Thanks. Thats what i suspected. Ive seen people mistakenly put in a 470K but this is a new one. I have to say it sounded pretty dam good before i changed it out. But the headroom is most important and it still breaks up nicely when dimed. These amps are a dream come true in tone. Couldnt duplicate this if i built a clone. Amazing grace!
Question: I have a 2.7K in the LTPI instead of the usual 470. It is factory. I replaced it with a 470 and have more headroom. But the breakup is less. I have never seen any resistor value other than a 470-1K in any PI before. Could this have been a factory screwup or is there a purpose in using the higher 2.7K value? A first
@tubeamplification I suspect a screw up as I have never seen that Value ... if you want contact Yorkvile they are always super helpful, but if it was not in any of the schematics they may be stumped too
the clue that its a screw up is the color code that purple 7 stands out
I just bought a vintage traynor. I really enjoy it's tone, but feel a few minor mods could tighten it up to be the beast that it is. Thank you for all of the post. Your videos give me everything i am looking for. Keep your posting format exactly the same. Congrats on a job well done
These mods definatley make the YGM-3 amp come alive. It makes the EQ much more interactive at all setting. The bass is tighter and the treble has just the right amount of shine. My YGM-3 is a 1968 and there is some conflicting part values that differ from the YGM-3 schematic. But they are stock and the amp is dated 1968. In any case i generally would not mod this amplifier as i like to keep tham all stock. But in this business thats almost always impossable to do. Great difference
just got ahold of one of these; it is very clean but it has a major issue: the sound is squashed/compressed/clipped on the peaks, and it gets worse as volume goes up. sounds like a ratty torn speaker, but it is not(i confirmed that). also it is not a tube issue. it looks like the NFB capacitor was snipped out, and also a boutique lower value cap (Auricap 0.01uF) was installed in 1st interstage coupling capacitor position, just like you did in this video
Oh yes also added a 10k bias adjust over a 15k for R39 Matched JJ El84 replacing unknown vintage Mullards. May also try matched TADs later. Sovtek 12ax7s and a nice Mullard for V1. All tubes were working, but best to have a good reference first, before returning them. Only weak part is the reverb 'clanks' in use. I have a Marshal tank and Fender coupling trans and might try that out. Reverb is barely listenable now.
I found one of these on the island with some hack job mods and a Rola Celestian. Yanked the idiot mods, swapped in a new Celestian G12 Heritage, and have done most of your mods as shown. Finally I found a lost Mojo Vit. T .01 and put that in before the tone stack, really perked things up. A 102k replaced the fizzy, and presence cap long gone. I do have a 150uf cath cap on V1b, and that screams, but might go back to a 50uf. Thanks, cool stuff. I'll gig it out tomorrow.
True Free energy devices exist,But the Establishment doesn't want ppl to know this,Go to LT-MAGNET-MOTORdotCOM and get the blueprints for a genuine magnet motor ,Be a part of the energy revolution!
Yes 100% reliable ... the biggest concern is with modern el84's some are very bad
In the reissue they bumped the first power supply resistor to 1.8k, this also serves as the creen grid resistor ... I have now done this on all my old ones
I use Red Fang or EVM speakers in my gigging YGM's & they smoke most 50 watt amps
Thanks for the video! I did apply your mods to my Studio Mate and it sounds a lot better. Now, if you would let me know how I can "darken" the reverb a bit, that would be great (sure sounds wayyyy too bright for me). Thanks again! Luc
Interesting. My YGM-1 doesn't break up like the YGM-3 We clipped the input cap which reduced the ice-pick-treble, and added a small screen resistor b4 the plates. It's good but still feels like a good EQ pedal is needed in the mids.
If those are the only two that need to be replaced, I will do it tomorrow.
Thank you for being so helpful. Other sites make it such a mystery, beating around the bush about safety, and you are straight forward, spreading the knowledge.
