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From: patagoniavideo
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  • 9:10 for Epic Bon Sai Roar

  • Comment removed

  • This maight be a stupid question, but how are they recording him?

  • That is not a reason to don`t climb

  • i dont do climbing it seems like they just place the safety pins in are they guarenteed to hold a persons weight ?

  • how long is the rope?

    

  • thumbs up if you hate walking up hill

  • anyone know the song in the beginning

  • my hands and feet are just sweating from watching this

    

  • I do believe my hands just sweated about a gallon of water watching this.

  • What is that tape he uses for his fingers, what is it used for and where can you get it from?? Thanks

  • @TeeDotOwe That is climbing tape, it is used to stop your fingers from ripping to shreds on the rock (especially when doing fingers jams etc) and most climbing walls sell it, or online of course.

  • @996o0o966

    Thanks a lot. So it isnt really necessary for climbing indoors?

  • @TeeDotOwe nah it is used indoors, you can still rip the skin up on normal holds - you can wrap it around the blisters/holes to stop it getting worse etc

  • That guys forearms are like a chimpanzee. (no homo)

  • Didier Berthod is better

    

  • @DadyDollaz19 Not even...He has nowhere NEAR the finesse of Trotter.

  • congratulations

    it's amazing!!!

  • ...after figuring out the moves on top rope

  • Great film Paul... congratulations!!!... enjoyed it muchisimo...

  • goddamn, is that beautiful to watch

  • What's free accent mean?

  • @JFM94

    ground up, no falls, no takes. the gear is only there to protect in event of a fall; he doesn't rely upon it to assist his way to the top.

    e.g, were the gear hypothetically not to be placed (no rope, no cams), he'd live to tell the tale at the top

  • @fnarces pro

  • Boss.

  • AmaZing. Woohoo. Great job.

  • I read about this in the Toronto Star.

  • he looks like CR7

  • Oh my god I have actually broke my mouse from sweating hands so hard.

  • He's a great climber ol' Rodney isn't he? lol

  • sick dog

  • i'd totally do this sport but it's expensive and i don't know anyone that does it. and i live in a city no where near big rocks and my parents got no money and i have no car to get to a big rock and i have to take care of my little siblings cuz my parents work and my dad's not around. ... but it looks like fun

  • @tryandlike

    it's not that expensive you should look into a climbing gym around ur place... best way to start :)

  • @tryandlike if youre still in school and your school has a woodshop, cut some blocks of different shapes and depths and bolt it to your walls and ceiling.

  • @1138thz This wasnt a ground up first ascent, which seems to be what you are talking about. He did plenty of hang dogging, plenty of tensioning, and probably used plenty of pre-placed pro. He probably did it as an aid route as well.  He had practiced so much, definitely using hang dogging and possibly on top rope, so that he could do it in this manner.

    On this ascent he did it without tension and hang dogging because otherwise it wouldnt be a free ascent. Thats the whole point.

  • 32 people are afraid of cobras

  • I admire guys like Sonnie Trotter, from the ground up, no tension, hang dogging, or pre-placed pro just a perfectly executed free ascent. What he did there is a mixed aid and free climb for about 99.9% of the climbing community...hats off gentlemen. Although some are amazing, I cant say I admire sport climbers that prep their lines with pre-placed pro, rap bolting ect as much as extreme trad climbers. I of course admire their skill but the risk and commitment just isn't the same.

  • Respect. Placing pros on the way up. Hard core.

    He get pretty high above his two twin friends once he got that right hand placed properly.

  • Could someone explain me this technical question..if this is a FIRST ascent means that someone put, before this video, the nails on the wall where climbers hook the quickdraws . So, first: is it correct that there are the nails(it seems to me from the video)? Second: how are these nails installed, maybe descending from the top with a rope? Thanks.

  • @dayed84 the nails are, like u said installed from the top, u do abseil and they are installed with beton (I dont know m my english isnt that goo -,-

  • @dayed84 the nails are, like u said installed from the top, u do abseil and they are installed with beton (I dont know m my english isnt that good -,-) hope i helped

  • I wish he still had a rc.com account

  • It's not fair! Nobody mentions Didiers Berthod!

