Hey, Gavin! Love the video! What metering method do you use in your camera? Evaluative - Partial - Spot or Center Weight? Do I have to use different metering If I use not one, but two or more light?
hey gavin..amazing video..i just luved it....i have a question which i want to clear that you told us in the video to keep the reading in the camera as where the subject is...does this mean we keep the f number in the camera as the f number which came in the light meter???...thanks
Hi Gavin, just wondering with a slightly different scenario where you have the infinite white backdrop. You lightup the back just as in this example but would you need to light the ground where your model is standing as well or not? Will there be a visible difference in the brightness or will your lighting from softbox umbrella etc on your model also fill that in.
Please help me.. I have two umbrella lights and need some advice on how to make sure the background is white. They are both continuous light with no adjuster. And my with backdrop is a white muslin. I would really appreciate any feedback. I am also on a bit of a budget right now, so can't afford to add any extras at this moment.
Please help me.. I have two umbrella lights and need some advice on how to make sure the background is white. They are both continuous light with no adjuster. I would really appreciate any feedback. I am also on a bit of a budget right now, so can't afford to add any extras at this moment.
@pjos111 F = Aperture, meaning the opening size of the shutter. The light meter was telling you the perfect opening you need with that amount of light source. So the first light (Softbox) was giving a reading of F11, which means the opening of the camera needs to be that setting. For the pure white background, you need to double the light on the background. That's why he had the light bright enough to give a reading of F22, meaning that the background would be brighter than the model herself:)
What brand and light did you use for the background light as I need one that is not super expensive. Or can I create a setup of my own much cheaper that can give me the option of changing the intensity of light as dictated by the light meter.
@keter1234 He was using studio strobes-the light bulbs are just the modeling lights, so you can see the effect, but they have no/minimal effect on the picture.
I just bought a battery grip for my Canon T2i. I have two batteries. One is the Canon OEM Lithium Battery that comes with the camera. And another one is a different brand. The Canon battery has 7.2V and the other one is 7.4V. Do you think these two batteries could come together in the grip? Will it not damage my camera?
I asked this because one of amazon customer said he bought a battery that's 7.4V and it's giving him wrong battery life bars in the cameras LCD.
Dear Gavin... watch your tutorials all the time and learnt alot from your tutorials when it comes to camera work... can i ask... can you do a tutorial like this but how to get a pure black background please... i seem to end up with a grey background and setting the camera to underexpose just causes poor lighting on the model. Please help. Regards Simon
i know the sceinece behind it, and how 1 stop is twice the previos etc, but what thing that baffles me is this. on my camera, the lower the f number = biggerapeture or more light. so how come when people talk about lighting, the higher the f number = brighter or more light??
i know the sceinece behind it, and how 1 stop is twice the previos etc, but what thing that baffles me is this. on my camera, the lower the f number = biggerapeture or more light. so how come when people talk about lighting, the higher the f number = brighter or more light??
Gavin I just love your tutorials, I find them extremely interesting, and I find your way of explaining things just so inspiring. Keep up the good work mate, too bad there arent any dubed versions of your clips on youtube, because I really believe it hould be very usefull to people who love photography in my country, Portugal.
I must admit to thinking this was going to be a waste of time video.....but it's not,it's actually very good and the best explanation of shooting onto a white back on youtube.
Yeah this guy is using tea bag backgrounds, not very good. also how can you light the whole bg with just one light? i have to use two tota flood lights..
I love your tutorials!!! You are soooo helpful! I have a question though. I am looking for some budget lighting but I know nothing about lighting...do I need a constant light? a strobe light? What kiind are you using in this video? What kind do you recommend? I'm in a rut!
Thanks Gavin your videos are great. Very informative. You are also the only guy on here to talk about using the light meter for the white background. Thanks for your help.
I used to think you have to go pay a lot money 2 have this type of picture taken. But all you need is a pure white background and 2lights and a 10maga pixel camera or higher!! and you can make yourself look like you do modeling!!
