If any Air conditioning system has a leak - it needs to be repaired. R-134A systems along with newer R-410A system use POE oil which absorbs moisture very easily. When the oil absorbs moisture it creates acid which. destroys your compressor and system parts. Any system with a leak needs to be repaired, flushed, change compressor oil, vacuum pumped down to 250 microns. There is not a vacuum pump time limit or time frame. Proper servicing requires a micron gauge be installed in line with the vacu
I'm wonder if is so easy to recharge the a/c system why outo repair shop buy RRR machines, looks so stupid to spend 5,000 dollar on an a/c machine when you can do the job with out the machine. of course with out proper equipment and training your not doing it right. is a guess game to charge the system like this "pro" advise. The proper way to do it is recover the refrigerant, evacuate the system for at least 30 minutes, and then charge by weight.
Great vid. Thanks for using our SubZero product. Remember to always check the ambient temperature and use that to determine the proper fill pressure. our pressure charts are at idqusa:
You should be filling the low side of the compressor , where the springloaded fittings on these can/type refilling kits only goes. Set your fan to high , and also set your A/C control to "recirculate" , as that drops the pressure in the system - allowing you to get more refrigerant into the system - as opposed to bi-level. Then switch to bi-level if the can is not empty. You should also always be wearing safety glasses and gloves , because the can will freeze - when it is part of the system.
I've got a 1995 Crown Victoria that needs the A/C recharged. What can I do, before buying this kit, to be sure that my system doesn't need to be vacuumed by a shop? I want to check so I don't waste more money buying this kit if I would just wind up having to go to a shop anyway. Thanks.
@bigbob1122 For starters I'd double check to make sure the vehicle takes r134a and not r12. From there I would turn the car and A/C on and determine if the A/C compressor kicks in. If it does, then you should be able to refill it. If it does not kick on then either it's broken or there's not enough freon in the system to allow it to engage. At that point I would be concerned about the seals functioning correctly. An A/C diagnostic can run from 50 to 100 dollars. IF you check the weekly circulars
@bigbob1122 (part 2) then you are likely to find coupons for diagnostic service. Another option is that many cars have an override mechanism that will force the compressor on for filling purposes. I'm not familiar with the car you reference, so I don't know the exact method. If you do this and the A/C dies again, then you definitely have a leak. I wouldn't be suprised if your orings are completely dried out on a 16 year old vehicle.
@TheyMightBeRacing Thanks for the info. I really appreciate it. I just wanted to know what to check before I get in over my head. The vehicle belongs to my grandmother who used to keep regular maintenance on it-so hopefully all the A/C needs is recharging. Thanks again.
I love reading how the " professionals" say do this and don't do that. Text books will never replace hands on experience. Ive been working on ac systems for 30 years On just about every car, truck, tractor or excavator equipped with AC. Their techniques differ from mine but I'm blowing ice-cycles and that's all that really matters in the end. I'm blowing 37 degrees at the vents on my 97 GMC. I changed the compressor, dryer and orifice tube 2 years ago and never hooked a vacume pump to it.
@Robrt32 I don't think it's absolutely necessary to hook up a vaccuum pump to an AC system after servicing it but I did anyway when I replaced the damaged condenser and receiver/dryer in my 00 Maxima, I used the pump along with manifold gauges to see if I still had a leak in the system and thankfully it didn't.
Word to the wise...if you are using the Quest Re-chill kit on an Olds 2003 Alero (and some other year models), the port is down near the firewall and you will be right near the alternator belt. Don't do it unless you can get a longer hose with gauge like TMBR has...even then, it is in a dangerous spot. Leave this one to a pro if you feel uncomfortable with it. With the kit, there isn't even any room to read the gauge or shake the can.
If you want to properly evacuate and recharge a system you need a refrigerant collecting machine. You need to fully recover every bit of refrigerant from your system and you should have a set of manifold gauges hooked up to the system while doing this. Once the system is devoid of all refrigerant you need to pull it into a vacuum for 5 minutes to make sure it's all gone. Then evacuate the system of all air down to 30Hg of vacuum and let it sit for 15 minutes so boil out any moisture.
