Added: 1 year ago
From: organotill
Views: 1,347
Sort by time | Sort by thread (beta)

Link to this comment:

Share to:

All Comments (5)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • Very interesting

  • I wish i knew all the answers. I have decided to let the char work its way down by worm and insect action as well as covering it with mulch. I don't know how much mineral content to use. Don't know who has it worked out. I think the amount that can be added is way past what i can add now. Thanks

  • Hmmm...you know, even if you're a no till farmer...you still have to till one last time to add the biochar. Seems to me how this job is done is very-very important...

    Questions of ratios, depths & proper inocuations are spinning through my head.

    Thanks for reading...just writing my thoughts down...sharing my questions...

  • I am curious about how to 'treat' the biochar prior to putting it in the soil?

    To what depth?

    What amount; soil/biochar ratio? Would it be better in the soil below the till depth..or within the till depth(assuming you tilled, of course)?

    And videos detailing benefits(bigger better plants) seem to be in short supply(I've only seen one; and it was a shallow clip from Africa)...I certainly will be doing my own experiments this spring...I hope you do as well...!

    Thanks for the vid.

  • Yes, wood-charcoal should be used instead of peat-moss or sand. Charcoal (made from burning wood) is not as heavy as sand, and lasts much longer than peat-moss, performing the same role of retaining nutrients and moisture.

    Natural forests count on renewal from burning, but fires are incompatible with living in houses, so we have lost the naturally produced benefits from fire, such as charcoal.

Loading...
Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more