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From: applianceoutlet
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  • so I get 124 on the first two and 250 in the sides. is that about right? my dryer runs but no heat ive checked the vent, the heating element, thermostat and i cant figure it out.

  • @majik365 I also only found two thermostats is there always a third?

  • Great video Thanks for taking the time. I loved the part at the begining... Too many people look to blame others; good on you for putting it so bluntly.

  • Thanks for this! Hope I find my problem soon.

  • You left out what to do with the two purple wires on the thermostat after the two red ones checked good.Take one of the purple wires off the connector,set your meter to 20k ohms,the reading should be around 7k...but I don't give a shit

  • Very nice video, pointed me precisely to where I needed to check on the thermostat just beyond the thermal fuse.

  • Thanks, If me a 24 year old blond girl can use common sense and follow him anyone can.... thanks for the video... now y doesn't it heat lol new element, thermostats are fine, ....

  • I have a Whirlpool Super Capacity Dryer. About a year and a half old. All of a sudden it shuts off completely. No heat, No power, nothing. Checked power to outlet, its working fine. Sent it to shop, they replaced the thermal fuse. Got it back,same day it shut off. Clothes are extremly hot. Which means dyer is over heating.Cleaned out all lint traps, no clogs. Thermal fuse still blows. Should I replace the thermostat?Could it possibly not be triggering off which is causing the dryer to overheat? 

  • You save my ass great video!! I save 150.00 form buy a used dryer right at Christmas,

    Thans you so much you video and 25.00 on ebay for a heater element save me from chasing the problem for 60.00 in parts buy learing how to test each part, You are the best!

  • FIRST OFF, THANKS FOR THE "CLEAR" SELF HELP VIDEO! SECOND, I LOVE THE; IF YOUR AFRAID, OR STUPID ENOUGH TO GET SHOCKED "I DONT GIVE A SHIT" ATTITUDE!

    ALSO TO THE MORON THAT SAID HE GOT SHOCKED AND ENDED UP IN THE HOSPITAL; I BET YOU'LL "LET GO A LITTLE QUICKER NEXT TIME" IDIOT!

  • my tester dosn't read ohms

  • My dryer (Kenmore) keeps blowing fuses in our fuse box every couple weeks. I just replaced a fuse again and it blew like 20 minutes later and the dryer was still running but no heat. Any idea whats wrong?

  • Your video helped me fix our dryer. Just wanted to say thanks. :)

  • I got shocked when I did that. I don't fucking care (fucking awesome).  XO

  • my high limit tco has went ot twice what cold it be?

  • what is the issue if the high limit keeps going out?

  • Got no response from the one at the top.. .. the lower thermostat moved to 0 but got no reading when i checked from it to the heater plug.. the heater terminals moved to 0.. the lower left thermostat moved to 0. was using the ohm x1k setting on meter. So if i replace the top one I'm good?

  • Awesome, found the issue... its the top thermostat. Thanks again!

  • Thank you. I am going to do the checks now :)

  • @applianceoutlet.......hey man....thanks for your help. did my checks, sourced the issue, fixed the problem.

    bad heating element.

  • when i turn on the dryer,the coil turns red, the gas flows and the flame starts burning, a moment later it shuts off. I can repeat the process and the same thing happens. What do you think it could be.

  • With the cycling thermostat, would checking the resistance across the two purple wires be able to show any failure in the component? If so, what resistance would I be looking for?

  • You could not have made the whole process any clearer. Mission accomplished. It also helped that my model was very similar to the one you were using.

    *****

  • LOVE the video! I have a whirlpool dryer just like the one in the vid. the heat stopped. Tested and found the top thermal fuse went out.Replaced the upper thermal fuse. Dryer worked perfectly for a few loads now the thermal fuse has blown again.

    I have ohms across the lower thermostat, the blower thermostat and the smaller blower fuse. IF I BYPASS the upper thermal fuse by conecting the wires together the dryer works perfectly.

