LOL Just CUT the pink wire in the middle, strip it back a little and hook it up that way. "TA-DAAA" ! 1) faster -in emercency situation 2) Easier to fix back later.
Wut about for a 94 chevy caprice classic lt1 i spent so much on parts when i should have taken it to a shop hit me up on twitter or fb i could use da help @boochamberlain fb donald lilboo williams
Please note that the relay control module is specific to a few Ford vehicles, and is not present on most cars. Relays are typically controlled by the PCM (Powertrain control module), and you should NEVER start jumpering wires on a PCM connector without a very good understanding of automotive electronics and a good wiring diagram. You'll just fry it and end up spending hundreds of dollars at the local shop actually getting the problem fixed by a professional.
@myfagan Yeah, so long as you get the correct wires. That is my point. Accidentally send battery voltage back down the ground control side, you can damage the the PCM driver circuit. They're usually not diode protected.
@peelout40 i have a yamaha yzf600 motorcycle and my fuel pump relay keeps blowing..it controls my fuel pump that stop working n my start button does not work...therefore i have no fire 2 my plugs i checkd the fuel pump and a small screw was inside grounding out the fuel pump..wen i removed the screw i checked my fuel pump and it works again... now im wating 4 my fuel pump relay cause it was fried...i think i found my problem.....cars- bikes all works jus about the same...computer world...cool...
@thatcutndude1 Nice... I have a vacuum style with carburetor...no relays with my fuel system in my 1983 Kawi KZ550 GPz. Glad to see another rider riding again.
Great video and thanks for sharing the knowledge....Here is my scenario: my fuel pump is not engaging. I know that for a fact because the pump turns on when I run a hot wire from the battery to the wire coming out of the relay, to the pump....I have good fuel pressure in the rails, as I pressed the check valve and squirt is good....but the car still will not crack.... Have replaced, rotor, module, coil-pickup, distributor cap; in essence, I have a good spark at the tip of the plugs. HELP!
@torau666 thanks for the tip on that, but i have compression and spark at the plugs, because the engine fires right up when i spray starting fluid. I did discover that the 'fuel pump/ecm' fuse was blown; i replaced the fuse, but no crank and car dies as soon as starting spray is gone...I have even replaced the ECM, after concluding that fuel injectors were not dispersing fuel...Is there a component between the ECM and the Injectors that may be hindering ground pulses? Thanks torau666.
@torau666@torau666 thanks for the tip on that, but i have compression and spark at the plugs, because the engine fires right up when i spray starting fluid. I did discover that the 'fuel pump/ecm' fuse was blown; i replaced the fuse, but no crank and car dies as soon as starting spray is gone...I have even replaced the ECM, after concluding that fuel injectors were not dispersing fuel...Is there a component between the ECM and the Injectors that may be hindering ground pulses? Thanks torau
@BandidoNunez Did you recheck the fuse to make sure it did not blow again? You never mentioned how/if you checked fuel pressure, need 35 psi to run most cars out there. Tuning the key to the "ON" position the fuel pump should run for about 3 seconds, that primes the system, (on many cars)
@ryanwm80 thank you for your help My 99 suburban have 151,000 miles on it I got new spark plug,air filter and fuel filter cause when I sprayed it with starting fluid it start and run normally.I drive it to work every day by spraying that starting fluid I got a 5.7L so I'm thinking it could be that I have to take the intake manifold of and check the fuel pressure regulator valve underneath it. what do you think about that? is it the fuel pump.
@jasonkesk: this is one of those parts that goes by two or more different names, maybe because Ford called it the ICRM (Integrated Control Relay Module) in the first Taurus model--ryanwm80 has a first generation Taurus, and when the second generation was released, Ford may have started to call it the CCRM.
Many people have bad fuel pumps, but can get the car started by "banging on the gas tank" (or pump if in another location) The car may then run perfectly for weeks, with a bad pump. The pump will pass all tests perfectly (fuel pressure, amp draw, etc)
I have never found a way to test a pump that is perfect one day and bad the next, then perfect again. Since this is often the case, this test you show may not be enough. Any ideas on how to test a pump like the one I described?
