Added: 4 months ago
From: mrpete222
Views: 8,596
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  • I've watched nearly all your video's several times. I find them quite addictive, your an excellent teacher. I'm disabled and cant do some of the things you show. You make it look so much fun and so very interesting that by hook or crook I am going to have a go. I struggle to even walk so this should be interesting! I have even just ordered a 9x30 bench lath. Thank you.

  • impressive, keep the great videos coming!

  • The DRO error is from the oversize pins. Measure the left side of one pin using a square to the left side of the next pin using the inside of the caliper. This gives a true "center to center" measurement without factoring the pin diameter which will always lead to error. I do love your work as others also seem to. Hope this spurs an interest in younger people.

  • @alsledge46 Yes, I agree. Mr. Pete mentioned the dowel pins were 2 thou over and that's what introduced the error. I think the DRO example was smack dab on and the other methods were accordingly less accurate when you account for the dowel pin error.

  • best videos on youtube

  • do you use a plug gage to calibrate your calipers?

  • perhaps a good way to verify the differences would be to measure with your calipers when you scribe the mark, then again after you have punched the mark.

  • I've watched the whole "tips" series, and I'm not even a machinist. But I have parts made for me quite often, and it's useful to be able to talk to them about techniques and how things can be done. So thanks for putting these out!

    I think the errors in the DRO method happened at the drill press. Despite your attempt to keep chips from getting under the block, you lifted it slightly when you slid it. When you removed the block from the table, you could see chips where the block was.

  • Thank you

  • Excellent video!

  • On the first holes done on the mill with the DRO, the inaccuracies could be caused by flaws in the pins, or the pins not being driven in perfectly straight.

  • Kind of like the shrinkage rulers you showed for casting a while ago, different materials will expand/contract at different rates wrt to temperatures. Perhaps the DRO scale was calibrated at a different temperature, and the material it's on more sensitive to temperature changes, than that of the other methods.

  • Great video. Thanks for sharing. I'd like to see a video on work holding where clamps on the edge would get in the way.

  • great videos! Maybe your next set could be on how to measure the position of holes on an existing part, so you can then transfer the hole pattern onto a new part? thanks and keep up the great work.

  • You should link those two channels in the description of your first video. It makes things easier for us using our mobile phone. Thanks

  • @Nator187 Good idea, but how is it done?

  • @mrpete222

    There is a Video Tools tab/pull-down menu that allows annotations to be added to any video. You can type or paste you link there. Keep in mind that the annotation text does not have to match the link text. In other words, you annotation might just say "Click here for part 1", but the link would be "you tube.com/watch?v=t6evpRPPlrY"

    Hope this helps ...

  • Good Stuff!!

  • please have another installment after you figure out what's causing the error in the mill drilled holes.

  • Unless locked down, the table can move within the backlash. Double check the DRO reading after you lock the table in position. Also, you may want to check your gibs. If they are loose, he table can shift. How are the quil and spindle bearings on the head of your mill? Just some things to think about and check - as if you needed assistance!

  • great set of videos as usual.. i suspect the reason your DRO version was out was because you locked and unlocked your table between holes.. the table will move a few 10ths or even thousanths.. try it again, but just tension the table so it still moves, and leave it until your done.. this should solve the error. I have had this problem before with my mill doing exactly the same job.

  • great video, when you are measuring the pins couldn't you verify the dimension with a micrometer? I have always found a variance with the calipers.

  • Great job as usual. Thanks for taking the time to teach.

  • What great tips, I will start using them. That you.

  • or Rather the most consistant results any how?

    Some times the oldest method is the best.

    Wire or meshuring string, with a loop on each end.

    worked just like the points of a spanning Compass.

  • The punch I was mentioning? with a wire hoop?

    on a line? mite give the best results?

  • If they where By Deg,?

    Around a fly wheel or

    Gear bevel? I doubt that

    .002 would make much

    of a differance.

  • Oh and Pete?

