I am a 35-year-old Japanese. I want to make a cylinder of Brush-Cutter. Please teach you to me about a method of the sand casting. What is the sand which you use for sand casting?
What are the materials of a tree using for a shoe tree?
The only odd thing I noticed about your whole process was the lack of pattern mating pins. I've never trusted stacking 2 mold halves on top of each other and hope they stay. Two small mating pins make sure they don't slide.
@ROFLxD3000 not to be a dick, but it certainly is not. maby at the temps you are use to seeing it at, but rest asured it is NOT silver at all temps (expecially above its boiling pt), and also the color at higher temps is relevant to the amount of ambient light as to wether or not it looks red, orange, etc, etc. like at white hot but under an extremely bright light.. silver. though at low red heat in a dark room,.. red obviously. and above boiling pt, its vapor or plasma so nope
While the pieces of the core are shown briefly, you never describe how you shaped, assembled, and positioned those pieces relative to one another and to the pattern. If the core is not a simple shape like a cylinder, and you want the casting to have an equal wall thickness, how do you achieve that? How do you coordinate the shape of the inside (core) with the shape of the outside (pattern) of the casting? This topic may warrant a video of its own. I read your blog, but it didn't address this.
@bx2200 I am making a core box at the moment and have have been videoing the construction. I need to make the core and do the casting before I upload the video.
You should consider making a real power plant. May I suggest that one day you make a RBMK-1000. You could power your entire shop off it, and more. Just be careful when you throttle it down, RBMK-1000's get squirrly when at the lower end of the Mollier DIagram. Thanks for your vids. :)
A person as talented as you must be very busy so thanks for taking time to look at all the comments posted. I have a lot of questions but here are some very general ones: Do you make all your wooden molds and boxes? With all the machines you have how much money do you think you spent ? what are the tools you use to make and engine of this size? How long sdid it take you to aquire all of these tools and knowlegde? I appriciate your time and would be upset if you cant respond so thanks!
@PyroRul3s The main tools for model engineering are the lathe and mill and a collection of hand tools. I make all the wooden patterns and flasks, you can see some being made in my videos.
I have built up my tool collection over 30 years so would not like to estimate the cost.
I am from Ecuador, I was looking for something like this video many months ago, and finally I found it !! great job. In the world are few smart people, you belong to that group..... my regards!
Hi, i have a question related to the quality of the aluminium, my father was like you
a machinist, of the old school, he pass and left some aluminium rods made from scrap aluminium, i need to build a prop hub and i know that the foundry was right as i was the one who clean and remove the dirt and steel from the molten aluminium
as i am not a metalurgic i want to know if the final aluminium will be a good metal to build the prop hub for an airboat, any clue? thanks
@MICMECMEXICALI I wouldn't like to recommend a home cast aluminium hub for the prop, there must be a lot of stress on that part if the blades are fixed to it.
You can use very fine beach sand and sodium silicate, but this requires special handling. When using sodium silicate, injecting carbon dioxide into the mold causes a reaction which hardens the mold instantly.
I just chanced upon this video. There's no sound on this PC so I don't know if there was a running commentary. It's just that four years ago I bought a foundry on ebaY (as you do) which was a whole lot bigger than I expected it to be. I never used it and was considering selling it but now I have decided to rig it all up and make something from melted down swarf. Great video... !
You do the great things!! I won't get surprised if one day there come a 65 Ford Mustang in your workshop and just a week after it there a clone of it :D
Thank you for the awesome series. I have two questions:
1- Can the lost foam method be used with this greensand method?
2- Are the nodes (for lack of a better term) that protrude from the ends of the core making contact with the molded portion to keep it suspended and thus maintaining a consistent wall thickness in the final piece?
@CineGolem I have no experience of lost foam but understand that regular sand is used not greensand. The foam can be coated with a plaster before covering and the sand is comaritevley loose around the pattern.
You are correct about the "nodes" The pattern has extra parts added called core prints which leave the recesses in the sand for core location.
Thank you for the awesome series. I have two questions:
1- Can the lost foam method be used with this greensand method?
2-Are the nodes (for lack of a better term) that protrude from the ends of the core making contact with the molded portion to keep it suspended and thus maintaining a consistent wall thickness in the final piece?
