Added: 3 years ago
From: AnimalMotha
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  • This must be Arnold from austria, you know The Governator

  • I didnt know James Earl Jones was into knives

  • were is that accent from?

  • What was that other machete? It looks like you filed off the end of a latin machete. I wish I knew how to do that.

  • Just use wet sandpaper on a leveled surface, and use a lot of H2O ;)

  • Good video, thumbs up. I have practically no experience with convex edges, but I know from my axe alone that with good enough steel, the secondary (or third if you like compound) bevel can take tremendous abuse with a typical V grind. After hours of work then a few runs on the ceramic rods to bring that final secondary bevel back to shape and finally stropping and it is shaving hairs again. I am still curious about convex edges, I will try it sometime.

  • im confused why did you rotate the sand paper?

  • Having problems taking the paint off the panga

  • use an old leather belt, thats how i did mine 

  • now sing "Chocolate Rain".

  • I don't mean offence... But i think you're doing it wrong (lol don't worry i made the same mistake) the thing is, when you pull away from the edge what you're really doing is microscopically rolling the edge over to the other side which is fine if you also remove that rolled over edge by doing 1-2 strokes forward towards the edge so that the rolled over metal is removed thus leaving a sharp edge... I think if you give that a go you'll find substanically better results :)

  • dude im no expert with mechete but even i can see for the length of your mechete that your sharpening to much of it at time if i were you and you want to use that method wrap the sand/glass paper round the piece of 2x4

  • you have a nice voice

  • Just wondering, how do you know that it is time to move up a grid of sandpaper?

  • @russiawithlove101 Early on you can tell by looking to see if the edge is reflecting light. On coarser grits you typically use them to bring the edge up and use finer grits to finish it off. Really it can all be done on an extremely fine grit but it would take so long it wouldn't be time-effective.

  • I picked up an old cast iron 1x42 belt sander at a garage sale a few years ago for 40 bucks... The guy threw in about 25 belts .. about 10 brand new and several used ones... includeing a leather one for polishing compounds... I found that a well worn 320 grit belt works really good for converting a standard two angle V edge to convex.. . If you use new belts the cut is just too agressive and you have to work very fast...

  • A file is so much faster.......thanks for the video and take it easy.

  • @InitiateZ

    I'm too incompetent to put a convex grind on a blade with file.

  • @AnimalMotha You sound like a very intelligent fellow. I have been a machinist for 35 years so files are second nature to me. Plus, I am VERY lazy!! I have 5 cold steel machetes and really like them. Thanks again brother

  • @InitiateZ

    *g* Thank you

    But alas, sometimes lack of skill is worsened by lack of adequate tools, primarily a stable work bench and a solid vise. But seeing as don't have room in my apartment at the moment, those will have to wait.

  • omg where are you from? i love the way you talk! nice machete

  • @aRunMouth

    South-West of Germany.

  • Did anyone ever tell you that you have an awesome voice?

  • I cant find a mouse pad. Will an old 5mm camping pad work? The type you put below your sleeping bag?

  • @XCritonX

    Absolutely that will do. That technique is kinda about ingenuity, not adhering strictly to what I proclaim so boldly.

  • it is shiddy xD

    verdammter Deutsche lern mal richtig englisch

  • what grit sandpaper do you recommend if you are convexing a v-edge

  • @dave135

    Go as low as 80. Anything coarser just tears up really quick because the silicates are so large.

  • I make it sharp as hell with a whetstone and oil. Then i polish the edge on a leather polishing dish (Not sure about the English name there)

    The machete a great tool even up in Norway and i prefer it more than an axe. Most fun is when people say that they can remove branches faster than me with a axe. They cut 1 branch a sec i cut all off in under one sec.

  • you sound german... AWESOME :D

  • ha dude u sound like yoda!

  • just checking, on a wetstone you should push the blade, not draw it back, so i presume its the opposite for creating a convex edge?

  • Well, In my experience the only difference is that when you push the blade, you can cut into your sharpening material. It's only an issue on soft waterstones or leather straps. Oh, and when your sandpaper is really wrinkly.

    I usually push AND pull a blade on the coarse waterstones and only draw on the finer ones.

  • What does the convex edge do?

  • It makes the blade easier to sharpen once you have established it. You don't have to as careful about keeping the angle the same and in the case of machetes, its easier to do simply because sandpaper is usually a lot bigger than a benchstone and a machete can be quite big.

  • I do something similar but have found an easier method for machettes and other large blade. Istead of the paper mounted on the table, wrap it around a paint stir stick then use that like a file. The stick has enough flex to convex and its easier to manage for longer blades. Give it a try sometime.

