Added: 4 years ago
From: kimladha
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  • crap... i fold....BYE :D

  • i want to get such a heating system, for my personal use. will you plz, supply me that?

  • Beautiful piece!! So bright =D

  • I dont claim to be an imbecile, but I have no clue to what you are doing. I want to efficently melt gold and alluminum. So how many dollars did it take to melt a socket and what are you going to make with it that you cant buy cheaper?

  • Lick it.

  • how much power does this take to melt steel and how much does it take to run it?

  • Can you give step by step instructions on how to make this induction heater? Please please please pleeeeaase!

  • @yoshihawv Oh Man! nothing worse than worse than a C*ck sucking bitch.

  • this video should be re-titled "how to make a little ball of useless shit"

  • @imyourhustler it's useless to YOU bc you have no idea what was presented here.

    Such is the world of the ignorant imbeciles.

  • I dare you for a hundred bucks to touch the coils :D

  • @WhelenVTXR2 It wouldnt do anything

  • @WhelenVTXR2 Send me the Hundred Dollars first.

  • Children who play with fire.....

  • Children who play with fire.....

  • r u kidding me? this idiot just brakes it away with his bear hand? jesus

  • Refractory material does not conduct heat very well, and that's why it doesn't burn his fingers.

  • I love fireworks

  • hey i would like to build one for my emtec class what kind of power sorce do you use and do you know of anny good web sites with helpfull information on building this type of induction heating

  • What is the scheme?

  • lol u dident evan get it up to 88 miles per hour

  • next time you should heat the crucible up first in the oven to 250 for 30 minutes to drive off moisture, and insulate the cruiclbe so it heats up evenly from the steel, dont hurry it.

  • urm, actually i dont think i did mate.. but if you say so.. mkay (y) -_-

  • lol -.- wtf are you fucking kidding me dude? photoshop on video? hah -.- fail

  • No safety practice at all in this workshop. The author was breaking the mold with his bare fingers millimeters away from the molten metal ! and used a PVC grip wire-stripper or crimper to hold the white hot metal ! That's very un-professional. Should excercise safety to avoid losing a finger or so, believe me.

  • if u were more professional then u wouldn't use the term "un-professional". try "amateur"

  • I agree - utterly brainless - this reminds me of friends of mine who used to hold large fire crackers in their hands believing that fuses always burn at the same rate - then oneday they get a fast burning fuse - opps too late - they now have a non functioning finger - haven't seen an eye or finger damaged with molten metal, but I bet it looks ugly - and it's NOT going to be like a spark from a fire - even water won't cool it too quickly

  • Yes, when molten metal comes into contact with the skin, it continues to burn you until either it is no longer in contact with your skin, or it has been cooled to a certain temperature... not pretty, not pretty at all.

  • This is not dangerous as long as you are not stupid. Induction melting is used in expensive casting machines and is very simple and effective. It's less dangerous than oxy- acetylene melting for example.

  • The sparks are too small to do any real damage, I mean you can see they extinguish themselves after a few inches in the air. Besides, if you've ever welded or used an angle grinder or something you know being showered with hot metal isn't that bad... if you actually drop some molten metal on yourself it's a different matter, but the sparks are fairly harmless.

  • Comment removed

  • who cares it's not you having to do it :p and in the description it says "homemade" obviously not a professional...

  • Play some holy music, the grail is forged! lol XD

  • I found the experience great!

    I need the basic sketch of this system!

    Grateful

    Erasmo dos Santos

  • That's one crazy mofo touching the crucible parts with his fingers...

  • TOUCH IT!!!

    Sweet, your own little smelting plant. Now you can forge rings and swords... perhaps you have a future job as a blacksmith?

    What material did you use for the crucible?

  • you really should be having bare hands while near this thing, one touch and your brain will melt.

  • Omg dude, ITS HOLY

  • 4000 w ??? where did you get your electrecity from??? a 220v socket??

  • yes, I got 8000 w from a 220v socket, but the wires have to be strong. Don't play with electricity!

  • that was sick

  • Now Thats A Candle!!! Ps.........SAFTY SAFTY BUY LAB EQUIPMENT!!!! Its Kinda Dangerous!!!

  • Use lead instead if steel! it will melt faster! ;)

  • Lead also catches fire, making a voluminous amount of white hot toxic oxides and fumes. Not nice :(

  • no offense man, but you need to check up on lab safety and buy some equipment. Like gloves etc. This stuff is dangerous you know?

  • His hand looked alright to me.

  • yes put your hand on it dude thats very smart

  • if i stick my hand in the middel will my hand cook?

