Great video sir, i've tried it on some DeWalt batteries and it works. However i colud not get the "shock therapy" to work on all the sub-c cells even though i tried it a few times. Is there a work-around for that problem or does those batteries need to be replaced?
@nordga9 Those are beyond help, I'm afraid. So, if you are going to replace them - replace ALL of them. No sense adding new cells to work along side old ones.
Check out my video: youtube.com/watch?v=ig2fbI2jejM
THANK YOU. Went to hang drapes---dead nicad packs for 14.4V Craftsman drill; wavered from buying just one pack, to a whole new set up and this fix...The packs will at least take a charge, now!!! We'll see...if they last for a couple jobs this'll be great. I did like the video. car battery, voltmeter leads, goggles, and Volia!
NICE VIDEO ! THANKS.. some are shocking golf cart (also used in electric cars) with something either 1. High volts , low amps (ie 2 x higher volts such 24 volts ) for 12 v battery (lead acid type) for 12 - 24 hrs or 2. Super high amps at normal voltage (IE 200amps for short few seconds at 12 v) ... "they " say it works. goto doublebatterylife come has youtube videos (3 separate videos) showing how our patented USA circuit is getting double running time out of alkaline batteries. .
@MrMaypole14 Better off buying all new ones. The whole pack. Because the older cells will fail long before the new ones. Then, you'll be in the same place, again.
Watch: "Ni-CD battery rebuild and upgrade Part1" And "Part 2"
I show you how to solder together the cells to make your new pack.
@MrMaypole14 If you go to E-Pay you will find numerous vendors that sell the sub-c batteries with the 'tabs' already soldered on. You only have to solder the wires together. Much safer than soldering on the battery. I bought 15 sub-c batteries from a nice man in China, delivered to Canada for $1.50 each. So for $22.50 I rebuilt the battery pack in my 18 volt drill. And they were 2400 MaH. Most battery packs are 1800 MaH at the best.
when it comes to purrrchasing replacement batteries .. furr a laptop as an example.. it appears that i have a 3 choice option after window shopping.. (funny, i was looking at batteries, not glass LOL).. 1)... low quality lower price regardless of brand name.. 2).. hi quality, top priced, select manufacturers.. 3)... lo quality with high price... i was once told it comes down to the purity of the chemistry used to make the cell.. can u verify?
@somewhereone You missed two: High quality, lower price than retail. Or, refurbished, lower price than retail. I found a refurbished for my thinkpad at 1/2 the cost of new retail one. Still working fine for the last 2 years.
9-13-11 I'm sitting here with a bad 12V DeWalt battery in front of me, and about to dig in. I've been thinking of replacing the individual bad cells in this batt for quite some time, but have never seen the "defibrillator jump method" you and others sre showing. Also, I have never heard of the polarity reversing.?! Well people do it now, why not batteries? I'd appreciate it if you could briefly explain WHY or HOW it reverses.?? Thanks!
@MrMaypole14 Make sense? And the "defibrillator jump method" as you so aptly call it, provides a jolt to break up the large crystal formations back into smaller ones. The reason is may only give you a few more charges, or 50 more is how weak the crystals are. Good strong ones will resist clumping up again for a while, weak ones will not.
@MrMaypole14 The crystalline structure inside is initially many tiny ones. Lots of sides to hold a polarized charge. As it's used and charged, the crystals attract each other forming larger ones, weakening the potential to carry a bigger charge. Eventually the get so weak they act as if THEY are just one of the crystals of the battery next to it. So, they become another positive to the positive pole on one side, and a negative to the negative pole on the other. Essentially, flipping
Thank you for the reply dude... as for your comment about 'UNFOLDING' them... if you'll kindly forward an e-mail address to my inbox, i'll send you a photo showing you how that appears to be a right impossibility! lol Seriously... it's terminals are boxed in, on and around the upper plastic locator for when the grey cover is on / off (depending stage of fitting).
Not much fun :-(
Thanks for the reply and hope to hear from you soon :-)
P.S. Just removed the 4 torx screws holding the casing together on my battery, removed the covering and to say it's a mess to strip down and disconnect is putting it politely! Battery is this - Makita 18V 2.6Ah Ni-MH Battery - 1834 - if you or anyone else can tell me a way to get to all the cells then please... i'm all ears! Thanks in advance :D
@dx69suckit You do not need to disconnect the cells! "Unfold" them just enough to put the meter's leads to the ends of one cell at a time. Mark all the bad ones. Then go back and zap 'em one at a time and bundle it all back into the casing. Make sense?
hiya dude! great 'how to' you have here... just got hold of a Makita 18v cordless with 2 batteries, both dead (seemingly) and i'd just like to ask two small questions if i may?
1. With it being 18v, do you only need the 2 seconds when jumping a cell?
2. How long does this last for? I mean once jumped, do they tend to die again relatively soon or...? May as well ask how many times you can jump them after asking that as well hadn't i! lol
@dx69suckit If the cell is reading zero or negative volts, zap it 1 - 3 seconds with 12volt DC. Remember, each cell is only 1.2 volts.
Life expectancy: 1 to 20 or more charges. Too many variables to be specific. If you correct the polarity of all the bad cells, then charge it right away ... use it on .. something. Do not store it with a full charge or it won't last long at all. Then, if you charge it to use it, and put it away with 1/4 of so umph left, it will last longer. Do not store in heat!
hi mate, finally got into the pack and think this one is going to be a bit more than i can sort. the board looks to be rusted up on the points and the batteries are of a size i dont recognise, they look like AA types but are slightly wider and alot taller! definatly not c or d's! :-(
That's brill mate. I'll give it a bash once ive got myself a tamperproof torx screwdriver to get into the dam thing. Does it matter if my car battery is 13-14v as thats what I was goin to use to zap the duff cells? Also you use the term gauge in wires? I'm a Brit and we use mm cable size over here. 2.5mm should sort it though I guess. That's what we use to wire in house plug sockets for 13amp sockets. Thanks for getting back so quick. Paul
@johnsbegood !3 - 14v is fine. Those tamper-proof bits we call security bits over here. And 2.5 sounds just about right. Seems like you've got it sorted, my friend. Let me know how it went. And, good luck! ... Mark
Hi mate. Have a makita 24v ni-mh 3.3ah battery that's not accepting charge no longer. Do I just follow your technique of zapping the duff battery with it rated voltage? Or would I need to do something different?? Many thanks. Paul
@johnsbegood Yes, you zap each bad cell with 12v DC for 1 to 3 seconds, then check its voltage. Should be 1.2 volts. Then put it back together and charge it. But, use it a bit after its charged. Storing a fully charged battery is one of the things that leads to its failure. Thanks for the comments, Paul!
@royroyboxing Yeah, sure. But doesn't your meter have its own test leads? Anyway, as to type of wire for a substitute; 12 gauge stranded. Only because of the potential heat that can be generated. That's what stranded is for, to dissipate heat.
@royroyboxing Yeah, I know it is made for the ends that spring out around their circumference to grip inside the hole. Harder for them to pop out that way. You can use that 12g though - Just take another piece of wire, or even paper clip and use it as a shim and put both together into the hole. Just keep bending the clip till it's big enough to fit it and the wire snug. Ya think? Good luck, my Brother! And, thanks for the comment!
Well, I cracked open the sealed (no screws) 12 volt batteries and followed your instructions. My batteries work great and are glueing as we speak. Thanks alot. I would like to rebuild my other 12 volt batteries and 9.6 but they use shorter batteries than the sub-c I ordered. I'm not sure what battteries will fit. Thanks again.
Well, I cracked open the sealed (no screws) 12 volt batteries and followed your instructions. My batteries work great and are glueing as we speak. Thanks alot. I would like to rebuild my other 12 volt batteries and 9.6 but they use shorter batteries than the sub-c I ordered. I'm not sure what battteries will fit. Thanks again.
@MRDUBLD1 Glad it worked! Better than buying new ones, eh? As to the shorter batteries. Here's a chart > World Wide Web(dot)powerstream(dot)com/Size.htm If they are the same diameter (23 mm) then they are in the Sub C family. My guess is you have the "4/5 sub C" size. (Length = 34 mm). Regular sub C's are 43 mm. But check the your battery measurement against the charts specs to be sure you get the right ones. Cheers, Bro ... And thank you for the comments!
what amp dc input do u use to shock the battery. how about the trickel charge on a battery car charger. will that work. how many amps max is the shock at 12volts
@TOPAGENT You mean dc output. It either from a 12v battery or a transformer. I have several "wall warts" that put out 12v DC and the one that works best is 2000 mA because I only have to zap it one second. At minimum you need 12vDC-200mA and three second zap. But, you may need to zap it more than once. Maybe several times even, to get it to correct the polarity. And, that runs the risk of overheating the cell ... and then in turn ... BOOM! That was your sub C cell making like a firecracker.
