I dont claim to be an imbecile, but I have no clue to what you are doing. I want to efficently melt gold and alluminum. So how many dollars did it take to melt a socket and what are you going to make with it that you cant buy cheaper?
hey i would like to build one for my emtec class what kind of power sorce do you use and do you know of anny good web sites with helpfull information on building this type of induction heating
next time you should heat the crucible up first in the oven to 250 for 30 minutes to drive off moisture, and insulate the cruiclbe so it heats up evenly from the steel, dont hurry it.
No safety practice at all in this workshop. The author was breaking the mold with his bare fingers millimeters away from the molten metal ! and used a PVC grip wire-stripper or crimper to hold the white hot metal ! That's very un-professional. Should excercise safety to avoid losing a finger or so, believe me.
I agree - utterly brainless - this reminds me of friends of mine who used to hold large fire crackers in their hands believing that fuses always burn at the same rate - then oneday they get a fast burning fuse - opps too late - they now have a non functioning finger - haven't seen an eye or finger damaged with molten metal, but I bet it looks ugly - and it's NOT going to be like a spark from a fire - even water won't cool it too quickly
Yes, when molten metal comes into contact with the skin, it continues to burn you until either it is no longer in contact with your skin, or it has been cooled to a certain temperature... not pretty, not pretty at all.
This is not dangerous as long as you are not stupid. Induction melting is used in expensive casting machines and is very simple and effective. It's less dangerous than oxy- acetylene melting for example.
The sparks are too small to do any real damage, I mean you can see they extinguish themselves after a few inches in the air. Besides, if you've ever welded or used an angle grinder or something you know being showered with hot metal isn't that bad... if you actually drop some molten metal on yourself it's a different matter, but the sparks are fairly harmless.
This comment has received too many negative votesshow
WoW cool, i bet you could burn down your house with that or get charged for arsen, or get accused of being a pyromaniac, or start a forest fire, or have a good reason to say hello to your local fire fighters, or, or, or... well i guess you could just induction heat stuff with it. I wants one, put on mah to do list while in college:)
no, unless you are a bionic man with a metal hand.... but then it would melt, not cook... you would have to be a cybernetic organism like the terminator with both flesh and metal.
DONT READ THIS Cause It Really Works. YOU WILL GET KISSED ON THE NEAREST POSSIBLE FRIDAY BY THE LOVE OF YOUR LIFE. TOMORROW WILL BE THE BEST DAY OF YOUR LIFE. HOWEVER IF YOU DONT POST THIS COMMENT TO AT LEAST 3 VIDEOS YOU WILL DIE WITHIN 2 DAYS. NOW UV STARTED READIN DIS DUNT STOP THIS IS SO SCARY. SEND THIS OVER TO 5 VIDEOS IN 143 MINUTES WHEN UR DONE PRESS F6 AND UR CRUSHES NAME WILL APPEAR ON THE SCREEN IN BIG LETTERS. THIS IS SO SCARY Cuz IT ACTUALLY WORKS THIS reaLLY WORKS
about 6 sets, 4 half bridge and 2 full bridge = 16. Pretty good going really I thought. Most of them got over heated, I tried using cheap IGBT's to start with before I realised you needed low switching losses to keep the dissipation down- hence hgtg20n60's
Hi KimmY, great video! I am trying to replicate your design using two sqaure devices I found in my TV, each has three pins (I believe they are transistors). I connected the two devices to my 240V electrical outlet and I think I see some heating effect. One thing I have noticed is that the devices get hot and release blue smoke, but the sample remains cold, is this usual? Please help me, I am trying to build this to keep homeless people warm during the cold winter months. Thanks, Jim.
I would advise simply wrapping the homeless in electrical cable and attaching each end to the mains outlet- this would make a perfect low cost electrical blanket to keep them warm. As for the prototype, please keep trying.... Attaching random devices together in unusual ways normally leads to cold fusion, zero point energy or levitation effects according to other well known youtube scientists. p.s. Who is KimmY?
OK,my IH, pulls about 30 amps in 230v with no failure I use the *6 12N60 in half bridge but in lower frequency(about 50khz).I just have some problem in continuous opration.cooling inductor and capacitor,I will post a video on youtube.
I solved the plls slow lock time.I put a huge inductor in series whith the input mains, in this situation any hard switching mode cant damage the device because the curent is very low,and after locking system I shorted the inductor and nothing happend!no IGBT failure.did you ever try this?
