These are great tips. I usually do most of these mods to my cabinets, but I hadn't heard of putting the screw in the center of the center post...really makes a lot of sense! Thanks for sharing, Bob.
I was with you until you went and soldered the speakers in. To me it just seems unnecessary and could easily be substituted with dielectric grease, They you'd still get the continuity without the hassle.
It looks very good to me. Dude can I ask a question, is there any way I can connect a marshall 1912 cab to a stereo Line 6 Spider IV 150 head. Line 6 say both 75W outputs need to be connected to 8ohm loads. Is there any way I can modify the Marshall to make it work with the Spider IV head? Thanks
Thanks for the very helpful video. Although I did not solder anything yet (no soldering tools), I did discover a few loose speaker connections that I tightened up along with all screws. I just took for granted everything would be tight in the cab. I also caulked the inside. Thanks again.
Excellent video and quite helpful. The only concern is instead of going through the resoldering process of the circuit board perhaps the labor involved might be better directed to retrofit (2) panel mount NL-2 Speakon jacks (in parallel). The contact resistance is far lower then any 1/4" jack and combined with their "lock in place-quick disconnect" design makes them an ideal jack both electrically and physically
I agree with the screws being loose but the caulking is a waste of time and makes a mess. We are talking about a Guitar cab...not a Bass cab. Also to center the screw in the post .. remove a handle so you can see inside the cab and what you are doing.
Question for Marshall cab users. I currently have casters on my cabinet. Do you all prefer the cab on casters or do you prefer to have you cabinet sitting directly on the ground for bass response?
@andy92811 Dude, personally, I prefer removing te casters and letting the cab vibrat naturally. Also, I have two small kids and it's much more stable when it rests naturally and without the casters.
@crosseyedwillie Definitely agree and a point I raised in one of my previous posts on this vid. I definitely recommend you use heavier gauge wire. You'll definitely notice the difference. Just be sure to draw the old set so when you cahnge wires, you connect everything where it should be.
@5150VanAlien On long cable runs the thicker gauge is always better however in a speaker cab you're going from jack to wire to speaker, since the speakers voice coil wire is thin as a human hair even the stock wire Marshall uses in their newer cabs is far thicker then the speakers voice coil wire -due to this and the shortness of the jack to speaker wire length, heavier wire from the jack to the speaker basically becomes negligible, however we still re-wired our cabs with new 14 gauge zip cord
@MightySaturn5 I appreciate there are several factors contributing to the tone enhancement of cabs & most of which are recommended in Bob's video. Though I don't agree with wetting the cab and to collect excess debris can be done with a vacuum. However, having said that, several premium brands utilise heavy gauge wiring in their cabs as you've identified with your own. Therefore, even a negligible difference to the common ear will be more noticeable to one that’s musically gifted. Thanks.
@5150VanAlien I fully agree, anything that is helpful towards tone, construction or electrical path, no matter how small is the way to go...have a great day and take care.
hey you guys,! i just want you to know this,. solder is really spell as SOLDER but it is read as SODDER, silent L, i have read so many books that says it is read as sodder..
Yes, we colonials took your language an actually made it audible. The only time we pronounce the word HERB like you do is when we're referring to a guy named HERB. The stuff that grows from the soil is pronounced without the H sound.
To quote a line from the movie SNATCH," You guys spawned the fucking language yet no one here (In England) can speak it"!
My cab had the screws OK, I didn't get half a turn (and I'm not exactly weak in the arms). So I think Marshall saw this video and rethought their cabmaking strategy :D
Why don't you clean it out with an air compressor rather than a GARDEN HOSE? lol But otherwise great tips :) Caulking the seems is probably the best idea ive heard yet. Thank you very much :)
Just out of curiousity, what do you believe are the main differences in sound between 75wt speakers to 50wt speakers to 25wt speakers in 4 x 12 speaker configurations (assuming that these different combinations were compared within the same cabinet)?
FIRST AND FOREMOST tighten the screws and nuts. This includes marshall heads as well. All the srews are LOOSE on marshalls and shit rattles. the bolts holding down the transformers were not even close to being tight-this is unreal coming from marshall- where is the quality control? I was thinking mine was a one time thing- but I went over the amp + cab first thing out of the box, this was back in 96.
Just wanted to add re: speaker wiring, as Marshall mass produce, they use the cheapest speaker wiring possible as opposed to brands like ENGL, Bogner et. al.
I prefer the 4x12 A with no wheels on the 4x12 B with wheels (aesthetically and pragmatically speaking) as for sound, everything will sound with more bottom end on the floor with no wheels. Cheers.
RE: the center post, you can place a dot of paint on the center of the post, put the back on making sure to press on the center of the back to transfer the paint to the back board. then you can use a 1/16 drill bit to drill from the center of the paint that is now on the back of your back board & bingo, no guess work, you're dead center into that post when you put it all back together.
You can also rebuild that post if it's cheaply made (MDF), cracked, etc... for little to no cost.
Im making my own 2x12 and was wondering where the end of the beam goes, the small hole he shows, does that go to a screw in the center of the back cover?
yes...just line it up the best ya can it will be fine...I made a 2x12 out of a SUN 18 Bass cab and put a divider in between them the kinda stop any interaction with each other and it sounds KILLER...good luck with project
Bob I agree with you on the hard soldering of the speakers, thats all I do in my cabinets but everything else is HIGHLY subjective especially the caulk around the handles. Basically Marshall cabs are built like crap theres no two ways around it. Screwed in baffles are garbage.
here's what you do, TTimmyPokemonDude, just set the head on top of the cab and point your guitar at the speaker you want the sound to come through. when you point it in a circle, you get a really cool rotating speaker effect. try it out.
MegaMave, you're a dick, why couldn't you just tell him how to do it. i bet there was a time you didn't know this either.
