Thanks for letting me know! I guess I've to test the "real" softener. The setter softens the decal, too but I had problems with some really uneven shapes.
I don't think so. I've never watched that anime (well...ok several minutes of the first episodes). The list of soundtracks I used are in the description ;-)
Dry transfers are rubed on the parts. Place the sheet on the part and rub the unprinted side with a hard object. The decal on the painted side transfers to the model. Inform yourself well before doing this.
Water slides are the one I use in this video. put the sheet in water. The decal seperates from the sheet and then place the decal on your model. Decal solution seals the whole thing.
Test with the Bandai logo on the sheets if it's dry-transfer, water slide or a just a sticker.
now wats the difference with the dry transfers? like my aeug rx-79 mk2 silver transfers? i used water and had a little success. are u supposed to use water? how do u do them?
That was one great series, but the amount of tools you used to make it happen went right over my head!
Lately I have been experimenting with a drill to add battle damage to my models; it looks great with a bit of metallic gundam marker.
Do you recommend using washes to panel line your models and give them natural blemishes? Should I use base coats and build up my brightness from there? Should I paint over my washes?
What I learned from doing the weathered and battle damaged parts of this kit: Its good to do inking (with heavily thinned paint) to darken the in-bends/scratches and panel lines. The color should be a darker tone than your base color (or plastic color if you don't prime/spray-paint). Highlight the edges by doing dry brush with a lighter color or metallic color. Can't give advices on Gundam Markers cause I don't use them. A dark base and brightening it up is imho better when airbrushing.
Well I am not sure what the guy in the store was letting me use when I was beginning to learn how to paint the other day but I know dark and going lighter seemed to be working. I find paint sticks to gundams better than the warhammer guys so maybe I can just paint right on the plastic.
your video inspired me.... really cool....
ayamcupu 1 year ago
Mr Mark Setter (green bottle) is for helping 'set' the decal (aka make it stick).
Mr Mark Softer (blue bottle) is for helping 'soften' the decal (aka make it go in curves/panel lines etc etc).
The one you are using is to help make the decals stick, not conform to the shapes its on.
Just a lill FYI
shadowblack1987 1 year ago
@shadowblack1987
Thanks for letting me know! I guess I've to test the "real" softener. The setter softens the decal, too but I had problems with some really uneven shapes.
I'll update the annotations!
lhasarus 1 year ago
@XN00RAISER7SWORD
At modelers boards/blogs like zerogunz, fichtenfoo, plamo etc. some own variations and here I am ^^
lhasarus 1 year ago
I have seen a blue version of the mark setter. what is the difference?
pattyboy1001 1 year ago
Sorry. I've no clue at al.
lhasarus 1 year ago
do you have to use the solute thingy
pattyboy1001 2 years ago
It's better to use it. On even surfaces it isn't that necessary. But on curved areas the foil won't apply without it.
lhasarus 2 years ago
Thank you!!
pattyboy1001 2 years ago
thanks for the vid.. i am kind of a noob to this hobby, but thanks anyway..
bokiopagulayan 2 years ago
did you use ems or sal shipping form hlj, and how long did it take?
Blythe31 2 years ago
birdy decode soundtrack?
TheTraveler12 2 years ago
I don't think so. I've never watched that anime (well...ok several minutes of the first episodes). The list of soundtracks I used are in the description ;-)
lhasarus 2 years ago
Song's from Eureka 7. The last opening thingy majingy.
migzomgwtf 2 years ago
yu do things just like this guy I know online...he has a blog about Gunpla and its huge. Funny how you do things exactly as he does. ._.
xxLelouchxx67 2 years ago
Is top coating the final step?
madnessroxs 2 years ago
exactly. decals are very fragile so it's highly recommended to to coat it. A flat finish looks better too.
lhasarus 2 years ago
loved the series indeed
gave me some real good advice about water slide decals
and teh videos rocked
cabellism 2 years ago
Cool Thanks!
That was my intention ^^
lhasarus 2 years ago
thx a lot that really helps, cuz i just got my mg shin musha and mg strike freedom full burst mode a few mins ago so thnx for the assist.
nineballl27 2 years ago
how do u upload pics?
nineballl27 2 years ago
sry its the new master grade limited aeug version, it came with both wet, and dry ones wats the difference in applyin them?
nineballl27 2 years ago
Dry transfers are rubed on the parts. Place the sheet on the part and rub the unprinted side with a hard object. The decal on the painted side transfers to the model. Inform yourself well before doing this.
Water slides are the one I use in this video. put the sheet in water. The decal seperates from the sheet and then place the decal on your model. Decal solution seals the whole thing.
Test with the Bandai logo on the sheets if it's dry-transfer, water slide or a just a sticker.
lhasarus 2 years ago
now wats the difference with the dry transfers? like my aeug rx-79 mk2 silver transfers? i used water and had a little success. are u supposed to use water? how do u do them?
nineballl27 2 years ago
Don't know if your MK. 2 kit comes with dry transfers or water slides. Is it HG, HGUC, MG, MG HD colors?
Please be more precise or upload a picture of the decal sheet.
I've never had dry transfers. But I aaume that using water with dry transfers somewhat destroys the decal.
lhasarus 2 years ago
AWESOME SERIES! I really enjoyed the series thank you for the vids.
frow55 2 years ago
I'm glad you like it. And thanks for all the comments xD
lhasarus 2 years ago
great song choice of eureka seven :D, also great tutorial on water color
sopheaku 2 years ago
Looks great , can't wait to when I do my nemo.
Deathscythehell85 2 years ago
great series~ although i dont know most of the materials & tools u used :P
thx for making these vids, i enjoy alot :)
Vancoustique 2 years ago
That was one great series, but the amount of tools you used to make it happen went right over my head!
Lately I have been experimenting with a drill to add battle damage to my models; it looks great with a bit of metallic gundam marker.
Do you recommend using washes to panel line your models and give them natural blemishes? Should I use base coats and build up my brightness from there? Should I paint over my washes?
beaglese 2 years ago
Thanks!
What I learned from doing the weathered and battle damaged parts of this kit: Its good to do inking (with heavily thinned paint) to darken the in-bends/scratches and panel lines. The color should be a darker tone than your base color (or plastic color if you don't prime/spray-paint). Highlight the edges by doing dry brush with a lighter color or metallic color. Can't give advices on Gundam Markers cause I don't use them. A dark base and brightening it up is imho better when airbrushing.
lhasarus 2 years ago
Well I am not sure what the guy in the store was letting me use when I was beginning to learn how to paint the other day but I know dark and going lighter seemed to be working. I find paint sticks to gundams better than the warhammer guys so maybe I can just paint right on the plastic.
beaglese 2 years ago