@rcwarship To do it that way would be more difficult.. The pattern would need core prints added to the sides to make the cavity for the core and the extra part of the core would need to be perfectly aligned to get the apature in the right place. Only took a few minites to drill it out.
I noticed when you were cutting the ingates that there are still angles in the mold that are not in a direct line with the opposite ingate. How do you avoid problems with air voids in the finished piece, or does putting enough metal in take care of the problem as long as there are no undercuts?
@iguanian I guess you mean that the riser is not at the the far end from the feeder.? On this one the riser is at the highest point on the pattern so air is vented from here. It was positioned there as this was a surface that was to be machined later. Its not essential to do this though it works ok if they are are at opposite sides and on the parting line. On small castings I may just have the one ingate and no riser. The extended risers I use give a good head of metal to fill the mould.
@bfrance2002 The core cannot move. It is located in correct place by the shape left by the pattern called a core print. When the the two parts of the flask are closed it cannot move.
@TheMrTinker Brass and copper would make bronze. Its not usual to mix aluminium with brass. You would need to to reach a higher temerature than my furnace lining is designed for.
Have you tried lost foam? I could probably make that entire thing from drawing to casting in like 2-3 hours with lost foam. The lost foam process is cleaner and quicker than sand casting. I used to do sand casting and I will never go back unless I have to. With foam you can make all sorts of different shapes. No cope, no drag, just make it and pour it.
@hypoallergeni I haven't tried lost foam but I don't see how a foam pattern could be made at home with the amount of detail like lettering that I like to include without using CNC methods .Also if you need more castings you need to make another foam pattern.
Fascinating. You are very talented and this video is excellent. Thanks for posting. I've been trying to figure out how to do something like this-really helpful.
The little amount that it will absorb wouldn't make any difference to the mold. I have used graphite, ground up brick and silicon spray. I try not to use silicon spray too much just in case it coats too much sand/clay and stops it from sticking causing the mold to fall apart. It does work though..
How do you get the sand cores centered? It seems like they would sit on the bottom of the mold, leading to one side being very thin and the other side thick.
There are 3 location points added to the pattern known as core prints. These leave a void in the sand to support the core in the correct location. You can see this at 4:40.
I was given mine but I would try John Winter & co ltd who adveritise in Model Engineer as suppliers. You can get a free catalogue. Google will find them.
If you compare the pattern with the finished casting you will see the two parts of the pattern when fitted together have 3 extra round sections on the ends. These are the CORE PRINTS and form impresions in the sand to locate the core in the correct place.
Yes, some insight to your post-casting work would be interesting as well. This is an excellent companion to the Lindsay books I have purchased in the past.
A picture may be worth a thousand words, but a video like this is priceless!
To do it that way would be more difficult.. The pattern would need core prints added to the sides to make the cavity for the core and the extra part of the core would need to be perfectly aligned to get the apature in the right place. Only took a few minites to drill it out.
Carefull with that chizel, you dont want to hit your nuts!!!
krillin876 12 hours ago
I am a 35-year-old Japanese. I want to make a cylinder of Brush-Cutter. Please teach you to me about a method of the sand casting. What is the sand which you use for sand casting?
What are the materials of a tree using for a shoe tree?
Please teach it.
417take23 1 day ago
perfect part !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
midp1990 2 days ago
You can recycle the sand and make a new mold afterwards if necessary, right?
NiamOfAsuras 3 days ago
@NiamOfAsuras Yes that's right.
myfordboy 3 days ago
The way you work is like art I can watch this all night.
langer1972 4 days ago in playlist Metal Casting at Home The Backyard Foundry
you should set up your own website to watch the full video and i accept to paid you to downloading the full version of video clip by paypal
paul8246 5 days ago
@paul8246 Good idea but I don't think anyone would pay as I am showing them free here.
I have some more info at myfordboy.blogspot.com
myfordboy 5 days ago
I subbed'. Mad skillz.
jaystyles007 5 days ago
I found this video to be relaxing.
intheshitter 6 days ago
Awesome job, dog!
RatkoUSA 1 week ago
Nice work!
snapkeck82 1 week ago
I've got a question for ya! Would it be possible to send you a brass/bronze connecting rod from an old ritter dental compressor for casting?
