Added: 3 years ago
From: PainlessHHO
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  • You said you have a +NNNNN- plate set up, right? Well, although each neutral plate is well, neutral, they must have some sort of charge when current is being conducted, right? Is H2 or O2 gas coming off each neutral plate? Doesn't each plate need to be either + or - to determine which gas each produces? Each plate can't be both, right?

  • Do you get allot of current leakage on this design. How much HHO does it put out?

    What is the MMW for t.his design.

  • Its not plastic tape, its teflon

  • I am wanting to attempt to make my bedroom/computer room as energy sufficient as possible, i.e, carbon neutral, Is there anywhere I can get plans to be able to build one of theses systems which will be connected to a small wind turbine for the initial imput power? and, a reliable conversion unit from HHO to electricity.

  • So, the wife asked you to wash some dishes, eh?

  • what did you use to make your cut on the stainless steel

  • Did you use a tap for the barbed hose end? I'm wondering how to do that part next.

  • Wow.Its not grate.I see many video on youtube.But the best is the farkashho

  • Are you ok?

    This is not good!You start now or what?

    I see many video here.The best is the

    farkashho.

  • Hi.This is 304 plate?Its not to good.If uesed 3-5 days and gone.

    No information?Isee now the farkashho video and I like.Full information, nice jobs,and 32 plate 4 amper!Wow.

  • I would like to know how that Lowe's rubber sheet gasket material held out under heat when the unit got hot. Did it leak? And if so, did tightening the bolts help out any and did it leak after that?

    Any commits on the fiber & rubber gasket made by felpro?

  • Two questions: how many liters per minute do you produce on average with this dry cell hooked up to your 12 volt battery and how many liters per minute would be necessary to power a car exclusively with HHO?

  • to power your car exclusively? fuck loads man, youd be lucky to achieve 10% savings

  • uhuh cheak my profile W W W. Gr(*#$) .COM

  • whats the difference between a hho dry cell and a normal hho cell that most people rum off 12v batteries

  • Both types of cell are designed to run from automotive voltages (most of the time), a dry cell is simply a more efficient version of a wet or open bath design cell. It is much less prone to current loss through leakage around the plates.

  • @gr8daym8 The dry cell has Extracts the electrolyte from a reservoir, and passes through the plates. A wet cell submerges the plates in electrolyte.

  • I have a question: I would like to know do you have a vid of it installed? also what is the config on the + and - on your plates. I'm still using my 13 plate and it works real nice but would like to upgrade to a dry cell. Thanks RB

  • Check out my later videos, they show the cell running on my truck in several plate configurations.

    I'm using 5 neutrals, so, +NNNNN-.

  • How did you seal your last plate up?, the inside of the plate side, I've tried a few things but mine always leaks at the last plate

  • I used two layers of a thicker rubber gasket cut from plumbers pack, you can get this at Lowes.

  • @PainlessHHO

    5 N plate is not works.Because not pair!

    See the best video and information here.farkas hho

    I think only

  • corrosion city...

  • You may like to know our best seperator so far weve found was by using miniture wire down two sides thus allowing the bubbles to rise upwards as there is a heat factor becuase the bottom and the top is open the water can circulate freely

    keith sinclair

  • Hay this is great! The first thing I thought of when I seen this video was EletrikRide and his Smack Booster! You think you can make it like his cell? You could call it the "Dry Smack" That would be cool I think. Great job! thanks john...

  • Thanks for sharing !!!

  • I bought a F-16 Pulse King on ebay and my HHO cell went off the charts.

  • PWM's definitely make a difference when you use them with a full strength mixture of electrolyte (128% KOH by volume or 20% NaOH by volume). My cells MMW jumps from 5.4 to 6.4 with this setup.

  • Do you have construction plans? Parts List?

    thanx.

  • I don't have anything written down, but you can get everything from Lowes. The switch plate covers are in the electrical isle, the hoses and barbs are in the plumbing isle and the end plates are best made from a kitchen cutting board, you can buy one that is about 3/4" thick from Walmart for about $10.

  • Hey, another Q for ya. I built my cell and everything, it generates a little, but I run into a problem. I'm using 1/4"OD hoses (maybe they're too small?) and the generator isn't sucking an water back in it from the reservoir. Instead, it pushes water out through the output hose but doesn't bring any in through the input hose. I have it all hooked up right, so any ideas?

  • I usually find that this is caused by there not being a straight run from the reservoir to the cell and back to the reservoir again.

    Make sure your reservoir's bottom is higher than the top of the cell. Your hose runs to the cell and back from the cell need to be as straight as you can make them, without any dips or loops.

    Good luck!

  • Painless have you done any type of L/min test on the lowes plate dry cell? I have a smack cell now but I have been toying with the idea of the dry cell and I think this might be a good shot. Thanks...

  • My most recent cell was a 26 plate version, built into two side-by-side stacks. I used 5 neutrals in each set (four sets in total, two a side). Running this cell from a PWM I achieved 2.33 LPM at 6.4 MMW.

    Without a PWM, the cell tends to run at about 5.4 MMW.

    Bare in mind that the Lowes plates become increasingly more difficult to prevent shorts the more plates you use. 13 plates seems to be the limit to stick to (hence I used two stacks).