Many people have bad fuel pumps, but can get the car started by "banging on the gas tank" (or pump if in another location) The car may then run perfectly for weeks, with a bad pump. The pump will pass all tests perfectly (fuel pressure, amp draw, etc)
I have never found a way to test a pump that is perfect one day and bad the next, then perfect again. Since this is often the case, this test you show may not be enough. Any ideas on how to test a pump like the one I described?
You said that if the pump comes on when you give it power, that the pump isn't bad. I don't think I can agree with that.
Many (if not most) times fuel pumps go bad in stages. So it will work perfect one day, then won't, then perfect again, etc. A pump can test perfectly and still be bad. This is often the case. It will give good fuel pressure, draw the proper # of amps, etc. but still be bad. Therefore, in the case of many pumps, there is really no test that can be done.
I'm having the same problem as ibanezgera, and wondering if it's the module or the pump. Did anyone have a response for this problem? Also have a 2001 Mountaineer.
I Have a 2001 Mountaineer with a 5.0 ltr, it runs fine in regular wheather but as soon as wheather is cold well it don't start. It doesn't seem to be the battery or starter because it cranks and cranks but just wont start. If i leave it until the afternoon when wheather temp. rises then it starts and runs great just like it never had any problem. when it doesn't start I tried to turn key on & off about 20 times but still nothing happens. could it be a module or my pump? Any help would be great
@ibanezgera I would look at yer cap and rotor first, see if it's cracked and has moisture in it when it's wet out. Could be shorting yer spark to ground instead of to the plugs. Do this before you go poking around with the fuel pump. On a side note, I don't know if the 2001 Fords still used a cap and rotor, I'm a Chevy guy. Just a tip.
interesting video but i have to agree that very few people will even comprehed how this is even done, also your showing one car , so its good for the one your working on but gm volvos and other such cars other fords will not even be built using the same unit or in the same place but it is a good thing to show for thoes that have the same car as yours so good video there for sure
nice vid!.. what happens if you have a low compression in all cylinders.
the car won't start now but before that, is was running good. until rough idle, then it died. when i opened the gas tank there was no pressure. the spark plugs are new.
i have a 97 t-bird lx idk what it is...like when i try 2 start it takes about 2 times till it start and then when n drive the car shakes and the rpm drops or when i stop is shake & sometimes in park it shakes ANY HELP
there is an easier way than removing the harness and having to rebuilt it after you fix the relay for an emergency. you can just cut the wire and hook up the 12 volts, and then after you replace the relay just slice the wire back in place with a connector. If you are in an emergency situation, you may not have those kinds of tools, but a wire splice would be much easier.
I have the ls400 the engine was running smooth and was very fast, but now it wont run more than 75-80 mph and when ever I stop and about to take off it shakes, and my engine is run rough...check engine is on ,also I smell fuel from the exhaust, auto zone code+ lean exhaust I dont really know what to do cz it burns so much fuel with less mile... please help, I am student and no money left over to PAY FOR MECHANIST......
I have an 88 conquest tsi.I get spark on all cylinders
but still doesn turn on.I think i have a fuel delivery problem.I have new battery,New dizz,New rotor,NEw distributer car,New spark plugs,New spark plug wires,
coil is ok,New alternator.Its a project im working on can any one help.If its my injectors or fuel pump or icr.
55 degrees last night...its 12 degrees right now. and i have to do this before work tomorrow
solidSHAKEgo 3 weeks ago
ITS A FORD. NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
MrJSU2010 2 months ago 2
u should get a honda
1035honda 2 months ago
Thanks for the video. I found it useful. Don't be put off by some idiot comments.
ihategeorgebushjr 3 months ago
LOL Just CUT the pink wire in the middle, strip it back a little and hook it up that way. "TA-DAAA" ! 1) faster -in emercency situation 2) Easier to fix back later.