@TTimmyPokemonDude On the head,there are 2 plug-in things,you plug the speaker cable in one of them,and on the back of the cab,there is also a plug-in unit,so you plug the other end of the speaker cable into that.
@TTimmyPokemonDude use a 1/4" cable (unshielded) and connect it form either input on the head to either input on the cab, and adjust the ohms from there.
There is a speaker output on the back of the head and an input jack on the cab, its idiot proof.. although you want to make sure you use a speaker cable and not an instrument cable..
Do you agree with most people (atleast that I've talked to) about the straight cabs sounding better than the slants? I own a 1960a loaded w/ celestion g12-65s that sounds killer, but I'm wondering if I should swap them into a straight cab. If anyone out there has a empty 1960b they are looking to sell, please let me know. I'm in the Boston area.
RE: soldering... while not 100% necessary, if left as is from factory, the clips will eventually loosen over time & will eventually need to be replaced. If you decide to go the solder route, be sure to use a lead free silver solder for the best possible connection. There is an alternative, Hot Melt Glue, simply use a hot melt glue gun & completely cover the clips on both sides, & it's easily removable if you ever blow a speaker, just apply some heat till the glue softens & pull the clips off.
Forgot to add, you don't have to solder all the internal wiring when you consider how many bands tour the world with Marshall cabs and they throw their cabs all over the place and the sound still comes clear out of each speaker.
Im looking for a cabinet, can't decide between the Marshall 1960AV or a Mesa Boogie Standard. I want something with a lot of low end and nice mids and highs. Any suggestions?
get a cab with g12k-100 speakers. Most bottom end. The 1960 cab has V 30s, nasty highs and not much bass. Get the g12k-100s for a better sound with tons of bass.
Depends what your budget is as the Mesa will cost way much more and if budget is an issue go for the Marshall. The Vintage speakers in the Marshall ARE NOT Celestion V30's as the Marshall speakers are 70 watts each and they are not advertised as G12H (denotes heavy ceramic magnet) instead as G12.
This guys seems to be offering tips and things that are either permanent or a pain in the ass to reverse if you ever need to change speakers/grill cloth/jacks/whatever. Good tips, but not if you plan on making changes later
Why? It might be pronounced 'sodder' in AMERICA, But that doesnt mean it is correct.
Sorry but Brits say soLder, so they can't be wrong CAN they, considering it IS THEIR language!
We Aussies say soLder, Kiwis say soLder, just about every other does along with Canadians, So my guess is its another american minority pronunciation/and/or spelling!
The brits also say al-u-min-yum instead aluminum... I personally pronounce it Sauter (saw-ter) but I'm from East Tennessee and we're "Ignorant hicks"... Just kidding and having a little fun!
We do pronounce it sodder, (don't know why) however, it is most certainly spelled solder.
By the way, the brits CAN be wrong. By your logic, they should all still be speaking Germanic and Norman. Language does evolve and change over time. American English has a lot of Spanish (and other stuff) in it. : ]
Oh, and stop trying to insult us for our nationalistic pride, you prideful nationalist.
Canadians say "sodder". I have never heard ANYONE pronounce the L in solder. So does Webster's dictionary. This is a do it yourself tip that is cheap and cool. It demystifies the cabinet for those who dont know, and even if you only open it, clean it, and properly tighten your speakers, this is money. Thanks Mr Molton.
@Glockenator ....but....The hardware store guys ALL say sodder, my plumber sez sodder. All of them....Canadian ! The people you know are probably not 100% Canuck, maybe theyre aliens . Maybe they lied to you. There must be an explanation !! All my handyman friends- SODDER !! This is evidence I can support my claim with. For the love of God , it is sodder !!!
Even if Marshall cabs are cheaper, customers shouldn't have to go through all this work just to make them "normal again". Seems like Marshall send their cabs out with lesser quality and customer have to bring them up to scratch again.
I don't know if you have but you should have a part two to this finish the cabinet for those who don't know the importance of speaker phasing and wiring for series/parallel. You did a great job on improving speaker cabinet performance which can also be used with other makes. Please complete the run.
Im glad to see some validity in the things I have been doing for years. The first thing I do when I get a new cab is take it apart and do all of these things! My Mesa cab included! Great vid!
God Marshall cabs are over rated crap. Plastic handles that rattle, plastic corner protectors (look at just about any old Marshall cab, the plastic crap is broken) Particle board back plates, (sometimes particle all over), want a good cab for less money? Carvin's got some great cabs with a lot better construction.
great advice and thanks....the only thing I'd add is that if you're going as far as soldering the speaker terminals you might as well convert those crappy 1/4" jacks to simple Speakon locking conectors...better connectivity plus they lock and of course un-lock quite easily.
Years ago we added 5 way binding posts to our guitarists 1960A cabs for better current transfer and have recently added a pair of Speakons to each cab for their desirable locking characteristics
great advice BOB but but the garden hose lol .;.; i would suggest some compressed air an a damp rag or a rag dampened with alcohall for cleaning .. water an flake board is not a good idea;.;.;.
actually i used some lysol on a rag and rubbed the tolex down, made it allll shiny and new lookin. Speakers arent the only thing that changes sound. having a solid box will def resonate more and have better punch, then having your shit loose as a goose. YouSpam Tard, your a tard.
1. cleaning. Doesn't do anything to your sound. Maybe better for the speakers.
2. sealing. Gives more punch
3. Center wood post. I changed it for a large wooden block. The cabinet will react stiffer. More direct. If you remove it, the backplate will react in a similar way as a base drum.
4. Also I removed the original backplate of the Marshall and replaced it for a quality multiplex plate. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!
this is going to make a huge difference! an air-tight cabinet works far more efficiently than one with leaks... this is rule number one in speaker building. do some research man before you make comments like that!