I was about to buy 2 battery packs for my dewalt which hasn't had much action for the last few years and as a result both batteries seemed to be fubar :D. I'm happy I did a quick search on youtube because you've just saved me 100 bucks!.
@kromanic Right On! And that, folks, is the very reason I posted these vids. To help ya all save some dough and feel good about fixin' it yourself. Thank for the comment kromanic!
hey man nice vid!!! but i have a problem i found a nicd battery from my ez-starter
but it have been unchareged for 2 years or so and it have leaked some stuff out and its a bit coroded but it does work but not very well and it does take a charge.... do ii have to do this or do i have to weld it... you know....
@soverato3 If it has leaked DO NOT DO THIS FIX ! This fix is for cells that are still sealed and not corroded! Your best bet is to find the size of your cells (C, sub C, etc.), buy replacements and then solder them together to make a new powerpak. See my other vid here "Ni-Cd Battery Rebuild and Upgrade" to see how its done.
Thanks for putting this up. it works well, but I have a question. I can zap bad cells and then get a battery to charge as much as 21.5v, but in a day or two, simply sitting on the shelf, it will drain to 15 or 16 volts. What causes this "voltage drain"?
@Borregoinla Here's how it works: There are small crystals inherent within a good Ni-Cd cell. That is what 'holds' the charge. As it is used and recharged the crystals combine and become larger - meaning now have less surface area than many small ones, make sense so far? So when we zap it, that breaks up those larger crystals - they do not return to original, initial state but enough to hold a charge again. Continued ...
@Borregoinla Overcharging is bad. And storing with at full or overcharged voltage tends to make the crystals combine, or 'grow' again. Store them with a low charge, but not dead. You'll find this will make the 'fix' last longer and not go bad as soon. Also, store in cool dry place. Heat, any source - i.e. direct sunlight, summer temperatures, etc is an enemy to your cells. Make sense, Bro? Thanks for the question!
This works, but I have a question. I can get a battery to charge as much as 21.5v, but in a day or two, simply sitting on the shelf, it will drain to 15 or 16 volts. What causes this "voltage drain"?
I will have to try this on an old 18V coleman drill battery. I ended up modding the other one into a 12V adaptor like thing that enables me to run my drill off a 12V car lighter socket. I use a 12V car jumpstarter with a power socket to hook up the drill. I have plenty of wall warts around , I think I have a 12VDC 1000mA (1 amp) one that I can try this with. can it be a switching type wart or a standard transformer wart.
Give the man a medal !! Just revived 1x12v & 1x14.4v dewalt batt packs, will try the other 2 tomorrow. If you're around my way you're due a few beers, thanks
@brownlog86 Depends on a lot of things; condition, age, even the charger as some have a 'cut-off' when done, some don't.
I had a few that lasted an extra month or so - maybe 5 or 6 charges. Then there was the one that I had to keep zapping - after two times of taking it apart I just said screw it and rebuilt it with new cells.
@Dem0D1ck Yes, you can. That's what I currently use. 12vDC - 1000mAh transformer (Wall Wart). For safety I installed an in-line, 1.5amp, automotive fuse (wired in the positive side). It works great! Sometimes it takes a couple of 'zaps' to correct the polarity of a particularly bad cell, but it gets it done. Thanks for the comment!
@phxexaminer Wasn't sure if you were using a 12 volt car battery. Thanks, appreciate the info. Have a Skil 12V battery pack that I can try this on, if it works it'll save me 40+ bucks for a new battery. Great idea!
I have done this to all my batteries but they dont last very long as they would a new battery.I`m now looking to replace the old cells with new ones,how do we fix the metal strap down to the cells if we dont have access to a spot welder?Also I`ve found a supplier for the "c" type rechargeable cells but the cells have a higher (mah) rating,does this matter also?
@spongebobstoenail See my other two part series: "Ni-CD battery rebuild and upgrade". I use a soldering tool to make the connection. You don't need a spot welder. As to the higher mAh; A higher rating is actually desirable. Your power pack will last longer then the original. There is a limit the charger will handle, though. 40/forty percent higher than the original is as high an upgrade you should go. Hope this helps!
@spongebobstoenail you can try soldering but i would just be careful to try to avoid heating the batteries up too much with it and as for the higher mAh theres no reason that they should cause problems just be careful how much you increase for example if you had a 1.8 Ah battery pack and you end up making a 3 Ah pack thats too big 30 to 40% higher mAh should be right about where youd wanna stay i dont know the details on your batteries but im sure you can do the math on your own
@spongebobstoenail I try to peel the strip off as neatly as possible, dremel the burrs away, drill a small hole in the strip so the solder can penetrate the area.
I'm going to Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware and any other place with a door that has batteries for recycle tomorrow and ask "can I go through your recycling center and get the batteries left for recycle?" I'll be sure and ask a manager first, then take them home and fix them FOR MY PERSONAL USE (if they will let me have any).
Let me see if I got you right "doggy": You buy a battery with the sole intent to change the good batteries for the bad ones in your's. So you put your bad one's in, take it back and LIE by telling the retailer "that the battery would not hold a charge" and get your money back ......that's STEALING no matter how you look at it "puppy dog"!! End of story!!
@maddog380 Who the hell said I did that? Oh-I see now. You read a comment on here from someone named ihdieselman.
Look closely -You'll see that I NEVER said that, houndDoggy I do not condone or support anything unlawful or immoral. What I did say "You can go to a recycling center (Commonly in the same store you get your power tools; Home Depot, etc) and find batteries left for recycle. Ask a manager first, then take them home and fix them FOR PERSONAL USE." END OF STORY, DOGGY DO-DO!
To @phxexaminer: What your doing is being a thief and a liar! This is the most dishonest thing you could ever do and people like you is what makes prices go up! Thanks for screwing all of the honest people out here trying to do what is right!!!
@maddog380 A thief? What have I stolen? Nothing. Liar? This fix works-see all the positive feedback below. Prices go up? Um. That's why we fix things ourselves. To keep our costs down. An economist, you are not mad bad puppy dog. Price is based on supply. But now it's from Obama-nation's inflation. You do what is right? By buying replacement at retail price? Get a clue: They are OVERPRICED, for one. And your purchase does nothing for the USA economy. Check the tag, doggy. They're made in China.
@upgw Yeah, I wish it would work that way, Bro. But, it doesn't. You'll need to check each one, then zap the bad ones to correct their polarity. A zero reading doesn't mean they are all bad collectively. There still may be, and most probably are, a few that are not reversed.
This will and does work but you will have to do all of the batteries or you will have the same trouble in about 2 charges. I tried it and that's what happened to me.
So if your going to go to all of this time and trouble just get the volt and amp of the battery Go on Ebay and buy the next higher amp batteries or the same apm and volt.. Make you a diagram of how there put together then un-solder each battery, re-solder the new ones, put the battery pack together and charge for the battery.
The jackass is the person who would willingly take something that they have no right to. A person that buys a new drill for no purpose other than switching thier old batteries with the new ones in the drill kit is a thief. Plain and simple. That is something that only a person that has no moral compass would be proud of.
This is all well and good, but no explanation is being given here as to what is happening electrically or chemically.
To be more realistic about the scope of this cure, let 's first explore why NiMH / NiCad cells fail. One common cause is that conductive whiskers form chemically through the electrolyte between the plates. This causes one or more cells to become much less charged than the rest in the series.
This is all well and good, but no explanation is being given here as to what is happening electrically or chemically.
To be more realistic about the scope of this cure, let 's first explore why NiMH / NiCad cells fail. One common cause is that conductive whiskers form chemically through the electrolyte between the plates. This causes one or more cells to become much less charged than the rest in the series.
@phxexaminer One useful piece of advice would be to give battery packs a regular cycling say every two months if not regularly in use. They also benefit from being stored at low temperatures.
@phxexaminer One useful piece of advice would be to give battery packs a regular cycling say every two months if not regularly in use. They also benefit from being stored at low temperatures. The quality of the cells used plays a huge part too. I have come across test equipment with the original NiCad cells still installed which have been working since the 1960's using industrial grade rather than consumer grade cells.
@phxexaminer From my knowledge of RC car racing over about 20 years, with the sub C cells, the Nimh should never be completely discharged. As soon as the drill starts to loose power, stick a fresh battery pack in it, and if the used pack is warm, don't charge it till it's cold again. Nicads are much more tolerant of abuse and can be discharged totally before recharging, and don't mind a little warmth either. But the best way with any battery pack is to use a good quality peak sensing charger.
