The bolt that holds the linkage to the rack can be accessed from inside the car at the bottom of the column. There is a cover inside under the brake pedal. Just thought it might make it easier than going at it from the underside.
tip that worked for me just when doing outer tie rods, put a quick squirt of grey primer on the adjusting nut and inner tie rod threads, let it dry for a few minutes and you have an even more accurate measurement of where the nut goes
For my 2007 tsx, it says that to prevent SRS damage, i have to remove the steering wheel before removing steering shaft connecting bolt....is it really mandatory or optional, because i dont want to mess with it. let me know please
Thanks for posting. I did this repair on a 2000 Chevy Venture. What a beast. I never could get the boot back on and figured that the mileage on the car would justify skipping the boot.
This was a difficult repair in a home garage without a lift. Lying prone of the floor with the subframe supported but inches from my chest was scary.
I have an Alero with the same problem, but I think I'll take it to a pro.
Why do you remove the outer ends when they are already on the rack only to put them back on in the exact same spot?
@irishgod84 I know when you do gear jobs on diffs you need to drive for a while at low speeds taking it very easy so the gears have time to break in. if you dont then later on you can get a very loud wining noise from the diffs as the gears have warped due to heat and such. perhaps something similar to do with the eminence forces placed on the gear teeth in the steering box.
Does any one know if you have to drive the vehicle for about a week, and get a front end allignment for the vehicle to run properly after a rack and pin job? I was told this by multiple sources but it just does not sound right to me.
@irishgod84 Sounds like BS to me-as far as I know, you immediately get an alignment, not wait a week-that makes no sense to me. It's a car, not a house...I don't see why it would need to "settle" before the alignment.
Nice Vid... How long did it actually take you to do ? What's the Flat rate pay ?(How long do they give you to do it ). By the way, you didn't have to turn the fan off, we could still hear you ... Poor Guy .... Make Him Sweat like that. ;-)
Here is a tip. instead of counting threads, break the locknut loose and take off the outer tie rod end. Put the end of the tie rod at the locknut and scribe a line. On new unit, screw the locknut on until the nut is the same distance as marked on the tie rod end. Works good for me
They make it so hard to work on cars all they care about are the looks.. Just jam everything in one little area and who cares if you have to fix it someday....
that is NOT how you remove the outter tie rods.....great way to break/crack your steering knuckle. use a three jaw puller....i'd really like to know what company you work for so i never take my vehicles to one of their shops.
If your knuckle cracks with just a few blows with a mallet, you've got bigger problems than a damaged outer tie rod end. A three-jaw puller works very well, as you suggested, but not many technicians use it in the interest of saving time. I use a three-jaw puller on ball joints and even on stuck brake discs, but I recognize that not many people are interested in saving the old one.
@sbakar as an ase certified technician, you are not permitted to cut corners. that badge on your arm represents a commitment to customers (automotive SERVICE excellence) that you will do EVERY job BY THE BOOK to ensure customer satisfaction. furthermore, this is a "how-to," video, the instructor in the video should at least mention that the recommended tool for the job is a three jaw puller, not a mallet.
The boot are replaceable, but what good is it to replace a boot for a badly leaking rack seal. rubber and oil done mix too well and will ruin the new boot. Changing a rack n' pinion can be a bear sometimes and very messy, but the satisfaction afterward is like a big O.
I guess this is one reason to change the power steering fluid. I changed mine the first time at 99k, it was pitch black and smelled terrible. Can't be good for seals.
@Chris07860 There's 2 seals on the rack and pinion assembly where the tie rods come out that actually seal the pressurized fluid inside the rack and pinion. The boots cover up these seals so you can't see them from the outside. Those seals are what's actually leaking which is why the rack and pinion's being replaced. There's supposed to be NO fluid at all inside those boots. The purpose of the boots is just to keep dirt and dust off those seals.
Some things are better left to the professionals.
chechnya 1 week ago
The bolt that holds the linkage to the rack can be accessed from inside the car at the bottom of the column. There is a cover inside under the brake pedal. Just thought it might make it easier than going at it from the underside.
techcrawler 1 week ago
would be nice to have a lift......I work in my driveway. sux to be poor.
jeepers2655 2 weeks ago 2
tip that worked for me just when doing outer tie rods, put a quick squirt of grey primer on the adjusting nut and inner tie rod threads, let it dry for a few minutes and you have an even more accurate measurement of where the nut goes
Vacmasterthegreat 2 weeks ago
Great video man. You gave a lot of good, useful advice. Thanks.
therotaryrocket 3 weeks ago
For my 2007 tsx, it says that to prevent SRS damage, i have to remove the steering wheel before removing steering shaft connecting bolt....is it really mandatory or optional, because i dont want to mess with it. let me know please
dimskees 2 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
1:06 HORN WORKS!! lol but a great diy, thank you
tubeking1900 3 months ago
Comment removed
tubeking1900 3 months ago
EVIDENCE
SilentServiceCode 3 months ago
i go to automotive do u i dont think so
MrVindog1992 3 months ago
your suppose to remove the bolt connecting the high pressure line with a wrench not a pry bar
MrVindog1992 3 months ago
@MrVindog1992 He did. They just didn't bother to show the actual unscrewing of the bolt.
mailpup 3 months ago
Have you driven a Ford lately? Hell no.
extremediyer 4 months ago
Thanks for posting. I did this repair on a 2000 Chevy Venture. What a beast. I never could get the boot back on and figured that the mileage on the car would justify skipping the boot.