I understand in principle what you mean, but in reality the tweaks on this vid are not improving fundamentally what design and construction choices there are already in a cab. Speaker change? fine, but If anyone hears a difference its like "who smelt the mouse fart at 3am"
well really any guitar brand cab is a poor choice. none are made to speaker specs with maybe the mesa thiele as an exception. anywho enough flammin for now
wow this really works my cab sounds a lot better in every way very pounchy notes are clear and tight, create so much pressure on the inside of the cab that my speaker cable was push out after 10 min of playing lol but it was an easy fix i just bend the tip of the jack on the inside of the cab overall great mod recomended...
This all sounds good,but I assume you would only recognize the tone difference at realy high D.B. levels..I do have one Marshall cab and I intend on making these mods today.Ill try anything for tone,lol..at least this is free..
Great video! I just bought a POS marshall 4x12 for $100. It sounded, eh... average, but after watching this vid and performing these simple fixes, I now have an amazing sounding 4x12 cab. The difference was mind-boggling. Thanks for your info.
hi.i've got a cab with some foam or cloth inside from the factory[fuchs]around the box.what do you think it does to the sound.should i remove it.i know bogner also uses it.your comments.
Instead of going through all of this to get great tone, why dont you just buy a Mills Acoustics cab that is already in top shape with higher quality, than something that you have to drop the cash on, take it home, and tweek it for a few days until it sounds ok, you can buy a cab that would whip a tweeked marshal right out of the box
This video follows what I have done for years however I would add a few comments:
I replace the 2x2 center post with a 2x4.I seal everything to eliminate resonance. If you want a ported cabinet, make a ported cabinet. When tightening the baffle screws, I back each one out first and put a tiny amount of silicone on the end of screws. When re-soldering the circuit board, be careful not to overheat joints.Replace seals on the speakers with new poly seals. Put a dab of silicone on the screw ends.
The post also prevents the back from becoming a resonator. The piece of wood is big enough that it can act like a bass drum head but it would cause certain frequencies to really boom out so the post acts like a dampener to prevent that from happening.
Buy a mesa boogie cabinet and you wont have to worry about shoty craftsmanship. I opened up my mesa boogie traditional 4x12 after watching this video to check these issues and it has NONE of these problems. THANKS MESA!!
I opened my Mesa 2x12 rac cab to replace one of the speakers that was blown. It was very clean and built like a tank. I had trouble taking the back penal off of it.
Thanks so much for the tip...one question though what kind of calk should I use? Laytex? Sillicon? I am sure when I get to the store there will be 5 different kinds to choose from...thanks in advance
holy shit!!!! when i was unscrewing my cabinet the stupid fucks glued part of the back on and i broke it off. but on the bright side all i did was tighten up all the screws and vacuumed all the dirt out and the difference in tone is like night and day. the overdrive channel on my amp is so much more clear. me and the other gutiarist in our band both did this and our amps sound orgasmic now.
If your going to do this sort of maintenance then I suggest a few other things:
* replace the speaker 'wire' with proper monster cable speaker cable - 16g is $2/ft OR get the best you can afford (this goes for up to $50/ft or more!)
* Get rid of the jack switcher altogether - hardwire it for the mode you need (stereo or mono) - that PCB is a weak link
I worked in audio for years and years... the funny thing is that I never applied that to a marshall cab-thought original was how pros did it
Yeah going, we did that with our guitarists 1960A years ago.
We left the back panel/jack plate on for asthetics but disconnected it from the speakers...all the old thin gauge wiring was replaced with 14 gauge high strand zip cord (soldered to each speaker terminal), this stuff is all over the place on used vacumes, irons, microwaves etc (any high wattage items) -for around $10 you could even buy a small spool at Radio Shack, Walmarts, Home Depot, etc.
...anyway after we rewired(4 ohms only)we added and connected all new wiring to a 5-way binding post'plate'(since been upgraded to 'Speakon') -all 1/4" jacks/plugs are known to have questionable contact area which means potentially less power to your cab and since our guitarist achieves his exact tone through his preamps send/return(Metal zone pedal) and uses a 250 watt per channel musically 'neutral'power amp you can't really use 1/4" jacks anyway.
the whole cab is loud enough for the stage, i think. (when i turn the knob in the 2nd lead channel to 3, my whole room is starting to vibrate :D )
but i guess it would be better if you would buy the cabinet with celestion vintage 30's - on the laney homepage they say that it has the optimal range for the GH50 & 100 heads, but i don't know (never tried it before)
All I can say is, if you're the adventerous type, then by all means go for it! I am that kinda person. For example, that's why I always fix guitars. The first few times, I messed up pretty bad because I didn't know anything about them. LOL But when you do things like this, you teach yourself at the same time. Maybe after a while of you messing with amps, you'd be one of the best! LOL I think it'll work with any other cabs, just use at this video as guidelines, instead of directions. My opinion.
hey bob i have a marshall mg30dfx little thing right now im getting a cabinet and head soon but for my 30dfx is there anything i ccan do to enhance the tone of that (ive been playing for 3 years)
Is the DFX closed on the back? if not, CLOSE IT. I closed my Solid State Kustom Arrow amp, and the tone got so much richer and warmer. But make sure that you tighten good and Seal overall.
If you really dig that amp, you might get a new speaker. I'd go fore either Fane or Celestion. But they are kinda expensive.
You could potencially do anything in this vid to any cab/amp.
Thxs man!! But about speakers??? Reissues greenbacks? I have Gt75s and I dont like!! Suggestions?? thanks for the video Bob always awesome and helpful!!
dont know if i might try this
but one thing i am wondering though
since you said that by doing all of this, youre gonna get a different sound out of the cab
can you do a side by side comparison of a cab that hasnt been touched to the cab that you cleaned up in this video?