@wordreet What g7txu was on about is the fact that this 2 second flash method that you have described, appears to break down those 'whiskers' that build up and can short the cell right through. And the theory is that the flash method won't work properly on a completely flat cell.
All batteries benefit from being discharged 'correctly' but that is obviously not possible for a working guy that needs to finish a job, so sometimes you will just have to put up with buying new and extra battery packs.
@sparkyvolts First, question: Is it 7Ah? (7000 mA?) Then yes, absolutely. Get them fully charged first.
I guess you'll have to rig a way to hook your wires to the source battery. Alligator clips. Or a thick copper wire (10 gauge) and pound the end flat then "shim" it into the battery's terminal. One battery should hold enough to zap all 10 of your cells on the 12volt De Walt (if needed). Good luck, Brother!
@phxexaminer Why would you call me a Jackass you idiot! I have an easier and cheaper fix. Buy a new drill or battery, swap old and new batteries and return. Its also alot faster than this dickhead maneuver!
But, if you can't see the difference, or at least direct your reply to them and not me ... Then you have CERTAINLY revealed your level of intelligence. So, you're right! You shouldn't attempt this. Much too complicated for you to comprehend.
Buying new is easier ... not cheaper. And this 'maneuver' works. As evidenced by every single commenter .... Except, of course, you. Still, thank you for your comment.
I dont have any old car batteries. I was wondering if i can use one of those car battery chargers for jump starting your car? I have one of those with the built in light, power inverter, jumper cables etc. What advice do you have?
@yimmer1 Yeah, you can ... but the amp output is gonna be high. Unless it is a maintenance charger. Give your dead cell a 1 second zap, then check for voltage. If no joy - go 2 seconds. check again. Just always be aware of how hot the cell gets. If it's really hot, or worse, too hot to touch and you still have no positive voltage - cool it off (See freezer method in below comments). Then, zap it again. And, you especially should wear protection for your face, hands and arms. Okay, Brother?
@yaripapo Yes. Use a 12volt DC transformer (Charger cord) with a high mA. Mine has 1500 mA - found it at goodwill for a buck. If you can only get your hands on a lower mA, use it. Zap the cell, check for voltage. If no joy, zap it again. You can do this several times but, CAUTION !! Before re-zapping check if the cell is getting warm. If, yes - let it cool down first (Or, I pop 'em in an open Tupperware container, put it in the freezer for 2 minutes only and you're good to go for more zappin'!
@halvarosky 24 volts DC? Thats a big power pack. But it wouldn't matter if it was 120 volts DC - you still only zap one 1.2 volt cell at a time with a 12volt DC power source. Yours has 20 of the 1.2 volt cells. (Or should.) Who is the manufacturer?
@phxexaminer Hi, it´s a Makita´s hammer-drill battery NiMH 24v 2Amp I don´t know how many cells there are inside...I try to be sure before opennig it because it doesn´t have normal screws and I will should to broke it a little...anyway if I found 10 cells inside does it means that the voltage of each one is 24/10=2,4v then it will work with a 12v DC power source?
@halvarosky Hey - You'll find 20 cells. 1.2 volts each. Standard for most power tools. 'Cause they're cheaper than 'custom' cells and they buy cells in bulk - thousands at a time. For the special screws - go to a good tool store or automotive store and get a set of "specialty' bits. Also called "Security" bits. (5 to 10 US Dollars) It has most bits for tamper resistant heads, like those Torx screws with the post inside where the bit goes. Is that cool?
@phxexaminer yeah! i´ve got the secutiry bit´s and I´ve opened the battery but now i have mesured the voltage in each cell (you were right there are 20 of them) and i haven´t found the bad ones... now what sould i do? i should shock them all?
Before open the battery i´ve made a half charge, should I charge the battery before or after open it?
@halvarosky Voltage all (+) above zero? ONLY shock if polarity reversed. Before putting together, add up all voltage from cells. Check the voltage at terminals + and - of the power pack. Does it = the total you got? If no - any components in the wiring of power pack? Isolate (Remove from circuit) and check for open (fusible link, or thermistor) both should be closed. If okay, put together - use pencil eraser & rub hard on terminals to clean them. Then charge.again.
Just wanted to say "Thanks a MILLION"! I zapped my 18v Ridgid batteries using the 12v Impact tool battery and it worked like a CHAMP! I didn't/couldn't even zap all the bad cells, there were 2 or 3 I couldn't get to. Zapped what I could, all of which showed 0 on my $3 multimeter from Harbor Freight, used some old wire laying around, and whammo, 20 minutes later, saved big money! IT DOES WORK! Was showing 2.4 volts for the pack, now 20volts after a charge! Thanks so much for posting! A++++
@roselle125 Hey, check to see if there are any seams that can be pried apart with a thin screw driver blade. Obviously if it isn't charging there's nothing to lose if you break the case. But try to save any pieces. That's why Richard Gelb,invented Super-Glue! ( He worked for a Cleveland, Ohio chemical company called Permatex). Check the top (tower) it looks like a seam goes right round it like a 'cap'. Check the main seam, too. Sometimes there are hidden locking tabs inside at the seam. okay?
HI;I have a makita 14.4 metal hydride battery that wont take a charge how do i open the case to access the batteries,their are no screws on the case.thank you .
@roselle125 They like to hide the screw holes. Take a pencil eraser (same width as a #2 Phillips screwdriver) and push the eraser down along the labels. You'll find the label will depress where the screw holes are. Also, there may be 'knock-outs' or plugs. Knock-outs are small disc-like sections of the same color that are flush with the surface. Plugs are rubber or vinyl and look as "feet' protruding out slightly so the unit sits on them instead of sitting flat on the casing. Let me know, okay?
Just wanted to say "Thanks a MILLION"! I zapped my 18v Ridgid batteries using the 12v Impact tool battery and it worked like a CHAMP! I didn't/couldn't even zap all the bad cells, there were 2 or 3 I couldn't get to. Zapped what I could, all of which showed 0 on my $3 multimeter from Harbor Freight, used some old wire laying around, and whammo, 20 minutes later, saved big money! IT DOES WORK! Was showing 2.4 volts for the pack, now 20volts after a charge! Thanks so much for posting! A++++
Kind Sir, thank you for this tutorial. I found 2 B&D 18 volt battery packs like I use on my cordless drill at the local trash drop off point. Brought them home and applied your method to them. Before I did I charged them for a couple hours. One read 4.8 volts, the other read 0 volts. After using your method, charged again for 1 hour, both were reading 20.5 volts. Thank you again, $70 worth of batteries for $0............Scott
@thegunit1400 Now that's what I call enterprising! I don't care what they say about you, you're a smart guy, Scott! (Just kidding with you Bro) But not about the smart bit, that was a brilliant idea. Got me thinking ........ there's a drop off right at the corner .... humm .....
Hey like the video. I did everything up to the point were you zap each battery that was bad. What I found funny was that each battery that gave me a reading of 0, did not give me a negative symbol when I reversed the tester leads. But I zapped them. But I still didn't get a volt reading afterward. Still zero. I have a 4 year old ridgid drill. Maybe I have to charge it to see results. Can you give me a little input.
@nelly03g A zero reading and a negative reading means the same; polarity reversal. First, inspect the cell - is it damaged? (Partially crushed, leaking, etc)
If OK:
Try 'zapping' them again, then test. If no joy, zap again. (Also, try longer zaps - 3 seconds each). Once you DO get voltage readings you MUST assemble it and charge it immediately or it will revert back to it's reversed state.
Hope this helps! Let me know if it doesn't or you need more input. Good Luck, Bro!
Just wanted to say thanks for the Tip, I was a little skeptical at 1st with all the BS hoax videos on here, but i had a Dewalt 12v drill that was 10 yrs old and only showed 3.5 volts so I figured i didn't have anything to lose so I gave it a shot. All I used was a 6amp 12volt battery charger to do the Zapping and all 6 cells that showed 0 volts came up to over 1.35 volts the other 3 were the only ones good to start.... now pack is like new and I saved 50 bucks for a new one,,,
@rusmokin - Cool! Yep, an auto battery charger is a perfect power source. You're right about the BS on Ytube. I did try to show everything I did to get the results claimed. But, a video hacker could probably splice and dice something believable as well. Maybe if they put all that time and energy towards something good we'd live in a better place, huh?
Anyway, glad it worked out for you, Brother. Cheers!
Great tip, easy and to the point! Thanks a bunch! Now if I could only fix all my cell phone battery packs that have gone dead! Many thanks for taking the time to do this and upload!
@latheworks Glad you're getting some practical use out of it!