This was a difficult repair in a home garage without a lift. Lying prone of the floor with the subframe supported but inches from my chest was scary.
I have an Alero with the same problem, but I think I'll take it to a pro.
AlwaysHopeful87 4 months ago 2
Why do you remove the outer ends when they are already on the rack only to put them back on in the exact same spot?
@irishgod84 I know when you do gear jobs on diffs you need to drive for a while at low speeds taking it very easy so the gears have time to break in. if you dont then later on you can get a very loud wining noise from the diffs as the gears have warped due to heat and such. perhaps something similar to do with the eminence forces placed on the gear teeth in the steering box.
INCC74656I 5 months ago
@INCC74656I Reman. Racks usually only come with the inner tie rod ends not the outer ones.
MrTone81 1 month ago
DONT BE BULSSSSSIT FUCITAAIWWWWWWan brodocs
reinoimee 6 months ago
i have a 93 honda accord how am i supposed to know if its my rack
TheNickjenn 8 months ago
Does any one know if you have to drive the vehicle for about a week, and get a front end allignment for the vehicle to run properly after a rack and pin job? I was told this by multiple sources but it just does not sound right to me.
irishgod84 10 months ago
@irishgod84 Sounds like BS to me-as far as I know, you immediately get an alignment, not wait a week-that makes no sense to me. It's a car, not a house...I don't see why it would need to "settle" before the alignment.
dragontearz34 9 months ago
Soup ? who said anything about soup?
TheWhupper 10 months ago
lots of great info..i love your vids.
AnUglyAmerican 11 months ago
how much dose this cost ?
pornos60 11 months ago
Nice Vid... How long did it actually take you to do ? What's the Flat rate pay ?(How long do they give you to do it ). By the way, you didn't have to turn the fan off, we could still hear you ... Poor Guy .... Make Him Sweat like that. ;-)
asecobra 1 year ago
Here is a tip. instead of counting threads, break the locknut loose and take off the outer tie rod end. Put the end of the tie rod at the locknut and scribe a line. On new unit, screw the locknut on until the nut is the same distance as marked on the tie rod end. Works good for me
boaterbil 1 year ago
@boaterbil so theres no bleeder valve; just move the steering wheel back and forth?
sticksbass 1 year ago
my girlfriends girl friend is gettin off to u dude!!!! u rock!!
TheCrazyroddy 1 year ago
Awesome thank you very helpful!
bobysee 1 year ago
too easy !!!
fastvpbt1 1 year ago
They make it so hard to work on cars all they care about are the looks.. Just jam everything in one little area and who cares if you have to fix it someday....
How5by5 1 year ago
Comment removed
pzapir8 1 year ago
that is NOT how you remove the outter tie rods.....great way to break/crack your steering knuckle. use a three jaw puller....i'd really like to know what company you work for so i never take my vehicles to one of their shops.
pzapir8 1 year ago
@pzapir8
If your knuckle cracks with just a few blows with a mallet, you've got bigger problems than a damaged outer tie rod end. A three-jaw puller works very well, as you suggested, but not many technicians use it in the interest of saving time. I use a three-jaw puller on ball joints and even on stuck brake discs, but I recognize that not many people are interested in saving the old one.
sbakar 1 year ago 2
@sbakar as an ase certified technician, you are not permitted to cut corners. that badge on your arm represents a commitment to customers (automotive SERVICE excellence) that you will do EVERY job BY THE BOOK to ensure customer satisfaction. furthermore, this is a "how-to," video, the instructor in the video should at least mention that the recommended tool for the job is a three jaw puller, not a mallet.
pzapir8 1 year ago
I wish I would have seen this vid about a year ago! I never thought to drop the sub frame. Exelent vid as always guys!
Northernstar9370 1 year ago
The boot are replaceable, but what good is it to replace a boot for a badly leaking rack seal. rubber and oil done mix too well and will ruin the new boot. Changing a rack n' pinion can be a bear sometimes and very messy, but the satisfaction afterward is like a big O.
Standingwithfeast 1 year ago
I guess this is one reason to change the power steering fluid. I changed mine the first time at 99k, it was pitch black and smelled terrible. Can't be good for seals.
studpuppy69 1 year ago
One thing I don't understand is can't you just replace the boot that is leaking?
Chris07860 1 year ago
@Chris07860 maybe the boots are not replaceable? I wanna know too..
mrjost55 1 year ago
@Chris07860 There's 2 seals on the rack and pinion assembly where the tie rods come out that actually seal the pressurized fluid inside the rack and pinion. The boots cover up these seals so you can't see them from the outside. Those seals are what's actually leaking which is why the rack and pinion's being replaced. There's supposed to be NO fluid at all inside those boots. The purpose of the boots is just to keep dirt and dust off those seals.
dmorley100 1 year ago 2
or you just put a white mark on the thread of where the nut was.
Chris07860 1 year ago
@Chris07860 when the rack is replaced, so are the inner tie rods, so a mark on the old parts wouldn't help much.
fixinggrace 1 year ago