Nice tshirt trick thanks! Also something I like to do is lightly burn parts of the stock to make darker zebra stripishish patterns then soak in linseed oil.
I've heard "cold-bluing" should only be used for touch-ups, knicks, etc. A caustic salt/hot bluing is the only permanent method. I'd assume you'd disagree, but would like your opinion. Thanks!
@cptexas1 Well for the person on a budget, cold bluing may be the better route. But, it's probably no contest that a caustic/hot bluing will probably last longer. If you do good prep work, a cold blue should last for a while, but it's also good for touch ups too. One can always heat the metal and add cold blue that way too. And cold bluing isn't that hard to do either, and can be added at any time if there are wear spots.
iron os for steaming out the dents in the stock of the wood and dont tell me yuo have a bucket of bioling water on the ground next to you and yuo have wd-40, kaboom and a scrub brush next to that in the vidoe i'm at 1:09 in the vdoe i'm just guesing what happens next i havent watched the entire video
@everettwilliams31 If you're so dissatisfied with it, then perhaps you can do a better job at making a video on this topic. If you felt so sick so easily, then perhaps you shouldn't have watched any of it. The only way to distribute information is to talk. It would be more "boring" if it were all text, for example.
@MarshalZhukov I think it's a fair observation about the motion. It's a nice video, but camera work can be distracting, something anyone producing videos needs to consider. Is there a reason to move the camera? If not might as well have a stable position. Then the viewer can concentrate on what you're talking about.
I didn't have any problem with your talking, though. Informative video!
@txstang84 No problem. Get some stripping paste, and let sit for 30-45 minuets. Scrape paste off and remove the rest with paint thinner. After that, just wash with dish washing soap, and then refinish the stock in your finish of choice, oil, stain, new shellac, poly eurathane. This works with alot of finishes and im sure it will work with shellac, try multiple coats of stripper if its thick and wont come off.
Big 5 sell $99 dollars with laminated stock.....I think at begin buy this kind of gun and SAVE ALL WORK + Time + Money for a guy HATE WORK like me haha
@MarshalZhukov Fill the gouges in with polyeurathane or some other wood finish untill its equal with the rest of the stock. I love the way a stock looks like with old, beautiful refinished scars, and dark scratches underneath a shiny coat of nice oil.
@Zeppelinfaktor Sounds like it's an ex-Dragoon! How's the bore? Not a bad price either considering the market nowadays. Congrats! I don't see any vids of it, perhaps you should remedy that situation accordingly!
@MarshalZhukov I'll probobly get around to making a video, however i want to shoot it first. I was suprised at the condition of the bore, it looks brand new! It has never been recrowned or counterbored hell all of the bluing on the crown is still there! It looks like this gun was made and then thrown in cosmoline. Btw how do you tell its an ex dragoon?
@Zeppelinfaktor One way is if there is writing on the barrel shank in Russian. That's a pretty good indicator. The other way, there will be a gap at the base of the rear sight where the barrel was machined to accept the rear sight assembly. If there is no gap, and the base of the rear sight sits flush with the machined area for the rear sight base, then it is a 91/30. But the year of yours should be an ex-Dragoon.
@strechinpick Wait a while and keep checking it. If the wood is really dry, then it might soak in pretty fast. If it does that, give it a good wipe down with a dry cloth, and let it soak for a couple hours, and repeat. But on multiple coats, let dry a few hours, and wipe off the excess.
@badxradxandy On something that's "run of the mill" like a standard 91/30 refurb, no it probably would not. But if you did it to a more collectible rifle, then it most definitely would. I'd say it probably wouldn't hurt anything if you did it to your Tula.