Good luck on the cell phone ones though! It's a conspiracy , I tell ya. They have the tech to produce ones that would go weeks without a charge, and years without replacing. I'd pay more for that! But, they don't want your 20 or 50 or 100 bucks for that one battery, they want you to replace, replace ... Job security, I'm thinkin'. Hehe
Sure thing bro. I'll tell ya something I learned long ago. "Anyone who knows something about anything, can teach that thing to anyone. And if you tell it with humor, they'll remember everything learned." - From my favorite teacher, my Dad.
Into Z-cars Huh? Had an '81 turbo, 1st year they made 'em. Loved it. Just 1 year then totaled it. Mr. Beer's fault. He never told me that 1 beer was 2 many 'cause then 10 wouldn't be enough.:) In a Corvette now ... & root beer is my drink of choice-:p
Wow! Thanks for the praise ... But really I'm just like you - Picking up tips on "how-to" .. then happy to spread the wealth (of knowledge) so we can keep some of the wealth (cash) in our pockets. :-}) Yes, lots of fix-it tips. I'll try to compile 'em in a short vid soon. Mean time, if you're doin' a project or have a question 'bout something ... chances are I've done it, know something about it, or know where to get the skinny. Just ask.
so... you need to give "shock therapy" to each cell that reads 0.00 or -0.00? what about 0.05? Any estimate or experience on how much more life this process can give to a battery?
Any cell that has a positive charge shouldn't need shocked. It's the ones that have reversed giving you the trouble. Yes, each cell at 0 or -0. The 0.05 is weird. Do you use a digital meter? It may need to be zeroed out or re-calibrated. Shocking one that low would not harm it, so if it gives you trouble charging, zap it. Extra life varies. I've seen them go 20 more recharges & some only a few. Age, wear, abuse, (that would be me. I push tools to the limit) etc are factors. Hope this helps!
Do you have to disasemble the battery? I've seen videos of people just hooking a welder to the assembled battery and reviving it with short bursts. Why take the battery a part?
you take it apart to finds the cells that have reversed polarity and need the shock. Never heard them say that welder jolt corrects a cell within the pack. But, with the amps they are pushing through.. it might. It looks like a faster way with less mechanical prep. But good cells get hit with that current, too. that would weaken, shorten lifespan and make it easier to reverse their polarity. Not to mention battery boom-booms are more likely and I like my 10 digits. Seems more harm than good.
The best way i have found is just to get a normal car battery and just jolt it for 1-5 seconds and then repeat about 1-15 times then my battery (1300mah) took a charge of 1500 mah and climbing but shut it down and is working beautiful and this guy helped me to do it .THANKS
Will this work on smaller volt batteries? I have old airsoft gun batteries @ 7.5 volts, they are little batteries linked together like the drill batteries but there are only 5.
The same process. Your small batteries (cells) are 1.5v each (1.5v x 5 = 7.5v) AA or AAA size. Use a meter-check each for voltage; if 0 then shock that cell with a 12v DC source for a second or two. Check again for voltage. If they come back at .75 to 1.5 volts charge em up and happy hunting! If no volts; nothing can be done, make the funeral arrangements ... RIP. I'll be posting a vid on making a new battery pack soon. Good luck on your music, Brother!
At first old 12V car battery (put it in the carport and used real long wires-just in case)
Then found a Makita 12V battery and charger at Goodwill for $2. Got to be a pain 'cause it drained pretty quick.
Now I use a 120V AC to 12V DC adapter - 750 mA..found at Goodwill-$1..the type you use to power small electronics like radios. Just had to put a 1 amp fuse on the DC side. The kind of fuse setup like after market car stereos-again just in case. I have a schematic if you want. Cheers
why does this happen to the battery packs in the first place?
fakeusa 2 weeks ago
why do people BLOCK questioning viewers and why does youtube allow it?
ledaril 2 weeks ago
Great video sir, i've tried it on some DeWalt batteries and it works. However i colud not get the "shock therapy" to work on all the sub-c cells even though i tried it a few times. Is there a work-around for that problem or does those batteries need to be replaced?
nordga9 3 weeks ago
@nordga9 Those are beyond help, I'm afraid. So, if you are going to replace them - replace ALL of them. No sense adding new cells to work along side old ones.
Check out my video: youtube.com/watch?v=ig2fbI2jejM
Gives you the step by step. Cool?
phxexaminer 3 weeks ago
THANK YOU. Went to hang drapes---dead nicad packs for 14.4V Craftsman drill; wavered from buying just one pack, to a whole new set up and this fix...The packs will at least take a charge, now!!! We'll see...if they last for a couple jobs this'll be great. I did like the video. car battery, voltmeter leads, goggles, and Volia!
Thanx again...
LooeyT1 1 month ago
NICE VIDEO ! THANKS.. some are shocking golf cart (also used in electric cars) with something either 1. High volts , low amps (ie 2 x higher volts such 24 volts ) for 12 v battery (lead acid type) for 12 - 24 hrs or 2. Super high amps at normal voltage (IE 200amps for short few seconds at 12 v) ... "they " say it works. goto doublebatterylife come has youtube videos (3 separate videos) showing how our patented USA circuit is getting double running time out of alkaline batteries. .
InventPeace1 2 months ago
fubar lol
hockeylover1990 2 months ago
1:29 LOL Marvin, the Martian :)
Naproxenum 3 months ago
Defribs?
ceffle 3 months ago
I'm going to buy 4 more sub-c cells and re-assemble it. That should
work, right? Do you have any ideas on how to re-attach the tabs to the
sub-c's? I'm not sure if soldering will work.
MrMaypole14 5 months ago
@MrMaypole14 Better off buying all new ones. The whole pack. Because the older cells will fail long before the new ones. Then, you'll be in the same place, again.
Watch: "Ni-CD battery rebuild and upgrade Part1" And "Part 2"
I show you how to solder together the cells to make your new pack.
phxexaminer 5 months ago
@MrMaypole14 If you go to E-Pay you will find numerous vendors that sell the sub-c batteries with the 'tabs' already soldered on. You only have to solder the wires together. Much safer than soldering on the battery. I bought 15 sub-c batteries from a nice man in China, delivered to Canada for $1.50 each. So for $22.50 I rebuilt the battery pack in my 18 volt drill. And they were 2400 MaH. Most battery packs are 1800 MaH at the best.
bunsomatic 3 months ago
I'm going to buy 4 more sub-c cells and re-assemble it. That should
work, right? Do you have any ideas on how to re-attach the tabs to the
sub-c's? I'm not sure if soldering will work.
MrMaypole14 5 months ago
Yes, I get it, sort of.... I'll bet that goes over most peoplle's heads .
I drew a diagram for re-assembly of mine, disassembled it mostly, tested each of the 10 cells, and came up with 4 of them having 0.000V. continued>>
MrMaypole14 5 months ago
scuze me.. i haz a question furr ya too..
when it comes to purrrchasing replacement batteries .. furr a laptop as an example.. it appears that i have a 3 choice option after window shopping.. (funny, i was looking at batteries, not glass LOL).. 1)... low quality lower price regardless of brand name.. 2).. hi quality, top priced, select manufacturers.. 3)... lo quality with high price... i was once told it comes down to the purity of the chemistry used to make the cell.. can u verify?
somewhereone 5 months ago
@somewhereone You missed two: High quality, lower price than retail. Or, refurbished, lower price than retail. I found a refurbished for my thinkpad at 1/2 the cost of new retail one. Still working fine for the last 2 years.
phxexaminer 5 months ago
9-13-11 I'm sitting here with a bad 12V DeWalt battery in front of me, and about to dig in. I've been thinking of replacing the individual bad cells in this batt for quite some time, but have never seen the "defibrillator jump method" you and others sre showing. Also, I have never heard of the polarity reversing.?! Well people do it now, why not batteries? I'd appreciate it if you could briefly explain WHY or HOW it reverses.?? Thanks!
MrMaypole14 5 months ago
@MrMaypole14 Make sense? And the "defibrillator jump method" as you so aptly call it, provides a jolt to break up the large crystal formations back into smaller ones. The reason is may only give you a few more charges, or 50 more is how weak the crystals are. Good strong ones will resist clumping up again for a while, weak ones will not.
Does that help, Bro?
phxexaminer 5 months ago
@MrMaypole14 The crystalline structure inside is initially many tiny ones. Lots of sides to hold a polarized charge. As it's used and charged, the crystals attract each other forming larger ones, weakening the potential to carry a bigger charge. Eventually the get so weak they act as if THEY are just one of the crystals of the battery next to it. So, they become another positive to the positive pole on one side, and a negative to the negative pole on the other. Essentially, flipping
phxexaminer 5 months ago
Thank you for a good video!!! woks good.
