Added: 3 years ago
From: gotoluc
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  • Yeha... free energy by playing with cos.phi :-]

    O.K. such a claim is hoax and you are right to show the world what it is... BS!!!

    THX 4 that...

    cheers...

  • good video. I think there is something out there that works but this just doesn't. If you follow the link to the original video you'll see 2 very interesting things.

    1. the guy lists in the description to hold off from building this device as it only points to free energy and more research is needed. 2. and i quote "It allows you to extract free electricity from your housing wire."  Come on now, if you are extracting from a grid then you obviously aren't making free power.

  • You should get power out of this, its nothing more then a crystal

    radio thats poorly built, I'm thinking 1/2 volt or so.

  • Sorry if my comment was a bit harsh but if the result relied in ANY way upon the tuning of the coil then your experiment's results are like comparing oil to water gotoluc.

    Peace

  • Hi RockManAU,

    your comments could be valid if you had built the device the way you believe it should be.

    I would be happy to remove this video if you or anyone else is capable of demonstrating a real working device using this principal.

    Thanks for looking at my crap and posting it.

    Luc

  • @RockManAU like megaman rockman? Cool!

  • This is total crap and not a valid experiment. Build it the way it was shown in the original video, not the way you decided to change it. (very unscientific gotoluc) Then after you have done that, give your opinion and make your demands IF they still apply. PS I demand you remove YOUR video until you follow the same parameters as the original video outlined. lol Things you changed: 1 the brass tube construction 2 the tube length 3 the circuit 4 everything Call that science? Not even close!
  • LUC,1 WHERE DO GET ALL THE MICROWAVE PARTS? 2 WHERE DID YOU BUY YOUR WAVE TECH SIGNAL GENERATOR.3 WHERE DID YOU BUY YOUR PC OSCILLOSCOPE?4.DID YOU EVER GET THE LAWNMOWER ENGINE TO RUN ON WATER? KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK. YOU ARE A BREATH OF FRESH AIR.......dermot

  • Comment removed

  • GT's measurement is INCORRECT. GT modifies the circuit.

  • I would like to see this addressed, too.

  • DT and GT, overunitydotcom was the first to point out that GT's test is not correct circuit. Nobody argues with overunitydotcom (Stephan). NOBODY! GT, your test is wrong.

  • GT's measurement setup is 100% correct.

    I would be pleased to argue this setup with Stephan. ANYBODY can debate Stephan.

    If you add a load to the circuit you mask out the ability to measure the 200 microamp draw because the meter will change scale. Actually adding a light bulb load so that current is flowing through the brass rail means that there will be a bigger magnetic field around the brass rail and more inductive coupling.

    Gotoluc is bulletproof in his test and measurements.

  • You guys please consider overunitydotcom's earlier comment. Otherwise, your test and replication is totally inaccurate.

  • Hi LoneOarman, I also believed epower at first but after building it I was disappointed to say the least. Even after that I talked to him on the phone for over an hour and it did not help, it actually made it worse as he was trying to convince me and I think if you have something real it should speak for itself.

    Please do let me know one way or the other succesfull or not of replicating his claim.

    Thanks

    Luc

  • What you now refer to as stray capacitance is what is running the xmas lights. epower maintains that xmas lights "on or off", the grid draw remains the same. I believe epower, but I'm going to test this for myself.

  • I said that stray capacitance could be another way for the energy to couple into the Christmas lights. Inductive (transformer) coupling is the other way that I stated the energy could couple into the Christmas lights. It should be perfectly clear to you now. If you don't know what that means when I refer to stray capacitive and stray inductive energy coupling then I suggest that you go to Wikipedia and learn about this.

    > "on or off", the grid draw remains the same.

    GL made the measurements

  • GL did not wire or measure this correctly. GL did not measure grid side with an incandescent light burning, and then measure grid again with incandescent and circuit 2 xmas lights burning to look for any difference. The hot brass rod is leaking, spewing, or bleeding what you call stray capacitance or inductance into the coil, what I thought was radiant energy or some sort of RF.