@gruelin1 I should have used shellac to begin with. But I don't know if the Romanians used shellac? But I also didn't want to deal with any peeling shellac either down the road. I guess over long enough time either finish might chip or peel anyways. I like using boiled linseed oil as I did on my Russian SKS. I'll live with it. It turned out pretty good though at any rate. It will keep the water off it.
i commented on this video before, but now i finally have the stuff to refinish my M91/30. what would you recommend to seal the stock? Polyurethane? Polycrylic? Shellac?
im refinishing my mosin nagant M38 stock soon.. and sometime after i want to bed it.. and will refinish the metal later... right now im just looking for stain colors to decide just which color i want to stain the M38
I like the Sedona Red color on mine. I used it on this Romanian M44, and my SKS. Turned out beautifully with a couple coats of BLO over the stain. If you get to bedding soon, document it. I want to bed one of my MN rifles, and haven't done a bedding job before. The more help the better I guess for a first attempt!
yeah, i may go red sedona... im still debading if i want to bed the stock of my M38 carbine, or leave the stock.. stock and maybe make another stock for it... would be cool if i could make a straight comb tactical style stock for playing with, leaving the MN stock in its origional state... though i guess if the russian military wasnt trying to cut costs, bedding probably would have been part of the manufacture process of the nagants, so its just picking up where they left off i guess
marshal, I'm working on an SKS right now. There if one spot that I just can't get the dirt out. I started with a stripper, washed w/soap/water, stealwool, cooked out the cosmo, repeated, sanded, get get the dirt out of the grip. any tips? also tried min spirits. Thanks I saw u had an SKS going, and I haven't doon 1 since summer so...here we go!
I checked your vid. The stock looked good. I put a stripper on it 3 times, 4 mineral spirits baths, sanding, wet t-shirt and iron for probably a half hour anyways, then more sanding. The wet t-shirt and iron with a steam setting helped raise a few shallow dents, and brought some more gunk to the surface that sanded off too. If it won't come out with all you have done, you might have to live with it. 55 yr old cosmo in a stock is kinda stubborn. I didn't want to dry it out with min. spirits more.
@MarshalZhukov all very complicated-im lookin to refinish a chinese airgun with a crappy orange lookin finish!can u give me 4 basic steps?im not workin with a b.a.r,just a 30 dollar pistol in .177?
Paint stripper is what I use to strip stocks. Then I use alcohol and talcum powder to get any remaining oil (usually at the grip). But if heavily oil soaked I wash with soap and hot water and/or place above the fireplace to heat it out. That's all done for uniformity. Then I apply numerous coats of varathane (submerge it in a bucket if available) and hang to dry overnight. Then I use fine sand paper (no less than 320) and whatever oil I choose to finish it.
You finish it by using your index and middle finger and sandpaper, dipping them in oil and going in a circular motion over the stock. That way you build up a mud of oil and wood particles to fill in the grain. Going with the grain won't fill in the grain. If you want to be lazy about it, sometimes I do with free work, go across the grain.
I have a degree from Colorado School of Trades (in case you're wondering).
You could use Dawn Power Dissolver I hear that works pretty well. I didn't have any shellac to get rid of on the Romanian M44 I refinished. I just sanded off all of the old finish. So if that doesn't work, and mineral spirits doesn't work, and depending on how comprehensive your refinish will be, sanding might be your best bet if you want to take it down to bare wood. The ironing trick will help get those dents out. Then follow up with finer and finer grit until you stain. Will you be staining?
Well, I'm sure I mentioned in the vid somewhere, or wrote it that I used the Sedona Red #222 finish from Minwax. Turned out ok. I just picked up a Russian SKS that has seen better days. I think I will try to restore it to its former glory. I would like to try the same Minwax finish on the stock but follow it up with some BLO instead of a clear coat. I think that will accent the grain as well.
Hi I was wondering if you would be able to do a disassembeling video of the m95. I noticed that there is nothing on here or on the internet about this rifle. Please Please do a review on the m95 as well! Thank you!
thanks for the great idea on using an iron on steem setting and a wet T-shirt to help raise the wood grain to remove fine stracthes! I take it you do this after sanding? just so I'm clear its 120 grit to start, then 220, 500, then 600 grit to finish? The stain you used was boild limeseed oil? I have an old 1918 British .303cal MKIII. that I really want to finish the stock and reblue the barell, etc. as well I have a CIL 171, .22lr, (remake of the Rem. 500), that I want to do the same too.
I did this after I did the initial sanding. After it dries out from the wet shirt and iron, then the following grits will smooth out the stock. I used boiled linseed oil on the M95. I would recommend refinishing the stock on your .22 LR before doing anything to that Enfield. It may hold its value more left in its original stock. An Enfield that old holds a lot of history in that stock.