TheMrLabyrinth 4 months ago
I bet this guy takes it up the cornhole
OSDCrusher 5 months ago
@OSDCrusher That is between U and him don't us about your relationship problems.
MuzikMichael 1 month ago
Wut about for a 94 chevy caprice classic lt1 i spent so much on parts when i should have taken it to a shop hit me up on twitter or fb i could use da help @boochamberlain fb donald lilboo williams
MrWTF337 7 months ago
Please note that the relay control module is specific to a few Ford vehicles, and is not present on most cars. Relays are typically controlled by the PCM (Powertrain control module), and you should NEVER start jumpering wires on a PCM connector without a very good understanding of automotive electronics and a good wiring diagram. You'll just fry it and end up spending hundreds of dollars at the local shop actually getting the problem fixed by a professional.
10MickeyMouse 7 months ago
@10MickeyMouse being the power was connected direct to fuel pump and not to "PCM" it will not matter. this is a great trick
myfagan 1 month ago
@myfagan Yeah, so long as you get the correct wires. That is my point. Accidentally send battery voltage back down the ground control side, you can damage the the PCM driver circuit. They're usually not diode protected.
10MickeyMouse 1 week ago
YEAH I RYD HARD..ILL PUT SUM VIDZ UP SOON AS I CAN ON MY XR650 DATZ A MONSTER
thatcutndude1 7 months ago
Little black box...ah so many problems...
peelout40 8 months ago
@peelout40 i have a yamaha yzf600 motorcycle and my fuel pump relay keeps blowing..it controls my fuel pump that stop working n my start button does not work...therefore i have no fire 2 my plugs i checkd the fuel pump and a small screw was inside grounding out the fuel pump..wen i removed the screw i checked my fuel pump and it works again... now im wating 4 my fuel pump relay cause it was fried...i think i found my problem.....cars- bikes all works jus about the same...computer world...cool...
thatcutndude1 7 months ago
@thatcutndude1 Nice... I have a vacuum style with carburetor...no relays with my fuel system in my 1983 Kawi KZ550 GPz. Glad to see another rider riding again.
peelout40 7 months ago
your neighborhood looks damn awesome....where do you live if you dont mind me asking
jhaze918 8 months ago
Great video and thanks for sharing the knowledge....Here is my scenario: my fuel pump is not engaging. I know that for a fact because the pump turns on when I run a hot wire from the battery to the wire coming out of the relay, to the pump....I have good fuel pressure in the rails, as I pressed the check valve and squirt is good....but the car still will not crack.... Have replaced, rotor, module, coil-pickup, distributor cap; in essence, I have a good spark at the tip of the plugs. HELP!
BandidoNunez 8 months ago
@BandidoNunez then theres no compression - air, do a compression test
torau666 8 months ago
@torau666 thanks for the tip on that, but i have compression and spark at the plugs, because the engine fires right up when i spray starting fluid. I did discover that the 'fuel pump/ecm' fuse was blown; i replaced the fuse, but no crank and car dies as soon as starting spray is gone...I have even replaced the ECM, after concluding that fuel injectors were not dispersing fuel...Is there a component between the ECM and the Injectors that may be hindering ground pulses? Thanks torau666.
BandidoNunez 8 months ago
@torau666 @torau666 thanks for the tip on that, but i have compression and spark at the plugs, because the engine fires right up when i spray starting fluid. I did discover that the 'fuel pump/ecm' fuse was blown; i replaced the fuse, but no crank and car dies as soon as starting spray is gone...I have even replaced the ECM, after concluding that fuel injectors were not dispersing fuel...Is there a component between the ECM and the Injectors that may be hindering ground pulses? Thanks torau
BandidoNunez 8 months ago
@BandidoNunez Did you recheck the fuse to make sure it did not blow again? You never mentioned how/if you checked fuel pressure, need 35 psi to run most cars out there. Tuning the key to the "ON" position the fuel pump should run for about 3 seconds, that primes the system, (on many cars)
Autotechviewpoint 5 months ago
what drives the fuel pumps?