  • no, unless you are a bionic man with a metal hand.... but then it would melt, not cook... you would have to be a cybernetic organism like the terminator with both flesh and metal.

  • Probably not; The oscillating frequency is matched to the range of what it will cook.

    Example: If it heat just water, yes; If just aluminum: no.

  • Great video! but could somebody tell me whats going on?

  • safety first

  • how do you make one?

  • Hi Karl, great Vid. Would it be possible to replicate your system using an 800W microwave oven, a tank of propane and an awful lot of courage?

  • its 50/50 just like everything it may explode and kill, you it may not

  • oh yes molten metal on a wooden table not dangerous whatsoever XD

  • I bet this thing sucks a lot of juice

  • i dare yu to touch it, lol jk nice video, at the end it looked like a ball of red, lol

  • LAVAAAA!!!!!!

  • lave is molten rock not molten metal

  • ok dont be so mean jk lol

  • that was OSSIM

  • wow, you could use this as a lamp :)

  • yes a very very hot and dangerous lamp from hell

  • still a lamp lol

  • Ironman made piss...

  • thats how they do it in modern day steel mills

  • reading the video title always helps a lot ;)

  • put that on your hand for 5 seconds XD

  • you wouldn't cook it; only materials that work with the frequency(s) being used will.

  • And that, ladies and gentlemen, is a 'breakout'. Remember to preheat your crucibles!

  • how do you make an induction heater?

  • That looked potentially dangerous.

    But completely awesome.

  • awsome! when the metal was firy orange u should through it at someone lol jk! 10*

  • can you tell me how many IGBTs you have burned for this stuff?

  • about 6 sets, 4 half bridge and 2 full bridge = 16. Pretty good going really I thought. Most of them got over heated, I tried using cheap IGBT's to start with before I realised you needed low switching losses to keep the dissipation down- hence hgtg20n60's

  • @kimladha See my other comment IGBTs Vs MosFETs

  • @MOJTABASHOMAL YOU don't have to use IGBTs under 600V

    you can use MOSFETs and be a lot cheaper.

  • Hi KimmY, great video! I am trying to replicate your design using two sqaure devices I found in my TV, each has three pins (I believe they are transistors). I connected the two devices to my 240V electrical outlet and I think I see some heating effect. One thing I have noticed is that the devices get hot and release blue smoke, but the sample remains cold, is this usual? Please help me, I am trying to build this to keep homeless people warm during the cold winter months. Thanks, Jim.

  • I would advise simply wrapping the homeless in electrical cable and attaching each end to the mains outlet- this would make a perfect low cost electrical blanket to keep them warm. As for the prototype, please keep trying.... Attaching random devices together in unusual ways normally leads to cold fusion, zero point energy or levitation effects according to other well known youtube scientists. p.s. Who is KimmY?

  • @JIMBOS99 "keep homeless people warm " ???

    You're on the WRONG Project BUD!!

  • OK,my IH, pulls about 30 amps in 230v with no failure I use the *6 12N60 in half bridge but in lower frequency(about 50khz).I just have some problem in continuous opration.cooling inductor and capacitor,I will post a video on youtube.

  • no.i employ a half bridge.and i think full bridge works too.

  • I solved the plls slow lock time.I put a huge inductor in series whith the input mains, in this situation any hard switching mode cant damage the device because the curent is very low,and after locking system I shorted the inductor and nothing happend!no IGBT failure.did you ever try this?

  • Have you got the full bridge working then?

    I have a more sophisticated 'direct on line' starting measure. Basically the oscillator is gated so that it can only switch on/off on a falling edge. This prevents the distructive oscillation on startup. A delay also helps, don't allow the devices to switch on until the oscillator is stable and of course - set the centre frequency quite high to limit current during a short circuit.

  • If you put the probes right on the IGBTs then the output rings 4v below ground and upto 10v above the power rail- both for short durations of a few tens of ns. The current doesn't overshoot since it is an inductive load. There is a slight current ring probably due to the device inductance, it looks like about 2-4% of the current amplitude on the scope but could be a relic from the current probe. Use a compact layout and use the revised schematic on the 4hv website to get good reliability.

  • hi ,another question,do you know what percent of overshootig and ringing (in hard switch mode)in the current and voltage of inverter, cuse failure?specialy in 20n60

  • can this fullbridge drivers drive a fullbridge without DCblocking cap?

  • yes, but self oscillating designs are more difficult due to sub-harmonic oscillations building up leading to low frequency components (DC) appearing accross the load. You would find it easier to implement a PLL system for a full bridge... or just use a dc blocking capacitor.

