Mike - This is good for getting the blade PARALLEL to the table, but I would say it's not sufficient for ensuring it's PERPENDICULAR. As I have written elsewhere, at present I am attempting the latter. Would you say aligning with a machinist's square suffices, or is there a cut-check-cut process that is more appropriate to a device that exists, after all, for cutting rather than for kissing up to squares? Thanks!
For checking the squareness of the blade, and this applies to ANY saw, it is always better to check the actual cut, and not just use a square against the blade.
For the JMP we use 1/8" masonite or baltic birch ply. Set the blade at the steepest pitch possible. Put the masonite on edge against the fence and make a test cut. Check the cut with your square. After you have determined square, be sure to put one of the Finger Stops at this setting.
Mike - This is good for getting the blade PARALLEL to the table, but I would say it's not sufficient for ensuring it's PERPENDICULAR. As I have written elsewhere, at present I am attempting the latter. Would you say aligning with a machinist's square suffices, or is there a cut-check-cut process that is more appropriate to a device that exists, after all, for cutting rather than for kissing up to squares? Thanks!
AlaskaRangerBorealis 1 year ago
@AlaskaRangerBorealis
For checking the squareness of the blade, and this applies to ANY saw, it is always better to check the actual cut, and not just use a square against the blade.
For the JMP we use 1/8" masonite or baltic birch ply. Set the blade at the steepest pitch possible. Put the masonite on edge against the fence and make a test cut. Check the cut with your square. After you have determined square, be sure to put one of the Finger Stops at this setting.
BridgeCityMike 1 year ago
Is this the second generation jmp?
GriffndorK 2 years ago
This JMP used in this video is from the first production run. The grey versions that are shown in other videos are the original prototype.
BridgeCityMike 2 years ago