I have a more sophisticated 'direct on line' starting measure. Basically the oscillator is gated so that it can only switch on/off on a falling edge. This prevents the distructive oscillation on startup. A delay also helps, don't allow the devices to switch on until the oscillator is stable and of course - set the centre frequency quite high to limit current during a short circuit.
If you put the probes right on the IGBTs then the output rings 4v below ground and upto 10v above the power rail- both for short durations of a few tens of ns. The current doesn't overshoot since it is an inductive load. There is a slight current ring probably due to the device inductance, it looks like about 2-4% of the current amplitude on the scope but could be a relic from the current probe. Use a compact layout and use the revised schematic on the 4hv website to get good reliability.
hi ,another question,do you know what percent of overshootig and ringing (in hard switch mode)in the current and voltage of inverter, cuse failure?specialy in 20n60
yes, but self oscillating designs are more difficult due to sub-harmonic oscillations building up leading to low frequency components (DC) appearing accross the load. You would find it easier to implement a PLL system for a full bridge... or just use a dc blocking capacitor.
Yes there are some fullbridge drivers, which one are you refering to? I use 2x ir 2184 for cost reasons if you arerefering to the IR range of products- i'm sure they are ok though
hi kimladha.whats your idea about tjis way to stop fullbridge failurs!with puting a 0.1 ohms resistor in series with inverter output and sensing current,if we have an error in duty cycle this DC voltage feeds to PWM input and corrects the wave form.
Don't bother trying to that unless you want to manufacture the heaters! Just put a DC blocking cap in, I know this makes the power supply bulky but it saves a lot of hassle. I use polyester film caps for this work- don't look at the values- just make sure they can handle the current and are at least a few microfarads.
I haved tried with h-bridge and decrease the maching inductor as low as possible,but the power level freezed at 4kw.I think I have to employ a H-bridge.whats your idea?
It will cost too much to use MOSFETS for a 10 kW design. Use IGBT's. They fail short circuit unless you have a big smoothing capacitor (then they explode)- but for 10kW you have to have a small smoothing cap for power factor reasons. Use a fast fuse.
I have used the pll route and found that you have to use a current limiter and a lot of other complex control circuits to stop the heater breaking on transients. I employed a current limiter on the self oscillating circuit and found that it never cut in even on short circuits and on start up! Thats why its not in the schematic - you don't need it. Comercial designs usually use a phase controlled power scheme to get variable power- this would be the only reason i'd switch to a pll.
but the conduction looses in capacitor and maching inductor is not a big problem I think the real problem is the self resonant system .if we want to reach over 10kw in this method whe have to increas Q factor and self resonant sys cant track resonat freq properly i think PLL is suitable for this power level.
You clearly haven't made the circuit! The self resonant design opperates to lower Q levels than most pll bases systems and provides faster lock times as well. You get trouble with pll designs due to the long lock times where the devices have to hard switch for many cycles leading to failure. The pll designs are almost never shortcircuitable either. There are no contraints on power level with this topology.
Not really... in this case the power limit in my design is due to the high conduction losses especially the matching inductor and capacitor. Lower frequency would therefore lead to no power increase capability. I would have to make these components bigger to get more power throughput. Lower frequencies allow the use of higher rated components which is good to build up a higher power design, but remember that in order to make the circuit easy to assemble, the currents must be kept small.
no google hits for this transistors datasheet! Make sure the transistor you choose is suitable for half bridge inductive load switching at least 20amps at 100khz (see derating curve) and that it has a fast antiparrallel diode.
The copper sheet is then soldered to the other connections and the copper tubes. In retrospect I would recommend water cooling the capacitors by soldering the copper pipe to the copper plate and missing out the heatsink entirely.
there is a massive copper area on the capacitors to connect to. The heat generated at this juction is negligible compared to the other losses. I just polishe the surfaces and bolted the whole lot together like a sandwich (capacitor plate - copper sheet - heatsink paste - aluminium heatsink)
Fairchilds application note says a half bridge inverter is easier and more reliable... I am inclined to agree. H bridge versions have no advantages unless you are trying to get really large powers above about 10 kW. There is a schematic I have circulated for my design, I would suggest starting there.
