Get or make the most ridgid machine possible, with the most powerful spindle practical. If you can afford it get a benchtop mill like SyiL. If you are building a first, I'd recommend high-ridgidity aluminum extrusion for a frame, to make things easier. Try to use as much bolt-on stuff as possible to minimize machining.
@151tdawg Sorry if I missed this... My first machine was based on plans from solsylva.com. My first videos are of that machine. There are different sized machine plans available. CNC Zone is also a valuable reference...
@camiphone Read up on teh tool manufacturer's recommended speeds, depths of cut, etc. Adjust them to the ridgidity of your machine. I'm pretty close to the recommended feed, though using a shallower doc and radial doc to accomodate the ridgidity (or lack thereof) of my machine. Always use a lubricant when cutting aluminum. Use stub endmills whenever possible.
The keys here are: 1) using the largest doc means you're using the SIDE of the endmill which cuts more efficient than the bottom, which also means less wear and less heat; 2) more doc means the workpiece is closer to the collet, meaning more ridgidity, 3) the right speed and feed so that you make chips that draw heat AYAY from the bit, and the chips should be hot to the touch; 4) lubrication to prevent galling, and 5) use a toolpath that doesn't bury the bit; use half doc for profiling....
For pocketing, if you decrease the doc, you can usually safely increase the radial doc (or stepover). This can be seen in the center hole pocket versus the spoke pockets. Once you have your speeds and feeds for a particular bit then it's all proportional, more or less, for other sized bits; i.e. for a 1/8" bit, I'd decrease everything but the spindle rpm by 1/2, and adjust from there. Also whenever possible, it's better to helix in than plunge.
@camiphone I used OneCNC XR3 Mill Advantage, but since upgraded to XR4 Mill Professional. I used their HSM (High Speed Machining) toolpaths which allow for more tool engagement without "burying" the bit, during pocketing operations...
Thanks! For all operations I'm using 75ipm feedrate, at about 18,500rpm, helixing inat 4 degrees.. The center hole was done at full depth 1/4" and .020" stepover. The pocketing was done at .100"doc per pass, 2 passes and .040" stepover. For the though pockets I believe I decreased the stepovvers to .015" and .040" respectively, and the doc at .130" per pass
Get or make the most ridgid machine possible, with the most powerful spindle practical. If you can afford it get a benchtop mill like SyiL. If you are building a first, I'd recommend high-ridgidity aluminum extrusion for a frame, to make things easier. Try to use as much bolt-on stuff as possible to minimize machining.
AtienzaLouie 6 months ago
ok so if a person got into cutting such things what would you recomend for a machine for a beginner??? this is open to anybody!!!
151tdawg 6 months ago
@151tdawg Sorry if I missed this... My first machine was based on plans from solsylva.com. My first videos are of that machine. There are different sized machine plans available. CNC Zone is also a valuable reference...
AtienzaLouie 3 weeks ago
I want to get into doing aluminum but have never tried it. Is there any tips you could offer to a beginner? :)
camiphone 6 months ago
@camiphone Read up on teh tool manufacturer's recommended speeds, depths of cut, etc. Adjust them to the ridgidity of your machine. I'm pretty close to the recommended feed, though using a shallower doc and radial doc to accomodate the ridgidity (or lack thereof) of my machine. Always use a lubricant when cutting aluminum. Use stub endmills whenever possible.
AtienzaLouie 6 months ago
The keys here are: 1) using the largest doc means you're using the SIDE of the endmill which cuts more efficient than the bottom, which also means less wear and less heat; 2) more doc means the workpiece is closer to the collet, meaning more ridgidity, 3) the right speed and feed so that you make chips that draw heat AYAY from the bit, and the chips should be hot to the touch; 4) lubrication to prevent galling, and 5) use a toolpath that doesn't bury the bit; use half doc for profiling....
AtienzaLouie 6 months ago
For pocketing, if you decrease the doc, you can usually safely increase the radial doc (or stepover). This can be seen in the center hole pocket versus the spoke pockets. Once you have your speeds and feeds for a particular bit then it's all proportional, more or less, for other sized bits; i.e. for a 1/8" bit, I'd decrease everything but the spindle rpm by 1/2, and adjust from there. Also whenever possible, it's better to helix in than plunge.
AtienzaLouie 6 months ago
What software have you used to program the cut paths?
camiphone 6 months ago
@camiphone I used OneCNC XR3 Mill Advantage, but since upgraded to XR4 Mill Professional. I used their HSM (High Speed Machining) toolpaths which allow for more tool engagement without "burying" the bit, during pocketing operations...
AtienzaLouie 6 months ago
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sherieefshamma 8 months ago
hey, very nice feed speed ! keep posting :)
kubroid 8 months ago
Thanks! For all operations I'm using 75ipm feedrate, at about 18,500rpm, helixing inat 4 degrees.. The center hole was done at full depth 1/4" and .020" stepover. The pocketing was done at .100"doc per pass, 2 passes and .040" stepover. For the though pockets I believe I decreased the stepovvers to .015" and .040" respectively, and the doc at .130" per pass
AtienzaLouie 9 months ago
Nice work!!
what feedrate, cut depth, and spindle speed do you use?
Ullteppet2 9 months ago