But he's right, if you take pictures just a white background alone it'll look grayish white. :(
@PhotoGavin gavin, how do u solve the clipping on the edge of the hair? when u have limited space to move the subject further from the background. When i lower down the power of the back light, it gives me uneven white color, so i cant really lower down the backlight power. Any other thought? thanks!
You need to study Dean Collin's Chromozone system for more accurate background metering. Once you know this...there is no trial and error. You can 100% predict what you will be seeing in the finished photograph. I have not used incident metering of a background in 15 years. MUCH more accurate a system
@dontxtalk: Try using a daylight balanced fluorescent light for the background. It's cooler than the flash so with WB set for flash your background should light blue.
Proper technique: 1) incident reading on background 1/3 to 1/2 stop over camera setting, check for uniformity across the entire background. 2) incident reading of background bounced light onto the subject. 3) If the bounced light coming back to the subject from the flashed background exceeds the camera setting which was derived from the key light setting, it will probably cause lens flare and reduced contrast. To fix, reduce the background light until this is no longer the case.
For pure white when measuring incident use 1/3 stop higher, for reflective use 2.5 stops.
When doing incident at 2 stops the background will throw back light on the model and act as a big reflector/lamp and you'll blow away all the fine hair details.
Frank, that's good advice but it does depend on the type background being used. That background in the video was horrible (think big tea bag) and was binned.
I now use white vinyl which reflects more light, so I light it a lot less.
I also use Lastolite Highlites which are amazing and need a different approach again.
Bottom line... Different set ups need different lighting techniques. Check the camera as you go and learn what works for you.
That's why you should use reflective metering, that takes into account the brightness and material of the background, so you have a steady start point without any need to guess or double check.
With incident you're never ever measuring the background.
With reflective you can use whatever background you want, be it gray, white or yellow and turn it into anything brightness wise you want.
Gavin, your videos are so awesome! I enjoy watching all of them and learned a great deal! You explain photography in such simple and easy-to-understand manner. Please keep up the good work!
From your video. Please can you confirm : 1st turn off background light, take a meter reading from the main light, reading of f11. Turn on background light, take a reading from that. At this stage do you still keep the main light on or do you turn it off?
Hi. I would say that 2 stops over is too much. Unless you can put your subject a good bit in front of the background, most people will find that this produces poor definition on the edge of the subject due to reflected light. The generally accepted amount of overexposure for the background is about a half to one stop.
Otherwise a very good video and quite fun to watch, Thanks Gavin
Black seems to be easier, IMHO. Just keep your subject far enough away from it so that the light ON the subject doesn't fall on the background too. Don't light the black whatsoever and it should be, well, black! Light the person, not the background for black. :)
I don't have an expensive lighting system (I do have four Nikon SB-800s and an SU-800 wireless commander), nor do I have a light meter. Is it still possible to have these results with my equipment?
Is there a particular type/brand of light meter you might recommend? Thanks!
Nice vid! just one thing do. you should have used barndoors or gotten som flags for the background light! unless you were aiming for the background to be a kind of backlight/hair/fill light! just would have been nice if you mentioned it. anyways great vid dood keep it up man!
I think we are both using the Elincrom set, I usually set the large softbox at 45d to the backdrop, and the other softbox in front, I guess this is why I'm getting light drop off to the opposite side of the backdrop. When I set up I usually set the camera at F13 and 125. I did this by trial and error do I need a light metre like yours? The large softbox is set to 5.0 and the smaller one at the front to 1.7. I'm getting ok results, but still some editing required.
Yes I have several Elinchrom lights. If you only have one lamp at an angle the background will probably be a little greay on one side. You really need two lights to light a white background from the sides or hide the light behind the sitter like I did here. You don't need a light meter, it helps and looks more professional then trail & error.
that was great! but I'm confused on the background light being F22? Shouldn't it be ....nevermind...I think I just figured it out in my head.. LOL! Thanks for the video!!!
The principle is the same for constant (e.g. Tunsten lights).
You can't get whiter then pure white. The reason for two stops extra on the background is to iron out wrinkles, brigten dull white backgrounds and allow of light fall off at edges.