  • By wrapping the coil on a metal tube, the metal acts as a shorted secondary and invalidates the test unless the original.

  • Thanks for trying. I hope the next is more successful.

  • My comments from one month ago:

    If you unplug the plug from the wall socket, then the "free energy" goes away, correct?

    "all you are doing is removing the free static electric charge x 60hz that surrounds the hot supply black wire"

    That statement does not even make any sense. There is no such thing as a "free static electric charge x 60hz".

    You are ultimately exploiting a small transformer coupling between the AC mains power and your wire coil. You ARE drawing power from the grid.

  • GT, DT, I thought I knew you better than this. Is this neon bulb video drawing current from the grid? If you think so, induction, then you've lost your mind.

    /watch?v=iLlrd7nszY8

  • I am not sure exactly what you mean. With respect to the clip you point to, it is horse shit, and there is no such thing as 'cold' electricity. It's just a fantasy, something that people make up because they don't understand what they are observing. It's also a manufactured concept by people that want to sell you books and DVDs.

  • To clarify, look at 2:50 on the video below and do you believe that the bulb power is metered? It's the same principal behind the crystal radio, no battery needed, just RF.

    Again, /watch?v=iLlrd7nszY8

  • Mr. H2O2 is just a Joe Blow that is using YouTube to try to sell you his little kits that consist of a PCB and a few components that you solder in place. He is just trying to make a buck and there is nothing special in what he demos. He is good at creating mystique and you have to assume that is good for sales.

  • "Formally Cold Electricity #3. How to fold excess energy from the Spatial Lattice into a working circuit. Display of dimensional energy folding."

    The above statement is complete and utter nonsense.

  • DT, You're stubborn. Tesla's Wardencliff Tower, wireless electricity transmitter, is/was also unmetered current, same principal (bleedoff, radiant eneryg). Are you a Mason? You never answer my question, and then you spew. Tesla, Moray, Perrigo, Plauson, Hubbard, Gray, Roy Meyers, Bedini, Lindemann, Bearden, it's proven science that there is free electricity in the air/ether, and that you can add/subtract it.

  • You mean is the neon bulb drawing power from the grid? Yes it is. Unfortunately you can't understand what you are looking at but I can. I'm not a Mason. You are spewing in the end by rattling off a bunch of names and pretending it carries some weight. It's not proven science. Funny that there is not a single proven free energy device working in the world as we speak. Rumors that Bedini has one years ago. Holy Shit, he had the secret to the world's energy problems and dropped the ball.

  • DT, My question was if the neon bulb is metered. It is not, it's running on leakage from the circuit: Exactly what epowerplus is doing. Is it free energy? Is leakage free energy? Of coarse it is.

    Solar free energy? Gridless HOME/CARs:

    /watch?v=MgnsNv_aHSA

    Sea Waves Free Energy? Wave Dragon:

    /watch?v=r7-EPR8Ss6M

  • I have seen both clips before. I am drawing a distinction between solar and wave energy and related things, and 'magic free energy' that comes 'from the vacuum' or whatever.

    > Is leakage free energy? Of coarse it is.

    No it it not, Gotoluc proved that Epowerplus' energy comes from the grid. The 'leak' has to come from somewhere, the power source. Like I said, you don't understand where the energy comes from to light the neon bulb in that other clip, it comes from the mains power.

  • I've been following epower's project for months, and I never realized that the grid wire had to have load on it in order to produce radiant. He could tap into the house wire just after the main breaker and eliminate that. People argue that xmas lights are induction, metered, but it's not. Florescent bulbs also spew radiant. This whole project is Tesla's Patent #685957 & #685958 "The Genius that Lit the World"

  • No, there is a very small transformer coupling between the mains-electrified rod and the coil. It is as simple as that, between the Christmas lights and the mains power there is a small transformer. Period, that's it. Gotoluc measured the power going through the transformer, end of story. There is no radiant nothing going on.

