Added: 4 years ago
From: AsktheBuilder
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  • That was helpful. Thanks!

  • This video is very helpful for a do-it-yourself scenario.

    Thanks a lot for sharing it.

  • Thanks, Tim!

    I'm removing busted-up plaster inner walls of my house and installing drywall. The exterior wall sheathing is tongue-and-groove; the interstices between the two are totally uninsulated. Should I be concerned that insulating will stop the airflow within the wall and cause wood rot from moisture buildup (the moisture coming from in or out) ? Perhaps this is unfounded, but the exterior sheathing is in such good condition despite its age, and I'm afraid I might ruin a good thing!

  • add any additional batts, just blow more insulation. It's even better for sidewall use. My professional opinion; have a nice day.

  • Blown cellulose insulation into an open joist (or even a kneewall attic, with the help of some sort of holder) is the best choice. I've worked with a guy who's been doing it for 25+ years and nothing about any kind of health problems have arisen to his knowledge. The cellulose they make now has fire retardents, bug repellants, and if installed correctly filles all gaps and voids. Plus if you live in a colder climate and need to have your attic insulated to a R-38 or higher you won't have to..

  • Because it is made of the same material as paper, blown cellulose insulation apparently has added to it a fire retardant. Could this fire retardant conceivably represent a cancer risk, a few decades down the road? After all, while it is placed into the attic, or the walls, I'm sure that particles of this material will eventually make their way throughout the entire home. Have you ever heard anything about this possibility?

  • Read my past columns about cellulose insulation at my AsktheBuilder website for the answer and more. Use my search engine to discover the articles and more.

  • Improvements to inslation have the potential to cut energy needs by two thirds

  • You can't get away with a comment like that without hard proof. Can you share the location of the independent test data that supports what you say? I'd love to know about this magic material.

  • @AsktheBuilder

    I think he is referring to modern insulation boards or foam solutions. With foam I would i'm sure 2/3's is possible in a place where insulation is difficult to apply like thin studs or around pipe etc.

  • @pegobuilders what? AeroGel? it cost like 50$ per feetquare...

  • Good video - There's just one thing I would change. In milder climates a 6 mil polyethylene vapor retarder is not recommended. The kraft paper or even no VR is good.

  • I just bought a house that has the insulation installed in the attic upside down. The vapor barrier is facing toward the inside of the house. Should I flip all this over, or is it not a big deal?

  • Vapor barriers should face the warm side of the wall. But ceilings should not have a vapor barrier. Read my past columns about attic insulation at my website to understand why.

  • I just bought a house that has insulation installed in the attic upside down. The vapor barrier is facing the inside of the house. Should I waste time flipping all this over, or is it not a big deal?

  • Plastic is more than a vapor barrier, it is also a moisture barrier. Lot of mold lawsuits on houses that used plastic.

  • I liked the video..an excellent primer for people,like me.

  • WOW If your using a tape measure and 2X4, you are either going to have all day to do it, get paid by the hour or not have a clue how to hang the stuff. And splitting the insulation for every wire in a wall...don't know any pro who would do that unless you are paying extra.

  • Sigh.... It's because of people like you that I make videos like this. Yes you can buy precut insulation for standard height walls. But what about when you have to go under windows and other odd-sized cavities? The 2x4 is for people who don't have the pro knife. I explained that. None of us wants to hear your complaints when you move into a house and the drain lines leak because the apprentice plumber has the same attitude about PVC primer as you have for splitting the batts around cables.

  • spliting wires is really important because of r value and friction/poly is the best complete moisture barrier ensures insulation is visibly there kraft can hide alot of voids blocker ends are also a main consern should have a barrier must be fire retardent fsk barrier is the best never lose your barrier and make sure its fire protective if exposed and fiberglass is just as good and cheaper than anything on the market

  • Good Video but very poor product to use in the average 21st Century home. Fiberglass is a poor insulating product, and also a very unhealthy product. Good Video Bad Product Choice.

  • utter garbage.Fiberglass is an excellent insulator when installed correctly.Granted PIR Rigid Insulation is superb with a requirement to reduce the depth of panel eg. loft conversions, it cannot compete with glass fibre economically.Quilt is far easier for the novice.

    unhealthy? Its made of recycled glass bottles and sand. rot-proof, odourless, non-hygroscopicand will not encourage the growth bacteria. chemically neutral and doesnt contain impurities.

  • I agree 150%. I was waiting for the cavalry to arrive!

  • Excellent video but I would also discussed radiant barriers and humity issues for Southern homes. Also the video glitches detracted from the message.

  • This information was very informative. Thank you, my anwer regarding how to insulate around romex was great.

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