Thank you
garan111 5 months ago
Ild just have to buy a new fresh battery pack unless I was in an pinch
WaterfrontBoss 6 months ago
THANK YOU.... SO MUCH for sharing this knowledge.
DXTBOW 6 months ago
uhhh
Dirtybeerguy 8 months ago
Thank you for the reply dude... as for your comment about 'UNFOLDING' them... if you'll kindly forward an e-mail address to my inbox, i'll send you a photo showing you how that appears to be a right impossibility! lol Seriously... it's terminals are boxed in, on and around the upper plastic locator for when the grey cover is on / off (depending stage of fitting).
Not much fun :-(
Thanks for the reply and hope to hear from you soon :-)
dx69suckit 10 months ago
P.S. Just removed the 4 torx screws holding the casing together on my battery, removed the covering and to say it's a mess to strip down and disconnect is putting it politely! Battery is this - Makita 18V 2.6Ah Ni-MH Battery - 1834 - if you or anyone else can tell me a way to get to all the cells then please... i'm all ears! Thanks in advance :D
dx69suckit 10 months ago
@dx69suckit You do not need to disconnect the cells! "Unfold" them just enough to put the meter's leads to the ends of one cell at a time. Mark all the bad ones. Then go back and zap 'em one at a time and bundle it all back into the casing. Make sense?
phxexaminer 10 months ago
hiya dude! great 'how to' you have here... just got hold of a Makita 18v cordless with 2 batteries, both dead (seemingly) and i'd just like to ask two small questions if i may?
1. With it being 18v, do you only need the 2 seconds when jumping a cell?
2. How long does this last for? I mean once jumped, do they tend to die again relatively soon or...? May as well ask how many times you can jump them after asking that as well hadn't i! lol
Thanks in advance and keep up the good info :-)
dx69suckit 10 months ago
@dx69suckit If the cell is reading zero or negative volts, zap it 1 - 3 seconds with 12volt DC. Remember, each cell is only 1.2 volts.
Life expectancy: 1 to 20 or more charges. Too many variables to be specific. If you correct the polarity of all the bad cells, then charge it right away ... use it on .. something. Do not store it with a full charge or it won't last long at all. Then, if you charge it to use it, and put it away with 1/4 of so umph left, it will last longer. Do not store in heat!
phxexaminer 10 months ago
hi mate, finally got into the pack and think this one is going to be a bit more than i can sort. the board looks to be rusted up on the points and the batteries are of a size i dont recognise, they look like AA types but are slightly wider and alot taller! definatly not c or d's! :-(
johnsbegood 10 months ago
That's brill mate. I'll give it a bash once ive got myself a tamperproof torx screwdriver to get into the dam thing. Does it matter if my car battery is 13-14v as thats what I was goin to use to zap the duff cells? Also you use the term gauge in wires? I'm a Brit and we use mm cable size over here. 2.5mm should sort it though I guess. That's what we use to wire in house plug sockets for 13amp sockets. Thanks for getting back so quick. Paul
johnsbegood 10 months ago
@johnsbegood !3 - 14v is fine. Those tamper-proof bits we call security bits over here. And 2.5 sounds just about right. Seems like you've got it sorted, my friend. Let me know how it went. And, good luck! ... Mark
phxexaminer 10 months ago
Hi mate. Have a makita 24v ni-mh 3.3ah battery that's not accepting charge no longer. Do I just follow your technique of zapping the duff battery with it rated voltage? Or would I need to do something different?? Many thanks. Paul
johnsbegood 10 months ago
@johnsbegood Yes, you zap each bad cell with 12v DC for 1 to 3 seconds, then check its voltage. Should be 1.2 volts. Then put it back together and charge it. But, use it a bit after its charged. Storing a fully charged battery is one of the things that leads to its failure. Thanks for the comments, Paul!
phxexaminer 10 months ago
Hi Mark.
Instead of buying test leads, do you think I can just use to some 12g wires?
I can't find the test leads at Home Depot.
royroyboxing 10 months ago
@royroyboxing Yeah, sure. But doesn't your meter have its own test leads? Anyway, as to type of wire for a substitute; 12 gauge stranded. Only because of the potential heat that can be generated. That's what stranded is for, to dissipate heat.
Cool?
phxexaminer 10 months ago
@phxexaminer
yeah, it does have it's own test leads.
But the diameter of the terminal side (the side that isn't used to test) is too big even for a 12g wire, which is the biggest size wire I have.
So I'm just going to use the battery cable and 12g stranded.
Thanks a lot Mark. I'll be seeing you on youtube.
royroyboxing 10 months ago
@royroyboxing Yeah, I know it is made for the ends that spring out around their circumference to grip inside the hole. Harder for them to pop out that way. You can use that 12g though - Just take another piece of wire, or even paper clip and use it as a shim and put both together into the hole. Just keep bending the clip till it's big enough to fit it and the wire snug. Ya think? Good luck, my Brother! And, thanks for the comment!
phxexaminer 10 months ago
Comment removed
royroyboxing 10 months ago
Well, I cracked open the sealed (no screws) 12 volt batteries and followed your instructions. My batteries work great and are glueing as we speak. Thanks alot. I would like to rebuild my other 12 volt batteries and 9.6 but they use shorter batteries than the sub-c I ordered. I'm not sure what battteries will fit. Thanks again.
MRDUBLD1 11 months ago
Well, I cracked open the sealed (no screws) 12 volt batteries and followed your instructions. My batteries work great and are glueing as we speak. Thanks alot. I would like to rebuild my other 12 volt batteries and 9.6 but they use shorter batteries than the sub-c I ordered. I'm not sure what battteries will fit. Thanks again.
MRDUBLD1 11 months ago
@MRDUBLD1 Glad it worked! Better than buying new ones, eh? As to the shorter batteries. Here's a chart > World Wide Web(dot)powerstream(dot)com/Size.htm If they are the same diameter (23 mm) then they are in the Sub C family. My guess is you have the "4/5 sub C" size. (Length = 34 mm). Regular sub C's are 43 mm. But check the your battery measurement against the charts specs to be sure you get the right ones. Cheers, Bro ... And thank you for the comments!
phxexaminer 11 months ago
This worked great! I hate throwing things away, and this was the perfect solution. Thanks!
craigieb 11 months ago
@craigieb You're welcome, my friend! Thanks for the positive comment!
phxexaminer 11 months ago
what amp dc input do u use to shock the battery. how about the trickel charge on a battery car charger. will that work. how many amps max is the shock at 12volts
TOPAGENT 1 year ago
@TOPAGENT You mean dc output. It either from a 12v battery or a transformer. I have several "wall warts" that put out 12v DC and the one that works best is 2000 mA because I only have to zap it one second. At minimum you need 12vDC-200mA and three second zap. But, you may need to zap it more than once. Maybe several times even, to get it to correct the polarity. And, that runs the risk of overheating the cell ... and then in turn ... BOOM! That was your sub C cell making like a firecracker.
phxexaminer 1 year ago
I was about to buy 2 battery packs for my dewalt which hasn't had much action for the last few years and as a result both batteries seemed to be fubar :D. I'm happy I did a quick search on youtube because you've just saved me 100 bucks!.
Cheers!!
kromanic 1 year ago
@kromanic Right On! And that, folks, is the very reason I posted these vids. To help ya all save some dough and feel good about fixin' it yourself. Thank for the comment kromanic!
phxexaminer 1 year ago
it is actually fucked up beyond all recignition
trixytrix98 1 year ago
@trixytrix98 That's "Recognition". I know, but this is a 'G' rated tube.
phxexaminer 1 year ago
@trixytrix98 I'm sure it could be "Fouled Up Beyond All Recognition" for a more polite version. ;-)
wordreet 1 year ago
hey man nice vid!!! but i have a problem i found a nicd battery from my ez-starter
but it have been unchareged for 2 years or so and it have leaked some stuff out and its a bit coroded but it does work but not very well and it does take a charge.... do ii have to do this or do i have to weld it... you know....
tnx=D
bye
soverato3 1 year ago
@soverato3 If it has leaked DO NOT DO THIS FIX ! This fix is for cells that are still sealed and not corroded! Your best bet is to find the size of your cells (C, sub C, etc.), buy replacements and then solder them together to make a new powerpak. See my other vid here "Ni-Cd Battery Rebuild and Upgrade" to see how its done.
phxexaminer 1 year ago
Thanks for putting this up. it works well, but I have a question. I can zap bad cells and then get a battery to charge as much as 21.5v, but in a day or two, simply sitting on the shelf, it will drain to 15 or 16 volts. What causes this "voltage drain"?