    Fluorescent bulbs emit electromagnetic radiation at various wavelengths and intensities and it has nothing to do with radiant energy as you define it.

  • Just one side of the coils are connected, no ground. Doesn't this eliminate a load against the grid? Or, are you saying that it does pull a milliamp load, but not much? If so, then wouldn't GT need 3 amp meters, one on the house, coils, and xmas lights?

  • Even with one side of the coil connected there can be an small energy transfer.  I forgot to mention it could also be fully or partially due to capacitive coupling. In any circuit there is stray capacitance and stray inductance everywhere, and with an AC source then energy can propagate through the stray capacitive and inductive couplings.

    To answer your second question, no GT only needs to measure the current consumption increase from the main AC power source.

  • DT/GT incorrect. You'd need to test the AC power source both with and without the xmas lights burning, to look for any additional draw. Sure, it's impractical as hell, paying Sam to rob Paul (milliamps), but that's the point. I've got an old cell phone transformer here that I can get the wire from, not wasting anything... I'll let you know.

  • Maybe I am doing something wrong, but this far I think that we could use this setup with much more turns so that the DC output gets above 1000V or so and then just use that to light up florescent lights and see how efficient is that.

  • You are wasting your time here Jetijs. Any high voltage you could generate with this setup will be at a ridiculously high impedance and not be able to drive a fluorescent light load. This whole 'experiment' does nothing more than demonstrate a small and very weak transformer coupling. The huge rod and the insulation and the big coil of wire could very easily be replaced by a tiny transformer the size of your finger tip, like you see on transistor radio circuit boards.

  • Hi Jetijs, please do not put any more time or money in this as Drevtoobe has advised you and now myself also.

    Luc

  • Thanks for your opinion, along with your buddy Drevtoobe, but I think you both lack the vision or blind as a bat...or maybe it just the lack of knowledge...Who made you the advisor...when you totally failed the testing of a simple device...

  • The test was rock solid. It's your test where you say power a light bulb and connect-disconnect the circuit that is flawed and the reason is stated below in this thread.

    Your entire setup could be replaced by a real transformer about the size of the tip of your pinky.

  • Then I also tried the 10mm rod and 14mm tube, the rod made 180V on the dc side and the tube made 205V. So the bigger the diameter, the more wire you need to get the same turn count, also the greater the voltage on the DC side. But when you put a load on the DC side, there is not much energy. I can light up just one 10mm LED or neon bulb. Of course that isnt even one watt of energy and my wall current meter just shows zero, because the minimum it can show is 1W.

  • Hi Luc :)

    I also just tried this setup. I wound about 100 turns of gauge 21 wire on a 4mm stainless steel rod, a 10mm stainless steel rod and a 14mm diameter copper tube. I do not have a ground in my house AC outlet, just the hot and neutral wire. At first I used the 4mm rod and used a big aluminum box as a ground. This made about 40V on the DC side. Then I tried to use the outlets neutral wire as a ground and got about 140V on the DC side.

  • If you look at all my video's you will find that my research and interests is only about trying to find an alternative energy solutions. So to say I don't want free energy is a ridiculous statement.

    Luc

  • Good job! It's like mythbusters of free energy. I'd say that one is busted! lol

  • My number one intent here is really to help stop waste of natural resources of our World. Some people maybe building this and thinking they would be saving money but in the end they would find no energy saved and wasted their money but what is worse, is wasting supplies used to build this which are natural resources that may end up in a dump.

    We need to be more careful when we make this kind of claim. We must think of all the consequences.

    Luc

  • Hi Luc, I am epowerplus...You have failed in your testing of my device...Sure your led light will draw a current on the d/c or a/c side of the bridge, thats normal. To show if the device is drawing power from the grid you must connected a load, such as a light bulb before the device and check the draw prior adding the device to this same setup and re-check your meter again. You will see no increase in the current draw, thats free energy...My claims still stands...your testing failed....big time.

