@cameron947 It's on the side of the injection pump. You take this cap off and then you can look in and see this thing that looks like the end of a flat screwdriver. It only shows up when you are very close to TDC compression/power #1. It is centered in the hole when the pump is at stock timing degree relative to engine TDC. I'll post a link in the video description so you can see pics of it.
@cameron947 The adjuster itself is kind of insignificant. The dial indicator is the "adjuster". Whenever you tight the valve down really far so that it will hit the piston, you zero the dial indicator, that is how you know where the adjuster is. If it was at 0, you would rotate the engine ever so slowly until the gauge started to deflect a few thousandths, that is the piston hitting the valve. Then you can unscrew the lash all the way so the valve isn't hitting, uhhh look at comment #2
@Axidias79 ...rotate the engine past TDC, turn the lash until the dial indicator gets back to that zeroed point, that is exactly where it was last time since you zeroed it out, so it is important not to bump the indicator. That is how you know the valve goes back to exactly the same mark.. Just remember to always back it off after the piston deflects the valve a few thousandths, I don't want to read about anyone bending a valve. It is a little bit technical/tedious but it's dead nuts accurate
@Axidias79 For reference, using math with the damper being 9 1/4" diameter, that works out to a degree having a chord length of 0.08", so if you have calipers you can use this to your advantage. Get the timing mark into the sight window of the P7100, then break the gear loose on the pump, making sure the timing mark is still perfectly centered. This should be perfect TDC of the engine, if it isn't you can turn the engine till it is at perfect TDC then lock it while the pump is locked and this
@Axidias79 ...will put the engine back at stock timing as accurately as possible, though that timing mark sight glass is not as accurate as is possible, but is as good as you can get using that timing mark sight. Using spill port timing is as accurate as it gets. However, if you did as just mentioned, the engine will be at stock timing, so loosen the pump gear again and using calipers, measure out the desired degree from the stock degree. A stock truck is 12.5-13.5* I think so you are already
@Axidias79 ...that far, so to get 16*, simple find the difference. My engines stock timing is 13.5 so there is a 2.5 degree difference. Since each damper degree measures 0.08", I would set it for 0.2" and with the pump gear still loose, rotate the engine backwards 0.2". Make sure to get to the timing mark sight glass by rotating backwards as well, otherwise you will have backlash that will screw with your timing results. Tighten everything and it will be at 16*. Remember this is not as
@Axidias79 ...accurate as spill port or even the method most are accustomed to that involve a dial indicator measuring plunger lift. That timing mark sight glass is in fact just a lever that anything can happen to without the pump caring at all, so using it's accuracy alone to time the truck could be weary on a truck whose timing seems off when you set it to stock timing using that timing mark. You should verify with a more accurate method in that instance.
Where is the timing mark site glass?
cameron947 1 month ago
@cameron947 It's on the side of the injection pump. You take this cap off and then you can look in and see this thing that looks like the end of a flat screwdriver. It only shows up when you are very close to TDC compression/power #1. It is centered in the hole when the pump is at stock timing degree relative to engine TDC. I'll post a link in the video description so you can see pics of it.
Axidias79 1 month ago
How do you know how far to tighten up the valve adjuster so it's the exact same to make each mark?
cameron947 1 month ago
@cameron947 The adjuster itself is kind of insignificant. The dial indicator is the "adjuster". Whenever you tight the valve down really far so that it will hit the piston, you zero the dial indicator, that is how you know where the adjuster is. If it was at 0, you would rotate the engine ever so slowly until the gauge started to deflect a few thousandths, that is the piston hitting the valve. Then you can unscrew the lash all the way so the valve isn't hitting, uhhh look at comment #2
Axidias79 1 month ago
@Axidias79 ...rotate the engine past TDC, turn the lash until the dial indicator gets back to that zeroed point, that is exactly where it was last time since you zeroed it out, so it is important not to bump the indicator. That is how you know the valve goes back to exactly the same mark.. Just remember to always back it off after the piston deflects the valve a few thousandths, I don't want to read about anyone bending a valve. It is a little bit technical/tedious but it's dead nuts accurate
Axidias79 1 month ago
@Axidias79 For reference, using math with the damper being 9 1/4" diameter, that works out to a degree having a chord length of 0.08", so if you have calipers you can use this to your advantage. Get the timing mark into the sight window of the P7100, then break the gear loose on the pump, making sure the timing mark is still perfectly centered. This should be perfect TDC of the engine, if it isn't you can turn the engine till it is at perfect TDC then lock it while the pump is locked and this
Axidias79 1 month ago
@Axidias79 ...will put the engine back at stock timing as accurately as possible, though that timing mark sight glass is not as accurate as is possible, but is as good as you can get using that timing mark sight. Using spill port timing is as accurate as it gets. However, if you did as just mentioned, the engine will be at stock timing, so loosen the pump gear again and using calipers, measure out the desired degree from the stock degree. A stock truck is 12.5-13.5* I think so you are already
Axidias79 1 month ago
@Axidias79 ...that far, so to get 16*, simple find the difference. My engines stock timing is 13.5 so there is a 2.5 degree difference. Since each damper degree measures 0.08", I would set it for 0.2" and with the pump gear still loose, rotate the engine backwards 0.2". Make sure to get to the timing mark sight glass by rotating backwards as well, otherwise you will have backlash that will screw with your timing results. Tighten everything and it will be at 16*. Remember this is not as
Axidias79 1 month ago
@Axidias79 ...accurate as spill port or even the method most are accustomed to that involve a dial indicator measuring plunger lift. That timing mark sight glass is in fact just a lever that anything can happen to without the pump caring at all, so using it's accuracy alone to time the truck could be weary on a truck whose timing seems off when you set it to stock timing using that timing mark. You should verify with a more accurate method in that instance.
Axidias79 1 month ago