Added: 2 years ago
From: lhasarus
Views: 3,642
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  • your video inspired me.... really cool....

  • Mr Mark Setter (green bottle) is for helping 'set' the decal (aka make it stick).

    Mr Mark Softer (blue bottle) is for helping 'soften' the decal (aka make it go in curves/panel lines etc etc).

    The one you are using is to help make the decals stick, not conform to the shapes its on.

    Just a lill FYI

  • @shadowblack1987

    Thanks for letting me know! I guess I've to test the "real" softener. The setter softens the decal, too but I had problems with some really uneven shapes.

    I'll update the annotations!

  • @XN00RAISER7SWORD

    At modelers boards/blogs like zerogunz, fichtenfoo, plamo etc. some own variations and here I am ^^

  • I have seen a blue version of the mark setter. what is the difference?

  • Sorry. I've no clue at al.

  • do you have to use the solute thingy

  • It's better to use it. On even surfaces it isn't that necessary. But on curved areas the foil won't apply without it.

  • Thank you!!

  • thanks for the vid.. i am kind of a noob to this hobby, but thanks anyway..

  • did you use ems or sal shipping form hlj, and how long did it take?

  • birdy decode soundtrack?

  • I don't think so. I've never watched that anime (well...ok several minutes of the first episodes). The list of soundtracks I used are in the description ;-)

  • Song's from Eureka 7. The last opening thingy majingy.

  • yu do things just like this guy I know online...he has a blog about Gunpla and its huge. Funny how you do things exactly as he does. ._.

  • Is top coating the final step?

  • exactly. decals are very fragile so it's highly recommended to to coat it. A flat finish looks better too.

  • loved the series indeed

    gave me some real good advice about water slide decals

    and teh videos rocked

  • Cool Thanks!

    That was my intention ^^

  • thx a lot that really helps, cuz i just got my mg shin musha and mg strike freedom full burst mode a few mins ago so thnx for the assist.

  • how do u upload pics?

  • sry its the new master grade limited aeug version, it came with both wet, and dry ones wats the difference in applyin them?

  • Dry transfers are rubed on the parts. Place the sheet on the part and rub the unprinted side with a hard object. The decal on the painted side transfers to the model. Inform yourself well before doing this.

    Water slides are the one I use in this video. put the sheet in water. The decal seperates from the sheet and then place the decal on your model. Decal solution seals the whole thing.

    Test with the Bandai logo on the sheets if it's dry-transfer, water slide or a just a sticker.

  • now wats the difference with the dry transfers? like my aeug rx-79 mk2 silver transfers? i used water and had a little success. are u supposed to use water? how do u do them?

  • Don't know if your MK. 2 kit comes with dry transfers or water slides. Is it HG, HGUC, MG, MG HD colors?

    Please be more precise or upload a picture of the decal sheet.

    I've never had dry transfers. But I aaume that using water with dry transfers somewhat destroys the decal.

  • AWESOME SERIES! I really enjoyed the series thank you for the vids.

  • I'm glad you like it. And thanks for all the comments xD

  • great song choice of eureka seven :D, also great tutorial on water color

  • Looks great , can't wait to when I do my nemo.

  • great series~ although i dont know most of the materials & tools u used :P

    thx for making these vids, i enjoy alot :)

  • That was one great series, but the amount of tools you used to make it happen went right over my head!

    Lately I have been experimenting with a drill to add battle damage to my models; it looks great with a bit of metallic gundam marker.

    Do you recommend using washes to panel line your models and give them natural blemishes? Should I use base coats and build up my brightness from there? Should I paint over my washes?

  • Thanks!

    What I learned from doing the weathered and battle damaged parts of this kit: Its good to do inking (with heavily thinned paint) to darken the in-bends/scratches and panel lines. The color should be a darker tone than your base color (or plastic color if you don't prime/spray-paint). Highlight the edges by doing dry brush with a lighter color or metallic color. Can't give advices on Gundam Markers cause I don't use them. A dark base and brightening it up is imho better when airbrushing.

  • Well I am not sure what the guy in the store was letting me use when I was beginning to learn how to paint the other day but I know dark and going lighter seemed to be working. I find paint sticks to gundams better than the warhammer guys so maybe I can just paint right on the plastic.

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