Hiya Gavin, i have one last question, i have noticed that you have put the spotlight behind the young model, What about a adult or group shot, would i need another light instead of one and would the rule apply to the same as the one light.
For small groups and full length shots I use two lights at the side. Fit a reflector, barn door or use a black "flag" to ensure no stray light hits the models.
I'll measure the light behind the subject. If it's a large group I'll measure the light in the centre AND at the edges,then try and position the lights to give the most even illumination. It's not always possible, and that's where a bit of Photoshop skill really helps.
Hey, Gavin! Love the video! What metering method do you use in your camera? Evaluative - Partial - Spot or Center Weight? Do I have to use different metering If I use not one, but two or more light?
Thank you!
954Lacko 1 month ago
Cool
Lincoshop 1 month ago
what's that F that shows in your light meter ?! I mean, what does F refer to ?! I also see it in Speedlight flash!
tamim4ever 2 months ago
I wonder if WhiteOptics would work for your application.
whiteoptics 3 months ago
hey gavin..amazing video..i just luved it....i have a question which i want to clear that you told us in the video to keep the reading in the camera as where the subject is...does this mean we keep the f number in the camera as the f number which came in the light meter???...thanks
saherkidwai 3 months ago
Wow amazing studio work.
vincecreek 3 months ago
GAVIN HOEY. YOU SAVED MY LIFE ! AND EARNED ME £250! THANK YOU SO MUCH! YOU ARE A GENIUS. THUMBS UP IF YOU AGREE!
alexmichael3d 3 months ago
Gotta love Gavin and his work. The accent is just a plus.
Zethux 4 months ago
Hi Gavin, just wondering with a slightly different scenario where you have the infinite white backdrop. You lightup the back just as in this example but would you need to light the ground where your model is standing as well or not? Will there be a visible difference in the brightness or will your lighting from softbox umbrella etc on your model also fill that in.
MYTRB 4 months ago
Gavin. Always the best source for anything pertaining to photography.
multibigpop 4 months ago
Thank you! I am self-taught and simple instructions like these are such a help!
momofthree 5 months ago
pedo =p
justjared135 6 months ago
Do you have an extra large shed for your studio? That's what it seems to be. :)
tardis1996 7 months ago
Please help me.. I have two umbrella lights and need some advice on how to make sure the background is white. They are both continuous light with no adjuster. And my with backdrop is a white muslin. I would really appreciate any feedback. I am also on a bit of a budget right now, so can't afford to add any extras at this moment.
lovemylenz 7 months ago
Please help me.. I have two umbrella lights and need some advice on how to make sure the background is white. They are both continuous light with no adjuster. I would really appreciate any feedback. I am also on a bit of a budget right now, so can't afford to add any extras at this moment.
lovemylenz 7 months ago
I feel like i could do this!
tordern22 8 months ago
Please help. What are the make and models of those lights and where can I find them? Brilliant work by the way
TheSalesmanIsCrazy 8 months ago
NEVER seen anyone shoot F11 in the studio. NEVER
KypHeM 8 months ago
Hi Gavin, just a quick question if i may.
I am looking to do portraits at home, but my room is only 13'x13'.
Do you recon its enough?
chrismallyon 9 months ago
@chrismallyon Yes.
suck307 9 months ago
Good Tutorial. Thanks.
mary12rose 9 months ago
Wheres F11 on the camera?
Nikateer 9 months ago
@Nikateer ...are you serious? If you don't know what f11 means, you should not be using a camera in manual mode:P
SunfireGTX25 9 months ago
@SunfireGTX25 I dont know n thats why I came here for help.
Nikateer 9 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Hey guys I've just started up my youtube vlog/photography channel if your interested come check it out updates every week (:
ZanmaruV2 10 months ago
What's that white background made of? it kind of looks like a paper-ish material?
mrakdot 10 months ago
what camera do you use?
iRamzess 10 months ago
What the hell happens at 2:59 ?