You can do more damage than good trying to recharge your own a/c system if you are not completely and properly trained. You also need to have the proper equipment. A charging hose or even a manifold gauge set is not the proper equipment. The only approved method of recharging an a/c system by any manufacturer is to completely recover all refrigerant, evacuate, and then charge by weight with an accurate scale that can accurately charge within 1 oz of refrigerant.
I've added refridgerant to my own vehicles for 35 years with no negative results, and have had no "complete and proper training", nor do I possess "proper equipment." What I do have is vehicles blowing air in the 35 to 40 degree range, and thousands of dollars that I haven't handed over to "professionals" , who tend to talk down to us regular folk...much like you did in your comment. You don't happen to be in "the business" do you...hmmm?
@1oldsquare I said in my prev comment that you can (key word being can) do more damage than good. If you having been doing it successfully for that long then you obviously know what you are doing. I did not mean to talk down. Yes I am in the business, I am an ASE Master tech with almost 20 years exp. On the newer R134a systems you cannot accurately charge by reading pressures. Some newer cars only use 12 to 14 ounces of R134. If you are as little as 2 ounces under charged.... to be cont
@1oldsquare cont from prev comment. if you undercharge by as little as 2 ounces then oil may not circulate thru the system leading to early compressor failure. Also as someone else mentioned if you charge with liquid ref like turning can upside down, you can cause instant compressor damage. once again if you know what you are doing you will be fine. I just feel there is no proper substitute for a proper evac and recharge with proper equip.
@1oldsquare This made me confident enough to do this...every other vid had all types of hoses and danger of blowing your hand of for such a "should be" simple job...thanks
i see some refrigerant kits that say that they have synthetics which will remove moisture out of the the system.. is that true or hype or partially true?? there would be no point using an evacuator then?
You didnt purge the hose of air or moisture before you released the freon into the system. Therefore , you shot a good amount of contaminents into the system. Lastly, the freon has to be accurately and carefully put in...NOT by just opening a valve and shaking the can. It must be fine tuned or it will be undercharged or overcharged . PLEASE...let people take their car in to a professional to have it done right ...someone who knows how to recharge correctly and who has been properly trained.
I agree you can charge this way, but i choose not to. If a system is basically in good shape, but has minor charge loss due to 'normal' leakage. charge and go on. BUT i do not see how you keep air and hense humidity in that air out of that section of charge hose. I prefect to use AC manifold to charge. The fittings can be loosened to bleed air and I want to see the system and working with compressor cycling and hi/low pressures fluctuating.
I have a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I had a engine put in back in february and my ac worked fine before then and now it wont work. I lost my refrigerant when they did this. I tried to add a can in and it reads that it has it in there according to the pressure but it doesn't cool. Do I have to take it down to a negative pressure and then add some in? How do I know if my compressor is kicking on? I dont notice anything when I hit the ac button.
@Soldierforpeace : If your system is full of refrigerant , then either your A/C clutch relay is not working , or the wiring of the clutch is not correct or working. If you don't hear the A/C clutch engage the A/C pulley at all , you need to check both of those things. And as stated here "normal leakage" of refrigerant , is not normal. Any condensation means the system is charged , where it will completely leak out even with the smallest of leaks. If condensation , replace receiver / drier.
We have a 2003 Toyota Corolla. We did the instructions and found that the gauge was in the "red" it said "danger do not refrigerate".....what could the problem be? what should we do next?
We have a 2003 Toyota Corolla. We did the instructions and found that the gauge was in the "red" it said "danger do not refrigerate".....what could the problem be? what should we do next?
Did you raise the psi from 27 psi initial --recalibrated to 40 psi--- then add/charge to 50 psi. So you always get 2 readings before adding new R134a refrigerant.
I making this comment ONCE and ONLY ONCE. To all of you armchair mechanics that have no understanding of pressurized systems let me explain something to you. You can be low on R134a and still not have moisture and oxygen in the system. As long as the system remains pressurized at a level greater than the ambient air, then NO MOISTURE WILL GET IN. If the system is absolutely dry, then yes, have it properly vacuummed, filled and oiled. If all you are doing is adding .....
some extra refridgerant then you will not be adding moisture unless it's in the can. The cans also have oil in them, so you're adding oil to the system as well. I've been doing this to cars with no ill effect for 20 years. A good mechanic knows not only how to bolt/unbolt things, but also how they work. And in this case, it's understanding how pressurized system work.
