A question if I may - I made the table for the fipple much deeper than 1/32", I am about 3/32". I do get the intended C4 when blowing very softly, with a little C5 included that too quickly takes over if I blow a little harder and if I blow moderately it becomes C6.
I wonder do I have too much air going over the fipple? Should I make the fipple larger?
@NebanHerrera First, by blowing faster and getting the next octave, that is essentially how this type of flute works. So it's close to it functioning correctly. Next, I would try to move the sleeve either up or down and try it each way. Usually when the sleeve is closer to the 2nd square hole, you'll get the higher octaves but not lower. Move the sleeve up and you get the lower octave but it's more difficult to get the upper. Find a good middle point.
@modeeb2 Thanks, the sleeve placement is a lot fussier than I expected. I may have made matters worse by trying to get a C Arabian scale with the lowest fingerhole being 1/8" diameter which seems to be very sensitive to airflow. Next I will try a really large spacing to the lowest fingerhole so it is at least 0.25" and I will make a shallower fipple table as I think it is adding some noise and making it more sensitive than it should be.
@NebanHerrera Yeah, you are correct that the the lowest hole can't be smaller than .025 but also, be certain which C octave you're starting on. If you use a lower C octave, the flute gets longer, making finger holes further apart and the longer length begins to exceed what the 3/4 inch diameter flute can handle. I made a low D flute that sounded pretty good on about 5 notes, it wouldn't play any of the higher notes. You should be able to make a Phrygian scale (Arabian) with no problem though.
@modeeb2 Yes the one I have had trouble with is a C4 261.63Hz I am looking at G4 this time with minimum 0.25" fingerholes. It took quite a bit a tweaking on Flutomat but I almost got 1" between all holes except the lowest. The scale I like is very close to the Arabic Phrygian gypsy scale it is the Arabic Byzantine scale where the 2nd and 6th notes are lowered a semitone.
In your superb PVC Flute Demo is this a G4 lowest note flute?
@NebanHerrera Yes, with all fingers down the lowest not is G4, 392 Hz.
Nice deal on using the Flutomat and getting the correct holes sizes and separation. Some wooden flutes also drill their holes "diagonally" (at an angle) so that the hole spacing is more even for the fingers, yet from inside the flute, they are spaced for tuning. This takes some practice but works pretty good. You can also file a hole very slightly to tune that note flatter if needed.
@manrayer88 A bonafide, modern day flute is actually closed on the mouthpiece end. There's a plug inside that is moved up or down for fine tuning. But really, they're both open in a sense on both ends, air goes in at the top and exits the bottom (sort of).
They're both cylindrical instruments however and may have similar wave forms but I think blowing air over a hole vs the reed is what makes the most noticable difference.
These type of flutes are very limited, but easy to play.
Alternately
A none-fipple flute from PVC gives you a wide range of expression in pitch, volume, and timbre, especially in comparison to fipple/ducted flutes, but is much harder to learn.
hey ive been trying to make pvc flutes and also bamboo flutes. ive just started out and have been using the quena end blown technique. ive been wandering how to apply the flutomat calculations to my flute, is the embouchure hole simple where i would have the mouth end of the flute or do i need to work out the fingerholes a different way?? im having trouble on the tuning side please help meee! :)
@Jophisn Yes, in fact the Flutomat is actually referring to the hole you blow air over in a traverse flute. So in your case, you'll disregard the part about making the two upper square holes but everything from the embouchure hole down to the end of the flute will still apply.
Hi! Your tutorial was very helpful and I created a flute of my own based on your video and it works very well :] However, when I play it, it sounds pretty soft. Any ideas on what is causing this or how to improve this? Thanks!
@chelidog2247 Two things. Experiment with the sleeve closer or further to the square hole that air passes over. This is the larger of the two square holes. I notice that closer makes the upper notes play easier at the loss of the lower register. Move the sleeve up and the low notes play better. Try the sleeve edge about 1/8" away from the square hole.
2nd, low notes are always played soft on flute. It's the nature of the flute. Make sure your fingers cover the holes completely also. Good Luck.
@edgarwazhear I think it's the nature of the way plumbing stuff is measured. I've measured the PVC that has 3/4" printed on the side, but there's no dimension that is actually 3/4".
The .824 is two measurements inside in order to get an average since PVC is frequently slightly oval. But still, nothing on 3/4" PVC is actually 3/4 of an inch. Strange.
@modeeb2 It appears you have filed a ramp from the trailing edge of the blow hole up to the table in addition to the 45 degree undercut of the fipple trailing edge. Is this so? If so, what is the purpose? Does it improve performance of the flute? I've built a prototype E flute per your instructional videos and comments. It works very well. I've got the specs tweaked for hole spacing and offsets to better fit my hands for the second attempt. Should be very comfortable. Thanks in advance.
@TFarmer49 That ramp helps to "direct" the airflow downward and create a uniform flow of air. I haven't tried not using that but it's possible the air would still flow sufficiently downward. Plus, it may create a venturi effect where the air travels from a larger-to-smaller section which speeds the air up slightly.
Tweaking the holes for betting finger orientation is one of the better things to do. Definitely makes it more comfortable to play. Thanks for the comment.
In the still frame with your flute's specs, is the length from the blow end to the center of the fipple hole including the extra 1" pipe that you seem to add onto that end in pt 2 before playing?
@supersully78 Good question. That measurement does NOT include the extra pvc fitting. However having said that, the length "above" the 2 square holes will not significantly effect the tone. You mainly need to have enough to create the table and a little more so that the sleeve will completely seal the back side and not let air leak out backwards.
@jennyswei Whichever note you pick to make your flute, use the Flutomat website calculator to figure out the length. I would try to persuade you "not" to use the middle C from the piano (261.63 Hz), because the flute will be so long and the finger holes so far apart that it will be quite difficult to actually play. Choose the C that is one octave higher (523.25 Hz) which would make a flute apprx. 11" inches long. The exact length will depend on the dimensions of the tubing you have.
Great video, however, I'm a little confused about the measurement of the table. when it says 2-3/16 x 13/32, what does the 13/32 mean? wasn't the specs for the width of the table already given? 17/32? And how far away should the beginning of the table be from the blow end of the flute? Thanks!
3) In addition to the notes being too low, when I play the flute, certain notes (especially the F, G, and A) will jump down an octave. Is this just due to the way I breathe or is it an error I made in making the flute?
Thanks for your informational video! I am currently making a C flute and have three questions:
1) After drilling holes, if I were to play my C flute without fingering any notes, should it play a C? or should it play the 7th note of the scale, a B?
2) After making my flute, all the notes sounded kind of flat. How do I fine tune the flute and make notes sharper or flatter?
@chelidog2247 (1st) With no fingers covering any holes on a "C" flute, you will play a "B", the 7th. To get the C, one octave above the lowest note, you put all fingers down but speed up the air (blow slightly harder). (2nd). To make the flute slightly sharper, you would cut a small amount from the lower end, like an 1/8th of an inch. (3rd) I'm not positive about notes dropping down, adjust both your air speed and the sleeve's distance to the fipple hole either up or down from the fipple hole.
Thanks for your helpful tutorial! My friend and I used it to make a C flute. The notes all came out slightly flat, however, and we're wondering if it's because we didn't follow the Flutomat directions correctly.
To clarify, does the length labeled as "Calculated Distance from End of Flute for the Embouchure Hole" indicate the length of the entire piece of PVC or the length from the fipple hole to the end of the flute?
@MewxRetasu The calculated distance is not the entire length. Only from the bottom of the flute up to the "center" hole (apprx). Secondly, if the pvc tube itself and/or the air temp is cold, it could play slightly flat until it warms up. Otherwise, I often have to cut a little off the bottom end to bring it into pitch. Like 1/8th of an inch off the end. You may have to do it more than once, but only take off a little at a time. Good Luck.