Awesome!! I have a novice question. How much power does it take to run? Is it possible to determine the power usage over a period of time? Like 1Kw per hour? When I see a heater that shows the power, like 600w, is that what is taken from the grid?
This heater draws between 1 and 3 kW from the grid. This is only a medium power level for induction heating like this. You can get upto 20+ kW for some applications and well over a mega watt for industrial induction furnaces.
This is neat, and I know plenty of people who have made various oscillators in this power range and much higher; they just weren't used for induction heating. I suspect diymania's own incompetence or failure has stuck him on the idea that "diyers" in general cannot make anything decent. There is nothing magical about commercial products like an Ameritherm Novastar that disallows them from being made by a competent diyer. It's just a big oscillator.
Yep, thats exactly what an induction heater is. You just need to choose high power components. The tank capacitors and coil in this case handle 400,000VA (rms) of reactive power!! 900amps at 450v rms
I don't see why you don't believe him. It's not like this is one of those gay free energy videos. If your circuit can't do this then use beefier parts and up the voltage till it does.
The key component is the CELEM power capacitor. Most DIYers use those small polypropylene caps and end up needing loads of them to get the current handling capability. I used 2x 1.6uf CELEM csp150/200. They are nice and compact and use conduction cooling- hence the black heatsink next to the work coil.
To get steel to melt you need only a few turns on the coil, about 1kw and some insulation. The fewer turns help couple the power to the highly resistive molten steel more effectivley.
Whats between those heatsinks i bet you all is just a big capacitor, looks suspiciously like a Celem CPRI 300 or similar. The actual circuit seem to be hidden and could very well be a Ameritherm Novastar 3-5 or similar with just diy remote heat station.
Okay lets say i believe you, you should really tell us what the rest of the control circuit is. No diyer that i know of have ever induction melted steel before, you are the worlds first diyer to have done this.
Did you possibly mean SGL160N60UFD? I get no datasheet results for SGL160N60D2S.
What do you have for coupling? Do you use a series inductor or a constant-current type supply? What do you have for control, is it an open-loop oscillator?
Yup, your right it is the ufd type. I wouldn't recommend them though. They are too slow for this app and have too high switching loss. I redesigned the power stage using hgtg20n60a4d igbts in a half bridge, so far cheaper, more reliable and same power. The oscillator used a free running arrangement with current feedback from the work coil, if the phase is right the free running osc will track the right frequency.
As for coupling... use an inductor, it is the simplest way. I use an air cored 30uH inductor. The value must be experimented with a bit, lower values pass more power to the work coil but lead to excessive current if you turn the thing on without a load (load = something to melt!).
Ah, I see. Then that's also something like what diymania is/was messing with, as I recall.
You might try a more advanced implementation of same: I use a free-running VCO with a phase detector feeding back the voltage phase shift on the tank. By shifting frequency off resonance, you can control power output quite easily.
Yup, i have been looking into this... what are your experiences with this method of control. I use an rc delay line on the logic part of the circuit to introduce the phase lag and hence power control. I find it difficult to get down to very low powers however.
crap... i fold....BYE :D
Lidrena 7 months ago
i want to get such a heating system, for my personal use. will you plz, supply me that?
monirul81 7 months ago
Beautiful piece!! So bright =D
Zalamedas 8 months ago
I dont claim to be an imbecile, but I have no clue to what you are doing. I want to efficently melt gold and alluminum. So how many dollars did it take to melt a socket and what are you going to make with it that you cant buy cheaper?
Davidautofull 11 months ago
Lick it.
DustinWilson1992 1 year ago
how much power does this take to melt steel and how much does it take to run it?
Morderesh 1 year ago
Can you give step by step instructions on how to make this induction heater? Please please please pleeeeaase!
yoshihawv 1 year ago
@yoshihawv Oh Man! nothing worse than worse than a C*ck sucking bitch.
Art4Law 1 year ago
this video should be re-titled "how to make a little ball of useless shit"
imyourhustler 1 year ago
@imyourhustler it's useless to YOU bc you have no idea what was presented here.
Such is the world of the ignorant imbeciles.
Art4Law 1 year ago
I dare you for a hundred bucks to touch the coils :D
WhelenVTXR2 1 year ago
@WhelenVTXR2 It wouldnt do anything
00011theman 1 year ago
@WhelenVTXR2 Send me the Hundred Dollars first.
