Added: 1 year ago
From: virtuovice
Views: 16,082
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  • I love the way you talk. Excellent demo video, thank you. A video demo of your new, more successful way of improving the convex edge would be great!

  • Hello knife master,

    I wonder if you have a knife that you put a perfect mirror finish on?

    It looks pleasing but the mirror finish also makes it cut better as there is a bit less resistance. I think the Japanese swords always have mirror finish for that reason.

    You may know of Rockstead knife company that make knives in Seiki. They put amazing mirror finish on their knives.

    Do you know how to do mirror polishing by hand? I looked but didn't find such a video in your nice collection. Thank you!

  • @vjanda1 I have never made a perfect mirror finish. I guess you will need a disc sander with a fabric polishing disc and a very fine compound. Thanks.

  • I have the F1 vg10 ; but since after using it now since purchase march 2010, I have yet to get it back to out-of-box new sharp condition; I feel very frustrated with myself.

  • @cooksecurities F1 has a micro V edge from the factory and doesn't take stropping at all unless getting rid of it at first. To do it we have to grind it from high line, otherwise the edge angle will go deep. But even if we succeed in making a shallow angled edge on it, its VG10 doesn't hold it well. So eventually F1 cannot be a great knife. It's not a very expensive knife and we cannot expect it a great performance. It's just a great looking and reputed knife IMO. Thanks.

  • Very nice!

  • Great job man, thanks

  • hmm, nice patience but that is doing it the hard way. Just get a belt grinder, leather strop and compound. Otherwise sharpen with a v edge and steel when you are cleaning the carcass.

  • is this guy for real ,,,,, he's amazing ,,, he may even outdo bluntruth4u,, in his instruction ,,,,, no need to thank me for watching ,, the pleasure was all mine

  • i dont get it honsetly, i must be retarded. what did you do?

  • @Petegrin1 This is a video of old kind. Many convex or Scandi knives with secondary micro bevels have come here since then. And I am now using from #120 to #1500 sandpapers on a thick paper book as a backing to remove the micro bevels. It will make a beautiful convex edge in 30 minutes. Thanks.

  • 3:14 microchips!

  • Why do you think Fallkniven put this micro flat V edge on the F1.

    Woud it cost more to make it a full convex like you made it?

    Thank you

  • @vjanda1 It is surely very difficult to make a beautiful edge curve only with convexing. In my experience just a bit excessive grinding changes the edge curve pretty much. In order to make a beautiful edge curve common knife makers put the annoying secondary micro V edge on the convex bevels I guess. The secondary micro V edge is just annoying! In my personal experience only the two makers which provides the true convex edges are Bark River by machine and cKc by hand. Thank you!

  • I just reprofile a new F1 to nice convex edge with miror polish edge finish - very smooth paper and hair shaving sharp finish :) - exelent knife

  • @stefanwolf88 The F1 has a fairly deep edge angle for survival use in my opinion. So I guess you needed to spend much time and grind off much metal to make it shaving sharp. My F1 is not so sharp as my TK2 which has shallower convex bevels than F1 from the factory. anyhow Congratulations to your mirror edge!

  • @virtuovice I just finish with skining and taking all ot the meet on wild hog /183 kg/ - no chiping, a little bit lose of sharpnes /mud and sand skin/ - exelent edge retention! I will take one for me but just the blade /and put some canavas micarta for handle - for secure grip in bloody tasks/ Thanks for showing us one of the perfect work knife ;)

  • @stefanwolf88 What a big wild hog! Amazing! It must have been a very tough job for the knife. I like the F1 did it. I love the hog skin and meat to eat. Your hunting is very fruitful! Take care.

  • Nice Job

  • scarry sharp!

  • @mrbeligos Why do you consistently try to crap on these videos etc.?

  • microscope close ups show that you have a long way to go to make the edge a SHARP polished cutting surface. needs improvement. sure its sharp but not a good job of finishing. needs polishing.

  • @mrbeligos For sure. Thank you.

  • All depends on what you're gonna use the knife for. If you go to a very shallow full convex, that VG10 is gonna chip out on ya when using it for small chopping tasks or batonning....ie....survival use. If you deepen the convex, it'll be better for survival use but not as great for sharp slicing. You cannot have it both ways in my opinion. You must choose to sharpen according to your use. I have both the BRK Gunny (stainless) and the F1 (custom), and I'm hard pressed to choose one over the other.

  • @ayokay123 Your opinion is for sure. I prefer relatively shallow convex for my regular hunting use. I think both F1 and Gunny have relatively deep convex for survival purpose. However both are very sharp, especially Gunny can go sharper then F1 because of its subtle and smooth convex geometry in my opinion. In my experience dropping the knife on rocks and chopping game's bones are the highest risk for chipping. So I pay much attention not to do them. Thank you.