CodyHarris0069 1 year ago
These are great tips. I usually do most of these mods to my cabinets, but I hadn't heard of putting the screw in the center of the center post...really makes a lot of sense! Thanks for sharing, Bob.
pacificresonance 1 year ago
NOBODY SAYS "S O L D H E R" its called "sod her"say it sod her
do you pronounce chalk "CH ALL K" with emphasis on the all?
,fuck no! or do you say ch au k,hell yes!!!! chauk
here's a typical dumbass Yankee comment:
yall,live in them there igloo's down in canada ,ehhh? we dont live in igloo's,or all speak french,noone eats backbacon ,
so fuck right off.Canada already kicked the united states ass,
but i bet they don't mention that in your b.s us history books.
utooberblooper 1 year ago
I was with you until you went and soldered the speakers in. To me it just seems unnecessary and could easily be substituted with dielectric grease, They you'd still get the continuity without the hassle.
Daedolon 1 year ago
Wtf is "sodder", lol!
gwilym94 1 year ago
@gwilym94
That's how we Americans and Canadians say Solder.
Daedolon 1 year ago
or you can buy mesa stiletto cabinets because they're built better and sound better !
snapascrew 1 year ago
It looks very good to me. Dude can I ask a question, is there any way I can connect a marshall 1912 cab to a stereo Line 6 Spider IV 150 head. Line 6 say both 75W outputs need to be connected to 8ohm loads. Is there any way I can modify the Marshall to make it work with the Spider IV head? Thanks
Hertsman50 1 year ago
Thanks for the very helpful video. Although I did not solder anything yet (no soldering tools), I did discover a few loose speaker connections that I tightened up along with all screws. I just took for granted everything would be tight in the cab. I also caulked the inside. Thanks again.
ffemt596 1 year ago
Excellent video and quite helpful. The only concern is instead of going through the resoldering process of the circuit board perhaps the labor involved might be better directed to retrofit (2) panel mount NL-2 Speakon jacks (in parallel). The contact resistance is far lower then any 1/4" jack and combined with their "lock in place-quick disconnect" design makes them an ideal jack both electrically and physically
MightySaturn5 1 year ago
I agree with the screws being loose but the caulking is a waste of time and makes a mess. We are talking about a Guitar cab...not a Bass cab. Also to center the screw in the post .. remove a handle so you can see inside the cab and what you are doing.
69superlead 1 year ago
Question for Marshall cab users. I currently have casters on my cabinet. Do you all prefer the cab on casters or do you prefer to have you cabinet sitting directly on the ground for bass response?
andy92811 1 year ago
@andy92811 Dude, personally, I prefer removing te casters and letting the cab vibrat naturally. Also, I have two small kids and it's much more stable when it rests naturally and without the casters.
5150VanAlien 1 year ago
remember to clean that curcit board before soldering same with an old amp when resoldering powerboards.
korzon 1 year ago
do you use thicker wire then the standard OEM wire for the inside of the cabinet?
crosseyedwillie 1 year ago
@crosseyedwillie Definitely agree and a point I raised in one of my previous posts on this vid. I definitely recommend you use heavier gauge wire. You'll definitely notice the difference. Just be sure to draw the old set so when you cahnge wires, you connect everything where it should be.
5150VanAlien 1 year ago
@5150VanAlien On long cable runs the thicker gauge is always better however in a speaker cab you're going from jack to wire to speaker, since the speakers voice coil wire is thin as a human hair even the stock wire Marshall uses in their newer cabs is far thicker then the speakers voice coil wire -due to this and the shortness of the jack to speaker wire length, heavier wire from the jack to the speaker basically becomes negligible, however we still re-wired our cabs with new 14 gauge zip cord
MightySaturn5 1 year ago
@MightySaturn5 I appreciate there are several factors contributing to the tone enhancement of cabs & most of which are recommended in Bob's video. Though I don't agree with wetting the cab and to collect excess debris can be done with a vacuum. However, having said that, several premium brands utilise heavy gauge wiring in their cabs as you've identified with your own. Therefore, even a negligible difference to the common ear will be more noticeable to one that’s musically gifted. Thanks.
5150VanAlien 1 year ago
@5150VanAlien I fully agree, anything that is helpful towards tone, construction or electrical path, no matter how small is the way to go...have a great day and take care.
MightySaturn5 1 year ago
hey you guys,! i just want you to know this,. solder is really spell as SOLDER but it is read as SODDER, silent L, i have read so many books that says it is read as sodder..
rajbebe 1 year ago
thanks this is really good. I never thought marshalls would have these problems.
Good video. 10/10
lostlemming 1 year ago
sodder? yes , you colonials have really butchered the English language, haven't you? You miss the H in HERBS too.....
GraemeSPa 1 year ago
@GraemeSPa
Yes, we colonials took your language an actually made it audible. The only time we pronounce the word HERB like you do is when we're referring to a guy named HERB. The stuff that grows from the soil is pronounced without the H sound.
To quote a line from the movie SNATCH," You guys spawned the fucking language yet no one here (In England) can speak it"!
darthinfurnus 1 year ago
Just common sense stuff...
ricaard 1 year ago
My cab had the screws OK, I didn't get half a turn (and I'm not exactly weak in the arms). So I think Marshall saw this video and rethought their cabmaking strategy :D
BTW, great mod!
BOKATEUKOKA 1 year ago
How about not buying junk Marshall crap!
Jarrettguitar 1 year ago
Why don't you clean it out with an air compressor rather than a GARDEN HOSE? lol But otherwise great tips :) Caulking the seems is probably the best idea ive heard yet. Thank you very much :)
johnnysitarphillips 1 year ago
so bob. what you mean to say in this vid. anything that is able to move. tighten it, plug it seal it solder it.!
