Added: 2 years ago
From: myfordboy
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  • Carefull with that chizel, you dont want to hit your nuts!!!

  • I am a 35-year-old Japanese. I want to make a cylinder of Brush-Cutter. Please teach you to me about a method of the sand casting. What is the sand which you use for sand casting?

    What are the materials of a tree using for a shoe tree?

    Please teach it.

  • perfect part !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • You can recycle the sand and make a new mold afterwards if necessary, right?

  • @NiamOfAsuras Yes that's right.

  • The way you work is like art I can watch this all night.

  • you should set up your own website to watch the full video and i accept to paid you to downloading the full version of video clip by paypal

  • @paul8246 Good idea but I don't think anyone would pay as I am showing them free here.

    I have some more info at myfordboy.blogspot.com

  • I subbed'. Mad skillz.

  • I found this video to be relaxing.

  • Awesome job, dog!

  • Nice work!

  • I've got a question for ya! Would it be possible to send you a brass/bronze connecting rod from an old ritter dental compressor for casting?

  • @BOBKB3NZX I only do aluminium and I am the UK.

  • i dont know why im watching this

  • I am awarding you extra man card points

  • That looks awesome!

  • angry sandman at 3:54!---bottom left.

  • @joute12

    Some of us cannot afford that!!

  • you are an awsome human being!

  • Interesting, but a lot of work for this simple construction. Use a CNC mashine for this things.

  • thanks a lot it helped me 2 understand better than reading

  • @OreiZlatan Finished project can be seen in my video "Model Stickney hit and miss engine first run."

  • a little rough there at 5:05! jk

  • that's just hypnotic

  • what was the piece you were casting?

  • @bazengao Finished project can be seen in my video "Model Stickney hit and miss engine first run."

  • how many times can you use the moulding sand ?

  • @frxvt Can be uesd indefinatly.

  • what sand do u use

  • @ashlaughlin See the "Sand for Casting" page at myfordboy.blogspot.com

  • your the man

  • Extremely interessing video.

    I wonder how it is possible to the metal to cover all the "sand nucleus" (I don't know the right word), whereas it rests on the mold (due to gravity).

    And I'm sorry for my english, I'm french =)

  • @dedelerocker Please see my blog for the answer, metalcasting tips myfordboy.blogspot.com

  • @myfordboy Thank you !

  • The only odd thing I noticed about your whole process was the lack of pattern mating pins. I've never trusted stacking 2 mold halves on top of each other and hope they stay. Two small mating pins make sure they don't slide.

  • @solath All my patterns have to locating dowels, it would not be possible to ensure alignment without them.

  • @Populist1488 My sand is water bonded not oil bonded.

  • hwat metal hwere you casting? tin, aluminium or lead?

  • @MrOlekul Alumininum

  • @myfordboy lol isnt molten aluminium glowing red?

  • @MrOlekul no^^ the color of aluminium is silver at every temperature

  • @ROFLxD3000 not to be a dick, but it certainly is not. maby at the temps you are use to seeing it at, but rest asured it is NOT silver at all temps (expecially above its boiling pt), and also the color at higher temps is relevant to the amount of ambient light as to wether or not it looks red, orange, etc, etc. like at white hot but under an extremely bright light.. silver. though at low red heat in a dark room,.. red obviously. and above boiling pt, its vapor or plasma so nope

  • @myfordboy No, if its glowing red its way too hot for casting.

  • best video i've seen on the tube for a long time. Not talking, all visual showing. I like that alot

  • EXELENTE SOY DE ARGENTINA MUCHOS EXITOS Y ME GUSTARIA APRENDER TU OFICIO PARA PODER INDEPENDISARME ALGUN DIA UN SALUDO ENORME

  • this was just amazing to wach

  • Why didn't you just drill one large hole and use a band saw cutter to cut away that piece instead of wasting 2 hours to drill 100 holes..

  • That's amazing!

  • you look like you have some great casting sand. what mixture do you use?

  • @xxkittenkiller Its not a home made greensand but a foundry product.

  • Wkwrodburner I was doing this back in 1973 in Jr high.

    It's nice to see it still being done the simple way. I have a crucible furnace just don't the time to set it up. Good job.