I mixed some paraffin wax and BLO in a double boiler to make a paste and hand rubbed it on, let it dry, and buffed it. It made my Yugo Mauser look great, except the right side of my stock is darker than the left for some reason.
Sanding didn't seem to lighten it any and neither did stripper, any idea why?
It could be possible there is a stain in there that has soaked in to the grain. Try steaming it out with an iron and steam setting and wet Tshirt, or mineral spirits, or any other kind of stripping agent found at hardware stores. But if you stripped it all off, then it would probably ruin the finish you just put on it, and would have to do it over again.
The barrel in that M95 in this video is shot out. There is no hope for it. I suppose some large bullets may find the worn riflings, but I think it is going to be a wall hanging rifle anyways. I think it would look good on the wall. My other M95 doesn't group too badly, but it shoots incredibly high.
To remove the crossbolt on my nagant I use one of those crapy gun lock keys that came with the rifle and modified it with a dremal and file to fit the holes and it only too about 5 mins. "for your health"
That is a good question. If it looks like an original, the same could be had. I refinished my M95 because the barrel was just absolutely shot out of it. The Romanian M44 I thought was a Izhevsk Russian M44. The arsenal stamps are similar, but discernable. I stay away from the M91 restoration myself, or the more rare models. I would also suggest that to anyone else, if you have a more rare model, don't mess with it. That is how value is lost. Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching :D
Thanks for the great Vids Marshal. Question; does refinishing and re bluing destroy the value of it being an "Antique" ? Granted with 50 Mil 1891/30's or whatever, there isn't much 'value' but i'm curious how the MN market reacts to restoration.
Nice tshirt trick thanks! Also something I like to do is lightly burn parts of the stock to make darker zebra stripishish patterns then soak in linseed oil.
StealthFire61 2 months ago
@StealthFire61 Yea that looks pretty cool. I've never done it, but seen it done before.
MarshalZhukov 2 months ago
I've heard "cold-bluing" should only be used for touch-ups, knicks, etc. A caustic salt/hot bluing is the only permanent method. I'd assume you'd disagree, but would like your opinion. Thanks!
cptexas1 5 months ago
@cptexas1 Well for the person on a budget, cold bluing may be the better route. But, it's probably no contest that a caustic/hot bluing will probably last longer. If you do good prep work, a cold blue should last for a while, but it's also good for touch ups too. One can always heat the metal and add cold blue that way too. And cold bluing isn't that hard to do either, and can be added at any time if there are wear spots.
MarshalZhukov 5 months ago
iron os for steaming out the dents in the stock of the wood and dont tell me yuo have a bucket of bioling water on the ground next to you and yuo have wd-40, kaboom and a scrub brush next to that in the vidoe i'm at 1:09 in the vdoe i'm just guesing what happens next i havent watched the entire video
bobbert890 8 months ago
@bobbert890 I'm not sure what you're trying to say here. I didn't use any boiling water, or wd-40.
MarshalZhukov 8 months ago
Just zoom out, that side to side crap made me seasick, and good grief talk, talk, talk, with brief episodes of boring.
everettwilliams31 8 months ago
@everettwilliams31 If you're so dissatisfied with it, then perhaps you can do a better job at making a video on this topic. If you felt so sick so easily, then perhaps you shouldn't have watched any of it. The only way to distribute information is to talk. It would be more "boring" if it were all text, for example.
MarshalZhukov 8 months ago
@MarshalZhukov I think it's a fair observation about the motion. It's a nice video, but camera work can be distracting, something anyone producing videos needs to consider. Is there a reason to move the camera? If not might as well have a stable position. Then the viewer can concentrate on what you're talking about.
I didn't have any problem with your talking, though. Informative video!
nongmin88 3 months ago
Nice-my biggest concern is to remove the thick red shellac on my Mosins
txstang84 1 year ago
@txstang84 No problem. Get some stripping paste, and let sit for 30-45 minuets. Scrape paste off and remove the rest with paint thinner. After that, just wash with dish washing soap, and then refinish the stock in your finish of choice, oil, stain, new shellac, poly eurathane. This works with alot of finishes and im sure it will work with shellac, try multiple coats of stripper if its thick and wont come off.