I was just wondering, I have a 97 honda civic and the a/c just want as cool as it used to be. So I recharged it using the R134 synthetic booster can. I followed the instructions to the letter, however I feel like there has been no change in the A/C temp. Does it take a while to "take effect"? Did I do something wrong? Any help would be great. Thanks.
@82drumhead You should be able to detect the results immediately. Keep in mind, however, that wehn recirculating interior air it will only pump out air that's about 30 degrees cooler at Max AC. If your system was down too far the compressor will shut itself off, and you aren't actually adding any new R134a. If that's the case, then you should get it vacuumed and charged at a shop that knows how to trigger the compressor to run.
@TheyMightBeRacing Where do you find what the proper pressure should be for a particular car? Or is it the ambient related psi chart quest has in their website?
@jifors I try to always use the auto manufacturer's recommendations first. They're often in the manual for the car or on a sticker under the hood. For comparative purposes (because it's always hot in Arizona) I then refer to the can. Nowadays, though, I have an air conditioned garage, so I can set the temp where I want it. :)
@TheyMightBeRacing Thanks. How about the 2 readings you get before you actually start charging the system to get 50 psi (I think you said.) Is this the proper procedure--getting the 2 readings first? I live in vegas and have similar weather- high 90s today. Lastly, how often do you perform this charging?
@TheyMightBeRacing Thanks. How about the 2 readings you get before you actually start charging the system to get 50 psi (I think you said.) Is this the proper procedure--getting the 2 readings first? I live in vegas and have similar weather- high 90s today. Lastly, how often do you perform this charging?
@TheyMightBeRacing Thanks. How about the 2 readings you get before you actually start charging the system to get 50 psi (I think you said.) Is this the proper procedure--getting the 2 readings first? I live in vegas and have similar weather- high 90s today. Lastly, how often do you perform this charging?
@TheyMightBeRacing Also explain to these folks that dont know about TXV and FOT systems that you do not flip the can upside down on a TXV system, on a FOT system this is ok. The TXV system does not like liquid and you can damage the compressor. You only charge a TXV system with vapor.
Very bad way to service ur ac ... Take your vehicle to a shop where they can lube the ac compressor and vaccum the system and fully recharge the hole ac system. That would keep ur ac working great at all times
@DrewF1017 - I would recommend not trying any aftermarket sealers. They generally just don't work, and are just as likely to goober up the rest of your system, causing more items to break. I'd have the condensor professionally replaced.
@TheyMightBeRacing That's not what I was wanting to hear but it definately makes sense. To get the condensor replaced would cost ~$400 :( Thanks for the reply!
what is about the vacumm?? ha the moisture in the sistem if you dont what you say delete the video!
expplain good about how is work the a/c sistem,tell me something? how is work the expansion valve,the orfice tube?
if you add freon and dont do it vacumm where is going the air inside the sistem,may be you will restrict to put comment but i dont care, good luck with your video
what is about the vacumm?? ha the moisture in the sistem if you dont what you say delete the video!
expplain good about how is work the a/c sistem,tell me something? how is work the expansion valve,the orfice tube?
if you add freon and dont do it vacumm where is going the air inside the sistem,may be you will restrict to put comment but i dont care, good luck with your video
@ONLYUSA1 WTF are you yappin about? Please do everyone a favor and do not reply to anything if you cannot carry on a conversation or if you can not spell, dude your grammer is sooooo poor you make my daughter sound like Einstein and she's in kindergarden.
The A/C is sealed system, if its low on refridgerant then don't add some. You need to have the correct oil and oz of refridgerant.
If you have an older car and don't really care about the lifespan of the compressor then go ahead. But if you want it to work for years you need to find the leak first before you let anything else into the system itself.
if the system has no r134, and the car needs to be running at max a/c in order to recharge r134, how do you close the low/high press. switches to start the compressor?
They are open at that point. Once you open the bottle or a can the pressure in the can will force its way into the lines of the car.