    I can set it on low and watch the coils turn on anf off

    IDEAS?

  • I have a Whirlpool LER7646a Dryer. It was not heating but running. I replaced the Thermal Fuse, Heating Element and Cycling Thermostat, but still have no heat to the dryer??? What do you suggest?

  • He does not give a shit because if you are to ignorant to be safe around electricity stay away from it.. If you cant swim don't go out to 100 foot of water and jump in..

    You have to have power going to the unit to check and see if you have power lol..

  • i check all fuses they all give me diferent readings ohms..so what else should i check if they all give me continuity ,the ignitor i took it out and look wornt out and broke in half very easy you think i found the problem?

  • @cadaverock

    if the ignitor is broke you definitely have to replace it. There should be a little peep hole on the front panel of the dryer to check to make sure the ignitor is glowing orange when you start the dryer. Replace the ignitor, start the dryer and check that first. we can go from there.

  • @applianceoutlet thanks actually dont know how it hapen but after double checking it turns out it was a fuse the one that has some type of fluid ,,so thanks it was the fuse thanks,

  • with the dryer running i touched the wires together at the safety thermostat and the heat element started working i know this is not how to test it but had no meter at the time. does this mean the safety thermostat has been tripped or does this just mean iam stupid thanks

  • @chrispricesr , yuuuuuup, replace the safety thermostat. When you do that, run the dryer and ensure that the heater cycles on and off. Run it with the back cover off so you can see the heater. It should not stay on 100% of the time. If it stays on 100% you have another bad thermostat, that's not kicking off. The dryer is running too hot and that is why the safety kicked off.

    Let me know how you make out.

  • i got shock and in the hospital my attorney will contact you soon..mr i dont give a shit!

  • @cadaverock

    lol, ask the attorney for some common sense while you're there.

  • @applianceoutlet good video jaa

  • @cadaverock

    To bad you didnt die loser.

  • great job. this vid was a lot of help

  • my dryer heats and drys clothes but once it runs for awhile it shuts off. It has to

    "cool" off, then will run again.

  • @Bnichole33 I would say your motor is shot. After it runs for a couple minutes, open the door then try to start it up.  More than likely it will not. Sure sign of a bad motor. For as many times as I've heard this complaint, its been the motor every time. You are right though, once it cools off, it will start again.

  • Thank you!

  • "I got shocked, I don't give a shit" lol

  • Excellent Video. Easy to follow. I did get buzzed, when I checked the first thermostat (forgot to unplug dryer), but that was my fault. Thanks for your time.

  • hey great video it was my themostats thanks ooooooooooooo i love the i dont give a shit great shit

  • Thanks for the video. You helped me troubleshoot (I hope) my dryer problem. Off to the parts store tomorrow to pick up a Thermal Cutoff and a Hi Limit thermostat.

    Thanks again! Oh, and I didn't electrocute myself either! LOL

  • I've replaced the top stat twice. The dryer worked briefly, but then stopped heating again, and the stat went bad again. Any suggestions?

  • Yes, I checked the element voltage, read 240ish, plug and breaker were good also. My I've vacuumed everything out, also the exhaust vent. It's hotter now, maybe that's the max it goes. The element is red hot. Last dryer I had just worked alot better, and it was 15 years older. But the drum motor went out on it. Thanks for the help

  • Hey, Great Vid! I have a Whirlpool Dryer that will get warm but not hot, takes 2-3 cycles to dry clothes. I have tested the element (9.8ohm) and all 3 thermostats I tested get 0.7ohm. I done it exactly like your video with undoing a wire on each one to test, and tested the element against the case to check for open circuit. I just can't figure it out. My thermal fuse seems good. I checked it also, got 0.8ohm on it. You mentioned this basically leaves the timing. It goes through on every cycle.