Southern661 1 year ago
@Southern661 or even some sanding.
conciousness88 5 months ago
Big 5 sell $99 dollars with laminated stock.....I think at begin buy this kind of gun and SAVE ALL WORK + Time + Money for a guy HATE WORK like me haha
CharlieDoan 1 year ago
Finish with Iron?
CharlieDoan 1 year ago
how many coats?
iamaGod357 1 year ago
@iamaGod357 Don't know how many I put on the Romanian M44, but for the other one, there is details in the description of the video.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
@MarshalZhukov Fill the gouges in with polyeurathane or some other wood finish untill its equal with the rest of the stock. I love the way a stock looks like with old, beautiful refinished scars, and dark scratches underneath a shiny coat of nice oil.
Southern661 1 year ago
@RifleM16A4 You can use whatever you want. I have never used tru oil on anything.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
nice guns!!! i love ur background music and magic tricks...
amppyman88 1 year ago
I just bought a 91/30 for $130, its a tula made in 1927 hex with all kinds of markings on them. It looks pretty sweet
Zeppelinfaktor 1 year ago
@Zeppelinfaktor Sounds like it's an ex-Dragoon! How's the bore? Not a bad price either considering the market nowadays. Congrats! I don't see any vids of it, perhaps you should remedy that situation accordingly!
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
@MarshalZhukov I'll probobly get around to making a video, however i want to shoot it first. I was suprised at the condition of the bore, it looks brand new! It has never been recrowned or counterbored hell all of the bluing on the crown is still there! It looks like this gun was made and then thrown in cosmoline. Btw how do you tell its an ex dragoon?
Zeppelinfaktor 1 year ago
@Zeppelinfaktor One way is if there is writing on the barrel shank in Russian. That's a pretty good indicator. The other way, there will be a gap at the base of the rear sight where the barrel was machined to accept the rear sight assembly. If there is no gap, and the base of the rear sight sits flush with the machined area for the rear sight base, then it is a 91/30. But the year of yours should be an ex-Dragoon.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
When applying the Linseed oil do you apply and let dry completely or do you apply and wipe down excess after a few hours?
strechinpick 1 year ago
@strechinpick Wait a while and keep checking it. If the wood is really dry, then it might soak in pretty fast. If it does that, give it a good wipe down with a dry cloth, and let it soak for a couple hours, and repeat. But on multiple coats, let dry a few hours, and wipe off the excess.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
Does this change the value of the gun at all? I have a 1938 Tula 91/30.
badxradxandy 1 year ago
@badxradxandy On something that's "run of the mill" like a standard 91/30 refurb, no it probably would not. But if you did it to a more collectible rifle, then it most definitely would. I'd say it probably wouldn't hurt anything if you did it to your Tula.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
Comment removed
jrakichbaby 1 year ago
Marshal: why did you use poly on the Mosin instead of traditional shellac? I really enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work.
gruelin1 1 year ago
@gruelin1 I should have used shellac to begin with. But I don't know if the Romanians used shellac? But I also didn't want to deal with any peeling shellac either down the road. I guess over long enough time either finish might chip or peel anyways. I like using boiled linseed oil as I did on my Russian SKS. I'll live with it. It turned out pretty good though at any rate. It will keep the water off it.
MarshalZhukov 1 year ago
@MarshalZhukov well anyway, it was a fine job. Again, thank you for your excellent videos.
gruelin1 1 year ago
Great job man!
MegaGewehr 2 years ago
i commented on this video before, but now i finally have the stuff to refinish my M91/30. what would you recommend to seal the stock? Polyurethane? Polycrylic? Shellac?
SasquatchMan118 2 years ago
@SasquatchMan118 I would recomment spar varnish, its made for outdoor furniture, so it can handle a little more abuse than normal poly
steelcurtain656 2 years ago
im refinishing my mosin nagant M38 stock soon.. and sometime after i want to bed it.. and will refinish the metal later... right now im just looking for stain colors to decide just which color i want to stain the M38
megadeth22885 2 years ago
I like the Sedona Red color on mine. I used it on this Romanian M44, and my SKS. Turned out beautifully with a couple coats of BLO over the stain. If you get to bedding soon, document it. I want to bed one of my MN rifles, and haven't done a bedding job before. The more help the better I guess for a first attempt!
