!
papasmurfuk76 4 years ago
Hope u got a new rope too....
woods767 4 years ago
seriously you shoulda hit the ground.. learn a lesson
huyiy 5 years ago
Why would not pay attention to all that and have a someone belay you that has no experience? Get some brains
swylie100 5 years ago
Dude you almost decked! From one climber to another watch out for that shit.
StoneHand06 5 years ago
i know
emodykedude123 5 years ago