@suzukimark Roger Sanders sells an eBook that has complete plans for the heater plus a lot of other useful tips and tricks. Do a Google search for his name and waste oil heater, you'll find it right away.
@dispatcher7007 It's not as bad one might think, it's a little worse when the heater is first lit, after it warms up it burns pretty clean. I made another video showing the chimney from outside the building, Checkout my channel for Drip Feed Waste Oil Heater Smoke Test.
@memadmax69 It gets toasty, if you crank it up it will glow red hot about 8 to 10 inches above and below the burner. Because it's a radiant heater it puts off a warm fuzzy kind of heat that is very pleasant, although it does take sometime to bring a space up to a comfortable temp.
Dude your retarded. All fuel oils and waste oils (diesel, kerosene, filtered waste oils, hydolic oil, transmission fluids, non-waste oil, ect) all are non combustible liquid fuels. And put out over 75% less carbon emmisions then wood, coal,(which I'm Proud to say I burn both in my wood/coal stove and getting ready to add a #1-#2 fuel oil stove which is diesel and kerosene) and natural gas,
This comment has received too many negative votesshow
fire hazard, polluting pos. thanks, asshole. my taxes will pay the FD that has to save ur ass when it all burns on u. Thanks for polluting the air my kids breath, prick.
Do you know the angle of the reverse cone in the burner plate?? I've got some aluminum. I've got a lathe. Would cast iron be better for the cone burner?
It's cold here and I've got an old water heater. Need to make fire....
If operating a waste oil furnace illegally, the money you anticipate in energy savings can be quickly lost. Burning waste oil that contains hazardous heavy metals or other pollutants also negates any environmentally-friendly and energy-efficient benefits offered by the furnace.
I have found that preheating the burner with a propane weed burner really gets the draft going with the door open and I can start with WMO instead of heating oil. My WMO drips from four feet above the burner area through a 3/4" copper tube. There can be no flashback since there isn't enough heat or oxygen in the tube. good vid.
I need to know how the fire and exhaust does not shoot out the intake and alternatively goes out the flue. According to some designs (yours as well I think) the intake cone rest down on the burner separated by a few inches and is supposed to drawn air down onto the burner and allow fire up the sides of the stove and out the flue. What keeps the fire in?
@torr58 Correct me if this is wrong, but the way I understand it, Fire needs Air to burn and when the fire is started at the burner it sucks the air in from the closest place, which is from the fresh air pipe positioned right above it (intake). The fire and the smoke can't go up the intake because the air is being sucked in, so the smoke goes out the flu. As far as fire going out the flu the fire never gets that big, because the fuel is metered to be just enough for the burner area.
very nice... i gave up on mine. had issues with back-drafts on windy days. i was even using a 3" chimney. i think it was placement on roof in wrong spot? (where chimney cap was) and too many air intakes, i kept adjusting them thinking it would stop the back-drafts. almost passed-out a couple times. i will build something like yours if i do it again. straight chimney is the way to go! i even had a fish pump for fuel, diesel engine used oil seemed to burn best for me.
How well does it work compared to the original mother earth heater? I'm building one but I don't see how this design can work well compared to the original with the air preheated and the burner plates that has a secondary burner built in. When I read the blurb for the conical design and that it burns cleanly by not burning completely I shook my head and laughed. Does it work well and burn all it's own smoke and soot?
@alaskanalain I've never seen a non-modified Mother Earth News Waste Oil Heater (The original design on their web site) so I can't really speak to the difference. I have always assumed from reading Roger Sanders articles and other sites on the internet that the "Modified" heaters burned cleaner and more efficiently. From my experience building and operating the heater in this video, vaporization (drip feed) heaters produce a lot of soot and smoke. Check atomization (babington) heaters.
I'm making one of these, my other thing I am doing is a rainwater capture system, perhaps installed in the attic to provide natural water pressure. The city just catches rainwater and sells it to you, then they give it to cops to harass you and take more money. Contrary to popular belief, rainwater is 100 % better than city. My tests showed 1 part per million contaminants in rain gutter water, compared to 350 ppm on city water, and 170ppm filtered fridge water.
@thierryanna A butane bottle should work fine, I look forward to hearing how the project is progressing. If I can offer any suggestions let me know :)
@thierryanna It's about 5.5 inches between the burner plate and the bottom of the air intake pipe. The air intake pipe is 4", you need to look for a 40 gallon tall, gas powered water heater, some of them have 3" flues and some have 4". The four inch ones are known as high capacity models. Finding one of these will save you lots of time cutting and modifying since the pipe is already the right size. For the oil feed line I used a piece of 1/8" steel brake line from the local auto parts store.
