I have recently made Jitte. It's easy. Just make the guards out of pipe insulation and then firm them up with Gorilla Tape. If that isn't firm enough for you, I have used the stem of a fake flower (it is basically padded wire). You shape it for the guard and then put pipe insulation over it.
Yes, but then none of these designs would pass a lot of inspections. NERO has a rule, and so does SCA that noting can be smaller than 2 inches across. Non of my weapons meet the requirement. The fact is, yes, it might hurt, but no one has complained and we play a light style, not an adult "real" combat style.
using the little strip of foam for a larping katana on the backside makes me doubt it would pass any organized larping inspection. Sure it would look great but it seems to me it would be very dangerous.
Yes the tip needs to be wide so it doesn't fold over. You can make it thinner if you use the closed cell foam for a tip, but it will be harder and you will have to be more careful with it. The problem with a thin tip is it will fold over and then you will hit players with the padded bar instead of the soft point.
does the thrusting tip of the sword have to be left wide on the edges? or can you shave the open cell foam down to better fit with the thickness of the blade?
And after the foam has been carved to the shape you want (making sure there is still the aforementioned min thickness) the weapon is finished with a latex coating/painting. This will also give the weapon a greater stability and rigidity which would overcome that problem you mentioned about longer weapons being whippy.
While I appreciate the effort you went into making the demonstration and you seem to know the ins and outs of this design, this type of sword wouldn't hold water in a British LARP system. Duct tape isn't allowed to be used (or at least be visible and I have used it on occasions to repair, but is never visible in the final result ). With regards to Foam and core a minimum of 12mm thick foam on the striking surface and 6mm on the non-striking surface, at no point can core be exposed.
would you be able to latex these when they're finished for extra security and style?
deathguy66 7 months ago
I have recently made Jitte. It's easy. Just make the guards out of pipe insulation and then firm them up with Gorilla Tape. If that isn't firm enough for you, I have used the stem of a fake flower (it is basically padded wire). You shape it for the guard and then put pipe insulation over it.
FantasyWarplay 11 months ago
Help please! How would you make a sturdy sai?
JKTCGMV13 11 months ago
The foam is called Ozark Trail Camp Mat Foam. You can get it at Walmart for 5.88 a roll.
FantasyWarplay 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
sorry for my bad eglish, but I`m no national speaker
so my question:
the blue stuff, what`s the name of it
nameless2170 1 year ago
Sorry for my bad english, but im not a nationalspeaker
so my question
this blue stoff, what`s the name of it
nameless2170 1 year ago
Yes, but then none of these designs would pass a lot of inspections. NERO has a rule, and so does SCA that noting can be smaller than 2 inches across. Non of my weapons meet the requirement. The fact is, yes, it might hurt, but no one has complained and we play a light style, not an adult "real" combat style.
FantasyWarplay 1 year ago
using the little strip of foam for a larping katana on the backside makes me doubt it would pass any organized larping inspection. Sure it would look great but it seems to me it would be very dangerous.
Bluemagus 1 year ago
Yes the tip needs to be wide so it doesn't fold over. You can make it thinner if you use the closed cell foam for a tip, but it will be harder and you will have to be more careful with it. The problem with a thin tip is it will fold over and then you will hit players with the padded bar instead of the soft point.
FantasyWarplay 1 year ago
does the thrusting tip of the sword have to be left wide on the edges? or can you shave the open cell foam down to better fit with the thickness of the blade?
sorrowz2000 1 year ago
How do these vids have so few views? This is probably the best way to make the swords.
ieatpie54321 1 year ago
And after the foam has been carved to the shape you want (making sure there is still the aforementioned min thickness) the weapon is finished with a latex coating/painting. This will also give the weapon a greater stability and rigidity which would overcome that problem you mentioned about longer weapons being whippy.
not9t 1 year ago
While I appreciate the effort you went into making the demonstration and you seem to know the ins and outs of this design, this type of sword wouldn't hold water in a British LARP system. Duct tape isn't allowed to be used (or at least be visible and I have used it on occasions to repair, but is never visible in the final result ). With regards to Foam and core a minimum of 12mm thick foam on the striking surface and 6mm on the non-striking surface, at no point can core be exposed.
not9t 1 year ago
great videos
but unlucky,I live in Australia
LaMsT3Rr 1 year ago
Great series. Really long but well done. 5 stars.
TylersTerrain 1 year ago