@leloodallasmultipass Watched youtube videos and signed up for Dukes4monny's paid video training - it was cheap and very helpful. Tormach also has more youtube videos available now.
I love this machine my only concern is its feedrate speed. Can this machine go faster in G00 or your stuck with a max speed of 90ipm? Please let me know, thanks. Loves your vids BTW
@Trajiq187 Spend some time on tormach.com - they have a plethora of information, spec sheets and white papers available which cover details like tis. Yes, max is 90ipm. If you're concerned about that 'limitation' versus a VMC rapids of 450+, then read their white paper on the PCNC design - rapid movement doesn't save that much time in a standard machining operation.
@saunixcomp Hey thanks for the reply. Yeah i know it doesnt safe a lot of time because you have to respect rpms and feedrates when cutting anyways, but i would like it to go faster between operations. I was wondering if its possible to upgrade it like swaping the step motors or something. I'm currently working on a Mazak at school and im just used to it i guess lol. I do not expect a mazak out of a tormach either but was just wondering. Cheers
May I suggest when the thickness of the material warrants you consider using screw length drill bits such as on page 26 of the Enco catalog rather than the jobber length you are currently using? They are so much stiffer that you'll get accurate location without the spotting operation, and most of the time you'll also get accurate diameter and not have to use intermediate drills.
P.S. It seems YouTube won't let me post the link to the Enco page.
@odonatas2 Noted re: screw instead of jobber. I've always been a fan of spot drilling & find that using a 1/8" pilot (which are cheap) helps save the tip and provides for better feeds & speeds with larger diameter drill. An even better option is using a 3/16" or 1/4" carbide spotting drill which can spot, pilot, chamfer, etc - and is plenty stiff.
You can post a link to enco if you remove the "htp://ww" part [spelled incorrectly so youtube would let me post]
@magnum164 Yes, I have hand deburring tools. When I said I couldn't deburr the contour of the part, it's because the CAD had a different contour profile than the CAM output because I didn't program the end mill radius' in the CAD...
Hey, Thanks a million for your effort and dedication and your sincere willingness to help other guys like us out there. That's really "human" - which is a rare feature.
Couple of questions : 1) why not use a lubricant spray ? We were always taught that Alum. binds with cutting tools and that even the thinnest layer of WD40, plain kerosene or even turps would improve the cutting dramatically. 2) and that's cosmetic : why do you raise the 1/2" end mill during the return path than drop it again?
@Metalloys I am using a coolant system - it's a Trico MD-1200 misting system with synthetic coolant. As for the 1/2" end mill - it's just the CAM default. always safer to return to a safe level for rapid moves...
@saunixcomp you're a rare Gem. Really. You dont find many people like you these days. Truly. Thanks a lot for taking the time to answer my silly questions.
P.S. I can tell that you are becoming a bit of a phenomenon on u-tube, very similar to Tubalcane - look him up - legend.
P.S.#2 Curiosity : 1) r u an engineer ? 2) wealthy, and do this as hobby ? 3) have another job ? 4) hours u spend / day @cnc ? Pls. ignore if this is considered rude or offends you in the least. I respect u ...
@Metalloys I've see all of Tubalcain's videos :) Yes, I am an engeering and no, this is not a hobby. We do a lot of prototyping work for start up ventures as well as design-for-manufacturing work. Our favorite customers are those who need someone who understands both the machining and engineering side as well as the business and marketing side.
Once again wonderful presentation. I do question a step or 2. First, why not fly cut the part prior to any other process? During the squaring of the stock? Second, why not use a chamfer bit (or the tip of a drill) around the entire perimeter and interior of all cuttings. Last, why not a simple fixture or spoil board to securely fasten and flip the part? Purely curious, love your work and you are progressing very rapidly. Excellent and good luck as always.
@CncObsession No need to fly cut it prior to starting. I couldn't use a chamfer bit to debur because my CAD model didn't include the same profile as the CAM because I handled the tool offsets in CAM. Next time, I'll program the part in CAD exactly as it will appear in the CAM which will allow me to chamfer the edges.
