I have a beautiful curly maple stock.I want to say it was finished in the 70s.Judgeing on the work on the gun.It has alot of the lines or soft grain.foregive me I dont know the right terms.I would like to refinish it but dont really know how to start.If it was a cheap stock I would just cand the clear coat of and stain it.This thing is a piece of art as far as I conserned.If anyone can help it would be great...thnx
Transtint dye works great for any kind of maple, it also works well on all other woods. You can mix it with alcohol or water. I haven't used "stain" for years now because of how easy it is to use.
Have you ever hand cut dove tails like Roy Underhill does on the wood wrights shop? Are there any tips you can suggest on doing it? No matter how hard I try I cant make it even and all the same depth and clean and neat. My dove tale joints are so hirable. Can you help me?
Get yourself a router and a "through dovetail" jig. You can make almost perfect pin's and tails without wanting to pull your hair out. It may not be the "old school" way to do it, but it sure saves time and effort. And you will LOVE the results!
I have some tiger maple that I'll use this on, first tried it on some QSWO -- guess what, it worked GREAT. Followed with coats of amber shellac and finished with brushed on lacquer. Best finish I've achieved with QSWO yet, wish I'd watched this video before I built one set of cabinets. Fortunately, it's just in time for the main set of cabinets. Thanks!
This seem like it would work great on a table top or an item with a lot of flat area but might be hard to do on a finished product such as a cabinet with raised panels or mouldings ...preventing a sander to sand very well after it is assembled. Is this primarily for flat surface work?
Raised panels,mouldings ,turned legs ,etc are done prior to assembly,and keeping the flat easy to reach parts for after final assembly,We sand alot of our pieces and parts prior to assembly so as to avoid hard to reach areas as you mentioned
Boiled Linseed Oil can be applied after the dyes to help add depth, problem is blo doesnt dry to well, try a good oil that dries,waterlox, General Finishes Seal a cell,formbys tung,also try a blond shellac at about a 1/2 lb cut and massage it in well,then top caot and it will pop,shellac dries very fast and allows you to keep on moving, oils need over nite, blo needs several days to a week
It's actually a brown water base dye, in this video it was WD Lockwood, don't remember the color but General Finishes has a line of cherry oil and water base stains that really do well on cherry, you'll just have to pick the color you want. Charles
Yes, unless we are going with a natural finish, we always use this technique. It really makes a big difference and I can't tell you how much easier it makes sanding and allowing you to know that sanding is complete when you go to the finish room. Of late, we've been using General Finishes water based stains on woods where we don't want a lot of penetration (splotching) sanding and then use the same stain for final coloring.
thanks a lot, very interesting !
MrLanriec 6 months ago
wow! there's no idiot comments on these pages !
davetileguy 9 months ago
I have a beautiful curly maple stock.I want to say it was finished in the 70s.Judgeing on the work on the gun.It has alot of the lines or soft grain.foregive me I dont know the right terms.I would like to refinish it but dont really know how to start.If it was a cheap stock I would just cand the clear coat of and stain it.This thing is a piece of art as far as I conserned.If anyone can help it would be great...thnx
bigge0369 1 year ago
so should I stain it sand and stain again? what's difference between stain & dye?
themomo6710 1 year ago
i have used this same method on wood with green rit dyr that you would buy for like clothing. it came out really cool looking.
lucasmorter 1 year ago
awesome
cornflakesnwater 1 year ago
"Sand your brains out" LOL I só know what you mean.. Just sanding 3 days in a row..damn.
Mueiwark 1 year ago
Transtint dye works great for any kind of maple, it also works well on all other woods. You can mix it with alcohol or water. I haven't used "stain" for years now because of how easy it is to use.
Great video by the way!!
TheBuilder65 2 years ago
charles thank you for sharing your knowledge......
besamemucho5 2 years ago 2
Awesome Video. What color of dye did you use on the test piece in this video? That's the color I'm looking for. Thanks Again.
