so I just got a 1060 carbon steal blade and didnt know u need to oil it, sooo what should I get and where should I get it, alos could I youse oilive oil or wd4 maby for now? or would that do more harm then good, I saw a diff video guy said gun oil works the best, is that true? could I find that ate a walmart big 5s kinda plase or real gunstore or online only?
@whiteboypatrickkelly Olive Oil = Bad. Gun Oil = Great. WD-40 = OK. .. But seriously, how hard is it to find 3 IN ONE OIL? I just went to Walmart's website and they have it. This is one of the most common household 'workshop' products in the country. Everyone should have a can.
@Djemps ok thanx Ill look around the house maby my dad has some, I never even heard of 3 in 1 lmao, so lets say I gotta go out and buy some oil you still think 3 in 1 is better then gun oil, like lets say I gotta forke over a few bux what should I get the 3 in 1?
@twist127 Any sword with more than about 3 percent chromium is not a battle ready sword by default. That goes double for a long, thin blade like a Katana. 420 steel has 12 percent. Now, it will definitely cut things, but any serious contact will almost certainly break it. Not a blade for anything but show, or non-contact kata training.
Blade steels that are worth looking at include 1050, 1060 (anything 10--) carbon steel, 5160, 9255 and 9260 spring steels, and T-10 and L6 tool steels.
After some research I reached that conclusion too- unfortunately where I live the are very few stores , even in the internet is hard. And in the store that I was aiming to buy (only one) there are only the 420. Do you know of any online dealer that ships things from Europe? Thanks.
You have just saved my darling swords life <33333
I could never find a cleaner that worked properly to clean the rust off of my baby. This trick worked SO well. Yes. My sword is my baby. I got him from my best friend in the whole wide world <3!
@Scarface23333 It's just an old kind of oil that has been sold in America for more than 100 years. It is good for bicycle chains and metal hinges etc... You can get it at any hardware store, even some grocery stores carry it.
i have this weird indian thing, not native american, type blade that the previous owner used to oil its sticky and has wierd marks on it how do i clean it
Do the same thing as in this video. It may sound weird, but adding extra oil should help move that gunk off your blade. If that doesn't work, get some sanding blocks of various grains, work from large grain to small grain and finish it off with really fine steel wool. Then, oil it again.
Yet another question comes. What do I need for longsword fencing? I know I need at least a helmet and gloves, but I don't know if there is one specific kind to get. Most I see are designed for foils. Also for faster paced sparring, would a gambeson come into play? Or is it not necessary? Any advice is appreciated.
From what ive noticed the pommel and crossguard seem to be out of proportion. The pommel is huge, to say the least, looks like a hockey puck, and the crossguard just seems a little bit short. I dont know? You guys are fencing for German Longsword techniques? correct? the Hanwei Practical H&H sword is about 44" or so, but most longsword videos are done with 48" longswords with no fullers. I dont know i think this sword can get the job done for what im trying to do.
Im guessing that is a Hanwei Practical Hand and a Half sword. Im actually looking to get one of those as part of a project im doing just for myself. But im not sure it would work because im looking for a rather inexpensive sword from the 12th century, because my project involves the crusades, but i cant seem to find a simple, dulled, and fairly inexpensive sword that matches the period. This sword i read in the description is a 15th century. If you have any ideas, id greatly appreciate it.
Yes, this is the Hanwei Practical H&H. You might want to look at Hanwei's Practical Norman Sword. It is based on a design from the 11th century. It has a crossguard, but is only one handed.
Yeah, that's what I was thinking, but in fact I think that Hanwei also has a 36" single handed sword. I researched that during the crusades, the arming sword or knightly sword was the weapon of choice at the time, the longsword or H&H sword didn't come around until the 14th or 15th centuries.