BOBKB3NZX 1 week ago
@BOBKB3NZX I only do aluminium and I am the UK.
myfordboy 1 week ago
i dont know why im watching this
PlutonGB 1 week ago 2
I am awarding you extra man card points
skipstalforce 1 week ago 2
That looks awesome!
BarneySaysHi 2 weeks ago
angry sandman at 3:54!---bottom left.
windsunvolts 2 weeks ago
@joute12
Some of us cannot afford that!!
caserules1 2 weeks ago
you are an awsome human being!
nothadnotbad 2 weeks ago
Interesting, but a lot of work for this simple construction. Use a CNC mashine for this things.
joute12 2 weeks ago
thanks a lot it helped me 2 understand better than reading
iamuddannavar 2 weeks ago in playlist c
@OreiZlatan Finished project can be seen in my video "Model Stickney hit and miss engine first run."
myfordboy 3 weeks ago
a little rough there at 5:05! jk
skatingLITHvideos 3 weeks ago
that's just hypnotic
DaBoomz13 4 weeks ago
what was the piece you were casting?
bazengao 4 weeks ago
@bazengao Finished project can be seen in my video "Model Stickney hit and miss engine first run."
myfordboy 4 weeks ago
how many times can you use the moulding sand ?
frxvt 4 weeks ago
@frxvt Can be uesd indefinatly.
myfordboy 4 weeks ago
what sand do u use
ashlaughlin 1 month ago
@ashlaughlin See the "Sand for Casting" page at myfordboy.blogspot.com
myfordboy 4 weeks ago
your the man
AllForTheGame 1 month ago
Extremely interessing video.
I wonder how it is possible to the metal to cover all the "sand nucleus" (I don't know the right word), whereas it rests on the mold (due to gravity).
And I'm sorry for my english, I'm french =)
dedelerocker 1 month ago in playlist Metal Casting at Home The Backyard Foundry
@dedelerocker Please see my blog for the answer, metalcasting tips myfordboy.blogspot.com
myfordboy 1 month ago
@myfordboy Thank you !
dedelerocker 1 month ago
The only odd thing I noticed about your whole process was the lack of pattern mating pins. I've never trusted stacking 2 mold halves on top of each other and hope they stay. Two small mating pins make sure they don't slide.
solath 1 month ago
@solath All my patterns have to locating dowels, it would not be possible to ensure alignment without them.
myfordboy 1 month ago
@Populist1488 My sand is water bonded not oil bonded.
myfordboy 1 month ago
hwat metal hwere you casting? tin, aluminium or lead?
MrOlekul 1 month ago
@MrOlekul Alumininum
myfordboy 1 month ago
@myfordboy lol isnt molten aluminium glowing red?
MrOlekul 1 month ago
@MrOlekul no^^ the color of aluminium is silver at every temperature
ROFLxD3000 1 month ago
@ROFLxD3000 not to be a dick, but it certainly is not. maby at the temps you are use to seeing it at, but rest asured it is NOT silver at all temps (expecially above its boiling pt), and also the color at higher temps is relevant to the amount of ambient light as to wether or not it looks red, orange, etc, etc. like at white hot but under an extremely bright light.. silver. though at low red heat in a dark room,.. red obviously. and above boiling pt, its vapor or plasma so nope
demnlordd666 1 month ago
@myfordboy No, if its glowing red its way too hot for casting.
myfordboy 1 month ago
best video i've seen on the tube for a long time. Not talking, all visual showing. I like that alot
kramler 1 month ago
EXELENTE SOY DE ARGENTINA MUCHOS EXITOS Y ME GUSTARIA APRENDER TU OFICIO PARA PODER INDEPENDISARME ALGUN DIA UN SALUDO ENORME
totonini121 1 month ago
this was just amazing to wach
Xittin 1 month ago
Why didn't you just drill one large hole and use a band saw cutter to cut away that piece instead of wasting 2 hours to drill 100 holes..
ebayisajoke 1 month ago
That's amazing!
ArosIrwin 2 months ago
you look like you have some great casting sand. what mixture do you use?
xxkittenkiller 2 months ago 2
@xxkittenkiller Its not a home made greensand but a foundry product.
myfordboy 1 month ago
Wkwrodburner I was doing this back in 1973 in Jr high.
