Dumped my Avids for Formula R1's, best thing I ever did. Will never go back to Avid for brakes. Still love SRAM and Rockshox, but man the Avids are just disappointing. The howling/screeching was so bad, and my LBS couldn't get it to stop on my 2011 Epic.
I did this procedure twice now. I dialed them in yesterday and went for a quick 10 mile ride. The brakes worked great. about 3 hours after my ride, I squeezed the levers and they were mush! This has happened twice now. I have no leaks (oil leaking) anywhere at this point. I would think that if a seal was shot that fluid would also be leaking. ????
If your Elixir CRs lever squeeze distance is funky - try this. This video neglects to mention the importance of using the pad spacer (opposite end of the bleed block) after bleeding. Since this lever "auto-adjusts" - setting this spacing is key to proper pad engagement point from the levers. I had troubles with this - the proper spacing is set by re-installing the pads, pad-spacer, then squeezing the brakes a few times, the "auto-adjust" mechanism is set. Reinstall wheel - firm action again.
I just performed this procedure on my Trek Fuel EX 8 for the first time. I used the Avid bleed kit along with this video and everything was super easy. If you follow the instructions and take the time to do the job right you'll find this procedure is not as nearly as difficult as some people say it is.
@13woj13 NO!! You will most likely destroy rubber parts inside! Tektros and shimanos use mineral oil, Avids use DOT4 and DOT5.1 (it is a caustic and toxic substance, needs special rubber that can withstand it). Buy any decent 5wt Fork or Brake mineral oil, Castrol or Motorex or whatever, from auto/moto parts dealer, they are all roughly the same. Just do NOT buy motor/transmission/any other oil!
@lkt1842 I have just bled my brakes, so i went to test them, before i got on it, i spun the wheel nd braked, everything was ok, so i got on it and then braked few times but then suddenly the brake pads are braking on the rotors, they didnt let go with the rotor and the lever is now impossible to be pressed, can anyone help? Sorry if it doesnt make sence :D
@joggekr Hi. I bleed every two to three pad renewals and/or recommend bleeding at least every two years. Some recommend every year but if the breaks are fine, I wouldn't necessarily keep on bleeding them. One good way to check if your brakes need bleeding is to lift the front wheel of the bike at a 60° angle. If the break point wanders, then your system needs bleeding.
Read through the manual on the reach adjust and it mentioned to "ensure that the reach is not adjusted so far out that it causes the lever blade to bottom out on the lever body. Doing so can make bleeding the brake impossible"
Does this mean to ensure the lever is not fully away from the handlebar? (reach dial turned anticlockwise opposite the arrow ) TQVM
@echoed888 Exactly. The important thing is to ensure you're not bleeding with the lever too close to the handlebar but setting the lever to a maximum value (away from the bar) may position the piston inside the lever too far out which will block breaking fluid from entering the hose ... so optimum is 3/4 - 4/5 away from the bar (approximately).
They missed a part about checking lever reach adjuster - bleeding might not work if it is all the way in. I usually turn it all the way out (brake handle furthest from handlebar) minus 1 turn. -1 is needed because adjuster sometimes gets stuck if it is left all the way out.
@YouGuysAreAmazing I made my own bleed kit so I didn't have a manual :) I started paying attention to reach adjustment when I noticed that an elixirs' bleeding randomly fails, even when there are absolutely no bubbles inside... So I believe CHECKING reach IS essential, but adjusting it - is indeed not always necessary. Anyway just checked on my elixirs cr - max out minus 1 full turn is exactly the same as 3/4 out :)
Could you provide some video that would address the adjustment made to the lever housing on this video at the time point 2:11 for the Avid Elixir R model. My lever housing seems different then the one depicted. Thanks!
Well I know exactly what my first upgrade for my status is going to be..
Secondaccount152 15 hours ago
What did you do with all your spokes? Do you not ride very hard?
tremeloted 2 days ago
Easier method coming up,
1. Don't watch this video, you don't need to do half this shit.
tremeloted 2 days ago
@joryverhelst is the 2012 avid elixir 9c any good?
lstruggy 3 days ago
Dumped my Avids for Formula R1's, best thing I ever did. Will never go back to Avid for brakes. Still love SRAM and Rockshox, but man the Avids are just disappointing. The howling/screeching was so bad, and my LBS couldn't get it to stop on my 2011 Epic.
SolidCopy1 1 week ago in playlist Uploaded videos
Just trying to figure out the beginning. How is it best to completely remove the brake fluid before replacing with new fluid?
o0SeanT0o 2 weeks ago
@o0SeanT0o The new oil will push out the old oil.
sebby007 2 weeks ago
daimm that much work for bleeding! who invents this stuff? i worked 30 min at a avid brake bleed
and 5 min at a shimano brake bleed. AVID GET YOURE SHIT TOGETHER!!!!!
joryverhelst 3 weeks ago 7
4:22 Gently pull on the plunger and no matter how gently you pull, you'll always pull air past the pad contact adjust seal. FML
odysseybmx88 3 weeks ago 4
I'll rather have a Shimano since they use mineral oil. DOT 4 is nasty.
chunky1x 4 weeks ago
hi
Danielalove098 1 month ago
I should've bought BB7's.
tubenachos 1 month ago
@tubenachos no get elixers lol
qtopthisq 1 month ago
i have these, but i hate the fact you cant adjust the contact point! could you run a different lever with caliper? or is that just plain stupid?
timsurftim 1 month ago
ha miau wer will camen
RoxyDeliavs695 2 months ago
What kit should i use for man Demo 8 with Custom Avid Elixir R?
joakimbilling 3 months ago
I did this procedure twice now. I dialed them in yesterday and went for a quick 10 mile ride. The brakes worked great. about 3 hours after my ride, I squeezed the levers and they were mush! This has happened twice now. I have no leaks (oil leaking) anywhere at this point. I would think that if a seal was shot that fluid would also be leaking. ????