  • Well, I tried something like that with my Spyderco Sharpmaker and some 80-grit paper to change the edge of a knife and all it really did was shave the particles off the paper..

    Maybe German sandpaper is different to where you are from?

  • Sandpaper? What grit? Very nice blade.

  • I use a lot of grits..

    To establish the basic convex form I start at 80, then I go 180, then 400. 600 and then 1000.

  • Comment removed

  • I use a 1in x4in block of wood with leather or felt under the sandpaper, I either do the same as you are or I will sometimes clamp the blade to a tables edge and use the block on the blade. very good vid, this the way I sharpen all my blades.

  • Yeah, thats one thing I want to do as well. Especially with convex blades like the kukri, you always end up bumping the table with the handle.

  • Wow exactly what I was looking for nice tutorial

    Thanks man I really appreciate the video..

    Now I can get to sharpening..

    5 Stars!

  • Has that Light Machete that you've shown in the video been discontinued?

  • Yes, it has been. Don't know why. It was a great little tool.

  • Man, they are discontinuing all the good stuff. Next up is the Bowie, Spearpoint, and Seax machetes.

  • luv it dude .. =) I demand more vidz!

  • hahaha damn i could hear in the first 5 secounds that u are german! :D

    by the way...gutes Video ;-)

  • Yeah well.. *g*

    Thanks!

  • is that just sand paper for wood but wet with water or is it special sand paper for sharpening knives?

  • its a type of waterproof sandpaper. google wet sandpaper

  • Its regular sandpaper, probably.

  • its regular sand paper ...

  • wow man , i watched this video and used this way of sharpening on my cold steel 18" Barong machete and it is great, thanks for posting this vid this made my machete much better then that crap v edge it came with..

  • smart

  • i have a gator machete and that thing is wicked i still have to sharpen it though i dident no that

  • about the convex grind...does it last longer?

  • A convex grind is better for splitting, and is usually sharper, depending on the blade.

    For instance, Japanese swords, which are made to be razor sharp, have convex grinds. A secondary bevel is more durable than a convex grind, but because it doesn't split as well, more stress is put onto the blade when cutting, whereas a convex edge just kinda pushes everything out of the way.

  • strange...I always taught katanas were flat grind...oh well I am a noob. I will try to convex grind my khukri...Will be a tough but I'll give it a try. Thanks mate!

    ps what is the sharpest grind? chisel?

  • Sharpest grind?

    Well... I'd definitely put my money on the chisel grind, yes. They are VERY sharp.

    Japanese sushi knives use the chisel grind, and they just make for some of the finest edges I've ever seen.

    I can't see a useful purpose on them for E.D.C knives or machetes, though, the edges would be much too delicate. Stick with the convex, mate. ;)

  • I'll b damned if I don't! I found my grandparents knife, really long one with a convex grind, I hand-sanded it and will sharpen it a bit

  • whats the difference in sharpness with the convex grind?

  • Look for my video called "Machete Test Cutting".

    That is a convex grind. So it can be made razor-sharp, even if sharpness is not that grinds primary function, which is more along the lines of durability and not-getting-your-blade-stuck.

  • I get on better with simply using a wet stone and manually bevelling the edge, rather than relying on the give of the sandpaper to smoove the v to a convex edge. Far more controlled, however, somewhat costly.

  • I own japanese waterstones in 400/1000 and 1000/6000 but the life of me, I can't even thin about doing a convex grind on longer blade such as a machete on those.

  • I do the same thing. It helps if you put some mineral oil on the sandpaper.

  • I guess it could facilitate removing what in German is called "Schleifschlamm" when talking about Japanese waterstones. It means the removed particles of the stone and the blade.

  • do u know of him btw? search him here on youtube, he is the funniest guy around

  • what is your accent?

  • That would be German. It's usually not as noticeable, but talking in front of a camera is weird the first few times.

  • oh , its a cool accent. is Dane Cook German?

  • Ah, his Wiki-page says he's from the good ol' US of A.

  • ooh :p well he has a funny sounding voice.

  • Thanks for the demonstration. I just bought one for the Greenbriar around here, and I am seeking the quickest or most efficient method to put the proper edge on it. I have the patience to sharpen all my pen and smaller sheath knives but the length of the new Machete is a bit overwelming. I think with your method it might take me a month of Sundays. But you are definately right about not exposing the steel to excessive heat.

  • Thanks for your comment!

    It just might be faster than you expect. Just stay long enough on the roughest grit, it there you will have to do the most work. This is the part were the edge actually is reformed, every step up from the roughest will serve primarily to hone the edge and polish the area around it.

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