Added: 10 months ago
From: snapfactory
Views: 29,094
Sort by time | Sort by thread (beta)

Link to this comment:

Share to:

All Comments (74)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • Love your videos! When you do the 4 min exp. how to you sort out star trailing. A 4 min startrail looks --- not so good. I can´t do more than 20 sec before the stars start blurring?

  • I'm curious why you set the white balance even though you were shooting in RAW. Is there a reason for that?

  • Great tutorial:)

  • Subbed! You explain everything amazingly and so easy to copy. Your a boss.

  • you are my master :)

    i'm learning alot from you

  • Wow thats truly amazing :)

  • this sh*t is crazy :x :D awesome tutorial !!

  • how to get the exposure meter displayed on the LCD screen ?

  • How come when i do this with my canon eos 1000-d at a long exposure time , i tend to get a fuzzy image even though my subject is static. is it my camera/ lens? or what can be wrong?

  • aaaaaaaaawwwwwwwwwwww awesome

  • what do you think about the d7000?

  • Great inspiration Mark. You used a timed exposure release cord with the Nikon but what did you use for the Canon? Did you use the in camera metering system?

    Thanks

  • Mark,

    In the video "Choosing the Right Lens", you said that using 2 lenses for a wedding is better. But, do you think that using 2 cameras is necessary? I need your reply soon! Thanks. (Because I photographed a wedding last week, and couldn't get good results. Like, one moment I was photographing portraits and other moment, people said me to take a group shot... and I didn't have time to change the lenses.)

  • @MrShooter1000 Usually wedding photographers have 2 cameras with them, one with a telephone lens and one with a wide angle lens so they just switch in max. 4 seconds. but changing a lens takes about 30 seconds to 1 minute. Use two cameras. The best telephoto lens for wedding shots is Canon 70-200L f.2 II and get 24-70L f2.8 for group shots.

  • @ashkibala1 Thanks. You just have helped me ;) I have to buy a wide angle lens like you said.

  • @MrShooter1000 you are welcome, the telephone lens is told you is 70-200L f2.8, not f2. the 24-70 and 70-200 will give you great shots. they are not cheap, each of them is about 1-1.5k but trust me, they are totally worth it.

  • My GOSH! Please tell what lav mic you guys used! It did an AMAZING job of only capturing your voice despite the coyotes!

  • Hello. Once again a great video to learn.

    Just a little question : what is the kind of remote whih is connect to your D3s?

  • Good, what about those images where sky is all black and stars blurry motioned. No Moon around?

  • Hi Mark! I always get a lot of noise in the sky when I shoot at night , I always use iso 100 and I do not understand why this happens. What could I do to prevent this?

  • I've done a lot of night shots in pitch black. What I do to focus, I take a flash light, illuminate my subject, and use the AF to focus on it.

  • Could you explain what are the parameters to be set to make a timelapse?

    Thanks for all your videos.

  • Christ after watchin a few videos this intro does your head in. Sorry cant watch any more of it

  • Hi Mark,

    I've loved photography for years and recently bought a Sony A55 with the intention of going pro, I've watched all of the 1 on 1 videos and they're extremely helpful to someone like me who is learning the basics.

    Which filters would you recommended in different scenarios?

  • Hi Mark, I enjoyed this and all the videos I have watched of yours.

    Thanks!

    How about video going further with night photography to capture the stars, moon and maybe some planets? I’ve also seen where several pictures are taken and overlaid each other in software. I’m a newbee here and have my tripod ready… if it would only stop raining and clear up in Ohio.

  • what kind of remote is that and where can i buy it?

  • At 0:21, you showed the picture with people in the foreground, but in the video, you described only taking landscape shots with 4minute exposure.

    How do you incorporate people and flash to this long exposure?

    Is it that the people can move away after the front curtain flash and then the camera can keep going on for the background? or have the people rush in the end for rear curtain flash?

    Thanks,

    memonPhoto

  • @memonvideo No flash was used. The people were shot with a 3 second exposure at ISO 12,800.

  • @snapfactory That ISO can only be used with a Full frame sensor correct? My T2i can not pull this off I dont think. I also have issues with getting White balance correct sense it does not have a incandescent setting. tungsten is too blue looking. All other settings give me an orange glow. I am in the city area but not right in the middle of it, rather the edge of the mountain range.

  • Comment removed

  • @memonvideo Parameters of this picture are showed at @7:44

  • Another good tool I have found for shots like this is a high power spotlight ( as one would find in most sporting goods stores or Adorama.com ;D ). When looking through the eyepice I use the spotlight to get a better idea of what I'm photographing. Many of them also come with a red lens cap so you don't scare away any wildlife.