Art4Law 1 year ago
Children who play with fire.....
xrayrep 1 year ago
Children who play with fire.....
xrayrep 1 year ago
r u kidding me? this idiot just brakes it away with his bear hand? jesus
griptick 1 year ago
Refractory material does not conduct heat very well, and that's why it doesn't burn his fingers.
xrayrep 1 year ago
I love fireworks
merkur32123 1 year ago
hey i would like to build one for my emtec class what kind of power sorce do you use and do you know of anny good web sites with helpfull information on building this type of induction heating
scrajet 1 year ago
What is the scheme?
GingleGangle1 2 years ago
lol u dident evan get it up to 88 miles per hour
StarshipTrooper101 2 years ago
next time you should heat the crucible up first in the oven to 250 for 30 minutes to drive off moisture, and insulate the cruiclbe so it heats up evenly from the steel, dont hurry it.
marieomagpie 2 years ago
urm, actually i dont think i did mate.. but if you say so.. mkay (y) -_-
flashoneandonly 2 years ago
lol -.- wtf are you fucking kidding me dude? photoshop on video? hah -.- fail
flashoneandonly 2 years ago 2
No safety practice at all in this workshop. The author was breaking the mold with his bare fingers millimeters away from the molten metal ! and used a PVC grip wire-stripper or crimper to hold the white hot metal ! That's very un-professional. Should excercise safety to avoid losing a finger or so, believe me.
Metalloys 2 years ago 3
if u were more professional then u wouldn't use the term "un-professional". try "amateur"
438426x1 2 years ago
I agree - utterly brainless - this reminds me of friends of mine who used to hold large fire crackers in their hands believing that fuses always burn at the same rate - then oneday they get a fast burning fuse - opps too late - they now have a non functioning finger - haven't seen an eye or finger damaged with molten metal, but I bet it looks ugly - and it's NOT going to be like a spark from a fire - even water won't cool it too quickly
9114steve 2 years ago
Yes, when molten metal comes into contact with the skin, it continues to burn you until either it is no longer in contact with your skin, or it has been cooled to a certain temperature... not pretty, not pretty at all.
ProDreamer3 2 years ago 2
This is not dangerous as long as you are not stupid. Induction melting is used in expensive casting machines and is very simple and effective. It's less dangerous than oxy- acetylene melting for example.
017524062 2 years ago
The sparks are too small to do any real damage, I mean you can see they extinguish themselves after a few inches in the air. Besides, if you've ever welded or used an angle grinder or something you know being showered with hot metal isn't that bad... if you actually drop some molten metal on yourself it's a different matter, but the sparks are fairly harmless.
ihmesekoilua 2 years ago 2
Comment removed
caiolagana 2 years ago
who cares it's not you having to do it :p and in the description it says "homemade" obviously not a professional...
Invisiblepanda 2 years ago
Play some holy music, the grail is forged! lol XD
flickeries 2 years ago 2
I found the experience great!
I need the basic sketch of this system!
Grateful
Erasmo dos Santos
Lazo2644 2 years ago
That's one crazy mofo touching the crucible parts with his fingers...
faxepl 2 years ago 5
This comment has received too many negative votes show
WoW cool, i bet you could burn down your house with that or get charged for arsen, or get accused of being a pyromaniac, or start a forest fire, or have a good reason to say hello to your local fire fighters, or, or, or... well i guess you could just induction heat stuff with it. I wants one, put on mah to do list while in college:)
ubrbzkr 2 years ago
TOUCH IT!!!
Sweet, your own little smelting plant. Now you can forge rings and swords... perhaps you have a future job as a blacksmith?
What material did you use for the crucible?
subsonictonic 2 years ago 2
you really should be having bare hands while near this thing, one touch and your brain will melt.
pratt123 2 years ago
Omg dude, ITS HOLY
1nazchan 2 years ago
4000 w ??? where did you get your electrecity from??? a 220v socket??
charlou3 3 years ago 2
yes, I got 8000 w from a 220v socket, but the wires have to be strong. Don't play with electricity!
sobolanul96 2 years ago
that was sick
xxGLhrMxx 3 years ago
Now Thats A Candle!!! Ps.........SAFTY SAFTY BUY LAB EQUIPMENT!!!! Its Kinda Dangerous!!!