    He was there too, and almost made it for the first, but an injury made him to stop trying.

    Thumbs up for Didiers!!!!!

  • @RonaiHenrik listen again... 

  • @RonaiHenrik but live inst fair

  • @RonaiHe yeah Sonnie actualy mentions him at 1:40. But yeah it seems liek Didier just wanted it so bad.

  • @markus122piesuckers I meant to say that no-one actually says that he made it almost. He was "just a friend there".

  • @RonaiHenrik the one who does it gets the credit, not the one who almost did it. I think Didier get enough attention in the First Ascent. Time for Sonnie to have some love.

  • This is called lead or trad (traditional) climbing in england and it is the best way to climb imo. so before you start saying 'thats not free climbing, you've got gear.' Try it and see how you feel.

  • thumbs up if your hands started sweating for him ^_^

  • Nay cumberlands will fit in that crack ; )

  • Check out my helmet Camera footage from climbing Mount Stephen in Canada. Pretty crazy footage.... 2km of air on one side 1km on the other side.

  • Check out the Climbing story video directed by Brady Trettenero

  • Really enjoyed this, gratz & ty for sharing

  • At 05:47 why is he using two wuickdraws so close to each other? Any one who knows why?

  • @klawida Because if the protection is small, or in a place where you aren't sure it will hold, or you are about to run it out like he did and go way above your last protection, then you want to put in as much as you can in case a piece fails. If he just put in one cam and took a huge fall on it and it failed, it would have turned into an epic fall. I mean I guess.

  • @klawida for safety, because thats the crux

  • @klawida if he falls from the first he is falling vertically and he will slide down the rock if he falls on the second he falls and doesnt hit the wall

  • All my congratulation fron Italy

  • Power!!!

  • he brave as a mofo

  • Should see the other part of the history on "First Ascent" movie

  • Amazing! Just started climbing last summer! Love it! :D

  • AMAZING I just bought the video for my friend and I'm stocked for when she sees it and I see with her. I really enjoy this climb, because you can see the motion of the climbers body and how he goes about climbing the route. It makes me feel like I'm there watching this kid climb!!!!!! Which motivates me more about trad climbing. I started lead climbing and that is intense but trad is another complete thing and this is awesome and makes me want to do it!!!!!!!!!!!!! :) love it!

  • how did they film this...

  • @joecrzy199 the cameraman/woman would have rappelled from the top

  • How does he record this

  • I love your passion I do not know the first thing about climbing but I know something beautiful when I see it and I know someone with heart when I see it and the combination is priceless

  • GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO SONNIE!!!!!!!

  • that looks delicious

  • fucking cool.

  • how much ft high

  • Cool stuff!

  • Comment removed

  • mmmmm cobra crack 8c/c+

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  • Is that that big granite rock you drive by to get to Squamish?

  • 5.14 on trad?!?! much respect, way more impressive than seeing sharma climbing 5.15 sport

  • Ich würde mir in die Hose pissen wenn beim Fallen mein Leben nur an den zwei Friends hängt.

  • thank you patagonia video ive been dying to see this ascent

  • Dear crack climbers. I have a mental gremlin regarding cracks. if you twist your fingers into a hold, and lock them inplace, and then your foot slipps, does it ever happen you fingers get broken? what if your fingers slip. doesn't your foot remain stuck if ou have twisted it in there?

  • @uthikoloshe Well the general rule is: if it's locked in place , whatever part of your body locked in stays there until it either unlocks or, if not strong enough, detatches. It might go snap, it might not... depends on your level of skill, the nature of the rock and about 100 other factors:)

  • Climbing looks like a dangerous fucking hobby.

    RIP Guy Edwards

  • @Shukria123 This is advanced people doing lead climbing on a difficult route. Us beginners take it a tad bit easier :P .

  • great. now i can't on sight it... stupid video... oh well :-)

  • Dear Sonnie Trotter, marry me?

  • gr8!!!

  • Awesome work! I completed my first 5.10 crack today and had to hang dog it, you are simply amazing!