It's nice to see it still being done the simple way. I have a crucible furnace just don't the time to set it up. Good job.
wkwrodburner 2 months ago
While the pieces of the core are shown briefly, you never describe how you shaped, assembled, and positioned those pieces relative to one another and to the pattern. If the core is not a simple shape like a cylinder, and you want the casting to have an equal wall thickness, how do you achieve that? How do you coordinate the shape of the inside (core) with the shape of the outside (pattern) of the casting? This topic may warrant a video of its own. I read your blog, but it didn't address this.
bx2200 2 months ago 2
@bx2200 I am making a core box at the moment and have have been videoing the construction. I need to make the core and do the casting before I upload the video.
myfordboy 2 months ago
Great! Now I have to watch all the rest of your excellent videos.
Charlie Ammen's The Metal Caster's Bible is my bedtime reader and your casting looks textbook.
One of the best videos on YouTube.
Navigator777777 2 months ago
@Navigator777777 thanks for the book name! Just picked it up on amazon for 10 bucks.
diyengineer 2 months ago
is sand used instead of for example silicone rubber because you can use it again and again? or does rubber simply not stand the heat?
fauxgt 3 months ago
@fauxgt Rubber would not be up to the temperatures involved.
myfordboy 2 months ago
part is only as good as the pattern its made from
LYinKansas 3 months ago
@LYinKansas and if you ran a couple pieces of stiff wire to the core through the mold it would have saved you some machine time..
LYinKansas 3 months ago
can you re use the green sand?
lerpman1990 3 months ago in playlist Metal Casting at Home The Backyard Foundry
@lerpman1990 Can be used over and over.
myfordboy 3 months ago
you need a workbench. working at floor level is hard on knees and back
chevyvictor 4 months ago
nice work
19Delta2011 4 months ago
You should consider making a real power plant. May I suggest that one day you make a RBMK-1000. You could power your entire shop off it, and more. Just be careful when you throttle it down, RBMK-1000's get squirrly when at the lower end of the Mollier DIagram. Thanks for your vids. :)
TalksWithDirt 5 months ago
wow that sand is amazing to stay in the frame without support.
btw how did you shape the wooden mold?
DanFrederiksen 5 months ago
@DanFrederiksen My videos part 15 and 22 show how i make the patterns.
myfordboy 5 months ago
wow truly art, i love your jobs, so much...
GUNDAMZGOK 6 months ago
Very cool! Thanks for sharing
GSRJosh33 6 months ago
Incredible. Thanks for posting!
EngineeringFun 7 months ago
A person as talented as you must be very busy so thanks for taking time to look at all the comments posted. I have a lot of questions but here are some very general ones: Do you make all your wooden molds and boxes? With all the machines you have how much money do you think you spent ? what are the tools you use to make and engine of this size? How long sdid it take you to aquire all of these tools and knowlegde? I appriciate your time and would be upset if you cant respond so thanks!
PyroRul3s 7 months ago
@PyroRul3s The main tools for model engineering are the lathe and mill and a collection of hand tools. I make all the wooden patterns and flasks, you can see some being made in my videos.
I have built up my tool collection over 30 years so would not like to estimate the cost.
myfordboy 7 months ago
STINKY
leobrynn 7 months ago
I am from Ecuador, I was looking for something like this video many months ago, and finally I found it !! great job. In the world are few smart people, you belong to that group..... my regards!
burro85678 8 months ago
This video says you use green sand, do you have to mull it at any time or do you simply add water?
nealan11 8 months ago
@nealan1 I just sieve it and add water. If you are using homemade greensand it would need mulling.
myfordboy 8 months ago
wow!!!!! you are really a" can do" person.
cfinoh1 8 months ago
CLASSICAL METAL
reinmaggot91 9 months ago
Hi, i have a question related to the quality of the aluminium, my father was like you
a machinist, of the old school, he pass and left some aluminium rods made from scrap aluminium, i need to build a prop hub and i know that the foundry was right as i was the one who clean and remove the dirt and steel from the molten aluminium
as i am not a metalurgic i want to know if the final aluminium will be a good metal to build the prop hub for an airboat, any clue? thanks
MICMECMEXICALI 9 months ago
@MICMECMEXICALI I wouldn't like to recommend a home cast aluminium hub for the prop, there must be a lot of stress on that part if the blades are fixed to it.