Espresso337 3 years ago
Use lead instead if steel! it will melt faster! ;)
cuteboymimmi 3 years ago
Lead also catches fire, making a voluminous amount of white hot toxic oxides and fumes. Not nice :(
corruptiblelogistics 3 years ago 11
no offense man, but you need to check up on lab safety and buy some equipment. Like gloves etc. This stuff is dangerous you know?
JesusIsGod191 3 years ago
His hand looked alright to me.
241Groundhog 3 years ago 4
yes put your hand on it dude thats very smart
super65man 3 years ago
if i stick my hand in the middel will my hand cook?
nighthawkm1992 3 years ago
no, unless you are a bionic man with a metal hand.... but then it would melt, not cook... you would have to be a cybernetic organism like the terminator with both flesh and metal.
brightarc 3 years ago
Probably not; The oscillating frequency is matched to the range of what it will cook.
Example: If it heat just water, yes; If just aluminum: no.
241Groundhog 3 years ago
Great video! but could somebody tell me whats going on?
M3iscool 3 years ago
safety first
ucanbetouched 3 years ago
how do you make one?
hammyboobs 3 years ago
Hi Karl, great Vid. Would it be possible to replicate your system using an 800W microwave oven, a tank of propane and an awful lot of courage?
JIMBOS99 3 years ago
its 50/50 just like everything it may explode and kill, you it may not
WINGofaBLASPHEMER 2 years ago 3
oh yes molten metal on a wooden table not dangerous whatsoever XD
MrViicc 3 years ago
I bet this thing sucks a lot of juice
coondogtheman1234 3 years ago
i dare yu to touch it, lol jk nice video, at the end it looked like a ball of red, lol
InfinityM3dia 3 years ago
LAVAAAA!!!!!!
matthewbim10 3 years ago
lave is molten rock not molten metal
E4bangbangE4 3 years ago
ok dont be so mean jk lol
matthewbim10 3 years ago
that was OSSIM
cautionthisissparta 3 years ago
wow, you could use this as a lamp :)
Wicked2903 3 years ago
yes a very very hot and dangerous lamp from hell
ZevN47 3 years ago 2
still a lamp lol
tTatmosT 3 years ago
Ironman made piss...
spinctah 3 years ago
thats how they do it in modern day steel mills
laughteriscontageous 3 years ago
reading the video title always helps a lot ;)
hboy007 3 years ago
put that on your hand for 5 seconds XD
emolove4everrr 3 years ago
you wouldn't cook it; only materials that work with the frequency(s) being used will.
241Groundhog 3 years ago
And that, ladies and gentlemen, is a 'breakout'. Remember to preheat your crucibles!
sentinel76 3 years ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
lmao you're a dumbass
NintendoWeed 3 years ago
how do you make an induction heater?
llanwopnhoj 3 years ago
That looked potentially dangerous.
But completely awesome.
Nireves33 3 years ago 7
awsome! when the metal was firy orange u should through it at someone lol jk! 10*
Skatebourder 3 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
DONT READ THIS Cause It Really Works. YOU WILL GET KISSED ON THE NEAREST POSSIBLE FRIDAY BY THE LOVE OF YOUR LIFE. TOMORROW WILL BE THE BEST DAY OF YOUR LIFE. HOWEVER IF YOU DONT POST THIS COMMENT TO AT LEAST 3 VIDEOS YOU WILL DIE WITHIN 2 DAYS. NOW UV STARTED READIN DIS DUNT STOP THIS IS SO SCARY. SEND THIS OVER TO 5 VIDEOS IN 143 MINUTES WHEN UR DONE PRESS F6 AND UR CRUSHES NAME WILL APPEAR ON THE SCREEN IN BIG LETTERS. THIS IS SO SCARY Cuz IT ACTUALLY WORKS THIS reaLLY WORKS
devinsreeker 3 years ago
can you tell me how many IGBTs you have burned for this stuff?
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
about 6 sets, 4 half bridge and 2 full bridge = 16. Pretty good going really I thought. Most of them got over heated, I tried using cheap IGBT's to start with before I realised you needed low switching losses to keep the dissipation down- hence hgtg20n60's
kimladha 3 years ago
@kimladha See my other comment IGBTs Vs MosFETs
Art4Law 1 year ago
@MOJTABASHOMAL YOU don't have to use IGBTs under 600V
you can use MOSFETs and be a lot cheaper.