@MewxRetasu Yeah, if it doesn't come out like you want, sometimes the best way to go is to examine the first one and then be even more precise with a 2nd or 3rd flute. When I first make the flute (before drilling the figure holes), I cut it slightly long to make it flat. Then I tune it just ever so slightly flat (I mean barely flat) because when you drill the holes, it can get a little bit sharper. After drilling the holes it should be 'very' close in tune.
great video i have a question i have made the pvc native american style flute from the video then i tried makeing on out of bamboo an i am getting no sound what am i doing wrong is the deminions the same for the flipple or not with the wood native american style flutes or different ? do you have you best measurenents that i can try on wood or bamboo
@ikbbowyer Do you mean you get sound out of the pvc flute but you don't get sound out of the bamboo? The measurements would be the same provided the bamboo has the exact same inside diameter and the same wall thickness. But if the raw bamboo tube is different, then you will have to recalculate the entire thing. The 'table' and two square holes would be the same. Bamboo is uneven though, so you may be getting leaks if you try to copy a pvc flute.
@TheGuitaross Strictly speaking, the embouchure is the shape you make with your lips to create the sound. On the Flutomat website, it referrs to the larger of the two square holes at the top of the flute (2nd hole from the "top"). The 0.5 diameter is given for a round hole for a flute played from the side. On the pvc flute, the larger square hole should have apprx. the same "area" as a round hole.
Flutomat gives the distance from the bottom of the flute to that larger square hole.
@TheGuitaross Good question. I measured from the bottom of the flute up to the "center" of the lower square hole. I was not able to find much conclusive info on that question though. Wouldn't hurt to look around Google too. If you find something substantial, post back. Otherwise, just measure to the center of the hole. I drilled my pilot hole (starter hole) figuring the center and then filed outwards to make the square hole centered.
@TheGuitaross On a flute, you 'over blow' which allows you to play an octave higher (some times two octaves higher). However even like a silver metal flute, the volume will be softer at low frequencies and louder at higher frequencies. It's just the nature of the instrument. Professional players can obviously reduce this some.
So basically you get your first 6 low notes, then the 7th note is all fingers up, then all fingers down and over blow, to get the next octave and beyond.
I need to build a C flute however range of the flute has to be from F3 (175 Hz) to G5 (784 Hz) is there a simple way to build this out of PVC...? Because there is a wide range of notes.
@Cvilleswetheart8 I don't believe the 'normal' flute instructions will work on a flute that low in freq. 1st, on a bass flute, you need extension rods to reach the holes that would be too far down the flute for your hand to reach. Also, because of the low freq., the finger holes will be too far apart for your fingers to cover. Lastly, the physics of a tube seem to change with increased size, which is why I think it may not work as predicted.
i made one; however, the sound is airy and doesn't really have a deep tone. any tips to make it louder without changing octaves? how do i get the sound to be "full"?
@funyummyful Could be any number of things that makes it airy sounding. Assuming all the holes are the correct size and distance from the end of the flute (especially the two square holes at the top), I would first slide the top sleeve closer or further away from the square hole that it directs air over. Second, virtually all flutes are played louder in the upper octaves and much softer in the lower octave. It's the nature of flutes. What key did you make your flute?
@modeeb2 i made it in the key of C, i think i'll make another one and make more precise measurements. also, how did you make the "table"? i used a file and its not great, what power tool did you use?
Thanks for your quick response! I got the table and the holes drilled and its playing. I cut it short and Im going to make it in the key of c which ended up making it 26 inches long. The lowest note I can play is a c at 523hz, but when I type in the frequencies in to the fluteomat its saying that it should only be 11 inches long. Should I tune the flute to its lowest note or what?
@stang67yo Typically, you have to cut the flute and tune the lowest note with "no" finger holes drilled. Once tuned you drill the holes measuring from the bottom up. When I choose the lowest C (261.63 Hz) in Flutomat it comes up with about 24", however getting the lowest note will require very soft, slow blowing air. So it's possible that the flute is out of tune just enough that you're not able to play the lower octave.
It may be that having drilled the holes first, you won't get it tuned.
@stang67yo So, I would input your pvc thickness and choose the lowest "C" in Flutomat, then cut the tube. I would then also measure from the bottom up to the lowest finger hole and see if it matches the Flutomat chart. Flutomat says the lowest hole would be 4.5 inches from the bottom. Otherwise you may have to start over. Figure out the key you want, make the table and square holes, if it plays, then start cutting the bottom off until it's tuned to the lowest note. Then drill the finger holes.
@stang67yo There's no actual mthpiece. But you do have to create that flat "table" part I show in the video where the two square holes are made. I used a router for that but you could also to it with a simple flat file (but it will take a while).
There is also a flute that requires very few tools on Youtube called, Junk Dojo. He makes one in around 3 minutes with very few tools. You could probably adapt that model and add the finger holes I believe.
@fohbizness4520 I used 3/4" pvc however, when you get it home you'll need to measure the wall thickness and the inside diameter pretty accurately (if you're using the Flutomat website to calculate). I would say at least down to a 32nd of an inch if not a 64th of an inch. Also, since pvc tubing is probably not perfectly round, I would measure the inside diameter both up & down and side-to-side to get an average diameter for Flutomat. More accurate that way.
@modeeb2 thx fo ur quick reponse.I also have two other questions.is there specific tool i should use to measure the inside of the pipe and for the sleeve cut pipe and other piece you used to attach near the square holes are they suppose to be 1" in diameter?
@fohbizness4520 I wouldn't say there's a specific tool. I have a metal ruler that goes down to 1/64th of an inch so it's pretty accurate. Just really zoom in with your eyes and notice if the diameter falls in between or right on the ruler marks.
The sleeve was cut from a piece of 1" pvc (you can buy 1-2 ft. sections, so little cost), then slit the sleeve lengthwise to fit over the flute. The top part (mouthpiece) isn't absolutely essential to play. It's a 3/4" pvc coupler (about .75 cents).
Hey thanks for responding so quickly yesterday. However i have one more question. I am doing the math to find the measurements for which we drill the holes and i dont know where to measure from to find the length of the pipe. Thanks for your time.
@spenser902 Most everything is measured from the bottom up, from where the air exits the flute at the bottom. On Flutomat, the very top number calculated is the "embouchure," which is the 2nd square hole "from the top." Be aware though, that if the Flutomat says your flute should be say, 18" long, that's only from the bottom of the flute up to the embouchure (or lower square hole). You still need at least several more inches at the top for the 1st square hole and the mouthpiece area.
I would like to make this flute. Can you tell me how fare from the end of the flute you started the router? I do not care what end you come from but just let me know the measurements. I also under stand the 2-3/16" but what is the 13/32" for? This is on your blue prints form your video. I think I have a all the other information. Can you help me out here? Thanks Slick
What are the specs you used for the g dorian scale? yours sounds terrific. I am making one for a jazz musician and would love to duplicate what youve done
@akplayer2 By specs, do you mean the particular notes for the Dorian scale or the placement of the tone holes etc.? To find the Dorian scale for any note, simply use the major key signature from the note a whole step below. So for a G-Dorian scale, you would use the key signature from the F major scale (i.e. one flat). So G-G with a Bb.
The tuner is helpful in tuning guitars, i have a pitch pipe, but if you can't hear it, you can match frequencies and get closer with an electronic tuner or pitch pipe
How long would you cut an 8 hole pipe? Also, how far away from the mouth or beginning of pipe (without the coupling) is the routered table? Thanks! Your video is great!
What first comes to mind is the complexity of trumpet valves, moving between the various lengths of tubing. Also as you may know, a trumpet is 'tapered' or conical bore instrument. The acoustical properties are different than what's called a 'straight pipe' like a flute for instance. While you may with some difficulty be able to construct valves, the cylindrical bore of PVC would not and could not produce the sound of a bonafide trumpet.
How long is the 1" dia. sleeve? How wide a slot or amount cut out of sleeve? Or just cut lengthwise and not really moving a portion of sleeve plastic? Are table end dimensions 13/32" (mouth end) & 17/32" (downstream) diameters so is tapered and not true rectangular area with same rounded ends? Or is both dimensions same diameter? Fantastic! Loved videos! Making flutes for my grandkids.
