Indoor Rock Climbing Techniques : How to Tie Figure 8 Knots for Indoor Rock Climbing

[clarkey1009484]

Guys we all know the rope isn't in perfect condition, and he could leave a little more of a tail and do a stopper knot, but the figure of 8 knot itself is fine, and the way he tied it onto the harness is perfect. leave him alone.

[TheMmaattttyy]

all the gimps taking a cheap shot over the internet, i forgot how to do this thanks for the vid

[krypekeeper]

dont you want a fist length between your harness and the knot??

[gilfilly]

That's a cool know, thanks. Just what I was looking for. I will use this tomorrow :)

Thanks :)

[pdrums777]

i still disagree with the rope tied directly to the harness. figure 8 on a crab then attach to harness personally

[omglmaolol]

@pdrums777 nah man, then all your junk gets too far out for no reason. best keep it nice and close

[djsorty11]

the knot he had at the end was a double figure 8 but the one at the start was a figure 8 knot

[unclepeter99]

He should look at the camera and not around it, it's like he's being distracted.

[uberismyname]

I really enjoy laughing at you stuck up climbers who pick out everything and think you know more than anyone. I've always tied my knot like this and haven't tied the tail and I've had no problems. it's not that big of a deal.

[001FICO]

haha you are soo stupid! pls remove all yours video!

man you heard for upper burdensome???? this is old version 8 knot! ccc patetic and buy new rope pls with this you die soon!

[clint9009able]

That would be the figure 8 follow through.

[xXbackcountryXx]

this video sucked

[omatsu123]

Yes, it is necessary. Tie the tail firmly. You've tied yourself too close. It is always important to tie the tail if you want to be safe.

[alecchalmers]

@omatsu123 I agree with omatsu, always tie the tail. Although anyone who bases their climbing safety off a youtube comments section should probly stop climbing.

[GforceDown]

The knot you held up and said was a typical knot laying around WAS the figure 8knot. You demonstrated a figure 8 follow through or retraced.

[WeClimbers]

the bottom of your rope is broke it needs recut

[TheByronTube]

goes tooo fast!

[keenanric90]

moron...

[Matterific101]

To: tekphnxDo you even know who Daniel Logan is he played as 12 year old Boba Fette in Star Wars Episode II you estupido!!!!

[riothero313]

He probably learned this knot in bounty hunter training.

[Ganjamule]

idiot! you are clearly a cunt. I know a John Smith and he looks nothing like the John Smith from New York.

Cunt.

[tekphnx]

"It's not necessary, it's just for safety."

[EvanED]

Wow, so much misinformation in the comments here.

1) The figure eight in the video is fine. A little more tail would be better, especially for beginners, but there's no question I'd take almost any top rope fall on that knot he tied.

2) He is correct that a safety knot isn't really needed. The figure eight is plenty secure enough on its own -- if you have enough tail to tie a safety knot, you don't need to do so. (That said, tying a safety knot makes sure you have enough to tie a safety knot.)

[EvanED]

3) I've never heard of rethreading the figure eight from the top (i.e. from the end that goes to the top of the wall). Not only do I not know that such a knot would be secure, I have reason to believe that it wouldn't be. I would not climb on such a knot, and would not belay someone who tied in with one.

The load on the knot if you were to do this is the same as if you ring-loaded a correctly tied retraced figure eight, and is a failure mode of the knot.

[EvanED]

4) Variations on the bowline are an acceptable tie-in knot, and there are some somewhat reputable sources that recommend it over the figure eight. (See, e.g., the double bowline and the bowline with a Yosemite finish.) The principle benefit is that the figure eight can become very difficult to untie after being loaded, while the bowline doesn't suffer this problem.

The bowline's principle drawback is that, while it remains a solid knot under continued tension, there is some concern that it...

[EvanED]

...can untie itself under normal use. I would suggest that a backup for the bowline variations is a very good idea, though not everyone agrees it's necessary.