Borregoinla 1 year ago
@Borregoinla Here's how it works: There are small crystals inherent within a good Ni-Cd cell. That is what 'holds' the charge. As it is used and recharged the crystals combine and become larger - meaning now have less surface area than many small ones, make sense so far? So when we zap it, that breaks up those larger crystals - they do not return to original, initial state but enough to hold a charge again. Continued ...
phxexaminer 1 year ago
@Borregoinla Overcharging is bad. And storing with at full or overcharged voltage tends to make the crystals combine, or 'grow' again. Store them with a low charge, but not dead. You'll find this will make the 'fix' last longer and not go bad as soon. Also, store in cool dry place. Heat, any source - i.e. direct sunlight, summer temperatures, etc is an enemy to your cells. Make sense, Bro? Thanks for the question!
phxexaminer 1 year ago
This works, but I have a question. I can get a battery to charge as much as 21.5v, but in a day or two, simply sitting on the shelf, it will drain to 15 or 16 volts. What causes this "voltage drain"?
Borregoinla 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
FUCKED UP BEYOND ALL RECOGNITION :D
mehfuckit 1 year ago
Looks good
nicadfix 1 year ago
Worked a treat, thank you.. :)
darrendarren68 1 year ago
I will have to try this on an old 18V coleman drill battery. I ended up modding the other one into a 12V adaptor like thing that enables me to run my drill off a 12V car lighter socket. I use a 12V car jumpstarter with a power socket to hook up the drill. I have plenty of wall warts around , I think I have a 12VDC 1000mA (1 amp) one that I can try this with. can it be a switching type wart or a standard transformer wart.
coondogtheman1234 1 year ago
Give the man a medal !! Just revived 1x12v & 1x14.4v dewalt batt packs, will try the other 2 tomorrow. If you're around my way you're due a few beers, thanks
wa51yjo 1 year ago
@wa51yjo do they last more than a couple charges tho?
brownlog86 1 year ago
@brownlog86 Depends on a lot of things; condition, age, even the charger as some have a 'cut-off' when done, some don't.
I had a few that lasted an extra month or so - maybe 5 or 6 charges. Then there was the one that I had to keep zapping - after two times of taking it apart I just said screw it and rebuilt it with new cells.
phxexaminer 1 year ago
Instead of a 12v car battery or 2 6v lanterns, could you use a 12v wall wart? Or won't that offer enough amperage?
Dem0D1ck 1 year ago
@Dem0D1ck Yes, you can. That's what I currently use. 12vDC - 1000mAh transformer (Wall Wart). For safety I installed an in-line, 1.5amp, automotive fuse (wired in the positive side). It works great! Sometimes it takes a couple of 'zaps' to correct the polarity of a particularly bad cell, but it gets it done. Thanks for the comment!
phxexaminer 1 year ago
@phxexaminer Wasn't sure if you were using a 12 volt car battery. Thanks, appreciate the info. Have a Skil 12V battery pack that I can try this on, if it works it'll save me 40+ bucks for a new battery. Great idea!
Dem0D1ck 1 year ago
@Dem0D1ck Right on, Brother! That's what it's all about - saving dough with work-arounds. Cheers! And thanks for the positive comments!
phxexaminer 1 year ago
I have done this to all my batteries but they dont last very long as they would a new battery.I`m now looking to replace the old cells with new ones,how do we fix the metal strap down to the cells if we dont have access to a spot welder?Also I`ve found a supplier for the "c" type rechargeable cells but the cells have a higher (mah) rating,does this matter also?
spongebobstoenail 1 year ago 2
@spongebobstoenail See my other two part series: "Ni-CD battery rebuild and upgrade". I use a soldering tool to make the connection. You don't need a spot welder. As to the higher mAh; A higher rating is actually desirable. Your power pack will last longer then the original. There is a limit the charger will handle, though. 40/forty percent higher than the original is as high an upgrade you should go. Hope this helps!
phxexaminer 1 year ago
@spongebobstoenail you can try soldering but i would just be careful to try to avoid heating the batteries up too much with it and as for the higher mAh theres no reason that they should cause problems just be careful how much you increase for example if you had a 1.8 Ah battery pack and you end up making a 3 Ah pack thats too big 30 to 40% higher mAh should be right about where youd wanna stay i dont know the details on your batteries but im sure you can do the math on your own
reap62 1 year ago
@reap62 Thanks Bro!
@spongebobstoenail - Yep, what he said.
In addition; Put the cells in fridge about an hour. That'll give you more safety margin when soldering the ends. Cheers!
phxexaminer 1 year ago
@spongebobstoenail I try to peel the strip off as neatly as possible, dremel the burrs away, drill a small hole in the strip so the solder can penetrate the area.
thestrugglevideo 1 year ago
I'm going to Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware and any other place with a door that has batteries for recycle tomorrow and ask "can I go through your recycling center and get the batteries left for recycle?" I'll be sure and ask a manager first, then take them home and fix them FOR MY PERSONAL USE (if they will let me have any).
I'll save some money and THANKS FOR THE TIP!!
maddog380 1 year ago
Let me see if I got you right "doggy": You buy a battery with the sole intent to change the good batteries for the bad ones in your's. So you put your bad one's in, take it back and LIE by telling the retailer "that the battery would not hold a charge" and get your money back ......that's STEALING no matter how you look at it "puppy dog"!! End of story!!
maddog380 1 year ago 2
@maddog380 Who the hell said I did that? Oh-I see now. You read a comment on here from someone named ihdieselman.
Look closely -You'll see that I NEVER said that, houndDoggy I do not condone or support anything unlawful or immoral. What I did say "You can go to a recycling center (Commonly in the same store you get your power tools; Home Depot, etc) and find batteries left for recycle. Ask a manager first, then take them home and fix them FOR PERSONAL USE." END OF STORY, DOGGY DO-DO!
phxexaminer 1 year ago
To @phxexaminer: What your doing is being a thief and a liar! This is the most dishonest thing you could ever do and people like you is what makes prices go up! Thanks for screwing all of the honest people out here trying to do what is right!!!
maddog380 1 year ago
@maddog380 A thief? What have I stolen? Nothing. Liar? This fix works-see all the positive feedback below. Prices go up? Um. That's why we fix things ourselves. To keep our costs down. An economist, you are not mad bad puppy dog. Price is based on supply. But now it's from Obama-nation's inflation. You do what is right? By buying replacement at retail price? Get a clue: They are OVERPRICED, for one. And your purchase does nothing for the USA economy. Check the tag, doggy. They're made in China.
phxexaminer 1 year ago 2
Comment removed
maddog380 1 year ago
can i just zap the whole battery pack with the 12 volts? the battery pack reads at 0. or does "zapping" only work on single batteries?
upgw 1 year ago
@upgw Yeah, I wish it would work that way, Bro. But, it doesn't. You'll need to check each one, then zap the bad ones to correct their polarity. A zero reading doesn't mean they are all bad collectively. There still may be, and most probably are, a few that are not reversed.
Good luck!
phxexaminer 1 year ago
1:09 Fobar F8@@&&'; up beyond all recongition
Films4You 1 year ago
@Films4You Right on, Bro. No one wants to be FUBAR !!
phxexaminer 1 year ago
This will and does work but you will have to do all of the batteries or you will have the same trouble in about 2 charges. I tried it and that's what happened to me.
So if your going to go to all of this time and trouble just get the volt and amp of the battery Go on Ebay and buy the next higher amp batteries or the same apm and volt.. Make you a diagram of how there put together then un-solder each battery, re-solder the new ones, put the battery pack together and charge for the battery.
maddog380 1 year ago 3
The jackass is the person who would willingly take something that they have no right to. A person that buys a new drill for no purpose other than switching thier old batteries with the new ones in the drill kit is a thief. Plain and simple. That is something that only a person that has no moral compass would be proud of.
ihdieselman 1 year ago 2
Sweet, worked for me! Saved me 70 bucks and helped the environment out a little, made my day bro. Thanks!
alexautom8s 1 year ago
thank you.. ill be trying this with a bunch of dead batteries i have lying around my apartment lol! thanks super simple
otek42o 1 year ago
Holy Crap!!! It works!!! I had 3 dead batteries for my Dewalt 18v that all work great now. Took me less than 20 minutes. Thanks!
lordpeekaboo 1 year ago
This is all well and good, but no explanation is being given here as to what is happening electrically or chemically.
To be more realistic about the scope of this cure, let 's first explore why NiMH / NiCad cells fail. One common cause is that conductive whiskers form chemically through the electrolyte between the plates. This causes one or more cells to become much less charged than the rest in the series.
I'll continue
g7txu 1 year ago
This is all well and good, but no explanation is being given here as to what is happening electrically or chemically.