    They have a version

    of that type punch, sold on the Automotive tool trucks,

    Snappon I think? Any how it works off of a loaded spring and colappsing mechnism, No hamer, you just push it in to place? and press solidly down,

    And it go's pop! and leaves a divit.

  • I don't keep a rifle any more it makes peaple Edgy, I now keep a flame thrower.

    it keep's theaves away. He-he.

  • Some times called a diviting punch right?

  • I usually mark up small inaccuracies like that DRO block to parts flexing. Without a more trammed device who knows.

  • Great information about the use of the surface plate and height gauge for layout.

    Maybe you could use the angle plate and height gauge to take another measure measurement of the spacing to see if it is any different.

  • Tubalcain thank you for all your video's

    one note:

    nothing wrong with the dro, other one are off more,

    if you measure outside then inside and add the 2 and then dived by 2 you will find the dro was on the money, this makes up for the size of the dowl pins

  • Another great video!

    Maybe the error is in the vernier? Could I suggest using a 1" slip gauge to check.

    Apologies if you have done so off camera.

  • Another very instructive set of videos, thank you. I would certainly be interested in your findings with the Bridgeport emainination.

  • If you don't mind a suggestion, when I was actively tool and die making, I would make my first tap lightly, then examine it with a magnifying glass. If it was off a shade, I would tap it again with the punch tilted to move the mark in the right direction. When it was perfect, I would tap it one last time with the punch vertical so the punch mark would become symetrical again and perfectly aligned.

  • Nice video. I learned some good technique. Thanks for making and posting.

  • another method, use in the milling machine: from MSC (see Fine Centering Scope)

    All Product Categories > Measuring & Inspecting > Inspecting, Detecting & Testing Instruments > Optical Inspection Equipment > Microscopes, Magnifiers & Loupes > Magnifiers & Loupes

    Fine Centering Scope

    Description: Fine Centering Scope Type: Scope with Crosshair Reticle Magnification: 45x

  • Did you fabricate the bench block yourself or did you purchase it from some one?

  • @DieselCrawler86 Got it at an auction.

  • Absolutely love your videos! have learned more watching your videos than i could ever absorbed through reading articles! Thank you so much for taking the time to make and post these videos!. (Hampton VA)

  • rrrrrrr-woof woof......IMO your error could have been at the drill press with the reamer, also locking and unlocking the mill table, I was taught not to lock but keep a consistent drag with the lock. It will be interesting to hear what you find, but thanks again for another lesson!

  • @schneidp20 A brass hammer won't deform the punch. No matter how lightly you tap, eventually a steel hammer will introduce distortion (mushrooming). Especially for something like that optical punch , the punch will no longer fit in the bore of the magnetic holder. At least that's been my experience.

  • I think you need a more accurate pair of calipers. The movement in your measurement could also give you a false reading. But that is why you taught instead of working in a machine shop.

  • THanks again. I'd like to understand why a brass hammer was used over a steel hammer.

  • great stuff keep up the good work thank you

  • A very nice presentation. Always a pleasure watching you explain the process. I need more tools!

  • Good to see you back in the shop. Finally something worth watching on youtube. Great stuff always worth watching. When you get back on the Mill how about a lesson on Facing Mills (fly cutters). Keep em coming

  • Thak You

  • Very cool to see how its done

  • Fantastic! Thankyou tubalcain! Very interesting and informative as always!

  • Nice video, real good. Keep them coming. Good job

  • Many thanks for your lessons, always thery interesting and instructive.

    thnks again

    Giorgio

  • Another great mini series tubalcain. I to was surprised about the DRO, but it just goes to show that manual methods are also accurate too and still very valid. I will certainly keep an eye out for optical centre gauges - I hadn't seen one before this. Thank you once again.

  • Comment removed

  • very educative video as usual ! I haven't watched all of yours yet but I'm learning so much each time I watch one. Unlike Grand'ma recipes which lead you to a result thru trials and failure, you give us the proper thing : thank you !

  • Why can't we ask any questions?

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