My sleeve is 1 1/2" long but what's important is that it completely covers that table cut-out behind the top hole (no air leaking backwards). The slot in the sleeve can be very narrow. It just allows it to expand to fit over the 3/4 PVC.
The table is a 'true rectangle. The top square hole is 13/32 wide & the 2nd hole is 7/16" wide. But the table is rectangular and is 9/16" wide (edge-to-edge).
On the finished flute it's 15 3/8" from the 'center' of the large square hole to the end of the flute. But with the imperfections of PVC, I start out longer than that. The 'total' length from end-to-end is 18" but I started with 19". I assumed I'd be cutting off some at the end so I drew a line 1" from the end (bottom) and measured up from there to cut my square holes. Once the square holes are cut (but before drilling the tone holes) I began cutting off the end to tune the overall pitch.
So basically, I started out with a piece of tubing much longer than I needed, say 19-20 inches long. I used the 'middle' 18" to make the flute. That way I could have some extra on the ends to properly tune it.
this is a great tut, thx so much, but could cut it in half and then reatach it again with a sleeve? That would make it so much more portable. Or would that ruin the sound...
Bore diameter/bore length ratios for standard flutes need to be between 1/25 and 1/35. Your bore diameter is too big for a C natural instrument. When the bore is too large, the anti-node separators between the toneholes overlap and cause harmonic disruptions. There must also be at least a distance of 10 times the inner bore diameter between the embouchure/voicing and the top tonehole or you will have this precise problem, octave crossover .
By 1", do you mean 'inside' diameter? If you mean inside dia., then it can get tricky. It depends on the key you want the flute to play in. Too low, and the physics get all crazy. I posted a similar question on Junkdojo forum and will put the reply below.
A one inch flute 'will' play, but maybe only one octave or some notes might get a little crazy sounding.
I used a PVC 'coupler' for the mouthpiece which you can buy at the hardware store where you get the PVC pipe. It's used to join 2 pieces of pipe together. However, I noticed that the flute plays about the same with or without the mouthpiece. Also used a 45° coupler too which lets you angle the flute down some.
Okay Thanks. But I might make a PVC Recorder now. Because I did some research and the fingering for a bamboo flute and a recorder is the same. Which makes it a lot easier for me to play because I've been playing a bamboo flute. I was wondering if you can help me determine where the holes would be and stuff for a RECORDER? Would Flutomat still work if I used it to make a recorder? There arent as much resources for making a recorder =/ like there is for a pvc flute
Okay Thanks. But I might make a PVC Recorder now. Because I did some research and the fingering for a bamboo flute and a recorder is the same. Which makes it a lot easier for me to play because I've been playing a bamboo flute. I was wondering if you can help me determine where the holes would be and stuff for a RECORDER? Would Flutomat still work if I used it to make a recorder? There arent as much resources for making a recorder =/ like there is for a pvc flute
The Recorder is actually a tapered-bore instrument (i.e. the internal bore gets larger at the bottom). Not sure if that changes the Flutomat calculation or not.
However, where can a person find tapered PVC pipe.
The flute in the video is basically a Recorder mouthpiece on a flute body so it's kind of a hybrid.
Whenever I Google Flutomat, it's the first thing to come up in the search results as, "Flutomat Javascript Flute Designer." The website is "cwo" dot com.
Just finished making the tube. Sounds nice. In the G scale, I would like G,Bb,C,D, and F. Do not know the name of the scale but it has a yoga sound to it. Any suggestions other than trial and error to locate those notes?
That's a minor Pentatonic scale. Very popular scale. Also used in older jazz tunes quite a bit. G-all fingers down, Bb-lift first 2 bottom fingers, C-only lefthand fingers down, D-raise left ring finger, E-raise left middle finger, F-usually cover the top only 1/2 way with index finger (but it will vary on each flute). Called half-hole. That should give F. Uncover all fingers, you're at the octave of G.
By the way, the lower Bb note (2 lower holes uncovered) can sometimes be slightly sharp or flat so you may need to half-hole that note too (or 1/4 - hole it) to get the pitch just right.
hey it's me again i just want to ask a question about the fipple hole, if the diameter of my embouchure is 1 cm than whats the size of the second fipple hole and the first 1 my flute is a G =D
That's the dimension of the part that I routered out or if you're going to file a flat area, that's how long it would be. Basically the dimension of the gray area in the picture.
I have another problem. When I use the fluteomat, the far right collum says NaN, for each of the finger holes. I have inserted my desired frequence, and the pipe diameter/wall thickness. Any assistance would be great, thanks.
What happens is that some of the finger hole diameters (center column) can't support the frequencies you want. So see if you 'hard enter' those hole sizes. Scroll down on the webpage and find the 'decimal equivalent' so that you have an idea of the hole size. The reason is, that say .4375 is close to a 1/2" in diameter and is a pretty big hole. Also, when you change the hole diameter, it will move the hole's placement up or down so be aware of how far apart they are. Can your fingers reach?
So make sure your fingers can spread far enough apart to comfortably cover each hole. Also, a larger hole will move down the flute (drilled closer to the end) a smaller hole, moves the hole up the flute (further from the end). This is how you can tweak where the hole gets drilled. So keep tweaking the hole size until you don't get NaN "and" they are close enough to cover. Use a ruler with your fingers at each measurement to see if it's comfortable.
Well my hands seem big enough to reach, and I guess that I would want a mid-G major scale. Now all this hole-placing buisness seems confusing, but I think I get it. Do you have any suggestions as to where the holes should go?
This is really cool, but I am wondering how to get the auto tuner. I have looked, but have had no luck. If you could provide me with a web site or somethig, that would be great, thanks.
Go to Google and search the word "syaku8.exe" (no quotes). The first on the list should be "Let's Play bamboo flute." Go to that webpage, scroll about 1/2 way down and find the download, "Auto Tuner for Windows-XP etc." Follow download instructions. Then make sure you have a mic plug in. Works great.
That's pretty close to where i made mine. I recall having gone thru a couple of pieces of PVC however to find the size, so be prepared to throw a couple of pieces out if it doesn't play well. Or start smaller and file away until you get a good sound.
Well, it's actually both. Because the PVC pipe is a 'straight' bore tube like a flute. A recorder uses tapered bore. Both bore types create a distinct wave form. But true enough, the mouthpiece and embouchure arrangement are basically that of a recorder, and yet the bore is that of a flute.
Yes. But if you prefer to make a more real flute, you can simply make a round hole for the embouchure and play it like a traverse flute. But two potential issues arise. First, there's a steeper learning curve to produce a sound with just the single hole which you blow air over, like blowing over a bottle. Second, playing the flute sideways will probably take a little more time to learn to cover the holes since you can't see your fingers as you play. But it would still be a worthy adventure.
i have the tools to make one out of a piece to tube steel as well, i might go that route.. shouldnt sound too bad, but it would be a lot heavier than a PVC or carbon fiber model (and would stick to your lips in cold weather)
well.. looks like ill be going to the hardware store soon so i can make my G major PVC flute. should be great to take on outdoor trips, if it gets broken.. whoopdie doo, ill just make another... should be VERY light to carry too
Had to chuckle seeing your screen name "Megadeth" and putting that together with a Native American style flute. Heh.
I thought the same thing though, easy to take along hiking and what not. Use common sense when cutting and filing on the PVC tubing (breathing the dust). Especially when you're ready to do some testing, give it a good rinse. Also, when you get ready to cut the tuning length, run some warm water thru it to get it up to temp. Too cold or hot will affect the tuning.
well im more interested in a transverse style, but the construction is pretty similar. i could try PVC till i get it down.. then maybe buy a chunk of carbon fiber tube to make a very light, very strong one thatll have great acoustics and volume
Traverse may actually be easier to make initially, but I couldn't decide if trying to cover the finger holes would make it harder to play. And, a traverse would actually be more like a 'true' flute. The PVC model is really a hybrid because the embouchure is that of a recorder but the straight pipe is a that of a flute (recorder uses a tapered bore). Like to see the Carbon Fiber. Heh! High performance.