  • While the pieces of the core are shown briefly, you never describe how you shaped, assembled, and positioned those pieces relative to one another and to the pattern. If the core is not a simple shape like a cylinder, and you want the casting to have an equal wall thickness, how do you achieve that?  How do you coordinate the shape of the inside (core) with the shape of the outside (pattern) of the casting? This topic may warrant a video of its own. I read your blog, but it didn't address this.

  • @bx2200 I am making a core box at the moment and have have been videoing the construction. I need to make the core and do the casting before I upload the video.

  • Great! Now I have to watch all the rest of your excellent videos.

    Charlie Ammen's The Metal Caster's Bible is my bedtime reader and your casting looks textbook.

    One of the best videos on YouTube.

  • @Navigator777777 thanks for the book name! Just picked it up on amazon for 10 bucks.

  • is sand used instead of for example silicone rubber because you can use it again and again? or does rubber simply not stand the heat?

  • @fauxgt Rubber would not be up to the temperatures involved.

  • part is only as good as the pattern its made from

  • @LYinKansas and if you ran a couple pieces of stiff wire to the core through the mold it would have saved you some machine time..

  • can you re use the green sand?

  • @lerpman1990 Can be used over and over.

  • you need a workbench. working at floor level is hard on knees and back

  • nice work

  • You should consider making a real power plant. May I suggest that one day you make a RBMK-1000. You could power your entire shop off it, and more. Just be careful when you throttle it down, RBMK-1000's get squirrly when at the lower end of the Mollier DIagram. Thanks for your vids. :)

  • wow that sand is amazing to stay in the frame without support.

    btw how did you shape the wooden mold?

  • @DanFrederiksen My videos part 15 and 22 show how i make the patterns.

  • wow truly art, i love your jobs, so much...

  • Very cool! Thanks for sharing

  • Incredible. Thanks for posting!

  • A person as talented as you must be very busy so thanks for taking time to look at all the comments posted. I have a lot of questions but here are some very general ones: Do you make all your wooden molds and boxes? With all the machines you have how much money do you think you spent ? what are the tools you use to make and engine of this size? How long sdid it take you to aquire all of these tools and knowlegde? I appriciate your time and would be upset if you cant respond so thanks!

  • @PyroRul3s The main tools for model engineering are the lathe and mill and a collection of hand tools. I make all the wooden patterns and flasks, you can see some being made in my videos.

    I have built up my tool collection over 30 years so would not like to estimate the cost.

  • STINKY 

  • I am from Ecuador, I was looking for something like this video many months ago, and finally I found it !! great job. In the world are few smart people, you belong to that group..... my regards!

  • This video says you use green sand, do you have to mull it at any time or do you simply add water?

  • @nealan1 I just sieve it and add water. If you are using homemade greensand it would need mulling.

  • wow!!!!! you are really a" can do" person.

  • CLASSICAL METAL

  • Hi, i have a question related to the quality of the aluminium, my father was like you

    a machinist, of the old school, he pass and left some aluminium rods made from scrap aluminium, i need to build a prop hub and i know that the foundry was right as i was the one who clean and remove the dirt and steel from the molten aluminium

    as i am not a metalurgic i want to know if the final aluminium will be a good metal to build the prop hub for an airboat, any clue? thanks

  • @MICMECMEXICALI I wouldn't like to recommend a home cast aluminium hub for the prop, there must be a lot of stress on that part if the blades are fixed to it.

  • wtfffffff i write metal guitar and i found this :(

  • Do you do brass casting for jewelry? I'd love to find someone who can cast pendants for me. Any help?

  • @tydel1985 I only have experience with aluminium

  • @myfordboy ...maybe any help as to, green sand or other DIY binding agents to make castings? (Detroit born and bred here, ford fan till the end!)

  • WOW. Looks like someone really know´s what he´s doing.

    Best home aluminium casting video i have seen so far!!

    Congratulations

  • You can use very fine beach sand and sodium silicate, but this requires special handling. When using sodium silicate, injecting carbon dioxide into the mold causes a reaction which hardens the mold instantly.

  • very informative. have to try this!

  • I just chanced upon this video. There's no sound on this PC so I don't know if there was a running commentary. It's just that four years ago I bought a foundry on ebaY (as you do) which was a whole lot bigger than I expected it to be. I never used it and was considering selling it but now I have decided to rig it all up and make something from melted down swarf. Great video... !

  • @R75Sidecar There is no commentary only captions and the background of singing birds and me working.

    Swarf is not the best thing to melt. It makes a lot of dross due to not much metal for surface area. Metal that has been cast before is best.