This is definetly correct. The knights of the 12th century were still wearing mail hauberks and gambesons when going to war in the east. So a single handed sword paired with a kite or heater shield was still their main choice. I have handled both Hanwei's Practical Norman Sword as well as their Practical Arming Sword. The Arming Sword handles MUCH better. It's just a cruciform sword so it should not look too out of place. Only the blade geometry is different. 12 century blades were more chunky.
Oh I forgot to mention - if you start using sandpaper on your blades its a very good idea to have lubrication so a light oil of some sort is very good. Also keep in mind that if you apply sandpaper to any part of the blade you have to be careful to make sure it all blends in with the rest of the blade's finish. Basically you might have to do the entire blade in sandpaper.
Hey folks just a note on the rust issue of the swords. I coat all my blades with a super thin layer of grease (I use a synthetic gun grease but any automotive grease would work too). They stay rust free even in inclement weather. As for your little spots that won't go away try polishing the blade with sandpaper. Start with a coarser grit if you have really stubborn spots then step up gradually to finer grits till you're back to your satin finish.
1, after every time you make a move like that where the blade goes onto the soil, wipe the tip *before* resuming practice, make it a habit so it's second nature to do so. (tetanus isn't nice, avoid the risk)
2, you might want to go shopping around car garages and try to find "Autosol". it's a chrome polish for cars and is bloody fantastic for weapons and armour, slap a bit on a rag, and it will polish out even fairly heavy spotting without scratching up the surface like wire wool.
Maybe I'm confused about your first point. This is a blunt training blade. So although there are occasionally nicks and burrs on the blunt edge, it would take a lot of force to break the skin and subsequently infect the area.
The black spots are places where the corrosion has had time to etch into the steel. You might want to kick it up a notch and use steel wool. But it has to be the old style steel wool that you can find at home improvement stores. The new kind they sell at supermarkets is useless. There is also old style steel wool that has blue dish detergent injected into it. Avoid this kind as well because the chemicals might harm the blade.
Yes, the surface of the steel may take on a brushed look from the abrasive scrubby. Medieval knights used put their weapons and armor in a barel of sand and roll them around for a while to get the rust off. I think people need to get out of this esoteric mystical sword worship mindset that has been passed around for so long and adopt a practical understanding of arms and armor. Oh, and thanks for the comment!
Yes, it does scratch the steel, but ever-so-slightly. Besides, this sword is not designed to look pretty, it was designed to be used for re-enactment.
so I just got a 1060 carbon steal blade and didnt know u need to oil it, sooo what should I get and where should I get it, alos could I youse oilive oil or wd4 maby for now? or would that do more harm then good, I saw a diff video guy said gun oil works the best, is that true? could I find that ate a walmart big 5s kinda plase or real gunstore or online only?
whiteboypatrickkelly 1 month ago
@whiteboypatrickkelly Olive Oil = Bad. Gun Oil = Great. WD-40 = OK. .. But seriously, how hard is it to find 3 IN ONE OIL? I just went to Walmart's website and they have it. This is one of the most common household 'workshop' products in the country. Everyone should have a can.
Djemps 1 month ago
@Djemps ok thanx Ill look around the house maby my dad has some, I never even heard of 3 in 1 lmao, so lets say I gotta go out and buy some oil you still think 3 in 1 is better then gun oil, like lets say I gotta forke over a few bux what should I get the 3 in 1?
whiteboypatrickkelly 1 month ago
@whiteboypatrickkelly >> 3-in-1. Gun Oil is 4x the price. Just google it bro. Walmart. Amazon. Anywhere.
Djemps 1 month ago
can i use other types of oil?
thebigcrap009 1 month ago
@thebigcrap009 I wouldn't recommend it. What other kind of oil were you thinking of?
Djemps 1 month ago
@Djemps i was thinking of vaseline.
thebigcrap009 1 month ago
@thebigcrap009 NOOOO!!!!!
Use the wrong oil and it can eat into your finish. Trust me, if you live ANYWHERE in the united states, you can find 3-in-1 oil.