Well, pvc is cheaper in longer lengths. Probably better to buy the 10ft. standard length because the first flute usually doesn't come out 'just right.' Ten feet is about $3. But I'd say on a per flute basis, under $6 to make one. Assuming you already have some tools. Additionally, the pvc sleeve, cork or rubber stopper are under a $1 each. Pretty cheap all-in-all.
is the length to the fipple at the edge that is sharpened or is it to the center of the fipple hole? did you just make it or did you find the area of the circle and then have the fipple hole reach the same area?
The length is measured to the center of fipple, not the edge. I based the square hole on dimensions of a Native American style flute I bought. Calculating the area for both the square hole and the .500 diameter round hole using the Flutomat, the round hole is slightly larger. I've made larger square holes but the tone gets breathy and more difficult to get high notes. However, there are potentially many combos of LxW in that square hole that I haven't tried.
when flutomat calculates the flute length for a key, where does the measurement start? (blow end, stopper, fipple hole, hidden square hole?) Also, how far from the top end does the routered section start? do the measurements for the fipple holes and routered section stay the same for different keys? Any tips on using a saxophone reed? Great video btw! tip: use masking tape on PVC to drill holes, make marks etc. easier.
This flute is more of a Recorder/Flute hybrid. The cylindrical tube makes a flute sound but the method of generating the sound is that of a Recorder. The parts of the flute need some correction. The 'fipple' typically is the block or stopper that fits inside between the 2 holes but usually has a flat side to allow air to pass through the inside of the tube. However with this flute, the air passes over the 'outside' using a PVC sleeve to direct the air, or what's known as a 'fetish'.
I found the cork in the hardware section at a home improvement store. Near the nuts and bolts. I also like the rubber stoppers but like the cork, they're slightly funnel shaped so you have to get the right size and then cut a section of the stopper that is just slightly bigger than the inside of the PVC tube. I would just use something that is water resistant and not porous. Something that won't harbor bacteria, that you can easily wash.
Google, "Syaku8 Tuner" (without quotes). The second item down says, "tuner for flute making." It's for Windows. It may be a zip file but Windows will unzip that type of file.
i tried to make this flute using a site i found. however, it did not work. i tried typing in "flute o mat" on google but nothing came up. maybe i misheard you?
So far, only various size PVC flutes. Tried a low D with 1" PVC but it's so long that my hands can barely reach the lowest tone hole. By the way, make sure you use Sch40 PVC or similar. It's made for hot/cold drinking water, so no toxins. Other "plastic" pipe may not be safe. Also wear a dusk mask if you use power tools to cut PVC. Probably not good to inhale the saw dust.
Very nice Flute and very well put Thanks do you know anything about Making a Native american Flute ??? i really want to make one because to buy one is like 300 dollars or more any input would be Great thank you.
Do you mean a PVC flute that "sounds" like a Native American flute? That would simply be making the flute with a Minor Pentatonic scale. If you mean a wooden type flute, Google Native American style flute kits and see some pictures. It's quite a bit more involved.
Use the exact same steps to make the flute except you will use different pitches to get a minor pentatonic scale (Native American scale). So start out with a G flute and then drill holes for; 1st hole-A#, 2nd hole-C, 3rd-D, 4th-E, 5th-F#, 6th-G#.
how does the mouthpiece work?
youstiiiiiink 3 days ago
@youstiiiiiink It splits the air stream in two. Half goes into the flute, the other half outward.
modeeb2 2 days ago
this was so much more interesting than the bitch moaning about paper cup shakers
freakin1random 3 months ago
A question if I may - I made the table for the fipple much deeper than 1/32", I am about 3/32". I do get the intended C4 when blowing very softly, with a little C5 included that too quickly takes over if I blow a little harder and if I blow moderately it becomes C6.
I wonder do I have too much air going over the fipple? Should I make the fipple larger?
NebanHerrera 6 months ago
@NebanHerrera First, by blowing faster and getting the next octave, that is essentially how this type of flute works. So it's close to it functioning correctly. Next, I would try to move the sleeve either up or down and try it each way. Usually when the sleeve is closer to the 2nd square hole, you'll get the higher octaves but not lower. Move the sleeve up and you get the lower octave but it's more difficult to get the upper. Find a good middle point.
modeeb2 6 months ago
@modeeb2 Thanks, the sleeve placement is a lot fussier than I expected. I may have made matters worse by trying to get a C Arabian scale with the lowest fingerhole being 1/8" diameter which seems to be very sensitive to airflow. Next I will try a really large spacing to the lowest fingerhole so it is at least 0.25" and I will make a shallower fipple table as I think it is adding some noise and making it more sensitive than it should be.
NebanHerrera 5 months ago
@NebanHerrera Yeah, you are correct that the the lowest hole can't be smaller than .025 but also, be certain which C octave you're starting on. If you use a lower C octave, the flute gets longer, making finger holes further apart and the longer length begins to exceed what the 3/4 inch diameter flute can handle. I made a low D flute that sounded pretty good on about 5 notes, it wouldn't play any of the higher notes. You should be able to make a Phrygian scale (Arabian) with no problem though.
modeeb2 5 months ago
@modeeb2 Yes the one I have had trouble with is a C4 261.63Hz I am looking at G4 this time with minimum 0.25" fingerholes. It took quite a bit a tweaking on Flutomat but I almost got 1" between all holes except the lowest. The scale I like is very close to the Arabic Phrygian gypsy scale it is the Arabic Byzantine scale where the 2nd and 6th notes are lowered a semitone.
In your superb PVC Flute Demo is this a G4 lowest note flute?
NebanHerrera 5 months ago
@NebanHerrera Yes, with all fingers down the lowest not is G4, 392 Hz.
Nice deal on using the Flutomat and getting the correct holes sizes and separation. Some wooden flutes also drill their holes "diagonally" (at an angle) so that the hole spacing is more even for the fingers, yet from inside the flute, they are spaced for tuning. This takes some practice but works pretty good. You can also file a hole very slightly to tune that note flatter if needed.
modeeb2 5 months ago
thats not a flute exactly but its a recorder
TheJoskee 6 months ago
Isn't this actually a clarinet?
manrayer88 7 months ago
@manrayer88 If you could use a reed mouthpiece, it may sound like a clarinet somewhat.
modeeb2 7 months ago
@modeeb2 I thought the difference was that a flute is open on both ends and a clarinet is open on one end
manrayer88 7 months ago
@manrayer88 A bonafide, modern day flute is actually closed on the mouthpiece end. There's a plug inside that is moved up or down for fine tuning. But really, they're both open in a sense on both ends, air goes in at the top and exits the bottom (sort of).
They're both cylindrical instruments however and may have similar wave forms but I think blowing air over a hole vs the reed is what makes the most noticable difference.
modeeb2 7 months ago
These type of flutes are very limited, but easy to play.
Alternately
A none-fipple flute from PVC gives you a wide range of expression in pitch, volume, and timbre, especially in comparison to fipple/ducted flutes, but is much harder to learn.
kriakraaw 8 months ago
hey ive been trying to make pvc flutes and also bamboo flutes. ive just started out and have been using the quena end blown technique. ive been wandering how to apply the flutomat calculations to my flute, is the embouchure hole simple where i would have the mouth end of the flute or do i need to work out the fingerholes a different way?? im having trouble on the tuning side please help meee! :)
Jophisn 8 months ago
@Jophisn Yes, in fact the Flutomat is actually referring to the hole you blow air over in a traverse flute. So in your case, you'll disregard the part about making the two upper square holes but everything from the embouchure hole down to the end of the flute will still apply.
modeeb2 8 months ago
@modeeb2 ok thanks for clearing that up it has helped alot!
Jophisn 8 months ago
Hi! Your tutorial was very helpful and I created a flute of my own based on your video and it works very well :] However, when I play it, it sounds pretty soft. Any ideas on what is causing this or how to improve this? Thanks!
chelidog2247 9 months ago
@chelidog2247 Two things. Experiment with the sleeve closer or further to the square hole that air passes over. This is the larger of the two square holes. I notice that closer makes the upper notes play easier at the loss of the lower register. Move the sleeve up and the low notes play better. Try the sleeve edge about 1/8" away from the square hole.