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
yeah, i may go red sedona... im still debading if i want to bed the stock of my M38 carbine, or leave the stock.. stock and maybe make another stock for it... would be cool if i could make a straight comb tactical style stock for playing with, leaving the MN stock in its origional state... though i guess if the russian military wasnt trying to cut costs, bedding probably would have been part of the manufacture process of the nagants, so its just picking up where they left off i guess
megadeth22885 2 years ago
marshal, I'm working on an SKS right now. There if one spot that I just can't get the dirt out. I started with a stripper, washed w/soap/water, stealwool, cooked out the cosmo, repeated, sanded, get get the dirt out of the grip. any tips? also tried min spirits. Thanks I saw u had an SKS going, and I haven't doon 1 since summer so...here we go!
bulkfull 2 years ago
I checked your vid. The stock looked good. I put a stripper on it 3 times, 4 mineral spirits baths, sanding, wet t-shirt and iron for probably a half hour anyways, then more sanding. The wet t-shirt and iron with a steam setting helped raise a few shallow dents, and brought some more gunk to the surface that sanded off too. If it won't come out with all you have done, you might have to live with it. 55 yr old cosmo in a stock is kinda stubborn. I didn't want to dry it out with min. spirits more.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
@MarshalZhukov all very complicated-im lookin to refinish a chinese airgun with a crappy orange lookin finish!can u give me 4 basic steps?im not workin with a b.a.r,just a 30 dollar pistol in .177?
frog45678 2 years ago
Paint stripper is what I use to strip stocks. Then I use alcohol and talcum powder to get any remaining oil (usually at the grip). But if heavily oil soaked I wash with soap and hot water and/or place above the fireplace to heat it out. That's all done for uniformity. Then I apply numerous coats of varathane (submerge it in a bucket if available) and hang to dry overnight. Then I use fine sand paper (no less than 320) and whatever oil I choose to finish it.
shmoab 2 years ago
You finish it by using your index and middle finger and sandpaper, dipping them in oil and going in a circular motion over the stock. That way you build up a mud of oil and wood particles to fill in the grain. Going with the grain won't fill in the grain. If you want to be lazy about it, sometimes I do with free work, go across the grain.
I have a degree from Colorado School of Trades (in case you're wondering).
shmoab 2 years ago
i have an M91/30 that id like to refinish. Would i have to use a stripper to remove the shellac or whatever finish it is?
SasquatchMan118 2 years ago
You could use Dawn Power Dissolver I hear that works pretty well. I didn't have any shellac to get rid of on the Romanian M44 I refinished. I just sanded off all of the old finish. So if that doesn't work, and mineral spirits doesn't work, and depending on how comprehensive your refinish will be, sanding might be your best bet if you want to take it down to bare wood. The ironing trick will help get those dents out. Then follow up with finer and finer grit until you stain. Will you be staining?
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
yes i will. im planning on something redddish
SasquatchMan118 2 years ago
Well, I'm sure I mentioned in the vid somewhere, or wrote it that I used the Sedona Red #222 finish from Minwax. Turned out ok. I just picked up a Russian SKS that has seen better days. I think I will try to restore it to its former glory. I would like to try the same Minwax finish on the stock but follow it up with some BLO instead of a clear coat. I think that will accent the grain as well.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
NIce job! I have an M1944 myself.
What is the best product for a really deep glossy finish like you see on a good acoustic guitar?
TechMaven 2 years ago
thought the blueing looked fresh...
the romy now has a very russian look now...
good job...nice magic tricks.lol
StereoSoundAgent1 2 years ago
You must be from the 7.62x54R forum. You can find me there under the handle: Iron_Colonel.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
oh..lol. yeah thats me.
good to know... im in the process of watching all the vids.
Good Vids!
: )
StereoSoundAgent1 2 years ago
Hi I was wondering if you would be able to do a disassembeling video of the m95. I noticed that there is nothing on here or on the internet about this rifle. Please Please do a review on the m95 as well! Thank you!
yukka88 2 years ago
I think that can be arranged. Unfortunately I haven't got any time for it tonight, but this weekend, possibly Friday night, definitely.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
very nice job on that roma m44. looks like an arsenal refurb!!