I made one very simaler almost the same as this, Looks good.. have you done any updates since your vidoe ? Im going to start on myne agin i quit working on it for a few .
@dpdevil1 I made this one for a friend so I haven't done anything else to it once it was finished. It was a fun project perhaps at some point I will build another one. I'd like to try a forced air type with a Babington waste oil burner..
@povchrisw Bought it from a guy named Roger Sanders for $50.00, he sells the valves and the aluminum conical burners by mail order, PM me if you want his email or just do a Google search.
It's a super simple design and it works great. No worries about the oil in the bottom of the heater. I took a screwdriver and wiped it across the top of the burner to get the ash from the paper towel out of the oil pool after it was started and some oil spilled . The only place hot enough to ignite the oil is on the burner. It's very safe.
nice job
MrCraz6r 2 weeks ago
i would realy like to make one of these,,,where can i get a set of plans.....chears
suzukimark 3 weeks ago
@suzukimark Roger Sanders sells an eBook that has complete plans for the heater plus a lot of other useful tips and tricks. Do a Google search for his name and waste oil heater, you'll find it right away.
jahzoone 3 weeks ago
could you show the exhaust? I guess you've got quite a dirty combustion going on there!
dispatcher7007 4 weeks ago
@dispatcher7007 It's not as bad one might think, it's a little worse when the heater is first lit, after it warms up it burns pretty clean. I made another video showing the chimney from outside the building, Checkout my channel for Drip Feed Waste Oil Heater Smoke Test.
jahzoone 4 weeks ago
Nice, how warm does she get?
Warm enough to get some steam going?
memadmax69 1 month ago
@memadmax69 It gets toasty, if you crank it up it will glow red hot about 8 to 10 inches above and below the burner. Because it's a radiant heater it puts off a warm fuzzy kind of heat that is very pleasant, although it does take sometime to bring a space up to a comfortable temp.
jahzoone 1 month ago
@breakfastbentobox.
Dude your retarded. All fuel oils and waste oils (diesel, kerosene, filtered waste oils, hydolic oil, transmission fluids, non-waste oil, ect) all are non combustible liquid fuels. And put out over 75% less carbon emmisions then wood, coal,(which I'm Proud to say I burn both in my wood/coal stove and getting ready to add a #1-#2 fuel oil stove which is diesel and kerosene) and natural gas,
IMElia87 2 months ago
@breakfastbentobox
IMElia87 2 months ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
fire hazard, polluting pos. thanks, asshole. my taxes will pay the FD that has to save ur ass when it all burns on u. Thanks for polluting the air my kids breath, prick.
BreakfastBentoBox 2 months ago
@BreakfastBentoBox "Thanks for polluting the air my kids breath, prick." [sic]
sitting at a computer, in a house that probably has both heating and air con, and complaining about pollution... priceless... thanks for that!!!
frackcha 1 month ago
Do you know the angle of the reverse cone in the burner plate?? I've got some aluminum. I've got a lathe. Would cast iron be better for the cone burner?
It's cold here and I've got an old water heater. Need to make fire....
trailbusterbrute 3 months ago
@trailbusterbrute Wait a minute. I found it. It's a 15 degree inverse cone.
trailbusterbrute 3 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
If operating a waste oil furnace illegally, the money you anticipate in energy savings can be quickly lost. Burning waste oil that contains hazardous heavy metals or other pollutants also negates any environmentally-friendly and energy-efficient benefits offered by the furnace.
mikeusername1 3 months ago
Where did you get the drip valve with the site glass?
ding0925 3 months ago
@ding0925 I'll answer this one. I found one at Grainger for $37, part number 1U795.
trailbusterbrute 3 months ago
@ding0925 Google: Sight Feed Needle Valve, note they are pricey.
kf4awu 2 weeks ago
I have found that preheating the burner with a propane weed burner really gets the draft going with the door open and I can start with WMO instead of heating oil. My WMO drips from four feet above the burner area through a 3/4" copper tube. There can be no flashback since there isn't enough heat or oxygen in the tube. good vid.
lumberjak5010 3 months ago
I need to know how the fire and exhaust does not shoot out the intake and alternatively goes out the flue. According to some designs (yours as well I think) the intake cone rest down on the burner separated by a few inches and is supposed to drawn air down onto the burner and allow fire up the sides of the stove and out the flue. What keeps the fire in?