2nd, low notes are always played soft on flute. It's the nature of the flute. Make sure your fingers cover the holes completely also. Good Luck.
modeeb2 9 months ago
How long is the body of the flute, because I understand that you used 3/4" pvc pipe, and on the flutomat it says 1/2?
lovesherfriends 10 months ago
@lovesherfriends Flutomat just starts out with a 1/2 inch. You have to measure the PVC yourself and enter it into the flutomat website.
modeeb2 10 months ago
Are both ends of the flute open?
15ahock15 10 months ago
why is your inside diameter .824 when it should be .75?
edgarwazhear 10 months ago
@edgarwazhear I think it's the nature of the way plumbing stuff is measured. I've measured the PVC that has 3/4" printed on the side, but there's no dimension that is actually 3/4".
The .824 is two measurements inside in order to get an average since PVC is frequently slightly oval. But still, nothing on 3/4" PVC is actually 3/4 of an inch. Strange.
modeeb2 10 months ago
@modeeb2 It appears you have filed a ramp from the trailing edge of the blow hole up to the table in addition to the 45 degree undercut of the fipple trailing edge. Is this so? If so, what is the purpose? Does it improve performance of the flute? I've built a prototype E flute per your instructional videos and comments. It works very well. I've got the specs tweaked for hole spacing and offsets to better fit my hands for the second attempt. Should be very comfortable. Thanks in advance.
TFarmer49 10 months ago
@TFarmer49 That ramp helps to "direct" the airflow downward and create a uniform flow of air. I haven't tried not using that but it's possible the air would still flow sufficiently downward. Plus, it may create a venturi effect where the air travels from a larger-to-smaller section which speeds the air up slightly.
Tweaking the holes for betting finger orientation is one of the better things to do. Definitely makes it more comfortable to play. Thanks for the comment.
modeeb2 10 months ago
@modeeb2 Thank you for the quick reply!
TFarmer49 10 months ago
very nice. great facts ;q
takemybags 11 months ago
In the still frame with your flute's specs, is the length from the blow end to the center of the fipple hole including the extra 1" pipe that you seem to add onto that end in pt 2 before playing?
supersully78 11 months ago
@supersully78 Good question. That measurement does NOT include the extra pvc fitting. However having said that, the length "above" the 2 square holes will not significantly effect the tone. You mainly need to have enough to create the table and a little more so that the sleeve will completely seal the back side and not let air leak out backwards.
modeeb2 11 months ago
Hi! Do you know how long my PVC pipe should be if I want it to play middle C as my lowest key and work from there?
jennyswei 11 months ago
@jennyswei Whichever note you pick to make your flute, use the Flutomat website calculator to figure out the length. I would try to persuade you "not" to use the middle C from the piano (261.63 Hz), because the flute will be so long and the finger holes so far apart that it will be quite difficult to actually play. Choose the C that is one octave higher (523.25 Hz) which would make a flute apprx. 11" inches long. The exact length will depend on the dimensions of the tubing you have.
modeeb2 11 months ago
Great video, however, I'm a little confused about the measurement of the table. when it says 2-3/16 x 13/32, what does the 13/32 mean? wasn't the specs for the width of the table already given? 17/32? And how far away should the beginning of the table be from the blow end of the flute? Thanks!
cmmoore890 11 months ago
Interesting
kennygtexas 1 year ago
Here is my third question:
3) In addition to the notes being too low, when I play the flute, certain notes (especially the F, G, and A) will jump down an octave. Is this just due to the way I breathe or is it an error I made in making the flute?
chelidog2247 1 year ago
Thanks for your informational video! I am currently making a C flute and have three questions:
1) After drilling holes, if I were to play my C flute without fingering any notes, should it play a C? or should it play the 7th note of the scale, a B?
2) After making my flute, all the notes sounded kind of flat. How do I fine tune the flute and make notes sharper or flatter?
chelidog2247 1 year ago
@chelidog2247 (1st) With no fingers covering any holes on a "C" flute, you will play a "B", the 7th. To get the C, one octave above the lowest note, you put all fingers down but speed up the air (blow slightly harder). (2nd). To make the flute slightly sharper, you would cut a small amount from the lower end, like an 1/8th of an inch. (3rd) I'm not positive about notes dropping down, adjust both your air speed and the sleeve's distance to the fipple hole either up or down from the fipple hole.
modeeb2 1 year ago
Hi,
Thanks for your helpful tutorial! My friend and I used it to make a C flute. The notes all came out slightly flat, however, and we're wondering if it's because we didn't follow the Flutomat directions correctly.
To clarify, does the length labeled as "Calculated Distance from End of Flute for the Embouchure Hole" indicate the length of the entire piece of PVC or the length from the fipple hole to the end of the flute?
Thanks!
MewxRetasu 1 year ago
@MewxRetasu The calculated distance is not the entire length. Only from the bottom of the flute up to the "center" hole (apprx). Secondly, if the pvc tube itself and/or the air temp is cold, it could play slightly flat until it warms up. Otherwise, I often have to cut a little off the bottom end to bring it into pitch. Like 1/8th of an inch off the end. You may have to do it more than once, but only take off a little at a time. Good Luck.
modeeb2 1 year ago
@modeeb2 Thank you so much for your prompt reply! We'll try adjusting our flute or making a new one.
MewxRetasu 1 year ago
@MewxRetasu Yeah, if it doesn't come out like you want, sometimes the best way to go is to examine the first one and then be even more precise with a 2nd or 3rd flute. When I first make the flute (before drilling the figure holes), I cut it slightly long to make it flat. Then I tune it just ever so slightly flat (I mean barely flat) because when you drill the holes, it can get a little bit sharper. After drilling the holes it should be 'very' close in tune.
modeeb2 1 year ago
great video i have a question i have made the pvc native american style flute from the video then i tried makeing on out of bamboo an i am getting no sound what am i doing wrong is the deminions the same for the flipple or not with the wood native american style flutes or different ? do you have you best measurenents that i can try on wood or bamboo
ikbbowyer 1 year ago
@ikbbowyer Do you mean you get sound out of the pvc flute but you don't get sound out of the bamboo? The measurements would be the same provided the bamboo has the exact same inside diameter and the same wall thickness. But if the raw bamboo tube is different, then you will have to recalculate the entire thing. The 'table' and two square holes would be the same. Bamboo is uneven though, so you may be getting leaks if you try to copy a pvc flute.
modeeb2 1 year ago
can u tell me all the measurements in metric system plz?
changdae11 1 year ago
@changdae11 If you go to the section at 3:24, you'll see the mearsurements in metric and also where to router the table.
modeeb2 1 year ago
can u be more descriptive of where the routered area starts from the blow end and also where it ends?
changdae11 1 year ago
What is the embouchure, and where is it located. 0.5 inch diameter?
TheGuitaross 1 year ago
@TheGuitaross Strictly speaking, the embouchure is the shape you make with your lips to create the sound. On the Flutomat website, it referrs to the larger of the two square holes at the top of the flute (2nd hole from the "top"). The 0.5 diameter is given for a round hole for a flute played from the side. On the pvc flute, the larger square hole should have apprx. the same "area" as a round hole.
Flutomat gives the distance from the bottom of the flute to that larger square hole.
modeeb2 1 year ago
@modeeb2 ahhh ok. is it measuring from the lowest part of the square, middle, top? Thanks alot for your responses!
TheGuitaross 1 year ago
@TheGuitaross Good question. I measured from the bottom of the flute up to the "center" of the lower square hole. I was not able to find much conclusive info on that question though. Wouldn't hurt to look around Google too. If you find something substantial, post back. Otherwise, just measure to the center of the hole. I drilled my pilot hole (starter hole) figuring the center and then filed outwards to make the square hole centered.
modeeb2 1 year ago
Comment removed
TheGuitaross 1 year ago
@TheGuitaross On a flute, you 'over blow' which allows you to play an octave higher (some times two octaves higher). However even like a silver metal flute, the volume will be softer at low frequencies and louder at higher frequencies. It's just the nature of the instrument. Professional players can obviously reduce this some.