cescagag002 9 months ago
@ryanwm80 thank you for your help My 99 suburban have 151,000 miles on it I got new spark plug,air filter and fuel filter cause when I sprayed it with starting fluid it start and run normally.I drive it to work every day by spraying that starting fluid I got a 5.7L so I'm thinking it could be that I have to take the intake manifold of and check the fuel pressure regulator valve underneath it. what do you think about that? is it the fuel pump.
goodson305 10 months ago
@jasonkesk: this is one of those parts that goes by two or more different names, maybe because Ford called it the ICRM (Integrated Control Relay Module) in the first Taurus model--ryanwm80 has a first generation Taurus, and when the second generation was released, Ford may have started to call it the CCRM.
JohnMSawyer 11 months ago
Many people have bad fuel pumps, but can get the car started by "banging on the gas tank" (or pump if in another location) The car may then run perfectly for weeks, with a bad pump. The pump will pass all tests perfectly (fuel pressure, amp draw, etc)
I have never found a way to test a pump that is perfect one day and bad the next, then perfect again. Since this is often the case, this test you show may not be enough. Any ideas on how to test a pump like the one I described?
romansten9 1 year ago
Many people have bad fuel pumps, but can get the car started by "banging on the gas tank" (or pump if in another location) The car may then run perfectly for weeks, with a bad pump. The pump will pass all tests perfectly (fuel pressure, amp draw, etc)
I have never found a way to test a pump that is perfect one day and bad the next, then perfect again. Since this is often the case, this test you show may not be enough. Any ideas on how to test a pump like the one I described?
romansten9 1 year ago
@romansten9 You would need to perform a current ramping test with an oscilloscope.
Clip a current probe around the fuel pumps positive terminal and connect that to a scope and on a faulty one you will see a jagged waveform.
Bushougoma 11 months ago
You said that if the pump comes on when you give it power, that the pump isn't bad. I don't think I can agree with that.
Many (if not most) times fuel pumps go bad in stages. So it will work perfect one day, then won't, then perfect again, etc. A pump can test perfectly and still be bad. This is often the case. It will give good fuel pressure, draw the proper # of amps, etc. but still be bad. Therefore, in the case of many pumps, there is really no test that can be done.
romansten9 1 year ago
that air box is HUGE
kreigsmann 1 year ago
One thing I'd add, It would be a good idea to disconnect the neg terminal from the battery before poking around in that harness
midlantic1 1 year ago
Pretty slick trick man. Nice vid.
beefystik 1 year ago
I'm having the same problem as ibanezgera, and wondering if it's the module or the pump. Did anyone have a response for this problem? Also have a 2001 Mountaineer.
ronniesim1 1 year ago
its called a ccrm (constant control relay module) not the ircm
jasonkesk 1 year ago
u can hear but we cant lol...
Xjaiver 1 year ago
i can't believe that this video has been watched 119k times.
reconciled2God 1 year ago
too slow im goin
themonk7329 1 year ago
I Have a 2001 Mountaineer with a 5.0 ltr, it runs fine in regular wheather but as soon as wheather is cold well it don't start. It doesn't seem to be the battery or starter because it cranks and cranks but just wont start. If i leave it until the afternoon when wheather temp. rises then it starts and runs great just like it never had any problem. when it doesn't start I tried to turn key on & off about 20 times but still nothing happens. could it be a module or my pump? Any help would be great
ibanezgera 1 year ago
@ibanezgera I would look at yer cap and rotor first, see if it's cracked and has moisture in it when it's wet out. Could be shorting yer spark to ground instead of to the plugs. Do this before you go poking around with the fuel pump. On a side note, I don't know if the 2001 Fords still used a cap and rotor, I'm a Chevy guy. Just a tip.
beefystik 1 year ago
did you know that the ford taurus sold more parts for the car than the acctual car that how much garbo ford is im a chevy man
MegaVeenz 1 year ago
interesting video but i have to agree that very few people will even comprehed how this is even done, also your showing one car , so its good for the one your working on but gm volvos and other such cars other fords will not even be built using the same unit or in the same place but it is a good thing to show for thoes that have the same car as yours so good video there for sure
KevinMillard68 1 year ago
Great video, man! Never had this problem but it's always good to know things like this.
eldom20 1 year ago
nice vid!.. what happens if you have a low compression in all cylinders.
the car won't start now but before that, is was running good. until rough idle, then it died. when i opened the gas tank there was no pressure. the spark plugs are new.
normanem206 1 year ago
@normanem206 a low comp reading will tell you the following. -bad valves, burnt valves, bad rings, bad head gaskets or blown gaskets.