BIGPIMPINUPDANYC 11 months ago
Why is the reading in F? like F22
pjos111 11 months ago
@pjos111 F = Aperture, meaning the opening size of the shutter. The light meter was telling you the perfect opening you need with that amount of light source. So the first light (Softbox) was giving a reading of F11, which means the opening of the camera needs to be that setting. For the pure white background, you need to double the light on the background. That's why he had the light bright enough to give a reading of F22, meaning that the background would be brighter than the model herself:)
SunfireGTX25 9 months ago
@SunfireGTX25 Thanks for your reply. Its starting to make sense now.
pjos111 9 months ago
i love your videos :)
ChrisCrabbMagic 11 months ago
Gavin. is there a specific reason why your studio is all light hardwood? Just curious because I think it's very cool.
Ken
RichesAtHome 1 year ago
That was just I needed!!! Thank you. I am using d-lites too
bosstjanz 1 year ago
what did u use for a background?
rezrocknj 1 year ago
Nice vids keep up the good work!!!! but lmao @ the british smile @ 2:38 :D had to say it my bad :P
WESTWOODBEATS 1 year ago
you are awsome many thanks, the way you explained is easy to understand
marioneta213 1 year ago
Excellent tip.Thanks
What brand and light did you use for the background light as I need one that is not super expensive. Or can I create a setup of my own much cheaper that can give me the option of changing the intensity of light as dictated by the light meter.
I would appreciate your help in that a lot.
bambatadmi 1 year ago
Very informative! Thanks so much, Gavin.
jf73441 1 year ago
Thank you very much. Very informative. Many blessings.
whatelsesweetie 1 year ago
Gavin....will you be doing a video on the Lastolite Hi-Lite backgrounds ???
funkateer56 1 year ago
nice stuff
edwardolive 1 year ago
I don't have a meter reader device. How can I measure? Can I use camera to measure the f-stop? Thank you!
zoliky 1 year ago
What type of LIGHT BULBS do you use? Where do you get them. No one ever mentions this.
keter1234 1 year ago
@keter1234 He was using studio strobes-the light bulbs are just the modeling lights, so you can see the effect, but they have no/minimal effect on the picture.
cpovey1 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Help!!!
I just bought a battery grip for my Canon T2i. I have two batteries. One is the Canon OEM Lithium Battery that comes with the camera. And another one is a different brand. The Canon battery has 7.2V and the other one is 7.4V. Do you think these two batteries could come together in the grip? Will it not damage my camera?
I asked this because one of amazon customer said he bought a battery that's 7.4V and it's giving him wrong battery life bars in the cameras LCD.
criticaltinker 1 year ago
Dear Gavin... watch your tutorials all the time and learnt alot from your tutorials when it comes to camera work... can i ask... can you do a tutorial like this but how to get a pure black background please... i seem to end up with a grey background and setting the camera to underexpose just causes poor lighting on the model. Please help. Regards Simon
OffRoadNorthEast 1 year ago
Can you do this with Speedlites and a white cloth? :)
RyanTheTuber 1 year ago
Thanks a lot Gavy it was so helpful. cheers...
manmadha 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
i know the sceinece behind it, and how 1 stop is twice the previos etc, but what thing that baffles me is this. on my camera, the lower the f number = biggerapeture or more light. so how come when people talk about lighting, the higher the f number = brighter or more light??
adamburzynski 1 year ago
i know the sceinece behind it, and how 1 stop is twice the previos etc, but what thing that baffles me is this. on my camera, the lower the f number = biggerapeture or more light. so how come when people talk about lighting, the higher the f number = brighter or more light??
adamburzynski 1 year ago
Gavin I just love your tutorials, I find them extremely interesting, and I find your way of explaining things just so inspiring. Keep up the good work mate, too bad there arent any dubed versions of your clips on youtube, because I really believe it hould be very usefull to people who love photography in my country, Portugal.
miguelgaio 1 year ago
yes i did founded useful thanks for the tip.
will4r 1 year ago
your pictures have face overexposed if you noticed. Take a look around nose and eyes, also forhead
chernobila 1 year ago
I must admit to thinking this was going to be a waste of time video.....but it's not,it's actually very good and the best explanation of shooting onto a white back on youtube.