  • @locomojo04  When the dryer is running, you are going to have to check if the heating element is getting 240 volts AC. If its getting 240 volts when the heater is on, check your vents. It could be something as simple as an air flow issue. This will cause the symptoms you are describing. Let me know how you make out.

  • Thanks.

    You just happen to have made a video using the same model of dryer as I have.

    This couldn't have been more helpful.

    Great job.

  • Thank you very much.

  • I am not clear when you told to check the ohm of thermostat switch (the one has four legs) at the exhaust outlet near the lint. You told to check the ohm of two legs that red wires connect. What about the other two small legs that purple wires connect? Do we need to check the ohm on both legs? If yes, we must have the continuity on both legs too when we measure the ohm. I got the reading around 7 ohms when I check those two legs. YOur video is very helpful for the novice like me.

  • AC>CURRENT...NOT DC..YOU SAID DC

  • @thatDUDEjay1 What in the beginning? Check you hearing. Thanks for watching.

  • @thatDUDEjay1 .....Ok sorry now that i have put in head phones you clearly say AC..my mistake

  • Comment removed

  • We have a Kenmore dryer that recently stopped heating. We checked all of these and everything checked out. Then you mentioned at the end of the video about the timer also being a factor in heating it. We just noticed that the dryer runs and runs and runs but doesn't heat and the dial doesn't turn. Does this mean the timer is bad and needs to be replaced? Is there a way to test the timer? We figured we could deal with no timer...but apparently, we can't! Help! :)

  • "Now before you say anything like 'uhhh...that's not very...' Whatever, I don't wanna hear it."

  • @applianceoutlet have a Kenmore Elite. None of the auto cycles work I have use the manual cycles to get the dryer to complete a cycle. When I use the auto cycles the dryer shuts off after a few minutes. any clue on what would cause this problem.

  • i have a wirpoool gold series and you have to do this thru the front,the back of mine dosent come off,so dont go breaking the spot welds on that back panel there is a video on here that shows you how to remove the drum,which fck that,if ya use a small wrench and patience,i think they made it like that so ya hafta call in a professinonal which hey when ya gatta do so do if your not sure,but you people that make these video are fckin great thatnks for sharing your knowledge

  • :54 HAHAHAHA Unplug the fridge first!

  • Great vid. problem found quick!!

  • You rock! For one I like the idea that if people don't understand that you could get shocked doing this.....then they should not play with shit. And second, you helped me fix my machine......

  • Thats correct. Is it possible that when I remove it, its bypassing the safety therostat since there's no longer a contact with the venting

  • My Whirpool is exactly like the one in your video. Problem is no heat. Everything checks out and works as far as the thermal fuse and themostats. I get similar readings you got. I checked the heater coils and there is not break in it. I found that when I leave all conections on and remove the plate that holds the coil to the rest of the coil housing, the coils heat right up, but when I put it back I get no heat. Any ideas. You mentioned the timer. I haven't checked that yet.

  • @FerraroJohn

    Are you talking about when you take the heater assembly off the venting it works, then when you re-install it the heater doesn't work?

    Thanks

  • @applianceoutlet Yes. It's been a while since my last comment. Believe it or not after uninstalling and installing the heater vent a couple of times, it worked for a couple of weeks, but now its doing it again. I checked all the same things and they're fine. Of course when I remove the heater vent with the wires still conected, the element heats right up. Help!!!!!

  • No. I've replaced the thermal fuse part number 3977393. The dryer heats for a couple of days, then stops heating. It still spins, but does not heat. I check the thermal fuse, and it is bad again.

  • No heat. . Good current of air was blowing out of machine. Thermal fuse open, and thermostat closed. Ordered kit and replaced both thermostat on heater block and thermal fuse. Dryer worked for 1 week - then fuse blew again. Thermostat reads 1 ohm when cold. Can it be that the thermostat is not in good thermal contact and so doesn't regulate temperature properly (i.e. doesn't open when hot)? The replacement thermostat was not identical to original and didn't go flush against heater block cover.