BOBKB3NZX 1 year ago
that s nice trick
feriwala07 1 year ago
very good !!
stormloader909 1 year ago
.
so they lie when they say to disconnect the battery when working electrial components / wires??
-.-
EssedariusMaiestas 1 year ago
@EssedariusMaiestas thats for goofs that cant keep wires from touching an shorting stuff out
boogdennard 1 year ago
that a great tip thanks
gar5952010 1 year ago
that's very creative tip man, thanks
compgrad1 1 year ago
your a g, can you upload more please bruh
nicenow25 1 year ago
great demo. thanks for sharing.
frygreenie 1 year ago
good info.
betertoak 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
I THINK THIS GENTLEMAN LIKES IT UP THE POOM POOM > SHIT PUSHED IN
shakespir23 1 year ago
Excellent info. man. Thanks for uploading.
richdad360 1 year ago
i have a 97 t-bird lx idk what it is...like when i try 2 start it takes about 2 times till it start and then when n drive the car shakes and the rpm drops or when i stop is shake & sometimes in park it shakes ANY HELP
trevonlovesciara 1 year ago
there is an easier way than removing the harness and having to rebuilt it after you fix the relay for an emergency. you can just cut the wire and hook up the 12 volts, and then after you replace the relay just slice the wire back in place with a connector. If you are in an emergency situation, you may not have those kinds of tools, but a wire splice would be much easier.
truthtone58 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
I have the ls400 the engine was running smooth and was very fast, but now it wont run more than 75-80 mph and when ever I stop and about to take off it shakes, and my engine is run rough...check engine is on ,also I smell fuel from the exhaust, auto zone code+ lean exhaust I dont really know what to do cz it burns so much fuel with less mile... please help, I am student and no money left over to PAY FOR MECHANIST......
matikotif5 1 year ago
thanks a lot !! excellent explanation
domyaska 2 years ago
nice
hugohuevos 2 years ago
Why did you use the alternator when you were working RIGHT beside the battery?
walkerscranger 2 years ago 2
@walkerscranger--Because a clamp made for the size of a joint is not likely to fit around a battery terminal..lol
beatsbytheory 2 years ago 2
@beatsbytheory It's an alligator clip, it will clip onto the battery. It will fit... I guess he just wasn't thinking.
walkerscranger 2 years ago
U just saved me 800 dollars.The car needed a new
fuel pump, injectors are leaking at times but its just better to replace.20 year old injectors fuel pump it just doesnt
mix, the fuel pump turns on if i jump start it.Thanx for the video.
jjhonnyem626 2 years ago
I have an 88 conquest tsi.I get spark on all cylinders
but still doesn turn on.I think i have a fuel delivery problem.I have new battery,New dizz,New rotor,NEw distributer car,New spark plugs,New spark plug wires,
coil is ok,New alternator.Its a project im working on can any one help.If its my injectors or fuel pump or icr.
jjhonnyem626 2 years ago
yep its you fuel pump
panth0091 2 years ago
def a fuel or ignition timing problem( If carburated)
lovemym16 2 years ago
good advice! always check the relay first.
THEoriginalRIcHARDS 2 years ago 2
very useful
5Dale65 2 years ago
great job man
nhraim 2 years ago
thats good stuff man it seems like its also helpfull when you install a new alarm system an u cant shut it off n you need to move
ggemjakio 2 years ago
great video, tks
tiagomartinho77 3 years ago