  • @virtuovice Great video, btw. Thanks! Both the Gunny and F1 came extremely sharp from the factory. The Gunny may be just a tiny bit sharper, but I don't think it has to do with the full convex geometry nearly as much as the fact that it's a noticably thinner blade to begin with. I use both as camp/bushcraft knives, so a slightly thicker convex works for me, not to mention that the think layer of VG10 is a bit more prone to chipping than the 19C27 on the Gunny.

  • Hey man, nice video! Do all of the NEW F1s come with these secondary bevels? I have a Bravo-1 and i wanted to buy an F1 for my girlfriend, but i dont know if i want a secondary bevel on it. I just thought it was full convex, like the Bravo-1.

  • @leanrio I believe all of the F1 have secondary flat bevels on its edge, because my NL5, WM1, and TK2 have the same flat secondary edges on them. It must be the Fallkniven's way which I don't like. If you don't like it, your selection is limited to Bark River, for example Gunny or Fiddleback Recluse. The Recluse is a pretty good knife, so I will make a video on it soon. If you have time, please lood at the video. Thank you.

  • @virtuovice The thing about Bark River knives is that i live in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and its a really moist and salty enviroment(i live 1 block away from the beach). When i got my Bravo-1 i left it for 1 day without Tuf-Cloth on it, and it already showed signs of rust. i can't even imagine how it would behave on the trails, with heavy use.

    I might have to stay with ESEE Rcs like the RC-4, the small bevel will be easier for her to maintain. And i'm not spending 300 dolars on a Bravo-1 SS :P

  • @leanrio It's cool that you live in Brazil and walk on trails with Bravo1. Surely the stainless Bark Rivers are too expensive. I have RC3 and its coating is pretty rust resistant, but its edge is very easy to rust. I don't think the secondary flat edge of the F1 will be a problem for you. When you strop or sharpen it, you just do it at a bit high angle, 20degrees. I just love shallow convexing. Before I knew the fact, I had been able to make it very sharp with high angle stropping. Thanks.

  • Wow...I think you must be real satisfied with the fruits of your hard labor in putting on a REAL convex. I love it! Another great video! :-)

  • @knivesfishwild Thanks. But I feel some anxiety about my 3G-TK2.

  • @virtuovice LOL! My friend, you need to sell away your microscope & pray for deer season to come faster, if you know what I mean!

  • @knivesfishwild You say the point . If I didn't have a....

  • Nice Job!

  • could you show a ceramic knife under the microscope please. i would like how the structure of the ceramic differs. thank you

  • @liebre4x4  If I had it, I would do it. Thanks.

  • @virtuovice i have an extra ceramic knife, i will gladly send it to you for free, japan right?

    how can i contact you so that other people will not interfere?

    how can i give you my email address?

    don't feel bad to recieve my knife, it would be a gift as an apreciation to your work. also i dont have the microscope you toold me last time. its quite expensive.

    if you dont want to im still ok, i am really pleased because you anwser my question, it means a lot.

  • @liebre4x4 Hi, I appreciate your courtesy. However I can get a kitchen ceramic knife for a low price here and there in Japan, because Japan has a decent history of the porcelain business. So I will get it for my use and check up its edge throuth the microscope. It's no problem. Thank you.

  • @virtuovice great! thank you a lot. I apreciate your kindness.

  • wow i really enjoy your vids on convex edges. espesially when you show them under the microscope. thanks again. very interesting to people like you and me who are in love with knives.

  • WOW! You have so much patience! Unbelievable, truly is! I can't believe you were able to remove the secondary bevel from the F1 all by hand stropping. Amazing job.

  • Wow, no one shows this concept better than you! Amazing.  How long did it take you?

  • @traderjoes Thank you. It took me 3 hours with 1000 strokes each sides of the edge. If I had done it on rough sandpapers I could have spared much time.

  • @TheMudhole9 Thanks. My binocular microscope is 20×, and my video camera is 5×. So I think the total magnification is 100×.

  • Easily the best video on convex sharpening i have ever seen. Great lighting! Excelent job. I could not take my eyes of the screen. Congrats!

  • Scary sharp is right. Great video.

  • Nice job! The knives with one bevel, the edge bevel, are used to be sharpened with a micro secondary bevel to avoid microchiping . I think that is why Fallkniven used to sharpen their knives!

  • Try toothy edge on meat. Unlike wood, cutting meat is better with a toothy edge. In my opinion of course. Thanks

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