Added: 4 years ago
From: energyfromwater
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  • Hi, for 1 you should use 316L, 304 or 307 will carrode the plates. 2 you should clean each plate and use gloves when assembling. 3 with that many plates you should use sodium hydroxide,

    or potassiun hydroxide, they will run a lot cleaner and produce higher amps. in turn you should have massive hho production. hope this helps.

  • use vinegar to clean it then use salt in the solution ... you'll make loads of hydrogen.. i use it for my welding rig :D much cheaper... and dangerous... unless you know somewhat about bubblers to prevent the flame from reaching the tank if there is a back up... i wouldn't recommend it >>"

  • i suggest you to try tungsten plates, because tungsten is a low corrosive metal and highly conductive

  • i suggest you to try tungsten plates, since tungsten is a low corrosive metal and highly conductive

  • i made one with ss plates, and nikonell or inconell? what the fuck ever it's called, it's like $80 a pound, used in ultra high corrosion app's (it fell off a truck).. but my ss plates turned black, the inconell outer (negative) plates were clean, as soon as that truck drives by again, i'm building a positive stack out of the shit. it's wicked tough, and impossible to drill i hav2 notch it with a grinder. and it eats up whiz wheels like crazy.

  • use an ultrasonic cleaner... i think that stain is rust well it looks like rust...

  • Sulphuric Acid 

  • are you trying to make hydrogen or clean metal? If your trying to make hydrogen, you should only use distilled water.

  • ok, I see the design on this one. God be PRAISED! lol

  • Sulphuric Acid, H2SO4 + scrubber

    Be Careful but

  • brake cleaner... cheap and obvious.

    or pickle it, make a solution of hardware store hydrochloric acid and distilled water

    mix it 5% acid to 95% water

    pour this into a crock pot, turn it on low and warm it up, put the cell in and pull it out when it's done, not sur it will work on stainless though, i'm asuming that you got it off cause this vid was made in 2007

  • sand blasting is a excellent way to deface the contamination. Are you using 20 amps or better to get a better reaction? Anything less than that will labor trying to charge all that metal. Shoot the juice to it if you haven't already done so..

    .

  • coca cola makes perfect :)

  • h2o0il is a dot COMmon along fine

  • Are you sure the rod is stainless ?.

    Most threaded rods i've seen are nickel plated.

  • distilled vineger works great

  • The star of David is made of triangles. Yours is made of squares, so it is the star of Ralph.

  • Ralph Wiggum

  • have you tried the magnet? stainless shouldn't stick to it. Although i checked some of my stainless tea jars and they a little bit magnetic. ps. i like this star david design , sure lots of work.

  • it's not really worth it, but if you want to clean it, just use dish washing detergent, it'll take the oil right off. then dry it and maybe sand the plates a little.

    it's a nice machining/assembly job though.

  • Im sorry you feel so bad that its stained. It shouldn't be a problem or cause interference with your hho output. I can tell you now though that the staining is from high density hydrogen.Only suggestion I would have is to use 316L 20 gauge stainless steel. It wont corrode as fast. No way in hell should you be putting white vinegar in to clean your plates!I use baking soda in my hho unit 1/4 teaspoon baking soda is all that you should be mixing in with the water NOT vinegar!

  • If you change your electrolite to white distilled vinegar, you will have to adjust the ratio of vinegar to water to get the maximum production. Your plates will stay clean.

  • cool desien tho

  • The answer is simple. You bought low grade stainless steel. It's probably korean. It's not that you did something wrong(unless your plates are making direct contact) It's just contaminated stainless. Yes, there is such thing as contaminated stainless or low grade stainless.

  • i made a cell the same as yours but a 12 plate marine stainless steel and found that it got hot so changed it around to a 9 plate in this order( + nutral - nutral + nutral - nutral + ) found that it needed more baking soda added but used less amps to get same results which means less heat i hope

  • Buy stainless steel 4x4 plates 304 ebay item 250272140381

  • reverse your polarity

  • hello there a reason could be that you had used a copper wireat the bottom of you plates

  • you need carbon or platinum, stainless will create unwanted gases

  • nothing but 316L ss steal can be used, you must be using 304

  • hey !