To be more realistic about the scope of this cure, let 's first explore why NiMH / NiCad cells fail. One common cause is that conductive whiskers form chemically through the electrolyte between the plates. This causes one or more cells to become much less charged than the rest in the series.
I'll continue
g7txu 1 year ago
@g7txu Please do. Continue. To you have a preventative measure we can employ to make them charge equally?
phxexaminer 1 year ago
@phxexaminer One useful piece of advice would be to give battery packs a regular cycling say every two months if not regularly in use. They also benefit from being stored at low temperatures.
g7txu 1 year ago
@phxexaminer One useful piece of advice would be to give battery packs a regular cycling say every two months if not regularly in use. They also benefit from being stored at low temperatures. The quality of the cells used plays a huge part too. I have come across test equipment with the original NiCad cells still installed which have been working since the 1960's using industrial grade rather than consumer grade cells.
g7txu 1 year ago
@phxexaminer From my knowledge of RC car racing over about 20 years, with the sub C cells, the Nimh should never be completely discharged. As soon as the drill starts to loose power, stick a fresh battery pack in it, and if the used pack is warm, don't charge it till it's cold again. Nicads are much more tolerant of abuse and can be discharged totally before recharging, and don't mind a little warmth either. But the best way with any battery pack is to use a good quality peak sensing charger.
wordreet 1 year ago
@wordreet What g7txu was on about is the fact that this 2 second flash method that you have described, appears to break down those 'whiskers' that build up and can short the cell right through. And the theory is that the flash method won't work properly on a completely flat cell.
All batteries benefit from being discharged 'correctly' but that is obviously not possible for a working guy that needs to finish a job, so sometimes you will just have to put up with buying new and extra battery packs.
wordreet 1 year ago
seems to work,thanks, this is a real good trick to know ,worth remembering
crazygeorgelincoln 1 year ago
How do, can i use a 12volt 7Ah batt as the power source? its for a 12volt 2Ah De Walt batt.
sparkyvolts 1 year ago
Yo bro, does it matter what size Ah power source you use? Ive got plenty of 12 volt 7Ah Batt's would this do the trick?
sparkyvolts 1 year ago
@sparkyvolts First, question: Is it 7Ah? (7000 mA?) Then yes, absolutely. Get them fully charged first.
I guess you'll have to rig a way to hook your wires to the source battery. Alligator clips. Or a thick copper wire (10 gauge) and pound the end flat then "shim" it into the battery's terminal. One battery should hold enough to zap all 10 of your cells on the 12volt De Walt (if needed). Good luck, Brother!
phxexaminer 1 year ago
Cool if you've got time. My fix is easier... buy a new battery ;)
SydeshowMO 1 year ago
@SydeshowMO I've always said everything depends on what you have more of; time or money.
phxexaminer 1 year ago
@phxexaminer Why would you call me a Jackass you idiot! I have an easier and cheaper fix. Buy a new drill or battery, swap old and new batteries and return. Its also alot faster than this dickhead maneuver!
SydeshowMO 1 year ago
@SydeshowMO I didn't. A commenter did.
But, if you can't see the difference, or at least direct your reply to them and not me ... Then you have CERTAINLY revealed your level of intelligence. So, you're right! You shouldn't attempt this. Much too complicated for you to comprehend.
Buying new is easier ... not cheaper. And this 'maneuver' works. As evidenced by every single commenter .... Except, of course, you. Still, thank you for your comment.
phxexaminer 1 year ago
@SydeshowMO for 80$? fakk that if your a dumb arse and cant do this than ya spend your money you jack arse
otek42o 1 year ago
I dont have any old car batteries. I was wondering if i can use one of those car battery chargers for jump starting your car? I have one of those with the built in light, power inverter, jumper cables etc. What advice do you have?
yimmer1 1 year ago
@yimmer1 Yeah, you can ... but the amp output is gonna be high. Unless it is a maintenance charger. Give your dead cell a 1 second zap, then check for voltage. If no joy - go 2 seconds. check again. Just always be aware of how hot the cell gets. If it's really hot, or worse, too hot to touch and you still have no positive voltage - cool it off (See freezer method in below comments). Then, zap it again. And, you especially should wear protection for your face, hands and arms. Okay, Brother?
phxexaminer 1 year ago
hey thanks very instructive but can i use a pc power supply as my 12V source for fixing/zapping a dewalt dw9116 18v battery....pls help!
yaripapo 1 year ago
@yaripapo Yes. Use a 12volt DC transformer (Charger cord) with a high mA. Mine has 1500 mA - found it at goodwill for a buck. If you can only get your hands on a lower mA, use it. Zap the cell, check for voltage. If no joy, zap it again. You can do this several times but, CAUTION !! Before re-zapping check if the cell is getting warm. If, yes - let it cool down first (Or, I pop 'em in an open Tupperware container, put it in the freezer for 2 minutes only and you're good to go for more zappin'!
phxexaminer 1 year ago
Ive just done this with a Black and decker 18v battery, and it worked very well, all cells are now charging!
ScottieNiven 1 year ago
hello
for a 24v battery
what kind of power source I should use?
thanks!!
halvarosky 1 year ago
@halvarosky 24 volts DC? Thats a big power pack. But it wouldn't matter if it was 120 volts DC - you still only zap one 1.2 volt cell at a time with a 12volt DC power source. Yours has 20 of the 1.2 volt cells. (Or should.) Who is the manufacturer?
phxexaminer 1 year ago
@phxexaminer Hi, it´s a Makita´s hammer-drill battery NiMH 24v 2Amp I don´t know how many cells there are inside...I try to be sure before opennig it because it doesn´t have normal screws and I will should to broke it a little...anyway if I found 10 cells inside does it means that the voltage of each one is 24/10=2,4v then it will work with a 12v DC power source?
thanks!
halvarosky 1 year ago
@halvarosky Hey - You'll find 20 cells. 1.2 volts each. Standard for most power tools. 'Cause they're cheaper than 'custom' cells and they buy cells in bulk - thousands at a time. For the special screws - go to a good tool store or automotive store and get a set of "specialty' bits. Also called "Security" bits. (5 to 10 US Dollars) It has most bits for tamper resistant heads, like those Torx screws with the post inside where the bit goes. Is that cool?
phxexaminer 1 year ago
@phxexaminer yeah! i´ve got the secutiry bit´s and I´ve opened the battery but now i have mesured the voltage in each cell (you were right there are 20 of them) and i haven´t found the bad ones... now what sould i do? i should shock them all?
Before open the battery i´ve made a half charge, should I charge the battery before or after open it?
thanks!!
halvarosky 1 year ago
@halvarosky Voltage all (+) above zero? ONLY shock if polarity reversed. Before putting together, add up all voltage from cells. Check the voltage at terminals + and - of the power pack. Does it = the total you got? If no - any components in the wiring of power pack? Isolate (Remove from circuit) and check for open (fusible link, or thermistor) both should be closed. If okay, put together - use pencil eraser & rub hard on terminals to clean them. Then charge.again.
phxexaminer 1 year ago
@halvarosky 20 x 1.2volt 4/3a batteries
dannybruff 1 year ago
Just wanted to say "Thanks a MILLION"! I zapped my 18v Ridgid batteries using the 12v Impact tool battery and it worked like a CHAMP! I didn't/couldn't even zap all the bad cells, there were 2 or 3 I couldn't get to. Zapped what I could, all of which showed 0 on my $3 multimeter from Harbor Freight, used some old wire laying around, and whammo, 20 minutes later, saved big money! IT DOES WORK! Was showing 2.4 volts for the pack, now 20volts after a charge! Thanks so much for posting! A++++
ggrays1999 1 year ago
Hi i looked under the bottom label no luck.no screws anywhere .it's a makita 2.6ah ni-mh maybe its glued together.thanks for the help
roselle125 1 year ago
@roselle125 Hey, check to see if there are any seams that can be pried apart with a thin screw driver blade. Obviously if it isn't charging there's nothing to lose if you break the case. But try to save any pieces. That's why Richard Gelb,invented Super-Glue! ( He worked for a Cleveland, Ohio chemical company called Permatex). Check the top (tower) it looks like a seam goes right round it like a 'cap'. Check the main seam, too. Sometimes there are hidden locking tabs inside at the seam. okay?
phxexaminer 1 year ago
HI;I have a makita 14.4 metal hydride battery that wont take a charge how do i open the case to access the batteries,their are no screws on the case.thank you .
roselle125 1 year ago
@roselle125 They like to hide the screw holes. Take a pencil eraser (same width as a #2 Phillips screwdriver) and push the eraser down along the labels. You'll find the label will depress where the screw holes are. Also, there may be 'knock-outs' or plugs. Knock-outs are small disc-like sections of the same color that are flush with the surface. Plugs are rubber or vinyl and look as "feet' protruding out slightly so the unit sits on them instead of sitting flat on the casing. Let me know, okay?
