why was the building wrap not taped to the top flange before you moved on to doing the siding? As a draft barrier the header area is most critical because commonly, it is the area with the least wall cavity insulation. Also the sill apron area is going to be drafty for two reasons. 1) you shimmed the legs up widening the uninsulated gap. 2) you mention not insulating the space between the inside sill pan lip to the exterior face. why?
ok there is a million and a half ways to instal a wndow i have seen like 10 diffrent ways in person they all work its just how u do stuff and every one thinks there way is right
Vycor (flashing) product instructs that it should be applied on the substrate under the Tyvek, not over it. I was told yesterday at a building supply store that applying Vycor on Tyvek can result in moisture problems.
Nice video and thanks for posting. When you demonstrate something, do it nice and slow because not everyone does it for a living. I've worked with so many window people and here's the problem. They are required to put in or replace windows so quickly that they take shortcuts or totally misses a step and bammm...another destroyed window due to lack of concentration in the processes; not to mention underpay installers who are required to break a neck from a fall etc. Nice job on the video.
How can I dissasemble a double pane window in order to dry out the space? there is moisture leaking into the area between the panes of all my windows, which fogs them up, which tells me that the rubber or whatever insulator is drying out and allowing moisture in. Can I gook some silicone in there, or what?I still have to dissasemble the frame which is like a Chinese box puzzle-
I assume that you mean that their normal speed would be slow when putting in windows other than doing a demo. I would like for this guy to do my windows. I want an knowledgeable, skilled, honest installer to work for me.
This video was great. I built a new addition and intalled 2 casement windows using this gentlemans advice and I was very pleased with my results. Even the window intaller on my street was impressed. I also used the membrane techniques on my door with side-lights.
Great video. Is there any way for a homewoner such as myself to check windows that were installed 8 years ago to ensure they were flashed properly? We keep smelling mold with no source and the windows are the only suspects. We also have a window installed in an unfinished attack and can see "daylight" around the corners of the window where it meets the framed opening.
Please notice that he's only placing shims under the corners. This is HUGE in Brick on the side of housing. They don't mention it as it's not a pertaining issue, but to make sure that any brisk or stone sill is about 1/4" away from the bottom of the window to prevent Humped Sills during the settling of the house.
Geek - Thank you! This is the most concise installation video. S. Texas is still short workers, even though we're on the border. Hurricane Dolly hit in July. Workers left for Houston (Ike) & Louisiana (Gustav). Local stores had all the products recommened, but no time to guide a novice. We still need to fix our homes. The video helped us to help ourselves.
As Kohta points out, you could in fact caulk the back of the flange, but is not required since there is a good seal on the exterior surface with self adhered membrane, and low expansion foam seal between the window and the frame. Care should be taken that the caulking is compatible with the building materials, and that the bottom flange of the window is not caulked. The Water Management Guide reads, "Sealant bead at jambs and head may be optional base on risk factors"
@BuildingGeek . I have read the manufacturer's installation instructions for all the major brands including Anderson, American craftsmen, pella, Marvin and they all state you must CAULK the rough opening before putting the window int place. If you don't do this you will void your warranty. Flashing tape will leak eventually you need a second layer of defense behind the flashing tape which is the caulking
Very interesting and useful. The voices in the background are annoying and distracting. They could have shut up while you were making your film. Thanks for making this.
your normally supposed to peal back the house wrap, then flash, and put the house wrap over the flashing.
Rlnthndr 1 week ago
why was the building wrap not taped to the top flange before you moved on to doing the siding? As a draft barrier the header area is most critical because commonly, it is the area with the least wall cavity insulation. Also the sill apron area is going to be drafty for two reasons. 1) you shimmed the legs up widening the uninsulated gap. 2) you mention not insulating the space between the inside sill pan lip to the exterior face. why?
AWSmith1955 3 months ago
yep
wrtrttyeuheu 3 months ago
what does it mean to flash a window
jpdroidjp 5 months ago
pretty informative but he talks like a gay california liberal and that annoys me
s37d 7 months ago
dude the last thing any window needs is blue skin to seal it\ the shit is a moisture trap just do a test weeks after job done looks good but no good
nissanhybrid 1 year ago
ok there is a million and a half ways to instal a wndow i have seen like 10 diffrent ways in person they all work its just how u do stuff and every one thinks there way is right
homesnakegabe 1 year ago
his glasses are very distracting... lol
fjzep 1 year ago
Vycor (flashing) product instructs that it should be applied on the substrate under the Tyvek, not over it. I was told yesterday at a building supply store that applying Vycor on Tyvek can result in moisture problems.