So basically you get your first 6 low notes, then the 7th note is all fingers up, then all fingers down and over blow, to get the next octave and beyond.
modeeb2 1 year ago
I need to build a C flute however range of the flute has to be from F3 (175 Hz) to G5 (784 Hz) is there a simple way to build this out of PVC...? Because there is a wide range of notes.
Cvilleswetheart8 1 year ago
@Cvilleswetheart8 I don't believe the 'normal' flute instructions will work on a flute that low in freq. 1st, on a bass flute, you need extension rods to reach the holes that would be too far down the flute for your hand to reach. Also, because of the low freq., the finger holes will be too far apart for your fingers to cover. Lastly, the physics of a tube seem to change with increased size, which is why I think it may not work as predicted.
modeeb2 1 year ago
i made one; however, the sound is airy and doesn't really have a deep tone. any tips to make it louder without changing octaves? how do i get the sound to be "full"?
funyummyful 1 year ago
@funyummyful Could be any number of things that makes it airy sounding. Assuming all the holes are the correct size and distance from the end of the flute (especially the two square holes at the top), I would first slide the top sleeve closer or further away from the square hole that it directs air over. Second, virtually all flutes are played louder in the upper octaves and much softer in the lower octave. It's the nature of flutes. What key did you make your flute?
modeeb2 1 year ago
@modeeb2 i made it in the key of C, i think i'll make another one and make more precise measurements. also, how did you make the "table"? i used a file and its not great, what power tool did you use?
funyummyful 1 year ago
Thanks for your quick response! I got the table and the holes drilled and its playing. I cut it short and Im going to make it in the key of c which ended up making it 26 inches long. The lowest note I can play is a c at 523hz, but when I type in the frequencies in to the fluteomat its saying that it should only be 11 inches long. Should I tune the flute to its lowest note or what?
stang67yo 1 year ago
@stang67yo Typically, you have to cut the flute and tune the lowest note with "no" finger holes drilled. Once tuned you drill the holes measuring from the bottom up. When I choose the lowest C (261.63 Hz) in Flutomat it comes up with about 24", however getting the lowest note will require very soft, slow blowing air. So it's possible that the flute is out of tune just enough that you're not able to play the lower octave.
It may be that having drilled the holes first, you won't get it tuned.
modeeb2 1 year ago
@stang67yo So, I would input your pvc thickness and choose the lowest "C" in Flutomat, then cut the tube. I would then also measure from the bottom up to the lowest finger hole and see if it matches the Flutomat chart. Flutomat says the lowest hole would be 4.5 inches from the bottom. Otherwise you may have to start over. Figure out the key you want, make the table and square holes, if it plays, then start cutting the bottom off until it's tuned to the lowest note. Then drill the finger holes.
modeeb2 1 year ago
Im making this for my science project. Can you tell me how to make the mouthpiece?
stang67yo 1 year ago
@stang67yo There's no actual mthpiece. But you do have to create that flat "table" part I show in the video where the two square holes are made. I used a router for that but you could also to it with a simple flat file (but it will take a while).
There is also a flute that requires very few tools on Youtube called, Junk Dojo. He makes one in around 3 minutes with very few tools. You could probably adapt that model and add the finger holes I believe.
modeeb2 1 year ago
hi what should the overall diameter of the pvc flute be?
fohbizness4520 1 year ago
@fohbizness4520 I used 3/4" pvc however, when you get it home you'll need to measure the wall thickness and the inside diameter pretty accurately (if you're using the Flutomat website to calculate). I would say at least down to a 32nd of an inch if not a 64th of an inch. Also, since pvc tubing is probably not perfectly round, I would measure the inside diameter both up & down and side-to-side to get an average diameter for Flutomat. More accurate that way.
modeeb2 1 year ago
@modeeb2 thx fo ur quick reponse.I also have two other questions.is there specific tool i should use to measure the inside of the pipe and for the sleeve cut pipe and other piece you used to attach near the square holes are they suppose to be 1" in diameter?
fohbizness4520 1 year ago
@fohbizness4520 I wouldn't say there's a specific tool. I have a metal ruler that goes down to 1/64th of an inch so it's pretty accurate. Just really zoom in with your eyes and notice if the diameter falls in between or right on the ruler marks.
The sleeve was cut from a piece of 1" pvc (you can buy 1-2 ft. sections, so little cost), then slit the sleeve lengthwise to fit over the flute. The top part (mouthpiece) isn't absolutely essential to play. It's a 3/4" pvc coupler (about .75 cents).
modeeb2 1 year ago
Hey thanks for responding so quickly yesterday. However i have one more question. I am doing the math to find the measurements for which we drill the holes and i dont know where to measure from to find the length of the pipe. Thanks for your time.
spenser902 1 year ago
@spenser902 Most everything is measured from the bottom up, from where the air exits the flute at the bottom. On Flutomat, the very top number calculated is the "embouchure," which is the 2nd square hole "from the top." Be aware though, that if the Flutomat says your flute should be say, 18" long, that's only from the bottom of the flute up to the embouchure (or lower square hole). You still need at least several more inches at the top for the 1st square hole and the mouthpiece area.
Savvy?
modeeb2 1 year ago
I would like to make this flute. Can you tell me how fare from the end of the flute you started the router? I do not care what end you come from but just let me know the measurements. I also under stand the 2-3/16" but what is the 13/32" for? This is on your blue prints form your video. I think I have a all the other information. Can you help me out here? Thanks Slick
have a great day
GOD BLESS
sueNslick 1 year ago
Actually the Fipple is the block that restricts airflow in the mouthpiece.
cinaevan 1 year ago
¡Esos hombres son tremendos! Hacen flautas con los más increíbles materiales, pero con una gran calidad.
Pifanista 1 year ago
WhatZ PVZ flute? is that PLANTS VS. ZOMBIE ^_^
TheXDrEwX 1 year ago
@TheXDrEwX LULZ That game is actually really fun!
webkinz1126 1 year ago
whats PVC flute ? ^_^
TheXDrEwX 1 year ago
What are the specs you used for the g dorian scale? yours sounds terrific. I am making one for a jazz musician and would love to duplicate what youve done
akplayer2 1 year ago
@akplayer2 By specs, do you mean the particular notes for the Dorian scale or the placement of the tone holes etc.? To find the Dorian scale for any note, simply use the major key signature from the note a whole step below. So for a G-Dorian scale, you would use the key signature from the F major scale (i.e. one flat). So G-G with a Bb.
modeeb2 1 year ago
Thanks for the great video I'm trying to make one with a harmonic minor scale and one with a diminished scale.
spindlegrinder 1 year ago
The tuner is helpful in tuning guitars, i have a pitch pipe, but if you can't hear it, you can match frequencies and get closer with an electronic tuner or pitch pipe
psychomikeo500 1 year ago
Comment removed
NengVang2007 1 year ago
does this flute cover an entire octave with only 6 holes? I guess 7 because of the end opening?
lexi876 1 year ago
How long would you cut an 8 hole pipe? Also, how far away from the mouth or beginning of pipe (without the coupling) is the routered table? Thanks! Your video is great!
lexi876 1 year ago
i made one alittle diff. from this one. it works great and its for school. and their easy to make
ilovezac126 1 year ago
Say I'm making a PVC trumpet, could I drill holes in it to make valves? Sort of like what you did with the flute?
holuj49 2 years ago
What first comes to mind is the complexity of trumpet valves, moving between the various lengths of tubing. Also as you may know, a trumpet is 'tapered' or conical bore instrument. The acoustical properties are different than what's called a 'straight pipe' like a flute for instance. While you may with some difficulty be able to construct valves, the cylindrical bore of PVC would not and could not produce the sound of a bonafide trumpet.
modeeb2 2 years ago
@modeeb2 in the olden days, before they had the tech to make values, they had a group, each with one tone
jedimastert0810 1 year ago
@modeeb2 Actually, trumpets are cylindrical bore instruments, as opposed to a french horn or tuba which are conical bore.
computerkid1212 1 year ago
How long is the 1" dia. sleeve? How wide a slot or amount cut out of sleeve? Or just cut lengthwise and not really moving a portion of sleeve plastic? Are table end dimensions 13/32" (mouth end) & 17/32" (downstream) diameters so is tapered and not true rectangular area with same rounded ends? Or is both dimensions same diameter? Fantastic! Loved videos! Making flutes for my grandkids.
mlharchitect 2 years ago
My sleeve is 1 1/2" long but what's important is that it completely covers that table cut-out behind the top hole (no air leaking backwards). The slot in the sleeve can be very narrow. It just allows it to expand to fit over the 3/4 PVC.