phxexaminer 1 year ago
Just wanted to say "Thanks a MILLION"! I zapped my 18v Ridgid batteries using the 12v Impact tool battery and it worked like a CHAMP! I didn't/couldn't even zap all the bad cells, there were 2 or 3 I couldn't get to. Zapped what I could, all of which showed 0 on my $3 multimeter from Harbor Freight, used some old wire laying around, and whammo, 20 minutes later, saved big money! IT DOES WORK! Was showing 2.4 volts for the pack, now 20volts after a charge! Thanks so much for posting! A++++
ggrays1999 1 year ago
Kind Sir, thank you for this tutorial. I found 2 B&D 18 volt battery packs like I use on my cordless drill at the local trash drop off point. Brought them home and applied your method to them. Before I did I charged them for a couple hours. One read 4.8 volts, the other read 0 volts. After using your method, charged again for 1 hour, both were reading 20.5 volts. Thank you again, $70 worth of batteries for $0............Scott
thegunit1400 1 year ago
@thegunit1400 Now that's what I call enterprising! I don't care what they say about you, you're a smart guy, Scott! (Just kidding with you Bro) But not about the smart bit, that was a brilliant idea. Got me thinking ........ there's a drop off right at the corner .... humm .....
phxexaminer 1 year ago
Good job, just went into my workshop and tried this.........it works......thanks fella!
Tattoomart1 1 year ago
@Tattoomart1 Sure thing, Brother! - Cheers!
phxexaminer 1 year ago
Hey like the video. I did everything up to the point were you zap each battery that was bad. What I found funny was that each battery that gave me a reading of 0, did not give me a negative symbol when I reversed the tester leads. But I zapped them. But I still didn't get a volt reading afterward. Still zero. I have a 4 year old ridgid drill. Maybe I have to charge it to see results. Can you give me a little input.
nelly03g 1 year ago
@nelly03g A zero reading and a negative reading means the same; polarity reversal. First, inspect the cell - is it damaged? (Partially crushed, leaking, etc)
If OK:
Try 'zapping' them again, then test. If no joy, zap again. (Also, try longer zaps - 3 seconds each). Once you DO get voltage readings you MUST assemble it and charge it immediately or it will revert back to it's reversed state.
Hope this helps! Let me know if it doesn't or you need more input. Good Luck, Bro!
phxexaminer 1 year ago
@phxexaminer Thanks,I was afraid to zap them again after I didnt get a volt reading the first time. But the cells look fine. I shall try again.
nelly03g 1 year ago
Thanks for the Info.....It worked great on all three of my Dewalt 18 Volt XR2's
Boltacti0n 1 year ago
Sorry, just listened again, yes you can.
FifasNo7 1 year ago
Hi there, this is a great vid, thanks, but can you do this to a Ni-mh battery or is it gonna toast me?
FifasNo7 1 year ago
Just wanted to say thanks for the Tip, I was a little skeptical at 1st with all the BS hoax videos on here, but i had a Dewalt 12v drill that was 10 yrs old and only showed 3.5 volts so I figured i didn't have anything to lose so I gave it a shot. All I used was a 6amp 12volt battery charger to do the Zapping and all 6 cells that showed 0 volts came up to over 1.35 volts the other 3 were the only ones good to start.... now pack is like new and I saved 50 bucks for a new one,,,
Thanks again
rusmokin 1 year ago
@rusmokin - Cool! Yep, an auto battery charger is a perfect power source. You're right about the BS on Ytube. I did try to show everything I did to get the results claimed. But, a video hacker could probably splice and dice something believable as well. Maybe if they put all that time and energy towards something good we'd live in a better place, huh?
Anyway, glad it worked out for you, Brother. Cheers!
phxexaminer 1 year ago
Great tip, easy and to the point! Thanks a bunch! Now if I could only fix all my cell phone battery packs that have gone dead! Many thanks for taking the time to do this and upload!
latheworks 1 year ago
@latheworks Glad you're getting some practical use out of it!
Good luck on the cell phone ones though! It's a conspiracy , I tell ya. They have the tech to produce ones that would go weeks without a charge, and years without replacing. I'd pay more for that! But, they don't want your 20 or 50 or 100 bucks for that one battery, they want you to replace, replace ... Job security, I'm thinkin'. Hehe
phxexaminer 1 year ago
i like your humor :) great video... thanks
ChronoX4 1 year ago
Sure thing bro. I'll tell ya something I learned long ago. "Anyone who knows something about anything, can teach that thing to anyone. And if you tell it with humor, they'll remember everything learned." - From my favorite teacher, my Dad.
Into Z-cars Huh? Had an '81 turbo, 1st year they made 'em. Loved it. Just 1 year then totaled it. Mr. Beer's fault. He never told me that 1 beer was 2 many 'cause then 10 wouldn't be enough.:) In a Corvette now ... & root beer is my drink of choice-:p
phxexaminer 1 year ago
How can I recharge a 7.2 volt makita battery?
lblmer 1 year ago
@lblmer Watch the video. You have the same 1.2 volt cells (6 of them) in your 7.2 volt pack.
Good luck!
phxexaminer 1 year ago
Wow! Thanks for the praise ... But really I'm just like you - Picking up tips on "how-to" .. then happy to spread the wealth (of knowledge) so we can keep some of the wealth (cash) in our pockets. :-}) Yes, lots of fix-it tips. I'll try to compile 'em in a short vid soon. Mean time, if you're doin' a project or have a question 'bout something ... chances are I've done it, know something about it, or know where to get the skinny. Just ask.
phxexaminer 1 year ago
so... you need to give "shock therapy" to each cell that reads 0.00 or -0.00? what about 0.05? Any estimate or experience on how much more life this process can give to a battery?
TheJonathanbrooke 1 year ago
Any cell that has a positive charge shouldn't need shocked. It's the ones that have reversed giving you the trouble. Yes, each cell at 0 or -0. The 0.05 is weird. Do you use a digital meter? It may need to be zeroed out or re-calibrated. Shocking one that low would not harm it, so if it gives you trouble charging, zap it. Extra life varies. I've seen them go 20 more recharges & some only a few. Age, wear, abuse, (that would be me. I push tools to the limit) etc are factors. Hope this helps!
phxexaminer 1 year ago
Amazing. I just did this to me 12V battery for my Skil set. I had everything but the 6V batteries. The Shack had them on sale for $3.
jdturner1 2 years ago
Do you have to disasemble the battery? I've seen videos of people just hooking a welder to the assembled battery and reviving it with short bursts. Why take the battery a part?
EagleBayou 2 years ago
you take it apart to finds the cells that have reversed polarity and need the shock. Never heard them say that welder jolt corrects a cell within the pack. But, with the amps they are pushing through.. it might. It looks like a faster way with less mechanical prep. But good cells get hit with that current, too. that would weaken, shorten lifespan and make it easier to reverse their polarity. Not to mention battery boom-booms are more likely and I like my 10 digits. Seems more harm than good.
phxexaminer 2 years ago
The best way i have found is just to get a normal car battery and just jolt it for 1-5 seconds and then repeat about 1-15 times then my battery (1300mah) took a charge of 1500 mah and climbing but shut it down and is working beautiful and this guy helped me to do it .THANKS
wesselderasmus 2 years ago
Will this work on smaller volt batteries? I have old airsoft gun batteries @ 7.5 volts, they are little batteries linked together like the drill batteries but there are only 5.
How would you get those to recharge again?
AN1Guitarman 2 years ago
The same process. Your small batteries (cells) are 1.5v each (1.5v x 5 = 7.5v) AA or AAA size. Use a meter-check each for voltage; if 0 then shock that cell with a 12v DC source for a second or two. Check again for voltage. If they come back at .75 to 1.5 volts charge em up and happy hunting! If no volts; nothing can be done, make the funeral arrangements ... RIP. I'll be posting a vid on making a new battery pack soon. Good luck on your music, Brother!
phxexaminer 2 years ago
At first old 12V car battery (put it in the carport and used real long wires-just in case)
Then found a Makita 12V battery and charger at Goodwill for $2. Got to be a pain 'cause it drained pretty quick.
Now I use a 120V AC to 12V DC adapter - 750 mA..found at Goodwill-$1..the type you use to power small electronics like radios. Just had to put a 1 amp fuse on the DC side. The kind of fuse setup like after market car stereos-again just in case. I have a schematic if you want. Cheers
phxexaminer 2 years ago
What type of 12V power source are you using to shock the individual cells?
spiralarch 2 years ago