Art4Law 1 year ago
Hi KimmY, great video! I am trying to replicate your design using two sqaure devices I found in my TV, each has three pins (I believe they are transistors). I connected the two devices to my 240V electrical outlet and I think I see some heating effect. One thing I have noticed is that the devices get hot and release blue smoke, but the sample remains cold, is this usual? Please help me, I am trying to build this to keep homeless people warm during the cold winter months. Thanks, Jim.
JIMBOS99 3 years ago
I would advise simply wrapping the homeless in electrical cable and attaching each end to the mains outlet- this would make a perfect low cost electrical blanket to keep them warm. As for the prototype, please keep trying.... Attaching random devices together in unusual ways normally leads to cold fusion, zero point energy or levitation effects according to other well known youtube scientists. p.s. Who is KimmY?
kimladha 3 years ago
@JIMBOS99 "keep homeless people warm " ???
You're on the WRONG Project BUD!!
Art4Law 1 year ago
OK,my IH, pulls about 30 amps in 230v with no failure I use the *6 12N60 in half bridge but in lower frequency(about 50khz).I just have some problem in continuous opration.cooling inductor and capacitor,I will post a video on youtube.
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
no.i employ a half bridge.and i think full bridge works too.
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
I solved the plls slow lock time.I put a huge inductor in series whith the input mains, in this situation any hard switching mode cant damage the device because the curent is very low,and after locking system I shorted the inductor and nothing happend!no IGBT failure.did you ever try this?
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
Have you got the full bridge working then?
I have a more sophisticated 'direct on line' starting measure. Basically the oscillator is gated so that it can only switch on/off on a falling edge. This prevents the distructive oscillation on startup. A delay also helps, don't allow the devices to switch on until the oscillator is stable and of course - set the centre frequency quite high to limit current during a short circuit.
kimladha 3 years ago
If you put the probes right on the IGBTs then the output rings 4v below ground and upto 10v above the power rail- both for short durations of a few tens of ns. The current doesn't overshoot since it is an inductive load. There is a slight current ring probably due to the device inductance, it looks like about 2-4% of the current amplitude on the scope but could be a relic from the current probe. Use a compact layout and use the revised schematic on the 4hv website to get good reliability.
kimladha 3 years ago
hi ,another question,do you know what percent of overshootig and ringing (in hard switch mode)in the current and voltage of inverter, cuse failure?specialy in 20n60
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
can this fullbridge drivers drive a fullbridge without DCblocking cap?
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
yes, but self oscillating designs are more difficult due to sub-harmonic oscillations building up leading to low frequency components (DC) appearing accross the load. You would find it easier to implement a PLL system for a full bridge... or just use a dc blocking capacitor.
kimladha 3 years ago
I found that there are some fullbridge drivers,did you have used them?are they relable?I use ir2184*2 for H-bridge.
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
Yes there are some fullbridge drivers, which one are you refering to? I use 2x ir 2184 for cost reasons if you arerefering to the IR range of products- i'm sure they are ok though
kimladha 3 years ago
hi kimladha.whats your idea about tjis way to stop fullbridge failurs!with puting a 0.1 ohms resistor in series with inverter output and sensing current,if we have an error in duty cycle this DC voltage feeds to PWM input and corrects the wave form.
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
Don't bother trying to that unless you want to manufacture the heaters! Just put a DC blocking cap in, I know this makes the power supply bulky but it saves a lot of hassle. I use polyester film caps for this work- don't look at the values- just make sure they can handle the current and are at least a few microfarads.
kimladha 3 years ago
fantastic!! Jonny showed me this and i was amazed!!
whats the basic physics behind this then Kim?
tom roberts
tomroberts123 3 years ago
fantastic!! Jonny showed me this and i was amazed!!
whats the basic physics behind this then Kim?
tom roberts
tomroberts123 3 years ago
just conventional ohmic heating P=IV. The current is induced as eddy currents using high frequency magnetic fields using the outer copper coil.
kimladha 3 years ago
I haved tried with h-bridge and decrease the maching inductor as low as possible,but the power level freezed at 4kw.I think I have to employ a H-bridge.whats your idea?
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
Hi again.when I use mosfet, if a failure happens they blows instantly,what happens to an IGBT? it will detonate or will be short circuit?
