Added: 5 years ago
From: TheWoodWhisperer
Views: 118,365
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  • i read an article once about jointing with a table saw. you put a sacrificial fence on your saw and raise the blade up into it. then behind the blade, you put a thin piece of wood the width of the exposed blade and keep the board straight to that to joint an edge

  • Hi. According to this, especially the end of this video, I am decided about to build my own CNC router base. :-) Realize that feeling of timber perfectly flattening itself automatically during my coffe break :-) heh

  • I have a problem; whenever I use my jointer it creates a "wedge" shaped board, has anyone ran into this before? Email; justicejamesb@gmail.com

  • @LFWOL I try to avoid saying things like "always" and "never" in woodworking, lol. Always lands me in hot water. 99% of the time I go with the concave side down. But there are some instance where its more effective to go with the convex side down. Primary, with a thinner piece that just by virtue of pushing across the jointer, flattens out "artificially" from your hand pressure.

  • 11:13 I really don't understand this point - if the timber is too wide to go through your jointer as it is, how does glueing it to an even wider board help?

  • @danebdon because we are sending it through the planer, not the jointer.

  • @danebdon really how does that help

  • Good video, but I have to point out that your use of the word coplaner is incorrect.

    Two planes can be parallel, but to be coplaner would mean that the board has zero thickness.

  • With cups, I always have to put the convex side down. But I have to do it the other way with bows and twists. If I don't, I always find that the little bit of downward pressure I put on the board is enough (especially with long/thin boards) to press the center of the board flat only for it to spring back up to being bowed slightly. If I do it the other way, I don't put any pressure on the high spots (the ends) and those basically "float" over the knives and make the face come out perfectly flat.

  • If one's jointer is jumping, are its bearing defective? :-)

  • @ChrisBowlas If its jumping too much, return it. :)

  • You Rock Dude!

  • I would be hesitant to mark my boards with chalk. I don't know the hardness of chalk but to have it infiltrate the ways and/or bearings of my jointer could (again, depending upon the hardness) wear the machined surfaces prematurely.

  • @hotwheelsp

    I doubt that it would do any damage; for the chalk to mark the timber, it must be softer than the timber!

    If you are still concerned, though, use a soft 3B graphite pencil.

  • thanks marc for this informative and detailed video. It is a great help for me to carry out lessons regarding jointing clearly...

  • Another great video Marc. Keep up the good work. Check out what we build sometime at.BradleyBrandFurniture com

  • Woodwhisperer---do you have a video on ways to turn your table saw into a jointer?

  • @carykong Only what you saw in this video.

  • hey marc, ive watched a few of your videos and they are very detailed. i hope i can learn some new skills from these videos for use in my yr9 timer class.

    i found your tenon tecnique very fast and easy, where as i have to use the chisel in class

  • hey marc thanks this is a very informative video especially for me i am a former cabinet shop worker who neccesarily doesnt learn fundamentals to build the cabinets more assembly line style woodworking so htank you again and keep the videos coming hey also I am from phx born and raised but now I live in tx

  • very good presentation, goingto send link to son-in-law who is a new wood worker. keep up the good work!

  • Marc, these videos are well done and very imformative! I will make sure to look at the Woodwhisperer Store next time I'm making a purchase online.

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