Well done. 10/10
kingphil1969 1 year ago
Thanks, very useful.
streetstaruk 1 year ago
thank you very much Gavin your tips are brilliant you are a natural teacher.
MrDigger1969 1 year ago
Yeah this guy is using tea bag backgrounds, not very good. also how can you light the whole bg with just one light? i have to use two tota flood lights..
rubent100 1 year ago
very informative, thanks!
arjunsajeev 1 year ago
great video..very informative :)
himefrias 1 year ago
Thank you Gavin, I have a light meter I will strat try to use
1california123 1 year ago
Great vid, thank you! Very informative.
ps- loved you as Mark Corrigan in Peep Show. :-P
knickzi 1 year ago
I don't know if this is my computer or not, but isn't the background too bright?
robib2 1 year ago
haha when hes speeded the vid up it was like he was a Sim XD
liamleonre4 1 year ago
You are the cutest. I love listening to your tutorials.
anandaflima 1 year ago
So the "secret" here is more light on the background than the model....
tpfaff6 1 year ago
BG 2 stops brighter than subject, very helpful info!
metolius 1 year ago
glad I found your channel!
TVlesliearnelle 1 year ago
I love your tutorials!!! You are soooo helpful! I have a question though. I am looking for some budget lighting but I know nothing about lighting...do I need a constant light? a strobe light? What kiind are you using in this video? What kind do you recommend? I'm in a rut!
sarahburket 1 year ago
Thank You!
ThreeDigitClothing 1 year ago
thank you, this was very useful!
AugyAtarashii 1 year ago
thanks
treeelee 1 year ago
Thanks Gavin your videos are great. Very informative. You are also the only guy on here to talk about using the light meter for the white background. Thanks for your help.
global001 2 years ago
I used to think you have to go pay a lot money 2 have this type of picture taken. But all you need is a pure white background and 2lights and a 10maga pixel camera or higher!! and you can make yourself look like you do modeling!!
But he's right, if you take pictures just a white background alone it'll look grayish white. :(
m33lad 2 years ago
Does anyone know how to make a white background blue? I have the blue filter, but when lighting the model, you flash out the blue of the background
dontxtalk 2 years ago
Trial & error, but try this.
Put the blue gel over the background light and turn the power right down.
Light your model so little or no light spills onto the background (havng them stand away from the background helps).
With a white background expect to see a pastel blue colour
PhotoGavin 2 years ago
Thanks for your help! I'll try
dontxtalk 2 years ago
@PhotoGavin gavin, how do u solve the clipping on the edge of the hair? when u have limited space to move the subject further from the background. When i lower down the power of the back light, it gives me uneven white color, so i cant really lower down the backlight power. Any other thought? thanks!
JoeCaliforniah 10 months ago
@PhotoGavin
You need to study Dean Collin's Chromozone system for more accurate background metering. Once you know this...there is no trial and error. You can 100% predict what you will be seeing in the finished photograph. I have not used incident metering of a background in 15 years. MUCH more accurate a system
brucehendricks 8 months ago
@dontxtalk: Try using a daylight balanced fluorescent light for the background. It's cooler than the flash so with WB set for flash your background should light blue.
oceandrew 2 years ago
@dontxtalk
turn down the light with the blue gel on, i found that worked for me...example f10 on subject and f7.1 on back ground..if using a white background
kentonphotografix 1 year ago
what about black backgrounds?
dongypro 2 years ago
Yes... I did find it useful.
Yes... it did work spot on.
Thanks for sharing, and end a lot of frustrations since Christmas.
IanLivesey 2 years ago
are the background and foreground lights continuous??
johnmajames1 2 years ago
sweet model :) Good introduction, but i would prefer much bigger softbox...
GotemCZ 2 years ago
nikon D700
nikonaazz 2 years ago
Proper technique: 1) incident reading on background 1/3 to 1/2 stop over camera setting, check for uniformity across the entire background. 2) incident reading of background bounced light onto the subject. 3) If the bounced light coming back to the subject from the flashed background exceeds the camera setting which was derived from the key light setting, it will probably cause lens flare and reduced contrast. To fix, reduce the background light until this is no longer the case.
famousPhotog 2 years ago
i agree with your comments. I experienced low contrast when i was in studio yesterday. Your comments are accurate.
cansam38 2 years ago
Hi,
For pure white when measuring incident use 1/3 stop higher, for reflective use 2.5 stops.