AC clutch turns on and continues to draw from the can. The car might not do anything for a minute or two but once the pressure is high enough in the lines the low pressure switch will close and the clutch will turn on....
Well he did provide correct instructions...I wouldn't bother providing information on the location of the valve and pressure as well due to that every car has it's own specifications.
thanks , ur vid was the only vid with a manifold gauge i recognize. it's not as good as the dualtech one, but at least it's very reliable and portable too.
wow I live in arizona too phoenix to be precise, and Im surprised that this truck would have ac problems (its too new) The bad thing about living in the desert is that rubber dry rots thats what happend on my 1992 crown vic , the ac hoses dry rotted, but I junked the car due to its age
Yeah, I've found that there's something secific about the way that ford does their AC systems... They seem to need recharginf / have issues far more frequently than most other cars. The wife's corolla, byt comparison, hasn't lost any charge over the years.
agree on the GM A/C systems - Ive had Merc/Toyotas/Lexus/Nissans for past 12 years and only had (2) A/C repairs - changing valve needle on Lowside port of wife's Lexus and adding R134 to the Benz - 2 out of 7 and only VERY minor repairs - I now have a 99 Ram 1500 and Ive been fight'g w/it all summer (ugh!) - works great sometimes, other times no - but Im getting a manifold set (reluctantly) to fine tune it -tired of fighting - gotta have A/C - too humid down south! decent post Mike - thx.
If any Air conditioning system has a leak - it needs to be repaired. R-134A systems along with newer R-410A system use POE oil which absorbs moisture very easily. When the oil absorbs moisture it creates acid which. destroys your compressor and system parts. Any system with a leak needs to be repaired, flushed, change compressor oil, vacuum pumped down to 250 microns. There is not a vacuum pump time limit or time frame. Proper servicing requires a micron gauge be installed in line with the vacu
MrCraz6r 1 week ago
I'm wonder if is so easy to recharge the a/c system why outo repair shop buy RRR machines, looks so stupid to spend 5,000 dollar on an a/c machine when you can do the job with out the machine. of course with out proper equipment and training your not doing it right. is a guess game to charge the system like this "pro" advise. The proper way to do it is recover the refrigerant, evacuate the system for at least 30 minutes, and then charge by weight.
CouragePS3 6 months ago
Great vid. Thanks for using our SubZero product. Remember to always check the ambient temperature and use that to determine the proper fill pressure. our pressure charts are at idqusa:
mikeypawla 6 months ago
i have a question i just got a car but the ac is just blowing hot air, do i have to empty that air or just apply the R134a. ????
papago81 6 months ago
Good job, thanks!
thorntongifts 7 months ago
Don't the correct pressure also depend on the ambient temperature?
FloppyDonut 7 months ago
Thanks! Just whet I needed!
jaymmyjaym 7 months ago
Thanks for posting this! I learn by watching so this really helped!
cwood1388 7 months ago
Thank you very much for this video!! I got the same car and yhe same kit, I'm now heading out there to do it! tahnks again!!
1aztecdude 7 months ago
this is great thank you!
jollytoken 8 months ago
Thank you for the video instructions, that made refilling the A/C alot easy and painless.
ekul1021 8 months ago
You should be filling the low side of the compressor , where the springloaded fittings on these can/type refilling kits only goes. Set your fan to high , and also set your A/C control to "recirculate" , as that drops the pressure in the system - allowing you to get more refrigerant into the system - as opposed to bi-level. Then switch to bi-level if the can is not empty. You should also always be wearing safety glasses and gloves , because the can will freeze - when it is part of the system.
fthrcast 8 months ago
I've got a 1995 Crown Victoria that needs the A/C recharged. What can I do, before buying this kit, to be sure that my system doesn't need to be vacuumed by a shop? I want to check so I don't waste more money buying this kit if I would just wind up having to go to a shop anyway. Thanks.
bigbob1122 8 months ago
@bigbob1122 For starters I'd double check to make sure the vehicle takes r134a and not r12. From there I would turn the car and A/C on and determine if the A/C compressor kicks in. If it does, then you should be able to refill it. If it does not kick on then either it's broken or there's not enough freon in the system to allow it to engage. At that point I would be concerned about the seals functioning correctly. An A/C diagnostic can run from 50 to 100 dollars. IF you check the weekly circulars
TheyMightBeRacing 8 months ago
@bigbob1122 (part 2) then you are likely to find coupons for diagnostic service. Another option is that many cars have an override mechanism that will force the compressor on for filling purposes. I'm not familiar with the car you reference, so I don't know the exact method. If you do this and the A/C dies again, then you definitely have a leak. I wouldn't be suprised if your orings are completely dried out on a 16 year old vehicle.