MrGrumpyGinger 1 year ago
Funny! LOL
Velmapod 2 years ago
Just out of curiousity, what do you believe are the main differences in sound between 75wt speakers to 50wt speakers to 25wt speakers in 4 x 12 speaker configurations (assuming that these different combinations were compared within the same cabinet)?
5150RDH 2 years ago
FIRST AND FOREMOST tighten the screws and nuts. This includes marshall heads as well. All the srews are LOOSE on marshalls and shit rattles. the bolts holding down the transformers were not even close to being tight-this is unreal coming from marshall- where is the quality control? I was thinking mine was a one time thing- but I went over the amp + cab first thing out of the box, this was back in 96.
opjkdg 2 years ago
Just wanted to add re: speaker wiring, as Marshall mass produce, they use the cheapest speaker wiring possible as opposed to brands like ENGL, Bogner et. al.
5150VanAlien 2 years ago
awesome advice!
tomeklawreszuk 2 years ago
When you solder the wires to the speaker would you put some shrink tube around the joint? Just to prevent build up and corrosion?
4JayeP 2 years ago
What do you guys think about having wheels on a cab? Do you think it is better to have full contact to the floor with no wheels?
bsamusgrave 2 years ago
@bsamusgrave ..placing the cabinet directly onto the floor will cause a slight increase in db level and bottom end.
Concerning the video, not bad but the guy can get a tad anal at times. For example, the center post running front to back....wayyy to longggg! lol
By the time it was over I knew enough about that post to host a seminar on it.
I know I know...stop bitchin
Mix7Studio 2 years ago
I prefer the 4x12 A with no wheels on the 4x12 B with wheels (aesthetically and pragmatically speaking) as for sound, everything will sound with more bottom end on the floor with no wheels. Cheers.
elbenaso 2 years ago
RE: the center post, you can place a dot of paint on the center of the post, put the back on making sure to press on the center of the back to transfer the paint to the back board. then you can use a 1/16 drill bit to drill from the center of the paint that is now on the back of your back board & bingo, no guess work, you're dead center into that post when you put it all back together.
You can also rebuild that post if it's cheaply made (MDF), cracked, etc... for little to no cost.
smurray71 2 years ago
IHi
Im making my own 2x12 and was wondering where the end of the beam goes, the small hole he shows, does that go to a screw in the center of the back cover?
Thanks for the help!
sirgerry 2 years ago
yes...just line it up the best ya can it will be fine...I made a 2x12 out of a SUN 18 Bass cab and put a divider in between them the kinda stop any interaction with each other and it sounds KILLER...good luck with project
WyldeMagiK 2 years ago
@sirgerry i would assume it does.
MrGrumpyGinger 1 year ago
Bob I agree with you on the hard soldering of the speakers, thats all I do in my cabinets but everything else is HIGHLY subjective especially the caulk around the handles. Basically Marshall cabs are built like crap theres no two ways around it. Screwed in baffles are garbage.
killersoundz 2 years ago
here's what you do, TTimmyPokemonDude, just set the head on top of the cab and point your guitar at the speaker you want the sound to come through. when you point it in a circle, you get a really cool rotating speaker effect. try it out.
MegaMave, you're a dick, why couldn't you just tell him how to do it. i bet there was a time you didn't know this either.
evilpinkfreud 2 years ago
where do u connect the head 2 the cab btw
I DO NOT OWN AN AMP WITH A HEAD AND CAB I AM JUST ASKING OUT OF CURIOSITY!
TTimmyPokemonDude 2 years ago
You really should stfu then, because that's just embarrassing.
MegaMave 2 years ago
@TTimmyPokemonDude On the head,there are 2 plug-in things,you plug the speaker cable in one of them,and on the back of the cab,there is also a plug-in unit,so you plug the other end of the speaker cable into that.
ilyazvyagin 2 years ago
@TTimmyPokemonDude use a 1/4" cable (unshielded) and connect it form either input on the head to either input on the cab, and adjust the ohms from there.
JonnyMcTyler 2 years ago
there is an input jack on the back of the cab
secretloser70 2 years ago
There is a speaker output on the back of the head and an input jack on the cab, its idiot proof.. although you want to make sure you use a speaker cable and not an instrument cable..
PPPatrickWWW 2 years ago
are those speakers stock ''1960'' speakers?
jks2 2 years ago
Do you agree with most people (atleast that I've talked to) about the straight cabs sounding better than the slants? I own a 1960a loaded w/ celestion g12-65s that sounds killer, but I'm wondering if I should swap them into a straight cab. If anyone out there has a empty 1960b they are looking to sell, please let me know. I'm in the Boston area.
adam79adam79 2 years ago
Wait, I thought that Bob Molton was a member of Sonic Youth? WTF!?
zedrein18 2 years ago
Am i right in saying that its best to mount your speakers with the gasket against the wood baffle?
I've alway wondered about this as my speakers were not mounted like that the were metal on wood with the gasket on the back of the speaker.
kingdarko 2 years ago
RE: soldering... while not 100% necessary, if left as is from factory, the clips will eventually loosen over time & will eventually need to be replaced. If you decide to go the solder route, be sure to use a lead free silver solder for the best possible connection. There is an alternative, Hot Melt Glue, simply use a hot melt glue gun & completely cover the clips on both sides, & it's easily removable if you ever blow a speaker, just apply some heat till the glue softens & pull the clips off.
smurray71 2 years ago
Forgot to add, you don't have to solder all the internal wiring when you consider how many bands tour the world with Marshall cabs and they throw their cabs all over the place and the sound still comes clear out of each speaker.