  • @R75Sidecar I get good sound for me, sorry.

    XP Pro in the UK.

    Sounds, pun intended, like you may need a Flash update

  • totally cool

  • I swear, you're video is awsome

  • Have you ever thought of adding a date code or something, your initials, etc. so in the future someone would know the part origin or date?

  • @handiest1 I always cast my name and year on some unseen part of the finished model.

  • You do the great things!! I won't get surprised if one day there come a 65 Ford Mustang in your workshop and just a week after it there a clone of it :D

  • Somebody needs some cutco scissors.

    

  • Comment removed

  • wow a lot better than loss wax.

  • Thank you for the awesome series. I have two questions:

    1- Can the lost foam method be used with this greensand method?

    2- Are the nodes (for lack of a better term) that protrude from the ends of the core making contact with the molded portion to keep it suspended and thus maintaining a consistent wall thickness in the final piece?

    Thank you again.

  • @CineGolem I have no experience of lost foam but understand that regular sand is used not greensand. The foam can be coated with a plaster before covering and the sand is comaritevley loose around the pattern.

    You are correct about the "nodes" The pattern has extra parts added called core prints which leave the recesses in the sand for core location.

  • @myfordboy your sand looks very black, is it mixed with something?

  • @Axbent No. It was dark brown but has darkened with use.

  • Thank you for the awesome series. I have two questions:

    1- Can the lost foam method be used with this greensand method?

    2-Are the nodes (for lack of a better term) that protrude from the ends of the core making contact with the molded portion to keep it suspended and thus maintaining a consistent wall thickness in the final piece?

    Thank you again.

  • I'm very impressed at the quality. You'd almost get away without machining it :)

    Also, I've never seen a furnace and crucible so clean!

  • Thank you very much for your series on foundry work & molding. You are an excellent craftsman.

    I was wondering why the core couldn't be made bigger so that you didn't have to drill/chisel the body section out.

    Thanks Again & Best Regards,

    Jon

  • @rcwarship To do it that way would be more difficult.. The pattern would need core prints added to the sides to make the cavity for the core and the extra part of the core would need to be perfectly aligned to get the apature in the right place. Only took a few minites to drill it out.

  • @myfordboy

    Ah yes, I could see where aligning the core would be a problem, you've already got a pretty complex set going on it now.

    Thanks again for your great series, I am learning a lot. I just completed my furnace & poured some ingots. I'm working on my first project now.

    Best Regards,

    Jon

  • on the job ..

    solid craftsmanship..

  • Excellent video.  Really well done and clear with no trashy musak (quite rare on youtube). Perfect for my Design Technology classes. Thanks

  • one hell of a skill trate

  • what the hell is moulding? you mean molding?

  • @joeratti That's how we spell it in the Uk. You say color we say colour.

  • @myfordboy silly me

  • can that used sand be used over and over?

  • @theron324 Yes. can be used for ever.

  • Briliant stuff!, thanks for posting this, long had a facination for metal casting

  • if i was to make an engine block mould and had enough metal would the final result be strong enough to bore out

  • @210482fmj Yes. No problem Its easily strong enough

  • Comment removed

  • I noticed when you were cutting the ingates that there are still angles in the mold that are not in a direct line with the opposite ingate. How do you avoid problems with air voids in the finished piece, or does putting enough metal in take care of the problem as long as there are no undercuts?

  • @iguanian I guess you mean that the riser is not at the the far end from the feeder.? On this one the riser is at the highest point on the pattern so air is vented from here. It was positioned there as this was a surface that was to be machined later. Its not essential to do this though it works ok if they are are at opposite sides and on the parting line. On small castings I may just have the one ingate and no riser. The extended risers I use give a good head of metal to fill the mould.

  • hi there can you tell me what type of sand your useing in the mold box ty

  • @slickster3100 This is "greensand" a natural bonded sand. Its from a foundry supplier. I am in the Uk so can't help with a supplier near you.

    It possible to make your own with bentonite clay and playand but I haven't had need to try this myself.

  • love your videos!

  • Great stuff. Do you make your own wood patterns? Thanks for posting.

  • @coriander2 Yes. you can see this in some of my videos.

  • Don't you glue the cores in?So it does not move?

  • @bfrance2002 The core cannot move. It is located in correct place by the shape left by the pattern called a core print. When the the two parts of the flask are closed it cannot move.