TheyMightBeRacing 8 months ago
@TheyMightBeRacing Thanks for the info. I really appreciate it. I just wanted to know what to check before I get in over my head. The vehicle belongs to my grandmother who used to keep regular maintenance on it-so hopefully all the A/C needs is recharging. Thanks again.
bigbob1122 8 months ago
I love reading how the " professionals" say do this and don't do that. Text books will never replace hands on experience. Ive been working on ac systems for 30 years On just about every car, truck, tractor or excavator equipped with AC. Their techniques differ from mine but I'm blowing ice-cycles and that's all that really matters in the end. I'm blowing 37 degrees at the vents on my 97 GMC. I changed the compressor, dryer and orifice tube 2 years ago and never hooked a vacume pump to it.
Robrt32 8 months ago
@Robrt32 I don't think it's absolutely necessary to hook up a vaccuum pump to an AC system after servicing it but I did anyway when I replaced the damaged condenser and receiver/dryer in my 00 Maxima, I used the pump along with manifold gauges to see if I still had a leak in the system and thankfully it didn't.
7477238 7 months ago
@7477238 I had a dodge neon hose come lose - - I replaced the o-ring and put more freon in the unit - bingo - works great.
riceski 6 months ago
Word to the wise...if you are using the Quest Re-chill kit on an Olds 2003 Alero (and some other year models), the port is down near the firewall and you will be right near the alternator belt. Don't do it unless you can get a longer hose with gauge like TMBR has...even then, it is in a dangerous spot. Leave this one to a pro if you feel uncomfortable with it. With the kit, there isn't even any room to read the gauge or shake the can.
dvnobles 9 months ago
a shot of that low side valve would have been helpful
gotcalves 9 months ago
If you want to properly evacuate and recharge a system you need a refrigerant collecting machine. You need to fully recover every bit of refrigerant from your system and you should have a set of manifold gauges hooked up to the system while doing this. Once the system is devoid of all refrigerant you need to pull it into a vacuum for 5 minutes to make sure it's all gone. Then evacuate the system of all air down to 30Hg of vacuum and let it sit for 15 minutes so boil out any moisture.
orbitaldropshockspar 10 months ago
Worked for me...ahhhh nice cool air again
jaydubatl 11 months ago
its better to put the thermometer close to the condenser to check the ambient temperature. check for leaks!!!!!
gtuani 1 year ago
good job dude!
gtuani 1 year ago
hey question .a 1998 expedition you need all two of the hoses in order to recharge your AC????
BadInfluence007 1 year ago
@BadInfluence007 i have a 99 n it dosent seem to fit
trillfire 10 months ago
How cold does it blow during 120 degrees?
TheVedicStudent 1 year ago
You can do more damage than good trying to recharge your own a/c system if you are not completely and properly trained. You also need to have the proper equipment. A charging hose or even a manifold gauge set is not the proper equipment. The only approved method of recharging an a/c system by any manufacturer is to completely recover all refrigerant, evacuate, and then charge by weight with an accurate scale that can accurately charge within 1 oz of refrigerant.
ktumbleweed 1 year ago
@ktumbleweed
I've added refridgerant to my own vehicles for 35 years with no negative results, and have had no "complete and proper training", nor do I possess "proper equipment." What I do have is vehicles blowing air in the 35 to 40 degree range, and thousands of dollars that I haven't handed over to "professionals" , who tend to talk down to us regular folk...much like you did in your comment. You don't happen to be in "the business" do you...hmmm?