5150VanAlien 2 years ago
Im looking for a cabinet, can't decide between the Marshall 1960AV or a Mesa Boogie Standard. I want something with a lot of low end and nice mids and highs. Any suggestions?
Gtrplyr1 2 years ago
get a cab with g12k-100 speakers. Most bottom end. The 1960 cab has V 30s, nasty highs and not much bass. Get the g12k-100s for a better sound with tons of bass.
BLahhamstick 2 years ago
Dude,
Depends what your budget is as the Mesa will cost way much more and if budget is an issue go for the Marshall. The Vintage speakers in the Marshall ARE NOT Celestion V30's as the Marshall speakers are 70 watts each and they are not advertised as G12H (denotes heavy ceramic magnet) instead as G12.
Still, for daily use, the Marshall's OK.
5150VanAlien 2 years ago
Thanks dude, budget isn't an issue at this time thankgod! i guess you would would recommend the Mesa?
Gtrplyr1 2 years ago
Yeah, I would as Mesa's are pretty awesome.
Personally, I like the Stiletto cabs as they are slightly smaller and look cute.
Though don't rule out ENGL cabs as they are pretty awesome too.
Either way, I wish I was in your shoes...buying new gear is always a thrill...
5150VanAlien 2 years ago
Thanks for you input man.
Rock on!!!
Gtrplyr1 2 years ago
Cool dude...hey, if money ain't an issue, then buy me one please???
Rock on too dude and WAKE THE DEAD \m/
5150VanAlien 2 years ago
lol ill tell you what, if i ever win the lottery ill buy you whatever head/cab you want !!!
Gtrplyr1 2 years ago
This guys seems to be offering tips and things that are either permanent or a pain in the ass to reverse if you ever need to change speakers/grill cloth/jacks/whatever. Good tips, but not if you plan on making changes later
FranklinS123456 2 years ago
There IS an L in the word SOLDER! Its not SODDER!
LOL!
Good vid however!
ace69er 2 years ago
It's pronounced 'sodder' look it up.
hideyourface 2 years ago
Why? It might be pronounced 'sodder' in AMERICA, But that doesnt mean it is correct.
Sorry but Brits say soLder, so they can't be wrong CAN they, considering it IS THEIR language!
We Aussies say soLder, Kiwis say soLder, just about every other does along with Canadians, So my guess is its another american minority pronunciation/and/or spelling!
ace69er 2 years ago
The brits also say al-u-min-yum instead aluminum... I personally pronounce it Sauter (saw-ter) but I'm from East Tennessee and we're "Ignorant hicks"... Just kidding and having a little fun!
ChrsGuit 2 years ago
Yeah so do we aussies, its aluminium, NOT aluminum.
Its a regional difference, the 1s I cant stand are the minority 1s saying 'our way is the ONLY way type thing'.
Like the goose further up stating the US runs the world & does everything else for it so ITS way is the only way.
THAT is merely delusional nationalism.
Cheers brother!
ace69er 2 years ago
We do pronounce it sodder, (don't know why) however, it is most certainly spelled solder.
By the way, the brits CAN be wrong. By your logic, they should all still be speaking Germanic and Norman. Language does evolve and change over time. American English has a lot of Spanish (and other stuff) in it. : ]
Oh, and stop trying to insult us for our nationalistic pride, you prideful nationalist.
TheGatheringStorms 2 years ago
Canadians say "sodder". I have never heard ANYONE pronounce the L in solder. So does Webster's dictionary. This is a do it yourself tip that is cheap and cool. It demystifies the cabinet for those who dont know, and even if you only open it, clean it, and properly tighten your speakers, this is money. Thanks Mr Molton.
lilnetty2 2 years ago 4
@lilnetty2 lol dont get me started with american ways of pronouncing words, haha they got their own language lol
CemetaryGatesML 1 year ago
@CemetaryGatesML
We didn't get to where we are by following others ; )
darthinfurnus 1 year ago
@lilnetty2 That's where you're wrong. I know lots of Canadians who say solder.
Glockenator 1 year ago
@Glockenator ....but....The hardware store guys ALL say sodder, my plumber sez sodder. All of them....Canadian ! The people you know are probably not 100% Canuck, maybe theyre aliens . Maybe they lied to you. There must be an explanation !! All my handyman friends- SODDER !! This is evidence I can support my claim with. For the love of God , it is sodder !!!
lilnetty2 1 year ago
@lilnetty2 I'm 100% Canadian and I say solder.
Glockenator 1 year ago
rest of tips are great.
willeng84 2 years ago
hey are those Weber signature 12B speakers at 6:00?
joshuarugg 2 years ago
What does this say about Marshall that you can do LOTS of after market tweaking to make it better? Why isn't this done at the factory?
AwesomerAbe 2 years ago
does this happen to mesa cabs cause ive only ever heard about marshall being the one with the flimsy quality
tdtc85 2 years ago
Even if Marshall cabs are cheaper, customers shouldn't have to go through all this work just to make them "normal again". Seems like Marshall send their cabs out with lesser quality and customer have to bring them up to scratch again.
Best to buy an Ornage 412....
5150VanAlien 2 years ago
Comment removed
5150VanAlien 2 years ago
I don't know if you have but you should have a part two to this finish the cabinet for those who don't know the importance of speaker phasing and wiring for series/parallel. You did a great job on improving speaker cabinet performance which can also be used with other makes. Please complete the run.
Willraillhead 2 years ago
Im glad to see some validity in the things I have been doing for years. The first thing I do when I get a new cab is take it apart and do all of these things! My Mesa cab included! Great vid!
fluff191 2 years ago
God Marshall cabs are over rated crap. Plastic handles that rattle, plastic corner protectors (look at just about any old Marshall cab, the plastic crap is broken) Particle board back plates, (sometimes particle all over), want a good cab for less money? Carvin's got some great cabs with a lot better construction.
betteroffshred 2 years ago
great advice and thanks....the only thing I'd add is that if you're going as far as soldering the speaker terminals you might as well convert those crappy 1/4" jacks to simple Speakon locking conectors...better connectivity plus they lock and of course un-lock quite easily.