When doing incident at 2 stops the background will throw back light on the model and act as a big reflector/lamp and you'll blow away all the fine hair details.
Hope this helps a bit.
FrankDoorhof 2 years ago
Frank, that's good advice but it does depend on the type background being used. That background in the video was horrible (think big tea bag) and was binned.
I now use white vinyl which reflects more light, so I light it a lot less.
I also use Lastolite Highlites which are amazing and need a different approach again.
Bottom line... Different set ups need different lighting techniques. Check the camera as you go and learn what works for you.
PhotoGavin 2 years ago
Hi,
That's why you should use reflective metering, that takes into account the brightness and material of the background, so you have a steady start point without any need to guess or double check.
With incident you're never ever measuring the background.
With reflective you can use whatever background you want, be it gray, white or yellow and turn it into anything brightness wise you want.
It's also great to measure shadow areas.
FrankDoorhof 2 years ago
i agree with u......!
jazeesalim 2 years ago
This is one of the best and easiest tutorials I have found thus far. I am going to shoot a young girl soon. Thanks Gavin.
lorriehb 2 years ago
if I don't have the light metter how can I adjust the lights?
floryka 2 years ago
i love you gavin hoey!
abbeybinsf 2 years ago
Again you've made my day. Thank you Gavin.
culicacha 2 years ago
Gavin, I recently took some maternity photos and was so disappointed. You have cleared things up. Thank You
lorriehb 2 years ago
WOW I learned A LOT from such a short video! THANK YOU!
CLCortada 2 years ago
your model is the sweetest! and i learned something too!
photoman022 2 years ago
I went to school for this and test after test made me stupid. Watching you is a point and learn and never forget.
Donatillo1961 2 years ago
Gavin, your videos are so awesome! I enjoy watching all of them and learned a great deal! You explain photography in such simple and easy-to-understand manner. Please keep up the good work!
fruitkids 2 years ago
oh gavin,
you really are my hero!
thanks for all the tutorials and photoshop tutorials!
GAVIN = No.1
TheMaxExpress 2 years ago
could you used the camera light reading for this or should you really have a light meter...
barryjones2003 2 years ago
From your video. Please can you confirm : 1st turn off background light, take a meter reading from the main light, reading of f11. Turn on background light, take a reading from that. At this stage do you still keep the main light on or do you turn it off?
bowie2468 2 years ago
it would not matter as background light is brighter than the studio light
teenagefucker 2 years ago
thank you
fmashqur 2 years ago
Hi. I would say that 2 stops over is too much. Unless you can put your subject a good bit in front of the background, most people will find that this produces poor definition on the edge of the subject due to reflected light. The generally accepted amount of overexposure for the background is about a half to one stop.
Otherwise a very good video and quite fun to watch, Thanks Gavin
MrWooster5000 2 years ago
thanks
rekez2 2 years ago
Hi Gavin ,what lighting would you recommend buying ?say for around the 500 quid mark ...
rayhaslam 2 years ago
Comment removed
MrWooster5000 2 years ago
I prefer flash, but if that's your only two options, Flourescent has the advantage of being a lot less hot of the model.
PhotoGavin 2 years ago
Would you suggest tungsten or fluorescent?
Laurenk19 2 years ago
Hi Gavin, can you tell us what wattage your light lighting the back drop is ? , and what brand is that ? thanks very much.
FrostyTheBeerMan 2 years ago
In the information bar it says Elinchrom D-Lite. I'd also like to know the wattage.
jessi330 2 years ago
They are the 200w D-Lights
PhotoGavin 2 years ago
Lovely video, thanks for sharing !
classicalmusic03 2 years ago
NIce vid but terribe photo!
charlieT989 2 years ago
Are the lights set to continuous or flash?
puchovideo 2 years ago
very helpful! thanks!
gogoutube 2 years ago
Excellent, thanks for sharing.