1oldsquare 9 months ago
@1oldsquare I said in my prev comment that you can (key word being can) do more damage than good. If you having been doing it successfully for that long then you obviously know what you are doing. I did not mean to talk down. Yes I am in the business, I am an ASE Master tech with almost 20 years exp. On the newer R134a systems you cannot accurately charge by reading pressures. Some newer cars only use 12 to 14 ounces of R134. If you are as little as 2 ounces under charged.... to be cont
ktumbleweed 9 months ago
@1oldsquare cont from prev comment. if you undercharge by as little as 2 ounces then oil may not circulate thru the system leading to early compressor failure. Also as someone else mentioned if you charge with liquid ref like turning can upside down, you can cause instant compressor damage. once again if you know what you are doing you will be fine. I just feel there is no proper substitute for a proper evac and recharge with proper equip.
ktumbleweed 9 months ago
@1oldsquare This made me confident enough to do this...every other vid had all types of hoses and danger of blowing your hand of for such a "should be" simple job...thanks
krj0829 9 months ago
i see some refrigerant kits that say that they have synthetics which will remove moisture out of the the system.. is that true or hype or partially true?? there would be no point using an evacuator then?
canoeshoe 1 year ago
you look like seth green
IDV84 1 year ago
You didnt purge the hose of air or moisture before you released the freon into the system. Therefore , you shot a good amount of contaminents into the system. Lastly, the freon has to be accurately and carefully put in...NOT by just opening a valve and shaking the can. It must be fine tuned or it will be undercharged or overcharged . PLEASE...let people take their car in to a professional to have it done right ...someone who knows how to recharge correctly and who has been properly trained.
DaveTheyCallme 1 year ago
FINALLY someone who gets to the point THANK YOU VERY MUCH DUDE this exactly helped me out with my question
bestmastermind951 1 year ago
I agree you can charge this way, but i choose not to. If a system is basically in good shape, but has minor charge loss due to 'normal' leakage. charge and go on. BUT i do not see how you keep air and hense humidity in that air out of that section of charge hose. I prefect to use AC manifold to charge. The fittings can be loosened to bleed air and I want to see the system and working with compressor cycling and hi/low pressures fluctuating.
SWD2263 1 year ago
I have a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I had a engine put in back in february and my ac worked fine before then and now it wont work. I lost my refrigerant when they did this. I tried to add a can in and it reads that it has it in there according to the pressure but it doesn't cool. Do I have to take it down to a negative pressure and then add some in? How do I know if my compressor is kicking on? I dont notice anything when I hit the ac button.
Soldierforpeace 1 year ago
@Soldierforpeace : If your system is full of refrigerant , then either your A/C clutch relay is not working , or the wiring of the clutch is not correct or working. If you don't hear the A/C clutch engage the A/C pulley at all , you need to check both of those things. And as stated here "normal leakage" of refrigerant , is not normal. Any condensation means the system is charged , where it will completely leak out even with the smallest of leaks. If condensation , replace receiver / drier.
fthrcast 8 months ago
What if you dont have the measuring device??
phigo4kins 1 year ago
to be sure how do you know whats the low pressure hose like they talk about in the other vids?
3030indaface 1 year ago
I have a 1997 pontiac grand am and cannot find the low side outlet can any oone tell me where they hid it?
bellaprincesa1991 1 year ago
this wasnt very helpful ....maybe if you had gone to the steps and showed where things went and how they hooked up?? would have been much better.
sabrom 1 year ago
when i went to do mines the compressor started to turn but the gauge when to red do i keep going anyways or stop
ezkeyboardkid58 1 year ago
when i went to do mines the compressor started to turn but the gauge when to red do i keep going anyways or stop
ezkeyboardkid58 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
We have a 2003 Toyota Corolla. We did the instructions and found that the gauge was in the "red" it said "danger do not refrigerate".....what could the problem be? what should we do next?
deitonb1996 1 year ago
We have a 2003 Toyota Corolla. We did the instructions and found that the gauge was in the "red" it said "danger do not refrigerate".....what could the problem be? what should we do next?
deitonb1996 1 year ago
Did you raise the psi from 27 psi initial --recalibrated to 40 psi--- then add/charge to 50 psi. So you always get 2 readings before adding new R134a refrigerant.
jifors 1 year ago
I making this comment ONCE and ONLY ONCE. To all of you armchair mechanics that have no understanding of pressurized systems let me explain something to you. You can be low on R134a and still not have moisture and oxygen in the system. As long as the system remains pressurized at a level greater than the ambient air, then NO MOISTURE WILL GET IN. If the system is absolutely dry, then yes, have it properly vacuummed, filled and oiled. If all you are doing is adding .....