Djemps 1 month ago
@Djemps ok, thank you!
thebigcrap009 1 month ago
you want a 1060 carbon steel katana that is good.
acsnowboarder13 1 year ago
Hello, does a Carbon Steel 420 (HRC 42) Katana suck? Can they cut meat and plastic? Will they breake ? Thanks
twist127 1 year ago
@twist127 Any sword with more than about 3 percent chromium is not a battle ready sword by default. That goes double for a long, thin blade like a Katana. 420 steel has 12 percent. Now, it will definitely cut things, but any serious contact will almost certainly break it. Not a blade for anything but show, or non-contact kata training.
Blade steels that are worth looking at include 1050, 1060 (anything 10--) carbon steel, 5160, 9255 and 9260 spring steels, and T-10 and L6 tool steels.
YetAnotherCollegeKid 1 year ago 3
@YetAnotherCollegeKid
After some research I reached that conclusion too- unfortunately where I live the are very few stores , even in the internet is hard. And in the store that I was aiming to buy (only one) there are only the 420. Do you know of any online dealer that ships things from Europe? Thanks.
twist127 1 year ago
@twist127 Check out kultofathena[dot]com .. Good prices and they ship internationally. Good luck!
Djemps 1 year ago
Thanks much, your video was very helpful.
Rozuko111111111 1 year ago
You have just saved my darling swords life <33333
I could never find a cleaner that worked properly to clean the rust off of my baby. This trick worked SO well. Yes. My sword is my baby. I got him from my best friend in the whole wide world <3!
Wolfie3939 1 year ago
@Wolfie3939 I just read your comment. I'm glad this video helped!
Djemps 1 year ago
hey wot is a 3in1 household oil
Scarface23333 1 year ago
@Scarface23333 It's just an old kind of oil that has been sold in America for more than 100 years. It is good for bicycle chains and metal hinges etc... You can get it at any hardware store, even some grocery stores carry it.
Djemps 1 year ago
i have this weird indian thing, not native american, type blade that the previous owner used to oil its sticky and has wierd marks on it how do i clean it
manhattenproject09er 2 years ago
Do the same thing as in this video. It may sound weird, but adding extra oil should help move that gunk off your blade. If that doesn't work, get some sanding blocks of various grains, work from large grain to small grain and finish it off with really fine steel wool. Then, oil it again.
kingolaf99 2 years ago
Hey we got the same sword! ;)
Meshelsidek 2 years ago
Yet another question comes. What do I need for longsword fencing? I know I need at least a helmet and gloves, but I don't know if there is one specific kind to get. Most I see are designed for foils. Also for faster paced sparring, would a gambeson come into play? Or is it not necessary? Any advice is appreciated.
Martzx3193 3 years ago
From what ive noticed the pommel and crossguard seem to be out of proportion. The pommel is huge, to say the least, looks like a hockey puck, and the crossguard just seems a little bit short. I dont know? You guys are fencing for German Longsword techniques? correct? the Hanwei Practical H&H sword is about 44" or so, but most longsword videos are done with 48" longswords with no fullers. I dont know i think this sword can get the job done for what im trying to do.
Martzx3193 3 years ago
Im guessing that is a Hanwei Practical Hand and a Half sword. Im actually looking to get one of those as part of a project im doing just for myself. But im not sure it would work because im looking for a rather inexpensive sword from the 12th century, because my project involves the crusades, but i cant seem to find a simple, dulled, and fairly inexpensive sword that matches the period. This sword i read in the description is a 15th century. If you have any ideas, id greatly appreciate it.
Martzx3193 3 years ago
Yes, this is the Hanwei Practical H&H. You might want to look at Hanwei's Practical Norman Sword. It is based on a design from the 11th century. It has a crossguard, but is only one handed.
Djemps 3 years ago
Yeah, that's what I was thinking, but in fact I think that Hanwei also has a 36" single handed sword. I researched that during the crusades, the arming sword or knightly sword was the weapon of choice at the time, the longsword or H&H sword didn't come around until the 14th or 15th centuries.