torr58 3 months ago
@torr58 Correct me if this is wrong, but the way I understand it, Fire needs Air to burn and when the fire is started at the burner it sucks the air in from the closest place, which is from the fresh air pipe positioned right above it (intake). The fire and the smoke can't go up the intake because the air is being sucked in, so the smoke goes out the flu. As far as fire going out the flu the fire never gets that big, because the fuel is metered to be just enough for the burner area.
jahzoone 3 months ago
@thierryanna hi just wondering did u build your burner
JackMurphyMallow 4 months ago
@JackMurphyMallow No I bought the conical burner from Roger Sanders, it was around $50.
jahzoone 4 months ago
very nice... i gave up on mine. had issues with back-drafts on windy days. i was even using a 3" chimney. i think it was placement on roof in wrong spot? (where chimney cap was) and too many air intakes, i kept adjusting them thinking it would stop the back-drafts. almost passed-out a couple times. i will build something like yours if i do it again. straight chimney is the way to go! i even had a fish pump for fuel, diesel engine used oil seemed to burn best for me.
Somedood200 8 months ago
How well does it work compared to the original mother earth heater? I'm building one but I don't see how this design can work well compared to the original with the air preheated and the burner plates that has a secondary burner built in. When I read the blurb for the conical design and that it burns cleanly by not burning completely I shook my head and laughed. Does it work well and burn all it's own smoke and soot?
alaskanalain 8 months ago
@alaskanalain I've never seen a non-modified Mother Earth News Waste Oil Heater (The original design on their web site) so I can't really speak to the difference. I have always assumed from reading Roger Sanders articles and other sites on the internet that the "Modified" heaters burned cleaner and more efficiently. From my experience building and operating the heater in this video, vaporization (drip feed) heaters produce a lot of soot and smoke. Check atomization (babington) heaters.
jahzoone 8 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Hi take a look at my homemade waste oil burner it is easy to fire.
youtube.com/watch?v=2bKNpb6-FOU
this is prototyp 1 and it have some smoke but i have made prototyp 3 now and it is very clean.
perjan6666 9 months ago
hi, how many liters per hour ?
xrt3xrt3 11 months ago
@xrt3xrt3 On high it burns 5 to 6 liters an hour.
jahzoone 11 months ago
I'm making one of these, my other thing I am doing is a rainwater capture system, perhaps installed in the attic to provide natural water pressure. The city just catches rainwater and sells it to you, then they give it to cops to harass you and take more money. Contrary to popular belief, rainwater is 100 % better than city. My tests showed 1 part per million contaminants in rain gutter water, compared to 350 ppm on city water, and 170ppm filtered fridge water.
AJollyGoodFelon 11 months ago
@thierryanna A butane bottle should work fine, I look forward to hearing how the project is progressing. If I can offer any suggestions let me know :)
jahzoone 1 year ago
@thierryanna It's about 5.5 inches between the burner plate and the bottom of the air intake pipe. The air intake pipe is 4", you need to look for a 40 gallon tall, gas powered water heater, some of them have 3" flues and some have 4". The four inch ones are known as high capacity models. Finding one of these will save you lots of time cutting and modifying since the pipe is already the right size. For the oil feed line I used a piece of 1/8" steel brake line from the local auto parts store.
jahzoone 1 year ago
I made one very simaler almost the same as this, Looks good.. have you done any updates since your vidoe ? Im going to start on myne agin i quit working on it for a few .
dpdevil1 1 year ago
@dpdevil1 I made this one for a friend so I haven't done anything else to it once it was finished. It was a fun project perhaps at some point I will build another one. I'd like to try a forced air type with a Babington waste oil burner..
jahzoone 1 year ago
do after nine drops of oil, the tenth drop - water and dirt will be removed
izzzya 1 year ago
where did you get that valve?.. looks good.. best design iv seen yet
povchrisw 1 year ago
@povchrisw Bought it from a guy named Roger Sanders for $50.00, he sells the valves and the aluminum conical burners by mail order, PM me if you want his email or just do a Google search.
jahzoone 1 year ago
@jahzoone I'd appreciate Roger's E-mail address.
I'm wanting to build on of these heaters using a 24" sch 40 pipe.
I would need the valve and conical plate and am maybe the filter also.
Thanks!
vettepiper 1 year ago
@vettepiper I sent you a PM with the email.
jahzoone 1 year ago
Looks easy to do, notice some oil dipping below burner, could get explosive if not cleaned.
freepress666 2 years ago
It's a super simple design and it works great. No worries about the oil in the bottom of the heater. I took a screwdriver and wiped it across the top of the burner to get the ash from the paper towel out of the oil pool after it was started and some oil spilled . The only place hot enough to ignite the oil is on the burner. It's very safe.
jahzoone 2 years ago