myfordboy 9 months ago
wtfffffff i write metal guitar and i found this :(
TheSlipknotist 9 months ago
Do you do brass casting for jewelry? I'd love to find someone who can cast pendants for me. Any help?
tydel1985 9 months ago
@tydel1985 I only have experience with aluminium
myfordboy 9 months ago
@myfordboy ...maybe any help as to, green sand or other DIY binding agents to make castings? (Detroit born and bred here, ford fan till the end!)
iamgriff 7 months ago
WOW. Looks like someone really know´s what he´s doing.
Best home aluminium casting video i have seen so far!!
Congratulations
kommodorez24 9 months ago
You can use very fine beach sand and sodium silicate, but this requires special handling. When using sodium silicate, injecting carbon dioxide into the mold causes a reaction which hardens the mold instantly.
douro20 9 months ago
very informative. have to try this!
automateanything 9 months ago
I just chanced upon this video. There's no sound on this PC so I don't know if there was a running commentary. It's just that four years ago I bought a foundry on ebaY (as you do) which was a whole lot bigger than I expected it to be. I never used it and was considering selling it but now I have decided to rig it all up and make something from melted down swarf. Great video... !
R75Sidecar 10 months ago
@R75Sidecar There is no commentary only captions and the background of singing birds and me working.
Swarf is not the best thing to melt. It makes a lot of dross due to not much metal for surface area. Metal that has been cast before is best.
myfordboy 10 months ago
@R75Sidecar I get good sound for me, sorry.
XP Pro in the UK.
Sounds, pun intended, like you may need a Flash update
Films4You 9 months ago
totally cool
DreamSeekerOne 10 months ago
I swear, you're video is awsome
nicefriend7000 10 months ago
Have you ever thought of adding a date code or something, your initials, etc. so in the future someone would know the part origin or date?
handiest1 10 months ago
@handiest1 I always cast my name and year on some unseen part of the finished model.
myfordboy 10 months ago
You do the great things!! I won't get surprised if one day there come a 65 Ford Mustang in your workshop and just a week after it there a clone of it :D
ahsworkshop 10 months ago
Somebody needs some cutco scissors.
remi675 10 months ago
Comment removed
remi675 10 months ago
wow a lot better than loss wax.
boeingnz 10 months ago
Thank you for the awesome series. I have two questions:
1- Can the lost foam method be used with this greensand method?
2- Are the nodes (for lack of a better term) that protrude from the ends of the core making contact with the molded portion to keep it suspended and thus maintaining a consistent wall thickness in the final piece?
Thank you again.
CineGolem 11 months ago
@CineGolem I have no experience of lost foam but understand that regular sand is used not greensand. The foam can be coated with a plaster before covering and the sand is comaritevley loose around the pattern.
You are correct about the "nodes" The pattern has extra parts added called core prints which leave the recesses in the sand for core location.
myfordboy 11 months ago
@myfordboy your sand looks very black, is it mixed with something?
Axbent 3 months ago
@Axbent No. It was dark brown but has darkened with use.
myfordboy 3 months ago
Thank you for the awesome series. I have two questions:
1- Can the lost foam method be used with this greensand method?
2-Are the nodes (for lack of a better term) that protrude from the ends of the core making contact with the molded portion to keep it suspended and thus maintaining a consistent wall thickness in the final piece?
Thank you again.
CineGolem 11 months ago
I'm very impressed at the quality. You'd almost get away without machining it :)
Also, I've never seen a furnace and crucible so clean!
greatspacegibbon 11 months ago
Thank you very much for your series on foundry work & molding. You are an excellent craftsman.
I was wondering why the core couldn't be made bigger so that you didn't have to drill/chisel the body section out.
Thanks Again & Best Regards,
Jon
rcwarship 11 months ago
@rcwarship To do it that way would be more difficult.. The pattern would need core prints added to the sides to make the cavity for the core and the extra part of the core would need to be perfectly aligned to get the apature in the right place. Only took a few minites to drill it out.
myfordboy 11 months ago
@myfordboy
Ah yes, I could see where aligning the core would be a problem, you've already got a pretty complex set going on it now.