Why not fixture to a spoil board? Because I think the vise method is easier (wth the downside of it leaving more scrap).
Good stuff. I was really looking forward to seeing some parts come out! I too have found that GWizards HP estimate is not a good way to set the feeds/speeds. My little X3 starts to dismantle itself if the projected HP is over 0.15hp despite having a (true)0.6HP motor
Nice little project to get started on the new Tormach. I think I will look in to getting a second vice for my mill after seeing your set up in action. The tumbler appeared to round off the corners very well. Nice work.
@ray5961 No - not your imagination. There is some play in it; I think it is OK because the tapped holes are a very nice fit. It may just by a byproduct of the tension/compression mechanism. Since it's floating, it should still follow the hole just fine.
You sure are wasting no time in putting your new machine to work! This is another great tutorial. Thanks for sharing you shop and new machine with us.
Nice job! That long handle that comes with the vise is rather clumsy and on a bridgeport it could get stuck in the ways and damage them. I noticed you left it on your vise when running the program the only negative I could tell from that was that it would wear on the paint of the stand. I have one of those Kurt speed handles on my vise and love it. I really enjoy your videos and like seeing how you attack work holding. Thanks for allowing us into your shop.
how did you learn how to use sprutcam?
leloodallasmultipass 1 week ago
@leloodallasmultipass Watched youtube videos and signed up for Dukes4monny's paid video training - it was cheap and very helpful. Tormach also has more youtube videos available now.
saunixcomp 1 week ago
I love this machine my only concern is its feedrate speed. Can this machine go faster in G00 or your stuck with a max speed of 90ipm? Please let me know, thanks. Loves your vids BTW
Trajiq187 1 week ago
@Trajiq187 Spend some time on tormach.com - they have a plethora of information, spec sheets and white papers available which cover details like tis. Yes, max is 90ipm. If you're concerned about that 'limitation' versus a VMC rapids of 450+, then read their white paper on the PCNC design - rapid movement doesn't save that much time in a standard machining operation.
saunixcomp 1 week ago
@saunixcomp Hey thanks for the reply. Yeah i know it doesnt safe a lot of time because you have to respect rpms and feedrates when cutting anyways, but i would like it to go faster between operations. I was wondering if its possible to upgrade it like swaping the step motors or something. I'm currently working on a Mazak at school and im just used to it i guess lol. I do not expect a mazak out of a tormach either but was just wondering. Cheers
Trajiq187 1 week ago
Great Vid!!
DalesTec 1 month ago
@DalesTec Thanks!
saunixcomp 1 month ago
May I suggest when the thickness of the material warrants you consider using screw length drill bits such as on page 26 of the Enco catalog rather than the jobber length you are currently using? They are so much stiffer that you'll get accurate location without the spotting operation, and most of the time you'll also get accurate diameter and not have to use intermediate drills.
P.S. It seems YouTube won't let me post the link to the Enco page.
odonatas2 1 year ago
@odonatas2 Noted re: screw instead of jobber. I've always been a fan of spot drilling & find that using a 1/8" pilot (which are cheap) helps save the tip and provides for better feeds & speeds with larger diameter drill. An even better option is using a 3/16" or 1/4" carbide spotting drill which can spot, pilot, chamfer, etc - and is plenty stiff.
You can post a link to enco if you remove the "htp://ww" part [spelled incorrectly so youtube would let me post]
saunixcomp 1 year ago
You mention you can't deburr the contour of the part. Have you tried using a Mango(Shaviv)? You can get them from Enco and are great on contours.
nice work, I need to make one for my Tormach now.
magnum164 1 year ago
@magnum164 Yes, I have hand deburring tools. When I said I couldn't deburr the contour of the part, it's because the CAD had a different contour profile than the CAM output because I didn't program the end mill radius' in the CAD...
saunixcomp 1 year ago
Hey, Thanks a million for your effort and dedication and your sincere willingness to help other guys like us out there. That's really "human" - which is a rare feature.