Virgil605 2 years ago
Have you ever hand cut dove tails like Roy Underhill does on the wood wrights shop? Are there any tips you can suggest on doing it? No matter how hard I try I cant make it even and all the same depth and clean and neat. My dove tale joints are so hirable. Can you help me?
56TonyT 3 years ago
56TonyT;
Get yourself a router and a "through dovetail" jig. You can make almost perfect pin's and tails without wanting to pull your hair out. It may not be the "old school" way to do it, but it sure saves time and effort. And you will LOVE the results!
TheBuilder65 2 years ago
great video Thanks
Darrylk123 3 years ago
Yes "Japan" driers....it causes the finishes to harden into a solid instead of remaining in a softer less protective state
InTheWorkshop 3 years ago
when you say you use a modified tung oil, in which way is it modified?
alianne 3 years ago
it has some added resin and driers...not the lead driers...I like finishes that dry well
InTheWorkshop 3 years ago
this is great info. I like tiger maple, however, in the past, it was dumb luck that ever got me even halfway close to what I wanted.
The dyes and such that you use are interesting in the stages you use them in. It will be interesting to see the results.
I hope I don't mess up such good wood.
Also, when you had to make a crooked board, just to straighten it, I figured you were worth watching.
thanks
jws54 3 years ago
I have some tiger maple that I'll use this on, first tried it on some QSWO -- guess what, it worked GREAT. Followed with coats of amber shellac and finished with brushed on lacquer. Best finish I've achieved with QSWO yet, wish I'd watched this video before I built one set of cabinets. Fortunately, it's just in time for the main set of cabinets. Thanks!
kdouglaslee 3 years ago
This seem like it would work great on a table top or an item with a lot of flat area but might be hard to do on a finished product such as a cabinet with raised panels or mouldings ...preventing a sander to sand very well after it is assembled. Is this primarily for flat surface work?
(great videos!)
59Gretsch 4 years ago
Raised panels,mouldings ,turned legs ,etc are done prior to assembly,and keeping the flat easy to reach parts for after final assembly,We sand alot of our pieces and parts prior to assembly so as to avoid hard to reach areas as you mentioned
InTheWorkshop 4 years ago
would blo pop the grain as much also? i've used it but don't seem to get the same results.
toddj99 4 years ago
Boiled Linseed Oil can be applied after the dyes to help add depth, problem is blo doesnt dry to well, try a good oil that dries,waterlox, General Finishes Seal a cell,formbys tung,also try a blond shellac at about a 1/2 lb cut and massage it in well,then top caot and it will pop,shellac dries very fast and allows you to keep on moving, oils need over nite, blo needs several days to a week
InTheWorkshop 4 years ago
Thank you very much, I think I'll try the shellac.
toddj99 4 years ago
Charlie, what brand of dye do you use to get that Cherry color? Thanks much.
Clockmaker46 4 years ago
It's actually a brown water base dye, in this video it was WD Lockwood, don't remember the color but General Finishes has a line of cherry oil and water base stains that really do well on cherry, you'll just have to pick the color you want. Charles
InTheWorkshop 4 years ago
Good deal, thanks for the reply Charles and good luck.
Clockmaker46 4 years ago
Would this also work on regular wood grain to enhance the grain? Thanks
killersoundz 4 years ago
Yes, unless we are going with a natural finish, we always use this technique. It really makes a big difference and I can't tell you how much easier it makes sanding and allowing you to know that sanding is complete when you go to the finish room. Of late, we've been using General Finishes water based stains on woods where we don't want a lot of penetration (splotching) sanding and then use the same stain for final coloring.
InTheWorkshop 4 years ago
Thanks for taking the time to write a response, Charles. I can't wait to try the technique out.
killersoundz 4 years ago
Great video, thanks Charlie.
Clockmaker46 4 years ago
Awesome tips! thank you
killersoundz 4 years ago
excellent material. Makes it look easy! Now I just have to find some neat maple.
kksw9 4 years ago