  • Howdy! I tried this with thwe PVC shower liner you said, but it's a VERY close fit between each plate. I've made plenty of wet cells, but I would say the gap is around 1mm if that. What did I do wrong??

    Also, how did you cut the Lowes plates for those spade connector tabs? I really like that idea!! Thanks a ton, HHO rocks bro!

  • It is a very close fit, the angled edges of the switchplate covers mean you need to be very careful to avoid shorts.

    I cut the tabs for the spade connectors with a dremal.

  • you can also cut your gaskets with tabs on the outer edges, so as to keep the plate edges from touching one another.

  • I tried this with the shower pan liner and found that it doesn't bend enough to stay in flat contact with the plates over the angled corners, it leaked like crazy and no amount of tightening could stop it.

  • Where do you get the plexiglass at?

  • The plexiglass comes from Lowes, they have it in the window section.

    I recommend going for the thickest you can find.

  • Just wondering about the progress. Mine still leaks , even using the shower liner.I have tried everything I can think of. sed 4 bolts, then 8 bolts.Even tried taping around the edges, all to no avail.

    Good luck with yours.

  • I tried building the dry cell I used the plummers pack, and also the skower pan liner. I never got any production. Also can't get propper seal. Any Ideas?

  • To start with, for a seal, you must use the switch plate covers from Lowes, the ones from Home Depot will not seal due to their shape. Also, make sure you have enough bolts around the cell and close enough to apply pressure without just bending the end plates. Also, make sure you used some good sized washers on either side of the bolts, like I did in the video, this will help to spread the compression and provide a better seal without stressing the end plates.

  • As concerns production, you will need a lot of electrolyte with the plumbers pack, I would forget it and stick with the shower pan liner at 0.040" thickness. Make sure you don't have too many cells for your volts, for example, if you are running +NNNNN- (6 cells) you will need at least 9v for production, preferably 13-14v.

  • the bottle will not work with hho production the red cap leaks massively..

  • I gave up on the bottle a fair while ago and am now using a 3" wide and 1 foot tall PVC pipe. My only regret is it doesn't hold much.

  • nip the corners with tin snips and they will flatten right out.

  • I tried hammering the plates flat too, but couldn't get them perfectly flat. What method did you use?

  • This is really a great idea... I am doing the exact same thing, except I actually hammered the plates flat before I put it together... same concept.

  • I tried hammering the plates flat too, but couldn't get them perfectly flat. What method did you use?

  • Actually, I just placed them on a smooth concrete surface, took a 16 oz hammer to them... gently I might add. They had some imperfections, but not really a lot of warping. The sanding and cross-hatching actually took care of that. Hopefully i'll post a video soon of my setup.

  • Did something like this but the plates leak like crazy.

  • I had some leakage issues in the design stage, but the key here is making sure that your gaskets remain within the flat area of the plates and that you have enough bolts for good all round compression on the cell. I'm currently running 25 lowes switch plates with no leaks.

  • Very Very good job You are good WOW love the idea Cheers

  • You're welcome! Please share your results if you build one.

  • very nice

    :)

    I am sticking with the smack booster design & will do mileage tests soon. I really look forward to watching your build & testing of this cell.

    Keep up the good work.

    Steve

    p.s. oh btw, are you going to do displacement and mmw tests too?

  • I performed some today, I'll be posting a video tomorrow or wednesday.

  • You can seal the top of the radiator over flow container with a 2" neoprene test cap. You will find them with the ABS drainpipe. They have a stainless steel clamp to make it tight. Of course you will have to move your outlet to the side of the tank.

  • Thanks for the suggestion, I actually decided to stop beating around the bush and bought some 3" PVC pipe, end cap and inspection cap and built myself a whole new electrolyte tank from it. Got tired of the leaks.

  • very nice how-to "just build it" video :D

    I would skip the bubbler for a car application, u get extra milage increase by the microscopic water mist that comes out with the gas. For hho-minitorch, go with bubbler and flachback.

  • very nice

  • Yeah an one more note for you, you will have to put more bolts than 4 ,with the 1/4 acrylic cause it bends real easy ..Been there done that just wanted to let ya know ..

  • Thanks for the pointers, I did have a hard time getting the right pressure on my four bolts to compress enough to stop leaks but not too much as the acrylic bent, just like you said!

    I'm thinking about following your advice and maybe putting four more bolts in, although, I have it leak proof with four at the moment. Am concerned what will happen as vibration loosens the bolts.

  • Great video man , I did the switch plate cover drycell my self about 2 moths ago it did alright,but I have finally moved away from the switch plate covers..I just built a real drycell, but I have a almost drycell thats 29 switch plates, works alright..Good work

  • bread cutting boards might work

  • That's not a bad idea, I'm thinking you mean the plastic kind?

  • looks well thought of.

    I was going to use the same material for gasket but I noticed it was kind of spongy. I ended up buying shower water barrier, its like $6 for a linear yard or foot, cant remember.

    keep us posted of your results. dont buy lexan 1/4" thick it will crack very fast if the cell runs hot. good luck.

  • I've heard of several people using the shower mats. $6 for a yard isn't bad, I'm getting two gaskets from one piece of the pack, which costs just over a dollar a piece. Gets pretty expensive!

  • that is the exact reason I went with the shower barrier material. its like 1.5mm thick. I'm not sure if there is another one thicker than that. might be

    good luck

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