  • Just out of interest what is the object you made used for?

  • @Phrozius Its the engine block for a half size Stickney hit and miss engine. You can see it being machined in my later videos.

  • @myfordboy Ah I see.. great videos very interesting. Thanks :)

  • I want to make a plaque for ancestors with out head stones 1860s

    can you mix metals togeather say aluminium and brass

  • @TheMrTinker Brass and copper would make bronze. Its not usual to mix aluminium with brass. You would need to to reach a higher temerature than my furnace lining is designed for.

  • Have you tried lost foam? I could probably make that entire thing from drawing to casting in like 2-3 hours with lost foam. The lost foam process is cleaner and quicker than sand casting. I used to do sand casting and I will never go back unless I have to. With foam you can make all sorts of different shapes. No cope, no drag, just make it and pour it.

  • @hypoallergeni I haven't tried lost foam but I don't see how a foam pattern could be made at home with the amount of detail like lettering that I like to include without using CNC methods .Also if you need more castings you need to make another foam pattern.

  • Fascinating. You are very talented and this video is excellent. Thanks for posting. I've been trying to figure out how to do something like this-really helpful.

  • This has got to be the best one of all your videos i've seen so far - A man after my own heart!! A1.

  • Marvelous...rather like being Vulcan at his forge, ya know?

  • Simply awesome process... How do you remove the rest of the core?

  • Core can me dug out from holes in the casting ends. Breaks out easily.

  • fantastic job i learned something with your video

  • Great casting videos!

    Thanks a lot for you efforts and for sharing!

  • Ah, so talc works well as a dusting powder? Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't talc absorb moisture out of the sand?

  • Works well for me. Doesn't seem to effect the sand, its only a very thin coating.

  • The little amount that it will absorb wouldn't make any difference to the mold. I have used graphite, ground up brick and silicon spray. I try not to use silicon spray too much just in case it coats too much sand/clay and stops it from sticking causing the mold to fall apart. It does work though..

  • How do you get the sand cores centered? It seems like they would sit on the bottom of the mold, leading to one side being very thin and the other side thick.

  • There are 3 location points added to the pattern known as core prints. These leave a void in the sand to support the core in the correct location. You can see this at 4:40.

  • i there were do you get your casting sand from?

  • I was given mine but I would try John Winter & co ltd who adveritise in Model Engineer as suppliers. You can get a free catalogue. Google will find them.

  • Have you run into and Laws/Bylaws/Annoying Neighbors that frown on doing this kind of stuff in town?

  • I live in the country! I wouldn't worry though its no more halmfull than a barbeque.

  • How do keep the core centered in the mold?

  • If you compare the pattern with the finished casting you will see the two parts of the pattern when fitted together have 3 extra round sections on the ends. These are the CORE PRINTS and form impresions in the sand to locate the core in the correct place.

  • that is prity cool i do it in school and it turns out good but yours is nice

  • If you're looking for more video ideas, I'd love to see more of the machining process. Great videos, please keep them coming!

  • Ok I'll see what I can do.

  • what is that

  • Its the engine block for a half size Stickney engine model.

  • Great series I watched 1-10, I was very impressed!!

  • exquisite

  • Congratulations, great work! I'm from Brazil I'm starting a home foundry.

  • Keep up the great work !

  • I like your videos very much, very informative. Thanks for showing some mistakes.

    I just wish you wouldn't talk so much. Ha

  • Yes, some insight to your post-casting work would be interesting as well. This is an excellent companion to the Lindsay books I have purchased in the past.

    A picture may be worth a thousand words, but a video like this is priceless!

    Cheers,

  • Great work.  just wondering what material do you use to form the core? is it the same sand mixture or do you use a core binder?

  • I show how this is made in video number 5

  • Beautiful work once again. 5 stars!!!

    I was wondering... Instead of cutting out the panel on each side to remove the core, why didn't you just make it part of the core?

  • Good point.

    To do it that way would be more difficult.. The pattern would need core prints added to the sides to make the cavity for the core and the extra part of the core would need to be perfectly aligned to get the apature in the right place. Only took a few minites to drill it out.

  • This has got to be the best series on metal casting that has been published for the amateur foundryman.

    I take my hat off to you for your skills in turning scrap into great pieces of engineering with limited facilities.

    Thanks for sharing .:)

  • Great vid!!!! Your videos keep getting better and better!

  • Looks like its stickney time ! Godd engines