2 F over, easy to remember!
Could you explain how to get the opposite as well, totally black?
Petterikoste 2 years ago
Black seems to be easier, IMHO. Just keep your subject far enough away from it so that the light ON the subject doesn't fall on the background too. Don't light the black whatsoever and it should be, well, black! Light the person, not the background for black. :)
EuroInvicta 2 years ago 2
Probably my flashes spill over to the bg or the room is too small, , thanks..!
Petterikoste 2 years ago
Very nice!
I don't have an expensive lighting system (I do have four Nikon SB-800s and an SU-800 wireless commander), nor do I have a light meter. Is it still possible to have these results with my equipment?
Is there a particular type/brand of light meter you might recommend? Thanks!
guate6 2 years ago
Nice vid! just one thing do. you should have used barndoors or gotten som flags for the background light! unless you were aiming for the background to be a kind of backlight/hair/fill light! just would have been nice if you mentioned it. anyways great vid dood keep it up man!
putyourshadeson 2 years ago
Thanks for taking the time to make the video. The video was very instructional. You Rock!
RockyNational 2 years ago 2
Great job man!
rockwriter 3 years ago
listen to the sound of my voice...................nothing else matters now!
robjamiesonuk 3 years ago
thank you. was really helpful.
robjamiesonuk 3 years ago
Thank you very much Gavin. That's really helpful video. - Tiru
9908862000 3 years ago
I think we are both using the Elincrom set, I usually set the large softbox at 45d to the backdrop, and the other softbox in front, I guess this is why I'm getting light drop off to the opposite side of the backdrop. When I set up I usually set the camera at F13 and 125. I did this by trial and error do I need a light metre like yours? The large softbox is set to 5.0 and the smaller one at the front to 1.7. I'm getting ok results, but still some editing required.
JacksonTrengove6 3 years ago
Yes I have several Elinchrom lights. If you only have one lamp at an angle the background will probably be a little greay on one side. You really need two lights to light a white background from the sides or hide the light behind the sitter like I did here. You don't need a light meter, it helps and looks more professional then trail & error.
PhotoGavin 3 years ago
Hi Gavin, what was the ISO and the shutter speed ?
mac51r 3 years ago
Set your camera to it's flash sync speed or below(1/200 on by Canon) and use 100 ISO for best quality images.
PhotoGavin 3 years ago
that was great! but I'm confused on the background light being F22? Shouldn't it be ....nevermind...I think I just figured it out in my head.. LOL! Thanks for the video!!!
kingskid96 3 years ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
Dishy model.
Normanskie 3 years ago
thank u so much for all of your videos
aarondkeogh 3 years ago
Thanks, I hope you've found them helpful.
PhotoGavin 3 years ago
what about if you use constant light on the white background, is that possible? What if you like a even more WHITE background?
Thanks
bollockmok 3 years ago
The principle is the same for constant (e.g. Tunsten lights).
You can't get whiter then pure white. The reason for two stops extra on the background is to iron out wrinkles, brigten dull white backgrounds and allow of light fall off at edges.
PhotoGavin 3 years ago
Hiya Gavin, i have one last question, i have noticed that you have put the spotlight behind the young model, What about a adult or group shot, would i need another light instead of one and would the rule apply to the same as the one light.
Thankyou
NYCITY3 3 years ago
For small groups and full length shots I use two lights at the side. Fit a reflector, barn door or use a black "flag" to ensure no stray light hits the models.
PhotoGavin 3 years ago
NYCITY3 I can't reply to your messages as you have your set your account to block all PM's. Sorry
PhotoGavin 3 years ago
Thank you for replying back, so you measure the background light for each light on either side,is that correct?
NYCITY3 3 years ago
I'll measure the light behind the subject. If it's a large group I'll measure the light in the centre AND at the edges,then try and position the lights to give the most even illumination. It's not always possible, and that's where a bit of Photoshop skill really helps.
PhotoGavin 3 years ago