Years ago we added 5 way binding posts to our guitarists 1960A cabs for better current transfer and have recently added a pair of Speakons to each cab for their desirable locking characteristics
MightySaturn5 2 years ago
great advice BOB but but the garden hose lol .;.; i would suggest some compressed air an a damp rag or a rag dampened with alcohall for cleaning .. water an flake board is not a good idea;.;.;.
roamershaker 2 years ago 3
is that particle board? it looks like it.
rockwizclown 2 years ago
Best way to avoid this problem...Use Mills acoustic cabs. Lesson for the day..YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!!
shred1969 2 years ago
spot on i have a fender strat and i think its a work of art but the art is in that 9.5 neck radius its loverly to play :)
shakeshaftthomas 2 years ago
what if i want my EQ to be high 10,mid 5, and bass 10. *levels are just for reference*
22112123 2 years ago
actually i used some lysol on a rag and rubbed the tolex down, made it allll shiny and new lookin. Speakers arent the only thing that changes sound. having a solid box will def resonate more and have better punch, then having your shit loose as a goose. YouSpam Tard, your a tard.
jordan52887 2 years ago
I did these modifications, my findings.
1. cleaning. Doesn't do anything to your sound. Maybe better for the speakers.
2. sealing. Gives more punch
3. Center wood post. I changed it for a large wooden block. The cabinet will react stiffer. More direct. If you remove it, the backplate will react in a similar way as a base drum.
4. Also I removed the original backplate of the Marshall and replaced it for a quality multiplex plate. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!
karsterik 2 years ago
this is going to make a huge difference! an air-tight cabinet works far more efficiently than one with leaks... this is rule number one in speaker building. do some research man before you make comments like that!
timmmyj 2 years ago
I understand in principle what you mean, but in reality the tweaks on this vid are not improving fundamentally what design and construction choices there are already in a cab. Speaker change? fine, but If anyone hears a difference its like "who smelt the mouse fart at 3am"
amouseinyerhouse 2 years ago
well really any guitar brand cab is a poor choice. none are made to speaker specs with maybe the mesa thiele as an exception. anywho enough flammin for now
timmmyj 2 years ago
wow this really works my cab sounds a lot better in every way very pounchy notes are clear and tight, create so much pressure on the inside of the cab that my speaker cable was push out after 10 min of playing lol but it was an easy fix i just bend the tip of the jack on the inside of the cab overall great mod recomended...
jciturr 2 years ago
Sounds like David Lee Roth.....
Greenballed 2 years ago
Exactly what I thought, I think compressed air would be much more suitable.
Skeneyedcockeykent 2 years ago 10
thank you, good tips for all cab users!
a
MagyarGuitarplayer 3 years ago
This all sounds good,but I assume you would only recognize the tone difference at realy high D.B. levels..I do have one Marshall cab and I intend on making these mods today.Ill try anything for tone,lol..at least this is free..
petiethepitt 3 years ago 2
nice job
izzydye 3 years ago
Great video! I just bought a POS marshall 4x12 for $100. It sounded, eh... average, but after watching this vid and performing these simple fixes, I now have an amazing sounding 4x12 cab. The difference was mind-boggling. Thanks for your info.
jewrappic 3 years ago
hi.i've got a cab with some foam or cloth inside from the factory[fuchs]around the box.what do you think it does to the sound.should i remove it.i know bogner also uses it.your comments.
cherubim1013 3 years ago
+1 me if you got here through BeerChurch's sig. :)
crazydiamond943 3 years ago 8
lol
mogouzeid 3 years ago
Instead of going through all of this to get great tone, why dont you just buy a Mills Acoustics cab that is already in top shape with higher quality, than something that you have to drop the cash on, take it home, and tweek it for a few days until it sounds ok, you can buy a cab that would whip a tweeked marshal right out of the box
BTWILLED 3 years ago
because sometimes you just have to diy
Jeppetoh 2 years ago
can a stomp box go out into a cab? or it needs an amp to amplify it
KirkTheGod 3 years ago
you need an amp
Vandals572 3 years ago
This video follows what I have done for years however I would add a few comments:
I replace the 2x2 center post with a 2x4.I seal everything to eliminate resonance. If you want a ported cabinet, make a ported cabinet. When tightening the baffle screws, I back each one out first and put a tiny amount of silicone on the end of screws. When re-soldering the circuit board, be careful not to overheat joints.Replace seals on the speakers with new poly seals. Put a dab of silicone on the screw ends.
c3ajeff 3 years ago
Great tips,highly appreciated,can I use compressed air instead of water? The thought of water and wood almost makes me shiver.
deadratsalad 3 years ago
The post also prevents the back from becoming a resonator. The piece of wood is big enough that it can act like a bass drum head but it would cause certain frequencies to really boom out so the post acts like a dampener to prevent that from happening.
jacktheripped 3 years ago
Buy a mesa boogie cabinet and you wont have to worry about shoty craftsmanship. I opened up my mesa boogie traditional 4x12 after watching this video to check these issues and it has NONE of these problems. THANKS MESA!!
guitaristguy20 3 years ago
I opened my Mesa 2x12 rac cab to replace one of the speakers that was blown. It was very clean and built like a tank. I had trouble taking the back penal off of it.
atrunk 3 years ago
I vacuumed mine.