Martzx3193 3 years ago
This is definetly correct. The knights of the 12th century were still wearing mail hauberks and gambesons when going to war in the east. So a single handed sword paired with a kite or heater shield was still their main choice. I have handled both Hanwei's Practical Norman Sword as well as their Practical Arming Sword. The Arming Sword handles MUCH better. It's just a cruciform sword so it should not look too out of place. Only the blade geometry is different. 12 century blades were more chunky.
Djemps 3 years ago
you said you are looking an inexpensive sword from the 12 century? the royal mile have a 12th century irish longsword for £80
patrickhughesmusic 3 years ago
Oh I forgot to mention - if you start using sandpaper on your blades its a very good idea to have lubrication so a light oil of some sort is very good. Also keep in mind that if you apply sandpaper to any part of the blade you have to be careful to make sure it all blends in with the rest of the blade's finish. Basically you might have to do the entire blade in sandpaper.
katanasam1 3 years ago
Hey folks just a note on the rust issue of the swords. I coat all my blades with a super thin layer of grease (I use a synthetic gun grease but any automotive grease would work too). They stay rust free even in inclement weather. As for your little spots that won't go away try polishing the blade with sandpaper. Start with a coarser grit if you have really stubborn spots then step up gradually to finer grits till you're back to your satin finish.
katanasam1 3 years ago
ah. you're buggered there, then.
I'll take a check if autosol will work on a satin finish, and let you know.
suzerain01 3 years ago
two points.
1, after every time you make a move like that where the blade goes onto the soil, wipe the tip *before* resuming practice, make it a habit so it's second nature to do so. (tetanus isn't nice, avoid the risk)
2, you might want to go shopping around car garages and try to find "Autosol". it's a chrome polish for cars and is bloody fantastic for weapons and armour, slap a bit on a rag, and it will polish out even fairly heavy spotting without scratching up the surface like wire wool.
suzerain01 3 years ago
Problem is, that the Hanwei has an almost satin-like finish, with lines going from base to tip.
Cleaning with an abrasive compound would give it a shiny mirror finish.
punio4 3 years ago
Maybe I'm confused about your first point. This is a blunt training blade. So although there are occasionally nicks and burrs on the blunt edge, it would take a lot of force to break the skin and subsequently infect the area.
Djemps 3 years ago
Had a similar problem, with the same sword about a week ago :D
Used WD40 and a generic kitchen sponge with a rough abrasive surface. Got it real clean too.
However, I can't seem to get the little dark/black spots out.
punio4 3 years ago
The black spots are places where the corrosion has had time to etch into the steel. You might want to kick it up a notch and use steel wool. But it has to be the old style steel wool that you can find at home improvement stores. The new kind they sell at supermarkets is useless. There is also old style steel wool that has blue dish detergent injected into it. Avoid this kind as well because the chemicals might harm the blade.
Djemps 3 years ago
Steel wool you say?
The only kind I can find is the one they sell for kitchen use... Even at stores like Bauhaus.
Tried that one... The really fine one after which your hands itch. No change. The spots are still there.
It seems that I'll have to go with some serious lapping with sandpaper and oil.
punio4 3 years ago
Yes, the surface of the steel may take on a brushed look from the abrasive scrubby. Medieval knights used put their weapons and armor in a barel of sand and roll them around for a while to get the rust off. I think people need to get out of this esoteric mystical sword worship mindset that has been passed around for so long and adopt a practical understanding of arms and armor. Oh, and thanks for the comment!
Djemps 3 years ago
Yes, it does scratch the steel, but ever-so-slightly. Besides, this sword is not designed to look pretty, it was designed to be used for re-enactment.
Master293 3 years ago
Lookie^^ Hanwei practical hand and a half.
Master293 3 years ago
Looks like someone has been shopping around for an affordable practice sword!
Djemps 3 years ago
I haven't. I just know my swords. ;)
Master293 3 years ago
first comment
drzendoom 3 years ago