Drnwagn1 4 months ago
@Drnwagn1 maybe the fluid isint de-gased enuf ?
orangeracer223 4 months ago
If your Elixir CRs lever squeeze distance is funky - try this. This video neglects to mention the importance of using the pad spacer (opposite end of the bleed block) after bleeding. Since this lever "auto-adjusts" - setting this spacing is key to proper pad engagement point from the levers. I had troubles with this - the proper spacing is set by re-installing the pads, pad-spacer, then squeezing the brakes a few times, the "auto-adjust" mechanism is set. Reinstall wheel - firm action again.
Huckaby 4 months ago
Comment removed
13woj13 6 months ago
helpful! thank you so much
Bayplaces 6 months ago
I just performed this procedure on my Trek Fuel EX 8 for the first time. I used the Avid bleed kit along with this video and everything was super easy. If you follow the instructions and take the time to do the job right you'll find this procedure is not as nearly as difficult as some people say it is.
slkjohn 6 months ago
Does any one know if i cab use avid bleed oil even though i have tektro brakes?
13woj13 6 months ago
@13woj13 NO!! You will most likely destroy rubber parts inside! Tektros and shimanos use mineral oil, Avids use DOT4 and DOT5.1 (it is a caustic and toxic substance, needs special rubber that can withstand it). Buy any decent 5wt Fork or Brake mineral oil, Castrol or Motorex or whatever, from auto/moto parts dealer, they are all roughly the same. Just do NOT buy motor/transmission/any other oil!
lkt1842 6 months ago
Comment removed
13woj13 6 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@lkt1842 I have just bled my brakes, so i went to test them, before i got on it, i spun the wheel nd braked, everything was ok, so i got on it and then braked few times but then suddenly the brake pads are braking on the rotors, they didnt let go with the rotor and the lever is now impossible to be pressed, can anyone help? Sorry if it doesnt make sence :D
13woj13 6 months ago
ball ache
Sheeldzy 7 months ago
how many times do u have to brake before u replace the fluid oil
BillieJean900 7 months ago
is they full with fluid when you get them? so you can just put them on the bike, and then it is working?(:
joggekr 8 months ago
@joggekr Hi. I bleed every two to three pad renewals and/or recommend bleeding at least every two years. Some recommend every year but if the breaks are fine, I wouldn't necessarily keep on bleeding them. One good way to check if your brakes need bleeding is to lift the front wheel of the bike at a 60° angle. If the break point wanders, then your system needs bleeding.
YouGuysAreAmazing 6 months ago
Read through the manual on the reach adjust and it mentioned to "ensure that the reach is not adjusted so far out that it causes the lever blade to bottom out on the lever body. Doing so can make bleeding the brake impossible"
Does this mean to ensure the lever is not fully away from the handlebar? (reach dial turned anticlockwise opposite the arrow ) TQVM
echoed888 8 months ago
@echoed888 Exactly. The important thing is to ensure you're not bleeding with the lever too close to the handlebar but setting the lever to a maximum value (away from the bar) may position the piston inside the lever too far out which will block breaking fluid from entering the hose ... so optimum is 3/4 - 4/5 away from the bar (approximately).
YouGuysAreAmazing 6 months ago
im just thankful that my shimano hydraulics are very simple to bleed and dont require such a bleed kit :)
RussianPalikhov 8 months ago
Awesome thanks just like new !!!
butcher84100 8 months ago
Thnx for manual.
Everything's done as were instructed. Works perfect. You can also recommend DOT 5.1 fluids of any famous brands. I was using Liqui Molly DOT 5.1
101cyberdyne 8 months ago
@101cyberdyne SRAM recommends Pit Stop but LiquiMolly is just fine!
YouGuysAreAmazing 6 months ago
They missed a part about checking lever reach adjuster - bleeding might not work if it is all the way in. I usually turn it all the way out (brake handle furthest from handlebar) minus 1 turn. -1 is needed because adjuster sometimes gets stuck if it is left all the way out.
lkt1842 9 months ago 2
@lkt1842 This is actually not entirely necessary unless the levers are very close to the handlebar, then yeah you should adjust them outwards.
YouGuysAreAmazing 6 months ago
@YouGuysAreAmazing I made my own bleed kit so I didn't have a manual :) I started paying attention to reach adjustment when I noticed that an elixirs' bleeding randomly fails, even when there are absolutely no bubbles inside... So I believe CHECKING reach IS essential, but adjusting it - is indeed not always necessary. Anyway just checked on my elixirs cr - max out minus 1 full turn is exactly the same as 3/4 out :)
lkt1842 6 months ago
Could you provide some video that would address the adjustment made to the lever housing on this video at the time point 2:11 for the Avid Elixir R model. My lever housing seems different then the one depicted. Thanks!
IPADrinker 9 months ago
Comment removed
lkt1842 9 months ago
@IPADrinker I have the same model, and I just skip this. Our model does not have brake pad adjustment.
lkt1842 9 months ago