@michaeldiaz2 I havn't tried. Most solar panels put out way more power than a voltaic pile produces so there is really no point. These cells generate power through a redox reaction and aren't really designed for storing a charge.
If your not worried about the battery destroying itself, iron / aluminum pop cans and bleach gives you 2v cells. My zinc plated steel copper gives me 1.1v, but my ideal (hopefully) will be my nickel plated steel (homeplating) + copper. I'm going to bury long strips of plumbers strap, isolated from each other by layers of polymer based microfibre cloth, or polymer (thin) scrub pads. I'll saturate the strip I cut in the turf with strong NaOH, then backfill. Wish me luck lol
i made a battery sim that used silicon wafers and barium titanate inbetween charged whilst heated it produced over 1-3 volts and held its power for 6 yaers and still works today in school with my science teacher and still runs for school experiments,minifan power and others a real success ,and im thinking of making moar but space is an issue as they are flask size
The dirt simply acts as a substrate to hold the acid. The acid is Hydrolchloric Acid. There is a violent redox reaction between the metals (copper and zinc) which produces a high current. Unfortunately the redox reaches equilibrium quite fast ... the cell only lasts two days. Bigger metal and weaker solution should improve that.
Yeah i know what you mean. Maybe useful for a short term emergency lighting only. Have a look at my stainless steel water battery, without a load it has been holding a charge for over 3 months.
Can you charge an earth battery with a solar panel?
michaeldiaz2 1 day ago in playlist Uploaded videos
@michaeldiaz2 I havn't tried. Most solar panels put out way more power than a voltaic pile produces so there is really no point. These cells generate power through a redox reaction and aren't really designed for storing a charge.
Br0kenMan 1 day ago
Thanks. I've since found that graphite/magnesium gives me 3v per cell. Not as readily available but packs a punch. Good luck.
Br0kenMan 1 year ago
If your not worried about the battery destroying itself, iron / aluminum pop cans and bleach gives you 2v cells. My zinc plated steel copper gives me 1.1v, but my ideal (hopefully) will be my nickel plated steel (homeplating) + copper. I'm going to bury long strips of plumbers strap, isolated from each other by layers of polymer based microfibre cloth, or polymer (thin) scrub pads. I'll saturate the strip I cut in the turf with strong NaOH, then backfill. Wish me luck lol
KyleCarrington 1 year ago
i made a battery sim that used silicon wafers and barium titanate inbetween charged whilst heated it produced over 1-3 volts and held its power for 6 yaers and still works today in school with my science teacher and still runs for school experiments,minifan power and others a real success ,and im thinking of making moar but space is an issue as they are flask size
count3rculture 1 year ago
Thanks so much for the information.
jcornelius215 3 years ago
I am real interested in this video. What type of metals did use and how did u place them?
jcornelius215 3 years ago
The dirt simply acts as a substrate to hold the acid. The acid is Hydrolchloric Acid. There is a violent redox reaction between the metals (copper and zinc) which produces a high current. Unfortunately the redox reaches equilibrium quite fast ... the cell only lasts two days. Bigger metal and weaker solution should improve that.
Br0kenMan 3 years ago
indeed, I'm not much of a fan of using acidic solutions due to the fact that they disolve so quickly and die out. Let me know if you find a balance
GUILDGOB 3 years ago
Yeah i know what you mean. Maybe useful for a short term emergency lighting only. Have a look at my stainless steel water battery, without a load it has been holding a charge for over 3 months.
Br0kenMan 3 years ago
In this the metals used are copper and zinc.....positive-copper and negative-zinc...OK.
8956088265 1 year ago