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
It will cost too much to use MOSFETS for a 10 kW design. Use IGBT's. They fail short circuit unless you have a big smoothing capacitor (then they explode)- but for 10kW you have to have a small smoothing cap for power factor reasons. Use a fast fuse.
kimladha 3 years ago
thank U for your kindly helping.I am working on 10kw version
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
your right. i haven't made that circuit,but i saw a powerfull heater that use pll,is it use current limiter to prevent failures?
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
I have used the pll route and found that you have to use a current limiter and a lot of other complex control circuits to stop the heater breaking on transients. I employed a current limiter on the self oscillating circuit and found that it never cut in even on short circuits and on start up! Thats why its not in the schematic - you don't need it. Comercial designs usually use a phase controlled power scheme to get variable power- this would be the only reason i'd switch to a pll.
kimladha 3 years ago
but the conduction looses in capacitor and maching inductor is not a big problem I think the real problem is the self resonant system .if we want to reach over 10kw in this method whe have to increas Q factor and self resonant sys cant track resonat freq properly i think PLL is suitable for this power level.
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
You clearly haven't made the circuit! The self resonant design opperates to lower Q levels than most pll bases systems and provides faster lock times as well. You get trouble with pll designs due to the long lock times where the devices have to hard switch for many cycles leading to failure. The pll designs are almost never shortcircuitable either. There are no contraints on power level with this topology.
kimladha 3 years ago
i think the other way to reach higher power is working at lower frequencies because the switching devices can work in higher current,is nt it?
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
Not really... in this case the power limit in my design is due to the high conduction losses especially the matching inductor and capacitor. Lower frequency would therefore lead to no power increase capability. I would have to make these components bigger to get more power throughput. Lower frequencies allow the use of higher rated components which is good to build up a higher power design, but remember that in order to make the circuit easy to assemble, the currents must be kept small.
kimladha 3 years ago
I could found only hgtg12n60a4d and i want to use some of them in parallel to reach enough power ,is this possible?
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
Yes- connect them to try and equalise the resistances and inductances in order to get good current sharing.
kimladha 3 years ago
your hgtg20n60a4d is wondeful!!i couldnt find this, i have to comback to lower powers.
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
you can use:
hgtg30n60a4d
hgtg20n60a4d
fgh50n6s2d
fgh60n6s2d
plus many more
kimladha 3 years ago
I found to use IRG4PC50V IGBT (50A-600V-tr=49,tf=95)is this suitable for 3KW power level?
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
no google hits for this transistors datasheet! Make sure the transistor you choose is suitable for half bridge inductive load switching at least 20amps at 100khz (see derating curve) and that it has a fast antiparrallel diode.
kimladha 3 years ago
did that ever set fire to the table
matthewjohnmcgee 3 years ago
yes, and the carpet. Molten steel causes fire on contact with pretty much anything!
kimladha 3 years ago
yes i know for a fact it takes a lot of heat to melt steel or any other metel
matthewjohnmcgee 3 years ago
did you use a self resonant system in this video?
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
see the other links- i posted a schematic on 4hv forum. It uses a simple phase locking circuit.
kimladha 3 years ago
did you solde it?
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
The copper sheet is then soldered to the other connections and the copper tubes. In retrospect I would recommend water cooling the capacitors by soldering the copper pipe to the copper plate and missing out the heatsink entirely.
kimladha 3 years ago
how did you connect tank capacitor to the work coil?in this huge amps the connection zone will melt faster than the load!
MOJTABASHOMAL 3 years ago
there is a massive copper area on the capacitors to connect to. The heat generated at this juction is negligible compared to the other losses. I just polishe the surfaces and bolted the whole lot together like a sandwich (capacitor plate - copper sheet - heatsink paste - aluminium heatsink)
kimladha 3 years ago
what would you recomend? a full bridge H, or a half bridge? what tipe of frecuency control circuit would you recomend?
enfermito88 3 years ago
Fairchilds application note says a half bridge inverter is easier and more reliable... I am inclined to agree. H bridge versions have no advantages unless you are trying to get really large powers above about 10 kW. There is a schematic I have circulated for my design, I would suggest starting there.
kimladha 3 years ago
Awesome!! I have a novice question. How much power does it take to run? Is it possible to determine the power usage over a period of time? Like 1Kw per hour? When I see a heater that shows the power, like 600w, is that what is taken from the grid?