  • I found that there are some fullbridge drivers,did you have used them?are they relable?I use ir2184*2 for H-bridge.

  • Yes there are some fullbridge drivers, which one are you refering to? I use 2x ir 2184 for cost reasons if you arerefering to the IR range of products- i'm sure they are ok though

  • hi kimladha.whats your idea about tjis way to stop fullbridge failurs!with puting a 0.1 ohms resistor in series with inverter output and sensing current,if we have an error in duty cycle this DC voltage feeds to PWM input and corrects the wave form.

  • Don't bother trying to that unless you want to manufacture the heaters! Just put a DC blocking cap in, I know this makes the power supply bulky but it saves a lot of hassle. I use polyester film caps for this work- don't look at the values- just make sure they can handle the current and are at least a few microfarads.

  • fantastic!! Jonny showed me this and i was amazed!!

    whats the basic physics behind this then Kim?

    tom roberts

  • fantastic!! Jonny showed me this and i was amazed!!

    whats the basic physics behind this then Kim?

    tom roberts

  • just conventional ohmic heating P=IV. The current is induced as eddy currents using high frequency magnetic fields using the outer copper coil.

  • I haved tried with h-bridge and decrease the maching inductor as low as possible,but the power level freezed at 4kw.I think I have to employ a H-bridge.whats your idea?

  • Hi again.when I use mosfet, if a failure happens they blows instantly,what happens to an IGBT? it will detonate or will be short circuit?

  • It will cost too much to use MOSFETS for a 10 kW design. Use IGBT's. They fail short circuit unless you have a big smoothing capacitor (then they explode)- but for 10kW you have to have a small smoothing cap for power factor reasons. Use a fast fuse.

  • thank U for your kindly helping.I am working on 10kw version

  • your right. i haven't made that circuit,but i saw a powerfull heater that use pll,is it use current limiter to prevent failures?

  • I have used the pll route and found that you have to use a current limiter and a lot of other complex control circuits to stop the heater breaking on transients. I employed a current limiter on the self oscillating circuit and found that it never cut in even on short circuits and on start up! Thats why its not in the schematic - you don't need it. Comercial designs usually use a phase controlled power scheme to get variable power- this would be the only reason i'd switch to a pll.

  • but the conduction looses in capacitor and maching inductor is not a big problem I think the real problem is the self resonant system .if we want to reach over 10kw in this method whe have to increas Q factor and self resonant sys cant track resonat freq properly i think PLL is suitable for this power level.

  • You clearly haven't made the circuit! The self resonant design opperates to lower Q levels than most pll bases systems and provides faster lock times as well. You get trouble with pll designs due to the long lock times where the devices have to hard switch for many cycles leading to failure. The pll designs are almost never shortcircuitable either. There are no contraints on power level with this topology.

  • i think the other way to reach higher power is working at lower frequencies because the switching devices can work in higher current,is nt it?

  • Not really... in this case the power limit in my design is due to the high conduction losses especially the matching inductor and capacitor. Lower frequency would therefore lead to no power increase capability. I would have to make these components bigger to get more power throughput. Lower frequencies allow the use of higher rated components which is good to build up a higher power design, but remember that in order to make the circuit easy to assemble, the currents must be kept small.

  • I could found only hgtg12n60a4d and i want to use some of them in parallel to reach enough power ,is this possible?

  • Yes- connect them to try and equalise the resistances and inductances in order to get good current sharing.

  • your hgtg20n60a4d is wondeful!!i couldnt find this, i have to comback to lower powers.

  • you can use:

    hgtg30n60a4d

    hgtg20n60a4d

    fgh50n6s2d

    fgh60n6s2d

    plus many more

  • I found to use IRG4PC50V IGBT (50A-600V-tr=49,tf=95)is this suitable for 3KW power level?

  • no google hits for this transistors datasheet! Make sure the transistor you choose is suitable for half bridge inductive load switching at least 20amps at 100khz (see derating curve) and that it has a fast antiparrallel diode.

  • did that ever set fire to the table

  • yes, and the carpet. Molten steel causes fire on contact with pretty much anything!

  • yes i know for a fact it takes a lot of heat to melt steel or any other metel

  • did you use a self resonant system in this video?

  • see the other links- i posted a schematic on 4hv forum. It uses a simple phase locking circuit.

  • did you solde it?

  • The copper sheet is then soldered to the other connections and the copper tubes. In retrospect I would recommend water cooling the capacitors by soldering the copper pipe to the copper plate and missing out the heatsink entirely.

  • how did you connect tank capacitor to the work coil?in this huge amps the connection zone will melt faster than the load!

