I built this on a breadboard and and moving to a PDB soon. I drew up a schematic in Eagle that you can download from edcarlson{dot}com/files/led_strobe.sch. I felt that the flash rate was too high with a 1uF cap, so I swapped it out for a 3.3uF which gives a slightly slower flash rate.
@ananababa123 if your using darlington pairs Mosfets, or other large transistors that are TO-220 packaged, the metal part where heatsinks are screwed to might be shorted to each other [I.E using the same heatsink] For mine I use TIP122s, the heatsink part is the collector that connects to the LEDs, using the same heatsink will result in both flashing at the same rate. Hope this helps :)
@ STFUProductions: well, the circuit looks good: exactly the same how I built it 5 years ago.
The only thing I miss in the schematic: a decoupling capacitor for the 4017, and an electrolytic cap for the 555.
Check if the clock (the 555 circuit) is working. disconnect the 4017 for a while, and test with a led (AND RESISTOR) on pin 3 from the 555 if there is an actual clcok-train.
For a schematic as an image, click my profile, where you will find a link to my website: you can also send a PM.
Can you give me the R3 caracteristic?
GlleONeill 4 months ago
Where can i get a parts list and schematic for this circuit?
MrTech302 4 months ago
if you use a 10k pot in place of resistor 2, you can vary the rate of flashes.
deeaks100 7 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
can u sent me the shematics?
plzz
patilsshree999 10 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
can you sent me the shematics?
plzz
TheTobs13 11 months ago
Comment removed
TheTobs13 11 months ago
whats the woltage needed for the high current one?
opiumrx 1 year ago
I built this on a breadboard and and moving to a PDB soon. I drew up a schematic in Eagle that you can download from edcarlson{dot}com/files/led_strobe.sch. I felt that the flash rate was too high with a 1uF cap, so I swapped it out for a 3.3uF which gives a slightly slower flash rate.
alt5productions 1 year ago
Comment removed
ananababa123 1 year ago
i built it and both leds flashes at the same time! what can be the failure?
ananababa123 1 year ago
@ananababa123 if your using darlington pairs Mosfets, or other large transistors that are TO-220 packaged, the metal part where heatsinks are screwed to might be shorted to each other [I.E using the same heatsink] For mine I use TIP122s, the heatsink part is the collector that connects to the LEDs, using the same heatsink will result in both flashing at the same rate. Hope this helps :)
R5H4D0W 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
can u sent me the shematics?
plzz
13royalknight 1 month ago
mahawan79 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
can u sent me the shematics?
CAguilar24 1 year ago
can u sent me the shematics?
plzz
13royalknight 1 year ago
Thanks for the shematics! ;-)
asdgz 1 year ago
i changed the 1uF cap to 3,3uF.. looks nicer :) thanks altho!!!
EstonskiTV 2 years ago
anyone had any problems with this? i built it and hooked it up to 12volts but cant get it to work
STFUProductions 2 years ago
@ STFUProductions: well, the circuit looks good: exactly the same how I built it 5 years ago.
The only thing I miss in the schematic: a decoupling capacitor for the 4017, and an electrolytic cap for the 555.
Check if the clock (the 555 circuit) is working. disconnect the 4017 for a while, and test with a led (AND RESISTOR) on pin 3 from the 555 if there is an actual clcok-train.
For a schematic as an image, click my profile, where you will find a link to my website: you can also send a PM.
weeardguy 2 years ago
Does anyone have a components list for this?
rdko7 2 years ago