  • @fradenlab

    usually when the thermal fuse blows, it has to do with a venting issue. Remove the duct that the lint filter slides into and clean it out. You will need to remove the back cover of the machine, and you will need to remove the two phillips head screws on the top of the dryer under the lint filter door cover flap thing.

  • Great video!!! I knew this was the one for me when you said if you get shocked "I don't give a shit. I went through the whole video and all my thermostats everything was good. Turns out it was my timer.

  • great video...i did those very checks and two of my thermostats were shot. i appreciate the no-nonsense approach and the bit about the icemaker was hilarious.!!

  • congratulations for having the most useful repair video on the internet for cutoff switches and thermostats, all of the big name repair videos that ive seen are garbage

  • @3874916402

    Thanks!

  • @applianceoutlet Hello, I just replaced my thermostats (all three, just in case) yesterday and I found out thismorning the heat stopped, same thermostat blew again. this is telling me that there is something causing it to blow. I cleaned the ducting, the blower motor, (everything looks brand new) all of the wires are clean, the heater is not shorted and looks brand new, the belt is new, motor strong, fuse is perfectly fine. you said that the timer could be at fault? how would I test this?thanks!

  • @3874916402

    I'll have to look into that one. Nothing comes to mind other than the thermostat. Is it the thermostat with the four wires going to it?

  • @appliance: the one that keeps going is the one at the top of the heater box, the one with four wires is at the lower left hand corner, its still ok.

    Also: the orange wire coming down from the timer, I found that and it is spliced to the lower thermostat (on the heater box, lower right hand corner) and the heater at the same time (not wired in series) is this normal or do you think the last guy to work on it did that?

    any insights are greatly appreciated, thank you!

  • Awesome video! You saved me $160 bucks! Diggin' on that Marine Corps shirt too. Must be the reason for the "no-nonsense" approach. You just helped another Devil Dog...Semper Fi!

  • @UTuberican

    Semper Fi!

  • thanks for the vidieo. have one question though.when replacing the botton right hand thermostat i was wondering what i do with the small orange wire. thermostat i got in kit had a red jumper wire but no place for orange wire.

  • Thank you - enjoyed the video. I do have a quesiton on the readings. When i set my oHM meter to 1rx, the reading is about 3 - if i set the ohm meter to 10x, it is 0. What is the correct setting to use? Also, what reading does an "open" circuit create - you mentioned open but not sure what that shows on the meter.

  • Thanks for posting this video.Even though I replaced the thermostat when not needed I never would have thought to check the breaker,it was half tripped.Working like new again,well newer not thats its cleaned as well.THANK YOU!!!

  • loved the video but I did have the same question as below. My second thermostat seems to be located towards the front of the dryer with no easy access that I can see. It has no apparent model number expect for saying 70 series. Do you have another video for that? Thanks

  • loved the video but I did have the same question as below. My second thermostat seems to be located towards the front of the dryer with no easy access that I can see. Do you have another video for that? Thanks

  • WHAT Model is this ? I HAVE A 417 Series, Where are the things you checked, I saw a schematic of the thermostor near the motor AT THE FRONT OF MY MACHINE. How do I get to it ??????

  • Comment removed

  • My dryer over heated to the point of allmost burning my clothes last night.Could it be a sensor or the heat limiter thermostat?Wow it baked my clothes i knew soon as i open the door something wasn't right it was like an oven too hot.Thanks Oh its an electric dryer not gas..

  • u got my dryer working...it was the breaker..i never pluged it in to test the cord ...that was it..thanks alot i wont have to sleep on the couch to night ..i just have alot of laundry to do and make her happier ..again thanks ..and like donvancleve said no BS great video

  • This is an informative video with no BS. Thanks, I learned a lot.

  • Comment removed

  • You should be a comedian because your very funny.

  • This was a fantastic video. It was kept simple but with great effectiveness. Great job.

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