How to ice-axe self arrest

[lagerbaer]

And remember, it's really important that the ax is below your upper body. If you use it on outstretched arms, there's no weight on it and you'll keep on slipping.

Oh, and once you've come to a reasonable stop, it never hurts to kick your feet in extra deep to make sure you stay where you are.

[djapanaa]

good video. doable if there is no panic

[bosbloempje]

Because it's not clear for everyone: About the no crampons and don't attach the axe to yourself: that's for training, there is a chance you hurt yourself with this things. In case of a real dangerous situation, you CAN try to use your crampons if you think it will help you survive your specific situation.

Attaching the axe to yourself may also a good idea, in my opinion. Even when the axe is not attached to you, you can hurt yourself with it during a fall, so why should you risk losing it?

[MelancholicBard]

I was at the mountain two days ago. I didn't have any "Ice-Axe Self Arrest Education". As it was an easy mountain, we we're not supposed to slip, but the guy behind me fell, also causing two other guys with me start falling to, hit me from my back and this video saved me there. Thank you very much, I owe you one!

[socalhockey72]

Great video. Very helpful for a guy who's trying to learn. Thanks!

[datlik9]

the one most helpful video about ice axe. Thanks

[datlik9]

the one most helpful video about ice axe

[theOGslagster127]

last comment i promise

but either you a young swiss or fench or eytie who had a few falls before

or you some old arse fool who tired of his cashiers talking about coronation street and embarrasing you wives at the christmas party so you rather drag her out alps somewhere come chrimbo and have her hope you throw you self dddown the slope too hard that you crampons dont stick/do stick/shater you hip/knee la la la...

[theOGslagster127]

to be honest

i'm 34 already

and never fell down a mountain

but some things are instinctive

and some things are best practised when you five years old and you body too small and too light to get hurt when you rag doll down a snow drenched 45 deg slope

when you fifty and been manager of a high street bank+took you missus skiing twice a year it dont matter what bone cheaper to break on you insurance hip knee ankle whatever. things i jump of as ten year old at least two times too high to think now

[HanifJodeiry]

Extremely helpful for an amateur like me! Great & thanks a million :)

[Cindywong2000]

Advice in the end: Never wear crampons. Are you shitting me? Why wasting a good video with shitty comments?

[kb6ooc]

@Cindywong2000 I think they meant that you shouldn't use crampons while PRACTICING the self arrest.

[moviemaster2010]

he should do this right annext to a cliff

[susanbunch1980]

This video has so helpful! You should enter your video in this contest, Ewisdomtv

[lvsitiwdr]

I tried some of that before. Very usefull video.

[urriel74]

Yeah, everything is right in the video but the real problems starts when the ice is REALLY HARD!!

[3tangle3]

@urriel74 what you do then in that hard ice case?

[FireMedicLo4]

Sobering.

We intend to ascend Mt. Whitney in questionable ice conditions. This video will at least give us a chance, should we get in over our heads.

Thanks!

[lijianliu]

Same here. We are planning to hike the switchback on Saturday morning. Just bought an Ice-Axe from REI for $79.99. Glad to watch this video.

[RenoGregory]

very helpful

[Focoist911]

What happens if you lose your axe?

[Shutterguy]

OOPS....splat

[snakedike]

Seen that happen on Shasta the first time I climbed. Guy lost it glisading in his first arrest attempt at the top of red banks. Didn't stop for 2500 feet. He was bouncing 6 feet off the snow. Walked away with bruises. Damn Lucky.

[Focoist911]

O.k., so how about this guy do one with the Clampons only? Or it aint possible?

I'm just saying - I bet half the doods who die lose their axe.

You can't tie the axe to ya cause you will fall on it.

So what? Don't lose the axe? Cold hands? Easy.

So what about the clamp-ons - the state of the union address, statement to the country, whatever you call it?

[LocutusMIT]

It is possible; just much harder. You'll need to dig your elbows or gloves in as securely as possible.  DON'T try to use your crampons.

[Focoist911]

Do you know any video examples of what happens if you use your clamp-ons?

[StefanoPelinga]

what boots is he wearing?

I am quite curious

[LososInDaHouse]

It seems to be Scarpa Vega

[StefanoPelinga]

thanky hoooo

[Focoist911]

pause the video, roll your mouse over the boots, and an add pops up where you can purchase them Best Price nearest to your country IP.

[pufifa]

great vid! thanks

[benzoburnyou]

Great video,wish they had a section with all of these indexed depending on the subject.A special section for very worth it videos out there :)

[2ndOfficerCHL]

Excellent advice. Thanks for the video.

[ma1achite]

Very helpful. Thanks!

[d3713]

This is a great video with very important information!

[cuilleree]

Thanks for uploading this really helpful video! You might want to add the tag "mountaineering" to make it easier to find. I really liked the quality of the instruction and how easy it was to follow with his demonstrations.

[maryclarereinhardt]

Quick question...how do I download this (or any) video (file) to my computer?

[lepzig1]

Thanks for this vital information.

[interruptor]

Just a couple of weeks ago I had to self arrest in a real situation - this video was really helpful. I wasn't wearing crampons, and as soon as I lifted my feet, my knees buried and slowed me down considerably. I'm guessing that even without crampons your feet might bury too quickly, and if you've gained some speed you might end up with your knees turned backwards... Also, you're supposed to react by instinct, by muscle memory, so I guess it's better to always do it the same way.

[eclaghorn]

What if you're not wearing crampons? Shouldn't you use your feet to stop your slide then? I think I would rather have three sure points of contact then only the pick of the ice axe and your knees.

[ITDIR]

If you are accelerating down a mountainside and your heels or toes were to dig-in the sudden stop coupled with the forward momemtum will launch you from the slope and most likely point you head first down the slope. Essentially you lose more control.

[ldu03113]

No, I slid down Ben Lui once and I instinctively tried to dig my feet in. But as ITDIR says, I just ended up tumbling for a while then head first. Which was bad.

[ilikeneurons]

Yes you're correct. The key is to keep your weight on the axe as much as possible, but with no crampons it would be silly not to use your feet. He's being a little over-cautious about the feet IMHO

[LocutusMIT]

While he is being very cautious, it's probably best not to get into the habit of using your feet. When you slip, you're most likely to do whatever you've practised automatically. If you've practised digging in your toes, and you happen to be wearing crampons, there's a good chance you'll break an ankle.

Besides, knees are always better in case you hit a snag-- your hip is a much stronger joint than either your ankle or your knee.

[Focoist911]

So smart ass, you're at MIT? Go watch The Obama Deception and see just how smart you are.

[flubertin]

@LocutusMIT To practice a self-arrest it is not wise to use crampons. These get in the way and hinder progress and can be quite dangerous.

[LocutusMIT]

@flubertin Exactly my point.

[lagerbaer]

@flubertin Exactly. If you practice self-arrest, you'll do it, what, like 20 times in a row. So if there's a 5% chance to hurt yourself with crampons, then that's already quite dangerous.

[leetlau]

Compact efficient technique - a must watch

[renaistre]

This is one of the few cases where YouTube could actually save your life. =)

[birdgirl1968]

Excellent video.

[HilariousD]

This guy has some of the best ice-axe self arrest technique i´ve ever seen!