Thanks again for your great series, I am learning a lot. I just completed my furnace & poured some ingots. I'm working on my first project now.
Best Regards,
Jon
rcwarship 11 months ago
on the job ..
solid craftsmanship..
chena3 11 months ago
Excellent video. Really well done and clear with no trashy musak (quite rare on youtube). Perfect for my Design Technology classes. Thanks
willscaldwell 11 months ago
one hell of a skill trate
thomasuras 11 months ago
what the hell is moulding? you mean molding?
joeratti 11 months ago
@joeratti That's how we spell it in the Uk. You say color we say colour.
myfordboy 11 months ago 9
@myfordboy silly me
joeratti 11 months ago
can that used sand be used over and over?
theron324 11 months ago
@theron324 Yes. can be used for ever.
myfordboy 11 months ago
Briliant stuff!, thanks for posting this, long had a facination for metal casting
1BustedMyth 1 year ago
if i was to make an engine block mould and had enough metal would the final result be strong enough to bore out
210482fmj 1 year ago
@210482fmj Yes. No problem Its easily strong enough
myfordboy 1 year ago
Comment removed
210482fmj 1 year ago
I noticed when you were cutting the ingates that there are still angles in the mold that are not in a direct line with the opposite ingate. How do you avoid problems with air voids in the finished piece, or does putting enough metal in take care of the problem as long as there are no undercuts?
iguanian 1 year ago
@iguanian I guess you mean that the riser is not at the the far end from the feeder.? On this one the riser is at the highest point on the pattern so air is vented from here. It was positioned there as this was a surface that was to be machined later. Its not essential to do this though it works ok if they are are at opposite sides and on the parting line. On small castings I may just have the one ingate and no riser. The extended risers I use give a good head of metal to fill the mould.
myfordboy 1 year ago
hi there can you tell me what type of sand your useing in the mold box ty
slickster3100 1 year ago
@slickster3100 This is "greensand" a natural bonded sand. Its from a foundry supplier. I am in the Uk so can't help with a supplier near you.
It possible to make your own with bentonite clay and playand but I haven't had need to try this myself.
myfordboy 1 year ago
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asanthianjani 1 year ago
love your videos!
Hootnik 1 year ago
Great stuff. Do you make your own wood patterns? Thanks for posting.
coriander2 1 year ago
@coriander2 Yes. you can see this in some of my videos.
myfordboy 1 year ago
Don't you glue the cores in?So it does not move?
bfrance2002 1 year ago
@bfrance2002 The core cannot move. It is located in correct place by the shape left by the pattern called a core print. When the the two parts of the flask are closed it cannot move.
myfordboy 1 year ago
Just out of interest what is the object you made used for?
Phrozius 1 year ago
@Phrozius Its the engine block for a half size Stickney hit and miss engine. You can see it being machined in my later videos.
myfordboy 1 year ago
@myfordboy Ah I see.. great videos very interesting. Thanks :)
Phrozius 1 year ago
I want to make a plaque for ancestors with out head stones 1860s
can you mix metals togeather say aluminium and brass
TheMrTinker 1 year ago
@TheMrTinker Brass and copper would make bronze. Its not usual to mix aluminium with brass. You would need to to reach a higher temerature than my furnace lining is designed for.
myfordboy 1 year ago
Have you tried lost foam? I could probably make that entire thing from drawing to casting in like 2-3 hours with lost foam. The lost foam process is cleaner and quicker than sand casting. I used to do sand casting and I will never go back unless I have to. With foam you can make all sorts of different shapes. No cope, no drag, just make it and pour it.
hypoallergeni 1 year ago
@hypoallergeni I haven't tried lost foam but I don't see how a foam pattern could be made at home with the amount of detail like lettering that I like to include without using CNC methods .Also if you need more castings you need to make another foam pattern.
myfordboy 1 year ago
Fascinating. You are very talented and this video is excellent. Thanks for posting. I've been trying to figure out how to do something like this-really helpful.
spoonbender123 1 year ago
This has got to be the best one of all your videos i've seen so far - A man after my own heart!! A1.