  • Great vid.. I might get me one of those timers + gorrilapod

    Those coyotes sound scary as hell..

  • what ar uoaa files? :P

    no really, you're videos are just the best I've ever seen

  • I look forward to every new video that is posted.

  • Hi Tom, my name is Tommy and I love your videos! I have one question tho, I did a photoshoot for a car magazine, with girls, now the hard part is: I had to light up the car and the girl as well to make it look nice, but it did not work, it looked horrible and amateur, would you have any suggestion how to light up a model at night?

  • i would never imagine something this beautiful could be seen at night (pitch black). great work ... amazing.. beautiful,,, wonderful... and i am out of words..

  • New shirt!!!!

  • Could you explain how to realize the timelapse photography?

  • Comment removed

  • Mark, Love your work and great videos. I can't seem to get reasonably sharp (no star movement) night images when I go above 15 seconds exposures with a Sigma 50mm at f1.4 up 5.6. I live just North of Sydney Australia. There would be happy times in my pants if I could get a shot like you got of the mountains and a cactus (?), 59 seconds, f5.6 at ISO 800 with what looks like no star movement. You didn't mention what focal length you where using. Is that the diffence????

  • @ozdocoman This is not so much a trick with the camera and more of a trick with the direction the photo is taken. If you take a picture facing directly north or south the stars will only be slightly rotating. When the photo is taken to the east or west the stars are really moving accross the sky. Of course it is the earth that is moving but you get the idea.

  • @jondafurb Thanks for that, I'll give that a try. I haven't ventured any further than my backyard as yet so I'm kinda limited to the South East. Thanks again.

  • great shot's, very good item

  • hey mark can i do this on my d3100?

  • No dislikes so far! Thanks for doing these, Mark!

  • The mountain is a great example of this tecnique at work.

  • great Episode Mark!

  • What if you don't have a focus distance guide on your lens?

  • @BlakeinatorMate Every lens has a distance guide.

  • @SuperHolybasil Not the kit lens or the canon nifty fifty f/1.8 II

  • @BlakeinatorMate Proof that Nikon is superior :P

  • hey Mark great video. But what if you do have a cable release. can you just use the camera on it own? 

  • Hey mark, could I use the Canon RC-6 Wireless Remote Control for this? I'm thinking about getting the RC but I don't know if it has a timer function available.

  • hey mark could you show us some star gazing-astronomy photography?

  • When shooting anmals or people in the dark (by moonlight) like Mark has, how do you compensate for the physical movement which is going to show at a 4 minute exposure?

  • Wow!!

  • thank you very much!!

  • Not an official answer, but:

    Moonlight is around 4100K, Sunlight usually about 6500K, and tungsten/incandescent settings usually around 3200K. This is because the moon is an imperfect reflector, and the color shifts with the extra travel.

    You need to set the WB so that that your camera LCD will display properly. It will also be recorded in the EXIF of the RAW file, so when you open it in your image editing application, it will start with a good approximation of the right white balance.

  • if you're shooting for 4 mins. don't you get star trails?

  • @dixgg I'm pretty sure no. To obtain star trails you must be like over 30 minutes with the shutter open. Just check out for your aperture to be set correctly so you don´t get them blurry. Cheers.

  • Wow Mark you're Genius!

    Thanks a lot for sharing your art with us :)

  • Very clear images when it looks so dark Mark, will this work with my D90 as you didn't say which camera you were using although its a Nikon.

  • @joinerkev Yes, it will work with your D90. Check out 7:22 all cameras and settings are shown.

  • Question: why set it to RAW and an incandescent WB? Since you're shooting RAW anyway, can't you just adjust the WB in post-processing? I'm unfamiliar with the difference. Does adjusting WB in advance allow for more flexibility in post-processing? If anyone knows, I'd appreciate it. :)

  • You say to set the color balance to Incandescent for the best initial setting. Wouldn't Sunlight be the best choice since the moon is actually just reflected sunlight?

  • Very very cool!!!!

  • Great tutorial Mark looking fwd to see more.

  • What I don't get is how you get the threes and the people to not be blurry :/ How did they manage to stay still for 4 minutes?

    And even though the images looked great, why make them look (almost) as if they where shot in daylight? I mean wouldn't some of the point of shooting at night be to make it look like night?

  • @TheOats Actually. At 7:44 you can see the settings used for the group shot. 3 sec, ISO: 12,800, f/2.8 so that'll explain why there is no blur.

    As for shooting at night, I guess it's a novelty. Some of the shots with stars in them are obviously not possible in the day.

  • Your videos are very very helpful. Thanks for doing what you do.

  • Thank you Mark .....Thumbs up people!!!!

Loading...
Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more