Simonov5966 2 years ago
Thanks! The stock on it when I bought it was terrible! It sure does look a lot better. That Steyr M95 needed a stock refinish too, it was very bad.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
"Wa La! Amazing magic... It just.. Appears there." lmfao haha
lizardloverboy 2 years ago
thanks for the great idea on using an iron on steem setting and a wet T-shirt to help raise the wood grain to remove fine stracthes! I take it you do this after sanding? just so I'm clear its 120 grit to start, then 220, 500, then 600 grit to finish? The stain you used was boild limeseed oil? I have an old 1918 British .303cal MKIII. that I really want to finish the stock and reblue the barell, etc. as well I have a CIL 171, .22lr, (remake of the Rem. 500), that I want to do the same too.
Nwest82 2 years ago
I did this after I did the initial sanding. After it dries out from the wet shirt and iron, then the following grits will smooth out the stock. I used boiled linseed oil on the M95. I would recommend refinishing the stock on your .22 LR before doing anything to that Enfield. It may hold its value more left in its original stock. An Enfield that old holds a lot of history in that stock.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
Lot of good information.
svillethomas 2 years ago
Thanks. Just trying to let people know some different options if they decide to do some refinishing of their own.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
nice job buddy looks good. let me know what you think of mine.
bulkfull 2 years ago
I mixed some paraffin wax and BLO in a double boiler to make a paste and hand rubbed it on, let it dry, and buffed it. It made my Yugo Mauser look great, except the right side of my stock is darker than the left for some reason.
Sanding didn't seem to lighten it any and neither did stripper, any idea why?
Goodspittin 2 years ago
It could be possible there is a stain in there that has soaked in to the grain. Try steaming it out with an iron and steam setting and wet Tshirt, or mineral spirits, or any other kind of stripping agent found at hardware stores. But if you stripped it all off, then it would probably ruin the finish you just put on it, and would have to do it over again.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
But on just one side?
Goodspittin 2 years ago
Possible. It could have come that way from the factory, or else someone tried to refinish it and messed it up.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
Unissued. Probably factory or storage blemish
Goodspittin 2 years ago
Yea, sounds like you're on to something now. Pics could help too.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
Just posted a short vid.
Goodspittin 2 years ago
Can you do a range with the M95? Just wondering how well it will do accuracy wise with the worn barrel?
Ocyris4 2 years ago
The barrel in that M95 in this video is shot out. There is no hope for it. I suppose some large bullets may find the worn riflings, but I think it is going to be a wall hanging rifle anyways. I think it would look good on the wall. My other M95 doesn't group too badly, but it shoots incredibly high.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
To remove the crossbolt on my nagant I use one of those crapy gun lock keys that came with the rifle and modified it with a dremal and file to fit the holes and it only too about 5 mins. "for your health"
Ocyris4 2 years ago
That sounds like it would work pretty well.
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
nice I used the sedona red on a Mos. Nag. 91/30 w'a blo top! $100 rifle. $300 dollar finish
bulkfull 2 years ago
lol @ supertramp in the background
TheOtherVenkman 2 years ago
That is a good question. If it looks like an original, the same could be had. I refinished my M95 because the barrel was just absolutely shot out of it. The Romanian M44 I thought was a Izhevsk Russian M44. The arsenal stamps are similar, but discernable. I stay away from the M91 restoration myself, or the more rare models. I would also suggest that to anyone else, if you have a more rare model, don't mess with it. That is how value is lost. Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching :D
MarshalZhukov 2 years ago
Thanks for the great Vids Marshal. Question; does refinishing and re bluing destroy the value of it being an "Antique" ? Granted with 50 Mil 1891/30's or whatever, there isn't much 'value' but i'm curious how the MN market reacts to restoration.
Thanks for all your work
edj1963 2 years ago
Don't refinish and reblue an M91. It's not going to help the rifle any and you'd be destroying its value a LOT.
TheOtherVenkman 2 years ago
5 stars !!
amwdc21 2 years ago