Thanks in advance.....jster
jster1963 3 years ago
This heater draws between 1 and 3 kW from the grid. This is only a medium power level for induction heating like this. You can get upto 20+ kW for some applications and well over a mega watt for industrial induction furnaces.
kimladha 3 years ago
Thank you very much.....jster
jster1963 3 years ago
Nice try ! Can I also try this with an old induction cooker ?
Or do you use some special equipment as stated above ? How can I get these parts ?
mermaidkiller 3 years ago
good one
VREDFOX 3 years ago
It looks like LCLR Induction heater shown by Richie Burnett on his website. So why so hard to believe you can melt things easily?
DamienABC 4 years ago
!!! :-O
DamienABC 4 years ago
This is neat, and I know plenty of people who have made various oscillators in this power range and much higher; they just weren't used for induction heating. I suspect diymania's own incompetence or failure has stuck him on the idea that "diyers" in general cannot make anything decent. There is nothing magical about commercial products like an Ameritherm Novastar that disallows them from being made by a competent diyer. It's just a big oscillator.
kilowatt04 4 years ago
Yep, thats exactly what an induction heater is. You just need to choose high power components. The tank capacitors and coil in this case handle 400,000VA (rms) of reactive power!! 900amps at 450v rms
kimladha 4 years ago
I don't see why you don't believe him. It's not like this is one of those gay free energy videos. If your circuit can't do this then use beefier parts and up the voltage till it does.
Tab54o 4 years ago
I would also be interested in seeing what's behind this.
Speaking of me, my video is the second on the list that came up, heh :)
T3sl4 4 years ago
The key component is the CELEM power capacitor. Most DIYers use those small polypropylene caps and end up needing loads of them to get the current handling capability. I used 2x 1.6uf CELEM csp150/200. They are nice and compact and use conduction cooling- hence the black heatsink next to the work coil.
To get steel to melt you need only a few turns on the coil, about 1kw and some insulation. The fewer turns help couple the power to the highly resistive molten steel more effectivley.
kimladha 4 years ago
Whats between those heatsinks i bet you all is just a big capacitor, looks suspiciously like a Celem CPRI 300 or similar. The actual circuit seem to be hidden and could very well be a Ameritherm Novastar 3-5 or similar with just diy remote heat station.
I highly doubt this thing is diy.
diymania 4 years ago
I'll take that as a complement. The p/s is a h bridge of sgl160n60d2s igbts driven by two ir2184 drive chips. ALL HOME BREW
kimladha 4 years ago
Okay lets say i believe you, you should really tell us what the rest of the control circuit is. No diyer that i know of have ever induction melted steel before, you are the worlds first diyer to have done this.
diymania 4 years ago
Did you possibly mean SGL160N60UFD? I get no datasheet results for SGL160N60D2S.
What do you have for coupling? Do you use a series inductor or a constant-current type supply? What do you have for control, is it an open-loop oscillator?
T3sl4 4 years ago
Yup, your right it is the ufd type. I wouldn't recommend them though. They are too slow for this app and have too high switching loss. I redesigned the power stage using hgtg20n60a4d igbts in a half bridge, so far cheaper, more reliable and same power. The oscillator used a free running arrangement with current feedback from the work coil, if the phase is right the free running osc will track the right frequency.
kimladha 4 years ago
As for coupling... use an inductor, it is the simplest way. I use an air cored 30uH inductor. The value must be experimented with a bit, lower values pass more power to the work coil but lead to excessive current if you turn the thing on without a load (load = something to melt!).
kimladha 4 years ago
Ah, I see. Then that's also something like what diymania is/was messing with, as I recall.
You might try a more advanced implementation of same: I use a free-running VCO with a phase detector feeding back the voltage phase shift on the tank. By shifting frequency off resonance, you can control power output quite easily.
T3sl4 4 years ago
Yup, i have been looking into this... what are your experiences with this method of control. I use an rc delay line on the logic part of the circuit to introduce the phase lag and hence power control. I find it difficult to get down to very low powers however.
kimladha 4 years ago
Hi Kimladha,
I've been looking for something like this for years. Do you sell plans for this?
How can I contact you?
Thanks
beerisgodsgift 2 years ago
would it be possible to get the circuit schematics for this induction heater
billmcg980 4 years ago