TheyMightBeRacing 1 year ago 10
some extra refridgerant then you will not be adding moisture unless it's in the can. The cans also have oil in them, so you're adding oil to the system as well. I've been doing this to cars with no ill effect for 20 years. A good mechanic knows not only how to bolt/unbolt things, but also how they work. And in this case, it's understanding how pressurized system work.
TheyMightBeRacing 1 year ago
I was just wondering, I have a 97 honda civic and the a/c just want as cool as it used to be. So I recharged it using the R134 synthetic booster can. I followed the instructions to the letter, however I feel like there has been no change in the A/C temp. Does it take a while to "take effect"? Did I do something wrong? Any help would be great. Thanks.
82drumhead 1 year ago
@82drumhead You should be able to detect the results immediately. Keep in mind, however, that wehn recirculating interior air it will only pump out air that's about 30 degrees cooler at Max AC. If your system was down too far the compressor will shut itself off, and you aren't actually adding any new R134a. If that's the case, then you should get it vacuumed and charged at a shop that knows how to trigger the compressor to run.
TheyMightBeRacing 1 year ago
@TheyMightBeRacing Alrighty. I appreciate the response. Thank you, sir.
82drumhead 1 year ago
@TheyMightBeRacing Where do you find what the proper pressure should be for a particular car? Or is it the ambient related psi chart quest has in their website?
jifors 1 year ago
@jifors I try to always use the auto manufacturer's recommendations first. They're often in the manual for the car or on a sticker under the hood. For comparative purposes (because it's always hot in Arizona) I then refer to the can. Nowadays, though, I have an air conditioned garage, so I can set the temp where I want it. :)
TheyMightBeRacing 1 year ago
@TheyMightBeRacing Thanks. How about the 2 readings you get before you actually start charging the system to get 50 psi (I think you said.) Is this the proper procedure--getting the 2 readings first? I live in vegas and have similar weather- high 90s today. Lastly, how often do you perform this charging?
jifors 1 year ago
@TheyMightBeRacing Thanks. How about the 2 readings you get before you actually start charging the system to get 50 psi (I think you said.) Is this the proper procedure--getting the 2 readings first? I live in vegas and have similar weather- high 90s today. Lastly, how often do you perform this charging?
jifors 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@TheyMightBeRacing Thanks. How about the 2 readings you get before you actually start charging the system to get 50 psi (I think you said.) Is this the proper procedure--getting the 2 readings first? I live in vegas and have similar weather- high 90s today. Lastly, how often do you perform this charging?
jifors 1 year ago
@TheyMightBeRacing umad?
shoopwhoopX 10 months ago
@TheyMightBeRacing Also explain to these folks that dont know about TXV and FOT systems that you do not flip the can upside down on a TXV system, on a FOT system this is ok. The TXV system does not like liquid and you can damage the compressor. You only charge a TXV system with vapor.
cordy302 10 months ago
Very bad way to service ur ac ... Take your vehicle to a shop where they can lube the ac compressor and vaccum the system and fully recharge the hole ac system. That would keep ur ac working great at all times
saldivarrr 1 year ago
thanks for the vid
mikeb1too 1 year ago
I have a small crack in my condesor and just bought a sealant and refrigerant. Should I put the sealant in first or vice versa.
DrewF1017 1 year ago
@DrewF1017 - I would recommend not trying any aftermarket sealers. They generally just don't work, and are just as likely to goober up the rest of your system, causing more items to break. I'd have the condensor professionally replaced.
TheyMightBeRacing 1 year ago
@TheyMightBeRacing That's not what I was wanting to hear but it definately makes sense. To get the condensor replaced would cost ~$400 :( Thanks for the reply!
DrewF1017 1 year ago
Awesome awesome awesome video! Very useful!