Couple of questions : 1) why not use a lubricant spray ? We were always taught that Alum. binds with cutting tools and that even the thinnest layer of WD40, plain kerosene or even turps would improve the cutting dramatically. 2) and that's cosmetic : why do you raise the 1/2" end mill during the return path than drop it again?
Metalloys 1 year ago
@Metalloys I am using a coolant system - it's a Trico MD-1200 misting system with synthetic coolant. As for the 1/2" end mill - it's just the CAM default. always safer to return to a safe level for rapid moves...
saunixcomp 1 year ago
@saunixcomp you're a rare Gem. Really. You dont find many people like you these days. Truly. Thanks a lot for taking the time to answer my silly questions.
P.S. I can tell that you are becoming a bit of a phenomenon on u-tube, very similar to Tubalcane - look him up - legend.
P.S.#2 Curiosity : 1) r u an engineer ? 2) wealthy, and do this as hobby ? 3) have another job ? 4) hours u spend / day @cnc ? Pls. ignore if this is considered rude or offends you in the least. I respect u ...
Metalloys 1 year ago
@Metalloys I've see all of Tubalcain's videos :) Yes, I am an engeering and no, this is not a hobby. We do a lot of prototyping work for start up ventures as well as design-for-manufacturing work. Our favorite customers are those who need someone who understands both the machining and engineering side as well as the business and marketing side.
saunixcomp 1 year ago
Once again wonderful presentation. I do question a step or 2. First, why not fly cut the part prior to any other process? During the squaring of the stock? Second, why not use a chamfer bit (or the tip of a drill) around the entire perimeter and interior of all cuttings. Last, why not a simple fixture or spoil board to securely fasten and flip the part? Purely curious, love your work and you are progressing very rapidly. Excellent and good luck as always.
CncObsession 1 year ago
@CncObsession No need to fly cut it prior to starting. I couldn't use a chamfer bit to debur because my CAD model didn't include the same profile as the CAM because I handled the tool offsets in CAM. Next time, I'll program the part in CAD exactly as it will appear in the CAM which will allow me to chamfer the edges.
Why not fixture to a spoil board? Because I think the vise method is easier (wth the downside of it leaving more scrap).
saunixcomp 1 year ago
Good stuff. I was really looking forward to seeing some parts come out! I too have found that GWizards HP estimate is not a good way to set the feeds/speeds. My little X3 starts to dismantle itself if the projected HP is over 0.15hp despite having a (true)0.6HP motor
kingjamez80 1 year ago
Nice little project to get started on the new Tormach. I think I will look in to getting a second vice for my mill after seeing your set up in action. The tumbler appeared to round off the corners very well. Nice work.
zippy308 1 year ago
Now I see why you wanted two vises! Very nice work!
BuickDoc 1 year ago
nice tools thats great. i am jelouse :)
camochannel1 1 year ago
it is just my imagination or is the taping head thing out of round?
ray5961 1 year ago
@ray5961 No - not your imagination. There is some play in it; I think it is OK because the tapped holes are a very nice fit. It may just by a byproduct of the tension/compression mechanism. Since it's floating, it should still follow the hole just fine.
saunixcomp 1 year ago
You sure are wasting no time in putting your new machine to work! This is another great tutorial. Thanks for sharing you shop and new machine with us.
Roy Lewis Atlanta, Georgia USA
rlewis1946 1 year ago
@rlewis1946 No problem. Roy!
saunixcomp 1 year ago
man it must be great to be able to sit back and watch the machine make a part.
alehax27 1 year ago
Nice job! That long handle that comes with the vise is rather clumsy and on a bridgeport it could get stuck in the ways and damage them. I noticed you left it on your vise when running the program the only negative I could tell from that was that it would wear on the paint of the stand. I have one of those Kurt speed handles on my vise and love it. I really enjoy your videos and like seeing how you attack work holding. Thanks for allowing us into your shop.
crashes3221 1 year ago
@crashes3221 Thanks for the tip - I'll be sure to keep the handle off the vise next time...
saunixcomp 1 year ago
Thanks. That was very Informative.
sandwon 1 year ago
awesome you cant beat a bit of DIY
ryanstewart86 1 year ago