  • Hi epowerplus, I have followed you circuit diagram. I really tried my best to make this work but it does not. The instructions you are telling me to do sound confusing and it is not something you have done in your video. At no time do you show a meter measuring the grid side prior to your device.

    Luc

  • In my video, I show a meter which reads 62volts or so with the same exact meter as the one in your video. What is confusing, add a light bulb before your add the device. Check the current to the light, now add the device and re-test to see if the current went up on the meter....thats all. With your setup, of course you are going to show a draw, but its not coming from the grid...test again and you will see...I never have and never will mislead my viewers. What you see is the god`s truth...

  • Your instructions are confusing because first of all, your device output is DC and at the size I made it can barely light one LED but it's good enough for a proof of concept. Second of all is, the grid side is AC and can output over 15 Amps at 120 volts, so I'm lost as to how I can use a light bulb that would give a comparable result on each sides.

    Please do a new video and show us the whole testing thing you are talking about and maybe we can understand it then.

    Luc

  • Hi Luc,

    epowerplus said, that you must run a small light bulb load from hot wire to ground, so that is already a current running from the grid to ground. Otherwise there will be no real current "gas" in the brass tube, which you could pick up with his coil.

    Please retry again with a 25 or 40 Watts bulb

    being lighted by the grid and see, if the input current is raised, when you connect the LED...But better use a bigger load, not just 1 LED ! Many thanks.

  • Hi Stefan, I hate to waste, so the brass plumbing tube I used was returned from where I bought it. The wire coil was not worth saving so I had to waste it. I do not believe this device works and do not wish to invest any more time or money on it either. At the time I was doing the test the home had some loads on the electrical panel of more than 50 watts and it did not change a thing. So it would not change to have a bulb visible or further away as load.

    Luc

  • The draw is coming from the grid and Gotoluc proved that it is coming from the grid by making the correct measurements. Your setup demonstrates a weak transformer coupling between the grid and the coil. You should have made the same measurements as Gotoluc before you posted your clip. There is no 'free energy' whatsoever demonstrated in your clip. Like I said before, unplug the setup from the grid and your lights go out.

  • I told you more than a month ago that your device showed nothing and I congratulate Gotoluc for proving this.

    ".Sure your led light will draw a current on the d/c or a/c side of the bridge"

    He is not measuring on either side of the bridge, he is truly measuring the AC mains current.

  • "To show if the device is drawing power from the grid you must connected a load, such as a light bulb before the device and check the draw prior adding the device to this same setup and re-check your meter again. You will see no increase in the current draw, thats free energy"

    That is a totally misleading statement. If you attach a light bulb load, then the current consumption of the load will mask the minuscule additional 110 microampere load of the LED.

  • So of course you will see no increase in current draw because if the multimeter is on the 'amps' scale, it will not be able to show an additional 100 microamperes of current consumption when you add the LED load. It's like you are trying to play a game of smoke and mirrors.

    In case anyone is interested, I also reverse engineered Epoweplus' "Earth Motor" which is not a free energy device, it is powered by batteries.

  • You could not reverse engineer because you do not have all of the facts...I think you need to go back to school and start over. Question, Where did you see the batteries, it was only in your mind...and by the way, guessing is not reverse engineering. I really don`t care you believe me or not...so be it.

  • Actually you mentioned the batteries in the thread yourself. Guessing is not reverse engineering, just my best educated guess based on all of the clues that you left.

    There is nothing wrong with a 'compass motor' that has to be aligned North-South and is powered by two AA batteries, it's just not free energy.

  • I did not mention any such batteries...that was your so call reverse engineering, just a wild guess...Your best educated guess failed you...and just to remind you once again...there are no...batteries.

  • Hi Drevtoobe, thanks for all your comments. I was on the phone talking with epowerplus and what you wrote is exactly what I told him, the load would loose the ability to measure the correct draw.

    Luc

  • You are very welcome!

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