The table is a 'true rectangle. The top square hole is 13/32 wide & the 2nd hole is 7/16" wide. But the table is rectangular and is 9/16" wide (edge-to-edge).
modeeb2 2 years ago
Your explanations and descriptions are very clear.
Thanks for posting this.
Very generous.
shas1814 2 years ago
How far from the end of the pipe do you start your table? (for "G" flute)
PEN7367 2 years ago
On the finished flute it's 15 3/8" from the 'center' of the large square hole to the end of the flute. But with the imperfections of PVC, I start out longer than that. The 'total' length from end-to-end is 18" but I started with 19". I assumed I'd be cutting off some at the end so I drew a line 1" from the end (bottom) and measured up from there to cut my square holes. Once the square holes are cut (but before drilling the tone holes) I began cutting off the end to tune the overall pitch.
modeeb2 2 years ago
So basically, I started out with a piece of tubing much longer than I needed, say 19-20 inches long. I used the 'middle' 18" to make the flute. That way I could have some extra on the ends to properly tune it.
Savvy?
modeeb2 2 years ago
this is a great tut, thx so much, but could cut it in half and then reatach it again with a sleeve? That would make it so much more portable. Or would that ruin the sound...
allmashtup 2 years ago
Yeah, you can do that. Some have even made a very precise 'inner' sleeve too. Also, you can sleeve the headjoint so maybe a 40/60 split.
I would make the sleeve and cut everything a little long first to get the fundemental note tuned correctly. Then drill the tone holes.
Good idea.
modeeb2 2 years ago
wow man thanks :)
muladar10 2 years ago
Below is a reply regarding bore/length ratio.
Bore diameter/bore length ratios for standard flutes need to be between 1/25 and 1/35. Your bore diameter is too big for a C natural instrument. When the bore is too large, the anti-node separators between the toneholes overlap and cause harmonic disruptions. There must also be at least a distance of 10 times the inner bore diameter between the embouchure/voicing and the top tonehole or you will have this precise problem, octave crossover .
modeeb2 2 years ago
Can someone make a flute from 1 inch pipe???
kalikoutas 2 years ago
By 1", do you mean 'inside' diameter? If you mean inside dia., then it can get tricky. It depends on the key you want the flute to play in. Too low, and the physics get all crazy. I posted a similar question on Junkdojo forum and will put the reply below.
A one inch flute 'will' play, but maybe only one octave or some notes might get a little crazy sounding.
modeeb2 2 years ago
Can you tell me what you use as a mouthpiece? I'm not quite sure with your video..
Great flute(: planning on making it with my dad for my physics project.
einette 2 years ago
I used a PVC 'coupler' for the mouthpiece which you can buy at the hardware store where you get the PVC pipe. It's used to join 2 pieces of pipe together. However, I noticed that the flute plays about the same with or without the mouthpiece. Also used a 45° coupler too which lets you angle the flute down some.
Good Luck.
modeeb2 2 years ago
Okay Thanks. But I might make a PVC Recorder now. Because I did some research and the fingering for a bamboo flute and a recorder is the same. Which makes it a lot easier for me to play because I've been playing a bamboo flute. I was wondering if you can help me determine where the holes would be and stuff for a RECORDER? Would Flutomat still work if I used it to make a recorder? There arent as much resources for making a recorder =/ like there is for a pvc flute
hamkay0x 2 years ago
Okay Thanks. But I might make a PVC Recorder now. Because I did some research and the fingering for a bamboo flute and a recorder is the same. Which makes it a lot easier for me to play because I've been playing a bamboo flute. I was wondering if you can help me determine where the holes would be and stuff for a RECORDER? Would Flutomat still work if I used it to make a recorder? There arent as much resources for making a recorder =/ like there is for a pvc flute
Sorry. I used my sister's acc.
einette 2 years ago
The Recorder is actually a tapered-bore instrument (i.e. the internal bore gets larger at the bottom). Not sure if that changes the Flutomat calculation or not.
However, where can a person find tapered PVC pipe.
The flute in the video is basically a Recorder mouthpiece on a flute body so it's kind of a hybrid.
modeeb2 2 years ago
for the demo what scale was that in and do you mind if you tell me how to made it
horsedude44 2 years ago
thanks so much
horsedude44 2 years ago
can u give me the url to flute o mat i couldn't find it great vid loved the demo
horsedude44 2 years ago
Whenever I Google Flutomat, it's the first thing to come up in the search results as, "Flutomat Javascript Flute Designer." The website is "cwo" dot com.
modeeb2 2 years ago
Much thanks
mandolinut 2 years ago
Great instructional video.
Just finished making the tube. Sounds nice. In the G scale, I would like G,Bb,C,D, and F. Do not know the name of the scale but it has a yoga sound to it. Any suggestions other than trial and error to locate those notes?
Thanks.
mandolinut 2 years ago
That's a minor Pentatonic scale. Very popular scale. Also used in older jazz tunes quite a bit. G-all fingers down, Bb-lift first 2 bottom fingers, C-only lefthand fingers down, D-raise left ring finger, E-raise left middle finger, F-usually cover the top only 1/2 way with index finger (but it will vary on each flute). Called half-hole. That should give F. Uncover all fingers, you're at the octave of G.
Glad it worked.
modeeb2 2 years ago
By the way, the lower Bb note (2 lower holes uncovered) can sometimes be slightly sharp or flat so you may need to half-hole that note too (or 1/4 - hole it) to get the pitch just right.
modeeb2 2 years ago
Really really Awsome
Vegetanthony 2 years ago
hey it's me again i just want to ask a question about the fipple hole, if the diameter of my embouchure is 1 cm than whats the size of the second fipple hole and the first 1 my flute is a G =D
Expiredsushi 2 years ago
Hi, im a bit confused on flute specs pic at 3:28. When it says 2-3/16 x13/32, what does that mean?
xCervelobikex 2 years ago
That's the dimension of the part that I routered out or if you're going to file a flat area, that's how long it would be. Basically the dimension of the gray area in the picture.
modeeb2 2 years ago
I have another problem. When I use the fluteomat, the far right collum says NaN, for each of the finger holes. I have inserted my desired frequence, and the pipe diameter/wall thickness. Any assistance would be great, thanks.
Canuck922 2 years ago
What happens is that some of the finger hole diameters (center column) can't support the frequencies you want. So see if you 'hard enter' those hole sizes. Scroll down on the webpage and find the 'decimal equivalent' so that you have an idea of the hole size. The reason is, that say .4375 is close to a 1/2" in diameter and is a pretty big hole. Also, when you change the hole diameter, it will move the hole's placement up or down so be aware of how far apart they are. Can your fingers reach?
modeeb2 2 years ago
So make sure your fingers can spread far enough apart to comfortably cover each hole. Also, a larger hole will move down the flute (drilled closer to the end) a smaller hole, moves the hole up the flute (further from the end). This is how you can tweak where the hole gets drilled. So keep tweaking the hole size until you don't get NaN "and" they are close enough to cover. Use a ruler with your fingers at each measurement to see if it's comfortable.
modeeb2 2 years ago
What note are you wanting your flute and what octave (Low G, mid-G)? Also, major or minor scale?
modeeb2 2 years ago
Well my hands seem big enough to reach, and I guess that I would want a mid-G major scale. Now all this hole-placing buisness seems confusing, but I think I get it. Do you have any suggestions as to where the holes should go?