Navyball 1 year ago
what is about the vacumm?? ha the moisture in the sistem if you dont what you say delete the video!
expplain good about how is work the a/c sistem,tell me something? how is work the expansion valve,the orfice tube?
if you add freon and dont do it vacumm where is going the air inside the sistem,may be you will restrict to put comment but i dont care, good luck with your video
ONLYUSA1 1 year ago
what is about the vacumm?? ha the moisture in the sistem if you dont what you say delete the video!
expplain good about how is work the a/c sistem,tell me something? how is work the expansion valve,the orfice tube?
if you add freon and dont do it vacumm where is going the air inside the sistem,may be you will restrict to put comment but i dont care, good luck with your video
ONLYUSA1 1 year ago
@ONLYUSA1 WTF are you yappin about? Please do everyone a favor and do not reply to anything if you cannot carry on a conversation or if you can not spell, dude your grammer is sooooo poor you make my daughter sound like Einstein and she's in kindergarden.
Good video by the way!
69MrAssman 1 year ago
What is a CFC free liquid air conditioning? because my 97 monte carlo uses this kind of system. is there anything differnt?
frdgrnn 1 year ago
Do i have to flush anything??
frdgrnn 1 year ago
thanks for the instructions... used successfully on a jeep wrangler 2001.
neoginn 2 years ago
arizona isnt as hot as you baby
katie1987xxx 2 years ago
I agree, that's why I married him. ;)
xvioletvixenx 2 years ago
@xvioletvixenx
So you drive your car by feeling huh ?
michaelovitch 1 year ago
where can i get a adaptor with pressure gauge on it? help
muajkab 2 years ago
agreed.
The A/C is sealed system, if its low on refridgerant then don't add some. You need to have the correct oil and oz of refridgerant.
If you have an older car and don't really care about the lifespan of the compressor then go ahead. But if you want it to work for years you need to find the leak first before you let anything else into the system itself.
KawaTriple250 2 years ago
if the system has no r134, and the car needs to be running at max a/c in order to recharge r134, how do you close the low/high press. switches to start the compressor?
ab9957 2 years ago
They are open at that point. Once you open the bottle or a can the pressure in the can will force its way into the lines of the car.
AC clutch turns on and continues to draw from the can. The car might not do anything for a minute or two but once the pressure is high enough in the lines the low pressure switch will close and the clutch will turn on....
KawaTriple250 2 years ago 2
Very poor instruction, didn't show how or where to hook up hose or what the correct pressure was for a fully charged system...
hiwaycruzr 2 years ago
Well he did provide correct instructions...I wouldn't bother providing information on the location of the valve and pressure as well due to that every car has it's own specifications.
LethalBoxM 2 years ago 5
That mofo has a Australia T-shirt on....Respect!
jammerlammy2k 2 years ago
i knew the mechanics were crooks...u saved me $148. i didnt know that there were kits available for this. ur tha man lol
molafaka808 3 years ago
thanks , ur vid was the only vid with a manifold gauge i recognize. it's not as good as the dualtech one, but at least it's very reliable and portable too.
nanawashere 3 years ago
wow I live in arizona too phoenix to be precise, and Im surprised that this truck would have ac problems (its too new) The bad thing about living in the desert is that rubber dry rots thats what happend on my 1992 crown vic , the ac hoses dry rotted, but I junked the car due to its age
1995bisquick 3 years ago
Yeah, I've found that there's something secific about the way that ford does their AC systems... They seem to need recharginf / have issues far more frequently than most other cars. The wife's corolla, byt comparison, hasn't lost any charge over the years.
TheyMightBeRacing 3 years ago
agree on the GM A/C systems - Ive had Merc/Toyotas/Lexus/Nissans for past 12 years and only had (2) A/C repairs - changing valve needle on Lowside port of wife's Lexus and adding R134 to the Benz - 2 out of 7 and only VERY minor repairs - I now have a 99 Ram 1500 and Ive been fight'g w/it all summer (ugh!) - works great sometimes, other times no - but Im getting a manifold set (reluctantly) to fine tune it -tired of fighting - gotta have A/C - too humid down south! decent post Mike - thx.
capmookie 2 years ago
@TheyMightBeRacing
How old is your wife's Corolla? Mine is 1994 and it is not cooling as it should.
aakozanoglu 1 year ago
great tutorial!
badfastbusa 3 years ago