jtatgenhorst6 1 year ago
im the best there is at window installation guaranteed dont believe me try me
zizzybal 2 years ago
Nice video and thanks for posting. When you demonstrate something, do it nice and slow because not everyone does it for a living. I've worked with so many window people and here's the problem. They are required to put in or replace windows so quickly that they take shortcuts or totally misses a step and bammm...another destroyed window due to lack of concentration in the processes; not to mention underpay installers who are required to break a neck from a fall etc. Nice job on the video.
popcorn4two 2 years ago
I would tack that window tape or what he calls jam flashing with a tack hammer... once it heats up, that tape will fall right off
nipsta3 2 years ago
How can I dissasemble a double pane window in order to dry out the space? there is moisture leaking into the area between the panes of all my windows, which fogs them up, which tells me that the rubber or whatever insulator is drying out and allowing moisture in. Can I gook some silicone in there, or what?I still have to dissasemble the frame which is like a Chinese box puzzle-
WHAT A PANE
raiphdude7 2 years ago
these guys take too long!!!
michaelvargo80 2 years ago
I assume that you mean that their normal speed would be slow when putting in windows other than doing a demo. I would like for this guy to do my windows. I want an knowledgeable, skilled, honest installer to work for me.
oilhammer04 2 years ago
This video was great. I built a new addition and intalled 2 casement windows using this gentlemans advice and I was very pleased with my results. Even the window intaller on my street was impressed. I also used the membrane techniques on my door with side-lights.
mississauga0909 2 years ago
Great video. Is there any way for a homewoner such as myself to check windows that were installed 8 years ago to ensure they were flashed properly? We keep smelling mold with no source and the windows are the only suspects. We also have a window installed in an unfinished attack and can see "daylight" around the corners of the window where it meets the framed opening.
cu29640 2 years ago
i fit windows in the uk and i have never seen an opening like that
dragonfitter 3 years ago
Please notice that he's only placing shims under the corners. This is HUGE in Brick on the side of housing. They don't mention it as it's not a pertaining issue, but to make sure that any brisk or stone sill is about 1/4" away from the bottom of the window to prevent Humped Sills during the settling of the house.
JudoJasonTemple 3 years ago
Geek - Thank you! This is the most concise installation video. S. Texas is still short workers, even though we're on the border. Hurricane Dolly hit in July. Workers left for Houston (Ike) & Louisiana (Gustav). Local stores had all the products recommened, but no time to guide a novice. We still need to fix our homes. The video helped us to help ourselves.
Muchos Gracias!
Two Office Workers and One Furry Friend
SPISurfer 3 years ago
It does not appear the sill turns up the sides of the jamb. If the sill flashing does not turn up the sides of the jamb it will not work.
ereply 3 years ago
Why did you not caulk the back of the flange prior to setting the window?
doagoodjob 3 years ago
As Kohta points out, you could in fact caulk the back of the flange, but is not required since there is a good seal on the exterior surface with self adhered membrane, and low expansion foam seal between the window and the frame. Care should be taken that the caulking is compatible with the building materials, and that the bottom flange of the window is not caulked. The Water Management Guide reads, "Sealant bead at jambs and head may be optional base on risk factors"
BuildingGeek 3 years ago
I thought the AMMA 2400-02 5.5.4.5 required it. hmm Thing change so quickly how can anyone keep up? Thanks for your reply.
doagoodjob 3 years ago
@BuildingGeek @BuildingGeek actually manufacturers all say you HAVE to caulk the rough opening before putting the new window into place
matt357 4 months ago in playlist House - Window Installation
@BuildingGeek . I have read the manufacturer's installation instructions for all the major brands including Anderson, American craftsmen, pella, Marvin and they all state you must CAULK the rough opening before putting the window int place. If you don't do this you will void your warranty. Flashing tape will leak eventually you need a second layer of defense behind the flashing tape which is the caulking
matt357 4 months ago in playlist House - Window Installation
thankx for the info, it is always nice to actually see it done as opposed to reading it.
scudsters 4 years ago
Very interesting and useful. The voices in the background are annoying and distracting. They could have shut up while you were making your film. Thanks for making this.
fauxfax 4 years ago
Best window istallation video I have seen so far.
quaheedus 4 years ago
This window will never leak. It is to bad that most builders do not install this way.
A++++++++++++ for this video.
Clevelandmarko 4 years ago