Added: 5 years ago
From: themorfill
Views: 10,605
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  • God grief. I'm sacred watching it. A little known fact is that the lead climber is a very good song writer/singer.

  • it used to be an E1 but got downgraded to HVS, well done on leading it mate. i seconded the climb bout 7 years ago, fuckin loved it. love stanage

  • great (Y)

  • nice

  • Awesome vid, that is not easy to do.

  • Nice! Good route, good tunes : ) Gratz : )

  • this looks so fun! I wish i wasn't such an amateur and knew something about gear placement! going up the peaks soon though, time to learn!

  • haha i cant believe thats your first lead!!, i can never find the right gear placements anyway, i had to lower off a severe cos i couldnt do it!!!!but i did get a bout 10 m up it

  • Hi there, just thought I would explain, This is not my first lead, but it is my first lead of this route.

  • HVS Sonny Jim!!!

  • @kitcooper80 E1 for disbelievers lol, dont know what it means, its from the on peak rock book but thats really old

  • Cool

  • Fantastic route and great video. Makes me want to dig my old gear out and lose three stone! Led it three times in the early eighties, plus a failed solo when I bombed at the crux and badly sprained both ankles at the bottom of the the slab. Graded HVS in those days but probably a bit rounded off now I'd guess. Happy memories. Jim

  • Doesn't matter what grade it is. It's a quality route.

  • A great climb, havn't lead a route yet, but hopefully that will be my first! Well in!!!

  • I wouldn't recommend this as a first lead!!

  • Neither would I...

  • lol

    i wouldnt even want to do the VDiff classic rock flying buttress as a first lead =P that mantleshelf at the top always gets my heart racing anyway xD

  • In 'on peak rock' BMC guidebook its a HVS 5b, but either way its still a great lead certainly gets the old ticker pumping!

  • Re: On Peak Rock Guidebook...........Yeah I remember that from years ago.....It was the new on that arrived and scared people with it's photos! Sadly, most of the grades were stolen from the old Peak Guide, if not the even older Paul Nunn guide! Nice book for the pics....Sadly way out of date! I'd rate FB direct at Solid E1 5b/c

  • Great Lead M8,

    It's been 20 years since I did that route as my 2nd E1...nice to see the hands not nervously dipping into the chalk bag...Quietus, The Sloth, Wallaby Direct, etc...etc...all classics and do' a' ble by you now...

    Safe climbing and sunny daze

  • blinding lead,ive just bought stanage the definitive guide,its an E1 5b just as you said.... wish i could climb that route.Well done that man...

  • err it's not e1,hvs i think you'll find

  • Depends which guide book you read. It's E1 in my Rockfax Guide and that's good enough for me.

  • hvs in mine,i'm not complaining

  • The "sigh" of relief at the end always puts a smile on my face. That was a great day - hope to see more of the Morfill out on the crags in the summer of '07...get training dude!

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