  • there is a massive copper area on the capacitors to connect to. The heat generated at this juction is negligible compared to the other losses. I just polishe the surfaces and bolted the whole lot together like a sandwich (capacitor plate - copper sheet - heatsink paste - aluminium heatsink)

  • what would you recomend? a full bridge H, or a half bridge? what tipe of frecuency control circuit would you recomend?

  • Fairchilds application note says a half bridge inverter is easier and more reliable... I am inclined to agree. H bridge versions have no advantages unless you are trying to get really large powers above about 10 kW. There is a schematic I have circulated for my design, I would suggest starting there.

  • Awesome!! I have a novice question. How much power does it take to run? Is it possible to determine the power usage over a period of time? Like 1Kw per hour? When I see a heater that shows the power, like 600w, is that what is taken from the grid?

    Thanks in advance.....jster

  • This heater draws between 1 and 3 kW from the grid. This is only a medium power level for induction heating like this. You can get upto 20+ kW for some applications and well over a mega watt for industrial induction furnaces.

  • Thank you very much.....jster

  • Nice try ! Can I also try this with an old induction cooker ?

    Or do you use some special equipment as stated above ? How can I get these parts ?

  • good one

  • It looks like LCLR Induction heater shown by Richie Burnett on his website. So why so hard to believe you can melt things easily?

  • !!! :-O

  • This is neat, and I know plenty of people who have made various oscillators in this power range and much higher; they just weren't used for induction heating. I suspect diymania's own incompetence or failure has stuck him on the idea that "diyers" in general cannot make anything decent. There is nothing magical about commercial products like an Ameritherm Novastar that disallows them from being made by a competent diyer. It's just a big oscillator.

  • Yep, thats exactly what an induction heater is. You just need to choose high power components. The tank capacitors and coil in this case handle 400,000VA (rms) of reactive power!! 900amps at 450v rms

  • I don't see why you don't believe him. It's not like this is one of those gay free energy videos. If your circuit can't do this then use beefier parts and up the voltage till it does.

  • I would also be interested in seeing what's behind this.

    Speaking of me, my video is the second on the list that came up, heh :)

  • The key component is the CELEM power capacitor. Most DIYers use those small polypropylene caps and end up needing loads of them to get the current handling capability. I used 2x 1.6uf CELEM csp150/200. They are nice and compact and use conduction cooling- hence the black heatsink next to the work coil.

    To get steel to melt you need only a few turns on the coil, about 1kw and some insulation. The fewer turns help couple the power to the highly resistive molten steel more effectivley.

  • Whats between those heatsinks i bet you all is just a big capacitor, looks suspiciously like a Celem CPRI 300 or similar. The actual circuit seem to be hidden and could very well be a Ameritherm Novastar 3-5 or similar with just diy remote heat station.

    I highly doubt this thing is diy.

  • I'll take that as a complement. The p/s is a h bridge of sgl160n60d2s igbts driven by two ir2184 drive chips. ALL HOME BREW

  • Okay lets say i believe you, you should really tell us what the rest of the control circuit is. No diyer that i know of have ever induction melted steel before, you are the worlds first diyer to have done this.

  • Did you possibly mean SGL160N60UFD? I get no datasheet results for SGL160N60D2S.

    What do you have for coupling? Do you use a series inductor or a constant-current type supply? What do you have for control, is it an open-loop oscillator?

  • Yup, your right it is the ufd type. I wouldn't recommend them though. They are too slow for this app and have too high switching loss. I redesigned the power stage using hgtg20n60a4d igbts in a half bridge, so far cheaper, more reliable and same power. The oscillator used a free running arrangement with current feedback from the work coil, if the phase is right the free running osc will track the right frequency.

  • As for coupling... use an inductor, it is the simplest way. I use an air cored 30uH inductor. The value must be experimented with a bit, lower values pass more power to the work coil but lead to excessive current if you turn the thing on without a load (load = something to melt!).

  • Ah, I see. Then that's also something like what diymania is/was messing with, as I recall.

    You might try a more advanced implementation of same: I use a free-running VCO with a phase detector feeding back the voltage phase shift on the tank. By shifting frequency off resonance, you can control power output quite easily.

  • Yup, i have been looking into this... what are your experiences with this method of control. I use an rc delay line on the logic part of the circuit to introduce the phase lag and hence power control. I find it difficult to get down to very low powers however.

  • Hi Kimladha,

    I've been looking for something like this for years. Do you sell plans for this?

    How can I contact you?

    Thanks

  • would it be possible to get the circuit schematics for this induction heater

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