  • I have a 6 plate made from 304 wall plates and using disilled water and NaOH, was using baking soda, gunked up the plates. NaOH clened them but had to change out the water. Pulling 13.7 volts and 20 amps bit not getting alot of bubbles. Looking for 1 LMP

  • Take white distilled vinegar to clean up the mess and use 316L stainless steel and I suggest youwatch OriginalOncleNemo video and read his introduction

    AMOX

  • All the impurities are coming out the steel --i normall leave it to run ---changing the water evry couple of hours...comes clean

  • Try dipping into a bucket of hydrogen peroxide and let time separate the oil from the plates. Oil rises when it's in water. Or you can pressure wash it with high temp water only.

  • Only use 316L, neutrals, and increase the gap to obout 1/8" and you will be good to go. You will lose some plate surface area due to the gaps, but it will last longer and will not corrode as easily.

    I have found that even 316L will orrode/turn black in spots if you place + - together and have them only 1/16" apart. This was using 100% (no water added) distilled vinegar as the catalyst. Im not sure how the other more akaline catalysts would react, but I know what vinegar will do (acidic)

  • looks like you used 304 Stainless... you need to go with 316 or better... 316 is "Marine Grade" and VERY resistant to corrosion.

    I discovered this the hard way myself..My 304 plates corroded HEAVILY. turned BLACK/Brown and stained.. Cell also overheated..

    I was Using Vinegar as catalyist... 316 cost about 2x as much.. I am ordering a 3x 4 sheet of 22gauge... from McMaster carr tomorrow... Runs about 99$ for this sheet

  • I agree Ive used 304 and its a nightmare. Although i added neutral plates then lowered the ph and havent had as much crap. also toying with aluminum neutrals. Seems good. Heard high ph can react though. I was using 304 with tape separating and it leached oxide like a bugger. Even with straight distilled no electrolyte

  • awsome design. praise the lord.

    nice work.

    keep it up.

    try to make the bubbles side ways.

    instead of upwards.

    peace

    scootermundo

  • Not full strength juice btw. about 1 tbsp per ltr.

  • use lemon juice and run the cell as normal for about 2 min and repeat until clean. It actually works to remove the staining that occurs.

  • nice job by the way.

  • make sure its not the PLASTIC coated SS plates.. they do exist.. it might actually be the THIN film of acrylic that is holding the stain NOT the steel.. Of course it could be just poor quality stainless...

    Another thing you can try CLR soaking it in there to remove the rust. but it will just corrode again most likely.

    Als are you SURE you used SS WASHERS? Maybe those are the ones rusting/staining the plates and are elctroplating the plates with rust they look pretty bad too

  • on another web site they sand paperd plates with 90 paper,

    as for stains acid cleaner maybie even oven cleaner.

  • I saw in another video a citric acid / hot water mix that cleaned up his coils nicely.

  • Try high energy pulse instead of direct current, My system will explode water that is the key to energy from water. Making Hydrogen that takes too much power to convert into H2 + O is not the way to do it.....Good luck.

  • Stainless steel 317 works well, also don't use salt water this will cause electrolysis in the steel and keep down the amps too! Look up a Stan Meyer system that will help in your design.

  • sand blast it maybe?

  • Try using 430 stainless steel that has about 17% Chromium in it that is .028 thick! Let me know how it turns out for you!

  • the brown is rust comming off the steel. use a higher grade stainless to prevent this

  • The residue is Fe leaching out from the surface of lesser grade stainless and turning to FeO when with the O2 being released. If you dismantle the cell you'll probably find most of the residue on one side only. The side liberating H will be cleaner.

    Soaking in 10% citric acid will not only clean the residue off but it will also passivate the Fe from the surface. It's not harmful, though. Just ugly.

    This is a very clever parallel plate design though. Nicely done.

    Zero

  • Nice design, I would have liked to see this splitter in action. Too bad you didn't record the test run.

  • your gizmo could easily pull 20 amps or more with right electrolyte. dont connect direct to a battery charger but instead hook the charger to a battery and run gizmo from the battery.

  • KOH will leave least residue, Sodium Hydroxide will foam but leave plates clean, baking soda leaves little residue but DONT BREATH VAPORS and please avoid SALT as it will give of chlorine gas.

    Be safe and keep trying! Cool plate config. Suspect will tend to be a better water heater than splitter. Let us know how it works.

  • some of the stuff you will see left behind on your apparatus when you use tap water will make you never want to drink that stuff again! Use CLR to get it cleaned up, then give it a soak in for a day or two in lite acid bath (vinegar or citric acit) to remove oil (from hands normally) then only touch with gloves after. Then use distiled water with electrolite.

  • Its probably residue from the minerals in the water. Just clean it with CLR or any other lime and rust remover. That cleaned my plates up nicely.

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