BITTYBOY121 1 year ago
Marvelous...rather like being Vulcan at his forge, ya know?
pheenix42 1 year ago
Simply awesome process... How do you remove the rest of the core?
BarleyBenton 2 years ago
Core can me dug out from holes in the casting ends. Breaks out easily.
myfordboy 2 years ago
fantastic job i learned something with your video
utsports 2 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
engine block for a half size Stickney engine model.
Should be added to 'more info section'.
Great video.
Ibringthetruth1 2 years ago
Great casting videos!
Thanks a lot for you efforts and for sharing!
MuellerNick 2 years ago
Ah, so talc works well as a dusting powder? Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't talc absorb moisture out of the sand?
pheenix42 2 years ago
Works well for me. Doesn't seem to effect the sand, its only a very thin coating.
myfordboy 2 years ago
The little amount that it will absorb wouldn't make any difference to the mold. I have used graphite, ground up brick and silicon spray. I try not to use silicon spray too much just in case it coats too much sand/clay and stops it from sticking causing the mold to fall apart. It does work though..
baccus61 1 year ago
How do you get the sand cores centered? It seems like they would sit on the bottom of the mold, leading to one side being very thin and the other side thick.
Cainula 2 years ago
There are 3 location points added to the pattern known as core prints. These leave a void in the sand to support the core in the correct location. You can see this at 4:40.
myfordboy 2 years ago
i there were do you get your casting sand from?
paulwoolner 2 years ago
I was given mine but I would try John Winter & co ltd who adveritise in Model Engineer as suppliers. You can get a free catalogue. Google will find them.
myfordboy 2 years ago
Have you run into and Laws/Bylaws/Annoying Neighbors that frown on doing this kind of stuff in town?
Skuce 2 years ago
I live in the country! I wouldn't worry though its no more halmfull than a barbeque.
myfordboy 2 years ago
How do keep the core centered in the mold?
sail1999 2 years ago
If you compare the pattern with the finished casting you will see the two parts of the pattern when fitted together have 3 extra round sections on the ends. These are the CORE PRINTS and form impresions in the sand to locate the core in the correct place.
myfordboy 2 years ago
that is prity cool i do it in school and it turns out good but yours is nice
dimitrya1234 2 years ago
If you're looking for more video ideas, I'd love to see more of the machining process. Great videos, please keep them coming!
willfrost 2 years ago
Ok I'll see what I can do.
myfordboy 2 years ago
what is that
dimitrya1234 2 years ago
Its the engine block for a half size Stickney engine model.
myfordboy 2 years ago
Great series I watched 1-10, I was very impressed!!
Motomboo 2 years ago
exquisite
oheix 2 years ago
Congratulations, great work! I'm from Brazil I'm starting a home foundry.
eddragon76 2 years ago
Keep up the great work !
jdsprince 2 years ago
I like your videos very much, very informative. Thanks for showing some mistakes.
I just wish you wouldn't talk so much. Ha
paprjam 2 years ago
Yes, some insight to your post-casting work would be interesting as well. This is an excellent companion to the Lindsay books I have purchased in the past.
A picture may be worth a thousand words, but a video like this is priceless!
Cheers,
twofoot65 2 years ago
Great work. just wondering what material do you use to form the core? is it the same sand mixture or do you use a core binder?
eddie2799 2 years ago
I show how this is made in video number 5
myfordboy 2 years ago
Beautiful work once again. 5 stars!!!
I was wondering... Instead of cutting out the panel on each side to remove the core, why didn't you just make it part of the core?
JCLabs 2 years ago
Good point.
To do it that way would be more difficult.. The pattern would need core prints added to the sides to make the cavity for the core and the extra part of the core would need to be perfectly aligned to get the apature in the right place. Only took a few minites to drill it out.
myfordboy 2 years ago
This has got to be the best series on metal casting that has been published for the amateur foundryman.
I take my hat off to you for your skills in turning scrap into great pieces of engineering with limited facilities.
Thanks for sharing .:)
barumman 2 years ago
Great vid!!!! Your videos keep getting better and better!
braindead4554 2 years ago
Looks like its stickney time ! Godd engines
Asimo380 2 years ago