Added: 3 years ago
From: milapse
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  • Hi, I'm using 3 D300S and a Millennium 3 controller with 8 channels out.

    At the moment I'm using 2 channels out, one to run the motorized time lapse dolly, and one to control the D300S. No limits to the number of frames.

    Love your vids man, fantastic job. :-)

  • Thank you for this series!! It's extremely helpful. I want to buy a camera specifically to shoot timelapse footage of public spaces -- it's a great analysis tool pioneered by William H. "Holly" Whyte in the '70s. So I need a lot of control (e.g., I want to be able to shoot timelapse one frame per second in some cases, and one frame per minute in others). Your series really helped me figure all this out.

  • You're a really good teacher. Thanks for the info.

  • Many thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.

    Lets go try now !

  • Thanks for all the info. Very useful for my planned DSLR short movie, that will in places be timelapsed.

  • Good information, however...even the older prime and zoom lenses were full-aperture. You always viewed through the lens at maximum aperture and the camera closed the lens to taking aperture at the time of exposure. The only exceptions to this were what were called "preset" lenses, and most of those that you're likely to encounter these days are from third-party manufacturers. Your best bet for consistent exposure are the best-quality lenses you can afford from you camera's manufacturer.

  • I have watched all 3 parts of your video, I must say its very informative and I have joined the website mentioned to get further info and help.

    I love the change in pace near the end of this video !! ;) ;) :)

    Well done !!!!!

  • What do you mean by covering your eye piece? Like cover it at night so that there is no light ? or what?

  • Most cameras come with some sort of cover for the eye piece... My D2h has it built in (there is a little switch that closes a shutter). What happens here is IF you don't block light from entering the body through the eye hole the automatic meter will pick up that 'extra' light. The SLR meter design 'assumes' your going to have your eye/head blocking light from entering here - with timelapse your not going to be looking through it the entire time so therefor that 'extra light' confuses it...

  • Thanks so much for taking the time to make these, they really have helped me a lot with all of this stuff. Can you recommend some links to learn how to use Adobe After Effects? I can't seem to figure it out just be messing around with it. Its a bit over my head without a tutorial. Have any tutorial links?

    Again, great job, and thanks.

  • AE is such a huge subject! I'm far from an expert but using the help menu, searching particular commands and looking at adobe's how to on their website will help a lot!

  • Thank you! Was waiting for this.

    Well done... thanks for the link.

  • Hmmmm...another Nikon fanboy!!! lol.

    Nice video....you go into some advanced techniques. Appreciated.

  • what can I say... when you already invested in the glass what can you do!

    Thanks!

  • Thanks for another great tutorial !

  • Thanks a lot for posting this.

    Really helpful stuff, i think i'll go shoot a timelapse now :p

  • Really interesting about the iris being slightly off. Once I get a full frame camera I might look into getting a really wide, old school prime with manual iris and focus.

  • That's definitely the ultimate timelapse rig... I'd love to mount my nikkor 17-35 on a D3 and milk that shutter for all it's worth! ;-)

  • you rock dude... the only timelapse ive ever done is a full recorded video sped up in windows movie maker :-p

  • Thank you for finally finishing the series, Jay. I found it both interesting and inspirational to my own work, as does your excellent finished works.  -David

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