Canuck922 2 years ago
This is really cool, but I am wondering how to get the auto tuner. I have looked, but have had no luck. If you could provide me with a web site or somethig, that would be great, thanks.
Canuck922 2 years ago
Go to Google and search the word "syaku8.exe" (no quotes). The first on the list should be "Let's Play bamboo flute." Go to that webpage, scroll about 1/2 way down and find the download, "Auto Tuner for Windows-XP etc." Follow download instructions. Then make sure you have a mic plug in. Works great.
modeeb2 2 years ago
Thanks for the help, and also for the quick response. Nice job on all this, it's really cool!
Canuck922 2 years ago
hey i would like to ask if you need to get the exact measurements for the hole diameter and the distance apart when it is like .5544 does it matter?
SmartBombUser 2 years ago
That's pretty close to where i made mine. I recall having gone thru a couple of pieces of PVC however to find the size, so be prepared to throw a couple of pieces out if it doesn't play well. Or start smaller and file away until you get a good sound.
modeeb2 2 years ago
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Expiredsushi 3 years ago
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Expiredsushi 3 years ago
That's not a flute, it's a recorder
potheadpenguin 3 years ago
Well, it's actually both. Because the PVC pipe is a 'straight' bore tube like a flute. A recorder uses tapered bore. Both bore types create a distinct wave form. But true enough, the mouthpiece and embouchure arrangement are basically that of a recorder, and yet the bore is that of a flute.
modeeb2 3 years ago
So it's a kind of hybrid?
potheadpenguin 3 years ago
Yes. But if you prefer to make a more real flute, you can simply make a round hole for the embouchure and play it like a traverse flute. But two potential issues arise. First, there's a steeper learning curve to produce a sound with just the single hole which you blow air over, like blowing over a bottle. Second, playing the flute sideways will probably take a little more time to learn to cover the holes since you can't see your fingers as you play. But it would still be a worthy adventure.
modeeb2 3 years ago
i have the tools to make one out of a piece to tube steel as well, i might go that route.. shouldnt sound too bad, but it would be a lot heavier than a PVC or carbon fiber model (and would stick to your lips in cold weather)
megadeth22885 3 years ago
well.. looks like ill be going to the hardware store soon so i can make my G major PVC flute. should be great to take on outdoor trips, if it gets broken.. whoopdie doo, ill just make another... should be VERY light to carry too
megadeth22885 3 years ago
Had to chuckle seeing your screen name "Megadeth" and putting that together with a Native American style flute. Heh.
I thought the same thing though, easy to take along hiking and what not. Use common sense when cutting and filing on the PVC tubing (breathing the dust). Especially when you're ready to do some testing, give it a good rinse. Also, when you get ready to cut the tuning length, run some warm water thru it to get it up to temp. Too cold or hot will affect the tuning.
Good Luck.
modeeb2 3 years ago
well im more interested in a transverse style, but the construction is pretty similar. i could try PVC till i get it down.. then maybe buy a chunk of carbon fiber tube to make a very light, very strong one thatll have great acoustics and volume
megadeth22885 3 years ago
Traverse may actually be easier to make initially, but I couldn't decide if trying to cover the finger holes would make it harder to play. And, a traverse would actually be more like a 'true' flute. The PVC model is really a hybrid because the embouchure is that of a recorder but the straight pipe is a that of a flute (recorder uses a tapered bore). Like to see the Carbon Fiber. Heh! High performance.
modeeb2 3 years ago
thanks for the info, I needed to make an instrument for physics so i made this, and it works
JonBigE 3 years ago
Excellent vid and very informative. Any estimate on overall cost of a single flute, just out of curiosity?
Nepsis 3 years ago
Well, pvc is cheaper in longer lengths. Probably better to buy the 10ft. standard length because the first flute usually doesn't come out 'just right.' Ten feet is about $3. But I'd say on a per flute basis, under $6 to make one. Assuming you already have some tools. Additionally, the pvc sleeve, cork or rubber stopper are under a $1 each. Pretty cheap all-in-all.
Thanks.
modeeb2 3 years ago
is the length to the fipple at the edge that is sharpened or is it to the center of the fipple hole? did you just make it or did you find the area of the circle and then have the fipple hole reach the same area?
Dethcloud 3 years ago
The length is measured to the center of fipple, not the edge. I based the square hole on dimensions of a Native American style flute I bought. Calculating the area for both the square hole and the .500 diameter round hole using the Flutomat, the round hole is slightly larger. I've made larger square holes but the tone gets breathy and more difficult to get high notes. However, there are potentially many combos of LxW in that square hole that I haven't tried.
Hope this helps.
modeeb2 3 years ago
when flutomat calculates the flute length for a key, where does the measurement start? (blow end, stopper, fipple hole, hidden square hole?) Also, how far from the top end does the routered section start? do the measurements for the fipple holes and routered section stay the same for different keys? Any tips on using a saxophone reed? Great video btw! tip: use masking tape on PVC to drill holes, make marks etc. easier.
adl1956 3 years ago
This flute is more of a Recorder/Flute hybrid. The cylindrical tube makes a flute sound but the method of generating the sound is that of a Recorder. The parts of the flute need some correction. The 'fipple' typically is the block or stopper that fits inside between the 2 holes but usually has a flat side to allow air to pass through the inside of the tube. However with this flute, the air passes over the 'outside' using a PVC sleeve to direct the air, or what's known as a 'fetish'.
modeeb2 3 years ago
hi.. do you have any idea where can I get the cork? or is there any possible material as a substitute? thanks before
vikykinky 3 years ago
I found the cork in the hardware section at a home improvement store. Near the nuts and bolts. I also like the rubber stoppers but like the cork, they're slightly funnel shaped so you have to get the right size and then cut a section of the stopper that is just slightly bigger than the inside of the PVC tube. I would just use something that is water resistant and not porous. Something that won't harbor bacteria, that you can easily wash.
modeeb2 3 years ago
I'm having trouble finding the tuner
affinity409 3 years ago
Google, "Syaku8 Tuner" (without quotes). The second item down says, "tuner for flute making." It's for Windows. It may be a zip file but Windows will unzip that type of file.
modeeb2 3 years ago
i tried to make this flute using a site i found. however, it did not work. i tried typing in "flute o mat" on google but nothing came up. maybe i misheard you?
ilikeusumtimes 3 years ago
Try only using the single word Flutomat. See if that it. I found it on a cwo website.
modeeb2 3 years ago
actually i figured out my problem. if i make the mouthpiece bigger, it will work better.
thanks anyways :)
ilikeusumtimes 3 years ago
Thank you Very much ill have to get started on that So do you make any other flutes or instruments ???
daviddaddy 3 years ago
So far, only various size PVC flutes. Tried a low D with 1" PVC but it's so long that my hands can barely reach the lowest tone hole. By the way, make sure you use Sch40 PVC or similar. It's made for hot/cold drinking water, so no toxins. Other "plastic" pipe may not be safe. Also wear a dusk mask if you use power tools to cut PVC. Probably not good to inhale the saw dust.
Good Luck.
modeeb2 3 years ago
Very nice Flute and very well put Thanks do you know anything about Making a Native american Flute ??? i really want to make one because to buy one is like 300 dollars or more any input would be Great thank you.
daviddaddy 3 years ago
Do you mean a PVC flute that "sounds" like a Native American flute? That would simply be making the flute with a Minor Pentatonic scale. If you mean a wooden type flute, Google Native American style flute kits and see some pictures. It's quite a bit more involved.
Thanks
modeeb2 3 years ago
Sure just a pvc Flute that sounds like a native american flute any tips on how to make that??? Thanks
daviddaddy 3 years ago
Use the exact same steps to make the flute except you will use different pitches to get a minor pentatonic scale (Native American scale). So start out with a G flute and then drill holes for; 1st hole-A#, 2nd hole-C, 3rd-D, 4th-E, 5th-F#, 6th-G#.
Make sense?
modeeb2 3 years ago