greenblob123 3 years ago 3
lol
UberTroll13 3 years ago
Thanks so much for the tip...one question though what kind of calk should I use? Laytex? Sillicon? I am sure when I get to the store there will be 5 different kinds to choose from...thanks in advance
greek440bc 3 years ago
any caulk. I used bathroom caulk that was on sale. i must of used a whole tube .
greenblob123 3 years ago
if i wanted to do this to my jcm900 combo what would i have to do? just the same?
georgakis187 3 years ago
pretty much if it has a closed back i'm guessing
greenblob123 3 years ago
My thin sounding JCM 900 is now, full,
Oomphy and nice pleasing, rounded rich mids. and highs are still as harsh as they used to be. THanks alot bud!
greenblob123 3 years ago
So basically your doing a job that should have been done right from the start.
kingdarkstar8 3 years ago 7
Yeah, this video goes to show you that Marshall cabs aren't as good as people think.
vampolka 3 years ago 5
but this is how you make it killer, a marshall cab that is.
zyxwfish 3 years ago
holy shit!!!! when i was unscrewing my cabinet the stupid fucks glued part of the back on and i broke it off. but on the bright side all i did was tighten up all the screws and vacuumed all the dirt out and the difference in tone is like night and day. the overdrive channel on my amp is so much more clear. me and the other gutiarist in our band both did this and our amps sound orgasmic now.
fiddycent2 3 years ago
If your going to do this sort of maintenance then I suggest a few other things:
* replace the speaker 'wire' with proper monster cable speaker cable - 16g is $2/ft OR get the best you can afford (this goes for up to $50/ft or more!)
* Get rid of the jack switcher altogether - hardwire it for the mode you need (stereo or mono) - that PCB is a weak link
I worked in audio for years and years... the funny thing is that I never applied that to a marshall cab-thought original was how pros did it
goingwithzed 3 years ago
Yeah going, we did that with our guitarists 1960A years ago.
We left the back panel/jack plate on for asthetics but disconnected it from the speakers...all the old thin gauge wiring was replaced with 14 gauge high strand zip cord (soldered to each speaker terminal), this stuff is all over the place on used vacumes, irons, microwaves etc (any high wattage items) -for around $10 you could even buy a small spool at Radio Shack, Walmarts, Home Depot, etc.
MightySaturn5 3 years ago
...anyway after we rewired(4 ohms only)we added and connected all new wiring to a 5-way binding post'plate'(since been upgraded to 'Speakon') -all 1/4" jacks/plugs are known to have questionable contact area which means potentially less power to your cab and since our guitarist achieves his exact tone through his preamps send/return(Metal zone pedal) and uses a 250 watt per channel musically 'neutral'power amp you can't really use 1/4" jacks anyway.
MightySaturn5 3 years ago
that wood post part can't matter much...
goingwithzed 3 years ago
I assume it's sort of like the sound post in a cello, distributing the sound evenly throughout the instrument.
Also, by centering it, you assure that it wont split.
ProblemAudio 3 years ago
You should create your own line of amps, you would be the new Diezel. :P
229Mafia 3 years ago 2
can you do this to all 4x12 cabinets? because i don't have a marshal cabinet but a laney LV412A cab with celestion 50 speakers in it.
slayerized667 3 years ago
Hey can I ask you a question ??
I'm thinking about this cab + laney gh100 or 50. Is it good when it is loud, for stage, sure ???
partyboy93 3 years ago
the whole cab is loud enough for the stage, i think. (when i turn the knob in the 2nd lead channel to 3, my whole room is starting to vibrate :D )
but i guess it would be better if you would buy the cabinet with celestion vintage 30's - on the laney homepage they say that it has the optimal range for the GH50 & 100 heads, but i don't know (never tried it before)
slayerized667 3 years ago
All I can say is, if you're the adventerous type, then by all means go for it! I am that kinda person. For example, that's why I always fix guitars. The first few times, I messed up pretty bad because I didn't know anything about them. LOL But when you do things like this, you teach yourself at the same time. Maybe after a while of you messing with amps, you'd be one of the best! LOL I think it'll work with any other cabs, just use at this video as guidelines, instead of directions. My opinion.
puggs101 3 years ago
that was a great video! thank you for putting so much time and effort into it!
tpingt 3 years ago
Great job on the video! Sounds fun, easy and I going to try it.
kaicho8888 4 years ago
The MacGyver of Rock!!!
pieboyaz 4 years ago 4
Thanks for this Bob
I did this to my 1960 B 4x12 and Wow !
Every 4x12 owner should do this.
ragegap 4 years ago
hey bob i have a marshall mg30dfx little thing right now im getting a cabinet and head soon but for my 30dfx is there anything i ccan do to enhance the tone of that (ive been playing for 3 years)
SoloBen247 4 years ago
yeah. i would like to know that too!
clarity18 4 years ago
Is the DFX closed on the back? if not, CLOSE IT. I closed my Solid State Kustom Arrow amp, and the tone got so much richer and warmer. But make sure that you tighten good and Seal overall.
If you really dig that amp, you might get a new speaker. I'd go fore either Fane or Celestion. But they are kinda expensive.
You could potencially do anything in this vid to any cab/amp.
perkristian876 4 years ago
ya its open back meh im not gonna bother doin much to it tho cause ill get my cab and do everything to that
SoloBen247 4 years ago
very interesting
wyldeslash2003 4 years ago
wow i thought marshall was top of the line... they dont make like they used to eh?
superjoelucky12 4 years ago
this has got to be a , wind up ,yeh :) .
j7777777 4 years ago
Thxs man!! But about speakers??? Reissues greenbacks? I have Gt75s and I dont like!! Suggestions?? thanks for the video Bob always awesome and helpful!!
MusiciansQuarters 4 years ago
great vid
drumitar 4 years ago
COOL
THANKS BOB
Shredderguy 4 years ago