The bowline is also a little bit weaker than the figure eight, but the difference is so slim that you'd never hit it without a nasty lead whipper (i.e. not a gym climb).

Of course, YMMV with all of this advice; I'm not that experienced climbing, but I have done a bit, and I've read a *ton* on this sort of thing recently.

[heathenwalking]

It isn't bad. I'd be happy to climb on that. How ever this only applies in the gym, If that rope was wet or icy I wouldn't be happy about it. I'd want to have a stopper with a good tail. It is never really stated that it should only go for the gym.

[theemurf]

@heathenwalking I find there is no vids on youtube with a full 5 stars cause they all seem to have flaws, dya know of a place on the net that has proper sound info? Not lookin for a substitute for lessons but a reference site would be handy. Thanks...

[skaterfr3ak1212]

where is this gym?

[mnutt12]

god what a turd

[Raythomos]

Thanks for the video bro...guys pls advise whioch is batter?..whether to tie the 2nd 8 knot from the top to botom or bottom to top?..

Thnaks... :)

[skaterfr3ak1212]

well im not really sure what you mean, but ussually you follow the 1st figure 8 knot from the bottom to top... did that answer your question

[Casando6000]

wow. I'd get kicked out of my gym if I tried tying a figure 8 like that.

[thetree21220]

Becuase bowlines can come undone fairly easily. For the people saying you go from top to bottom have fun flipping if you ever take a lead fall. For once this guy is right. You go bottom to top. Also in almost every gym they require the tie off half fishermens knot. It just makes it extra safe.

[xrayer123]

WHY don't you use bowline's???? they are much easyer

[catsgame]

also apparently have untied themselves a couple of times. don't know the details, but seems like they're more likely to fail

[digital5k]

Bowlines are prone to slipping when wet, and more suited for quick situations, like an emergency loop for retrieval. If you have time you should always go with a figure eight follow-through. It also puts less line stress in by not making tight loops to pinch a single lead.

[carloswoodford]

a single bowline can come undone when not loaded, using a double bowline with the tail tucked back out through "the hole" and secured with a double fishermans around "the tree" is completly safe and will be easy to untie after any number of big falls. more complicated and harder to check if you are not familiar but a great knot when required

[galileonworld]

thanks, i didnt climb for a whole year, and I completely forgot about the figure-of-8, this helped me do it again. the other posters are right about the top-to-bottom loading and the additional knot though, would be nice to re-record the video with these...

[dbarless]

wow...this guy said a backup knot on a figure-8 retrace is "for safety, but not necessary"

holy effin S#$T!!!!!!!!!!!

never take anything for granted, especially the intelligence of douche bags who make retarded videos!

[howiroll12]

actually nowadays they don't require a backup knot---many guiding companies don't use a backup (double fishermans). I was always taught to do so, however and always use it. Just sayin.

[smeghead666]

DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS GUY

"Expertvillage" has been making a name for itself by allowing (Even Paying) standard numptys to come along and "teach" others how to climb/parachute etc.

I'm willing to bet this kid has never touched real stone in his life...

ALWAYS feed the rope from TOP TO BOTTOM this way the knot will be loaded in a way that'll keep you upright.

The video demonstrates a way of tying the rope that almost ensures you will flip upside down from a lead fall = Banged head = hospital

[alanapain]

ye i agree i thought it was really wierd wen he threaded it from bottom up

[MrBThatsMe]

Bullshit.

[stevenxnx]

what would happen if you passed the rope through, from the top of the harness, to the bottom of the harness and then tying the 2nd figure 8 knot?

[jimecallaw2]

nothing bad, it's just recommended you go from top to bottom because the bottom one is easier to overlook or miss.

[smeghead666]

That's the right way to do it

[nathanieldoom]

Neatly explained, yet it's probably better to re-record this, recommending the longer tail and a double half-hitch to lock off. It's good practice. D