  • @sdmbaddict what does 5.10 crack means anywaY?..

  • that was awesome man

  • Now I want to see him climb back down, without repeling! : )

  • Fuck sea shepherd

    don't kill Kangaroo

  • how is this route rated?

  • Rad trad! 5.14 without having a fixed route (bolted) is real climbing.

  • good job...... master!!!!!!!!

  • good job........ master!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • baithead...i'll be doing that soon ;)

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  • niggas lats are super ripped!!

  • I'm not a climber but even my fingers were sweating just watching this... respect

  • 9:11 Nice freakin grab dude!

  • outstanding congrats

  • is this on the trail to the top of the chief ? how can I get to it ?

  • Trotter for president! hehe super climbing!

  • Great movie !

    I hope one day i could climb at Squamish !

  • yeah this was on first ascent,i think didier barthod would have done it first had it not been for a knee injury,he looked solid all the way till that happend

  • a++++

  • You're getting confused between free climbing and soloing. Free climbing implies not using gear to help you climb, ie. not aid climbing. Soloing implies not using gear at all.

  • @planteh NO, soloing implies no-one belaying you, FREEsoloing means no gear, no belayer

  • @redsolarearth1 @redsolarearth1 No. You are wrong.

    FREE CLIMBING. Progressing up a route by using your body rather than the gear.

    SOLO. To climb without ropes. High-risk; carries the near-certainty of decking out if you mess things up.

    From UKC.

  • @planteh I know what free climbing is. I free climb in Yosemite. You can aid solo as well as free solo.

  • @redsolarearth1 The difference is that in FREE climbing, the gear is for safety, not for help (as in AID climbing), whereas in SOLOING there is no gear.

  • @planteh NO, you are wrong, there is a video of dean Potter AID SOLOING the famous route on El Capitan, "the Nose". Search for "solo the nose el capitan" on youtube and it will pop right up. The reason people say "free solo" is to distinguish it from AID solo.

  • @planteh Nonooo. aid climbing is not the same as free climbing...

  • Comment removed

  • @Snorri520 Yeah, that's what I said. They are opposites, in fact. l2r?

  • @planteh ...not exactly, free means un-aided (ie no pulling on gear). Soloing means climbing alone, no partner, you use aid or free technique and gear though. Free-solo is shoes, chalk and or tape, thats all.

  • @planteh I think we know the difference, but still is pretty cool.

  • I was under the impression that a free ascent would be without a rope. Am I missing something here? Or is it maybe just not included in this video. I mean the video is title "first free ascent", so I was excepting to see him climbing without gear. Could someone clear this up for me?

  • when doing a free accent you do use a rope but it is only there for saftey reasons. For it to be a true free climb you cannot put any weight on the rope. if you fall or your weight is taken on the rope it is no longer a free accent. a free solo is climbing without a rope.

  • Thanks for clearing that up. I've never heard the term used in that way before.

  • Yeah..with out the gear its solo, not free ascent

  • without rope is called free solo. free ascent is climbing without the use of aid and without putting load on the rope. basically the rope is only there for safety...not help.

  • free ascent means: lead-climbing the whole route without resting on the rope, that is, as if there was no rope.

    Free solo is when you climb a route without any gear. "free" has different meanings in the two cases...

  • Thanks for the info guys. I get it now.

  • okay so how does he get down now. i mean he could untie his rope walk down and around pull the rope threw but then all his cams are in the wall. or he could slowly climb back down collecting his cams on the way down which doesnt look like he could climb down it, or he could " Fall " down from cam to cam grabbing the rock long enough just to release his cams, but this is fkn stupid if you ask me. maybe does he do the climb again in top rope collecting his cams as he goes back to the top?

  • What puzzles me is that you seem to understand climbing terminology, but not the basic mechanics of climbing. You rapell. You see that anchor he clipped into? You thread the rope though that and rapell down, collecting your gear as you go. I guess you've only top-roped maybe?

  • Lowered on top rope or rappel

  • Comment removed

  • Totally amazing. I want to be like him!!

  • incredible, i bet he slept well that night, great footwork

  • yeh after the beers eh. lol :)

  • grats man, i hope to climb that some day.

  • and btw he is not the first who climbed the cobra :S its all lie :@:@

  • but he was the first free ascent ;)

  • i watch the film fisrs ascent its very grat film and i think all people who love this sport should watch it ;)

  • great video.

  • he's inspirational and a pure rolemodel.

    damn I want to be like him, he seems so happy and satisfied.

  • awsome video, jst wish there was a shot of the route from the front so you could see how good it looked. nice 1!

  • super video, professional shooting, suреr people!!!

    bravo!!!

  • what a manky finger crack

  • I was wondering how the safety works in this vid. He puts in the 'plugs' really loose imo. Do the plugs work that good that they easily support your whole body weight when you fall down?

    Thanks!

  • The "plugs" that he is using are Black Diamand C4 Cams. Black Diamond is the brand, "C4" is the model, and "cam" is short for "Spring Loaded Camming Device," or SLCD. You should look up "SLCD" on wikipedia or something to get a better idea about how they work. Pretty cool.

  • He's using CCH Aliens, not C4's.

  • Ah yeah, good eye. I just saw his one purple C4 .5 and assumed he was all bd. I watched again and saw some metolious, aliens, bd, a little of everything i guess.

  • He uses cams- they are VERY good, more you pull on them, more force it puts onto the sides of the crack it is in, they are on a spring, pulling the spring pulls the cam wedges back, releasing it lets them spring out.

  • this is a great film,

    naration, film and best of all the climb itself, all top stuff,

    love it,

  • I see a crack.. He sees beauty

    I wanna see it how he does :/

  • Sonny, I don't know you but thanks for the new perspective. All that work goes much much farther than is immediately apparent if there are more like me who watch this and change their minds.

  • I realise this might be a stupid question but as i've only ever climbed indoors its not a term i've come across before.

    How do you solo rope climb?

  • I'm not sure, but it might mean using a self belay. if you throw down a single rope from a top anchor and anchor it onto something below you, you can use a shunt to basically top rope without a partner.

    this is just a guess though.

  • Was kinda what I thought. Thanks dude

  • Use a silent partner device or an adapted gri-gri to grab the rope when you fall.

  • Ok thanks

  • Comment removed

  • This is a great video. I was captivated the entire time, fingers sweating and all. The intent to climb that crack is monstrous. I can just feel what it feels like to attempt such a climb. What a feat!

  • Ahh, the pain... does anyone know the rating?

  • Its a 5.14

  • I really wish people would stop talking about frigging dan osman. Yeah he was good and he was mad, he died in a totally stupid way. His death defies common sense why would you jump on three week old gear???????? He was not the best climber ever!!!

  • Lol! My brother was just saying the same thing to me!

  • i just read a lot of trash

  • Osman is head and shoulders above the rest. Period. That is clear if you watch him move on the rock. He was too fearless though.

  • He moved smoothly on the rock because he was not climbing the hardest routes in the world.

    Its one thing to run up a 5.8 or whatever it was and another to have the skill and strength to free a 5.14 which he never had

  • Don......you don't climb do you...

    5.14 is right up there mate, especially on gear.

  • Im talking to all these idiots who keep banging on about 'The great Dan Osman' saying he is the best ever.

    Tell me, what was the hardest route he ever climbed?

  • I was replying to a comment proclaiming that Dan Osman is/was the greatest climber the world has ever seen,

    Obviously Sonny is awsome if that's who you thought i was writing about

  • cobra crack - has to be one of my favorite routes. beautiful back story to it; how didier berthod's attempts ceased, without notice, because of an injury that would set him back long enough for trotter to clean sweep.

    the beauty is reflected in the way didier is humbled by his injury, stating it might have been an angel, pushing him down, teaching him a lesson about worldly obsession. to overcome his self centered passion to be the first.

    great climb. great dude.

  • shaddddap

  • wow

    it takes guts to do a climb like that dude

  • absolutely brilliant mate. You certainly are one strong man, great style and yes what a route. Technically superb and awe inspiring. Cant find enough to say , Excellent makes me wanna climb again!

  • great video! inspiring climb