Thanks. Thats what i suspected. Ive seen people mistakenly put in a 470K but this is a new one. I have to say it sounded pretty dam good before i changed it out. But the headroom is most important and it still breaks up nicely when dimed. These amps are a dream come true in tone. Couldnt duplicate this if i built a clone. Amazing grace!
tubeamplification 5 months ago
Question: I have a 2.7K in the LTPI instead of the usual 470. It is factory. I replaced it with a 470 and have more headroom. But the breakup is less. I have never seen any resistor value other than a 470-1K in any PI before. Could this have been a factory screwup or is there a purpose in using the higher 2.7K value? A first
tubeamplification 5 months ago
@tubeamplification I suspect a screw up as I have never seen that Value ... if you want contact Yorkvile they are always super helpful, but if it was not in any of the schematics they may be stumped too
the clue that its a screw up is the color code that purple 7 stands out
patfurlan 5 months ago
I just bought a vintage traynor. I really enjoy it's tone, but feel a few minor mods could tighten it up to be the beast that it is. Thank you for all of the post. Your videos give me everything i am looking for. Keep your posting format exactly the same. Congrats on a job well done
ellendera1 5 months ago
These mods definatley make the YGM-3 amp come alive. It makes the EQ much more interactive at all setting. The bass is tighter and the treble has just the right amount of shine. My YGM-3 is a 1968 and there is some conflicting part values that differ from the YGM-3 schematic. But they are stock and the amp is dated 1968. In any case i generally would not mod this amplifier as i like to keep tham all stock. But in this business thats almost always impossable to do. Great difference
tubeamplification 5 months ago
just got ahold of one of these; it is very clean but it has a major issue: the sound is squashed/compressed/clipped on the peaks, and it gets worse as volume goes up. sounds like a ratty torn speaker, but it is not(i confirmed that). also it is not a tube issue. it looks like the NFB capacitor was snipped out, and also a boutique lower value cap (Auricap 0.01uF) was installed in 1st interstage coupling capacitor position, just like you did in this video
freshcaughtbass 6 months ago
@freshcaughtbass if volume is very low you may have a bad coupling cap leaking DC ...
although 99% of the time Tubes are the cause of tube amp troubles
patfurlan 6 months ago
@freshcaughtbass get out your meter and check all voltages this hould give you a clue
patfurlan 6 months ago
Comment removed
Samuijazz 1 year ago
Oh yes also added a 10k bias adjust over a 15k for R39 Matched JJ El84 replacing unknown vintage Mullards. May also try matched TADs later. Sovtek 12ax7s and a nice Mullard for V1. All tubes were working, but best to have a good reference first, before returning them. Only weak part is the reverb 'clanks' in use. I have a Marshal tank and Fender coupling trans and might try that out. Reverb is barely listenable now.
Samuijazz 1 year ago
I found one of these on the island with some hack job mods and a Rola Celestian. Yanked the idiot mods, swapped in a new Celestian G12 Heritage, and have done most of your mods as shown. Finally I found a lost Mojo Vit. T .01 and put that in before the tone stack, really perked things up. A 102k replaced the fizzy, and presence cap long gone. I do have a 150uf cath cap on V1b, and that screams, but might go back to a 50uf. Thanks, cool stuff. I'll gig it out tomorrow.
Samuijazz 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
True Free energy devices exist,But the Establishment doesn't want ppl to know this,Go to LT-MAGNET-MOTORdotCOM and get the blueprints for a genuine magnet motor ,Be a part of the energy revolution!
graywackeknifebdr 1 year ago
Will this mod work with a '73 YGM 3?
And do you have any mods for an old YBA-1?
jf11111 1 year ago
yep it works for most of em
patfurlan 1 year ago
Nice video !!!
SEE THIS:
Turn Radio into Guitar Amp:
youtube.com/watch?v=YHfoON7ukSc
pegasomarcelo 1 year ago
I did the mods on my guitarmate. Sounds great. Thank you!
dragonvader 1 year ago
What speaker is in your amp? Mine came with a Fane that's probably ceramic judging by the weight. The odd thing is the speaker frame is chromed.
I can't get over how quite these are considering the long wire runs and not one piece of co-axial wire to be found..
Do you feel those resettable fuses Traynor used are reliable?
NoelGrassy 2 years ago
Yes 100% reliable ... the biggest concern is with modern el84's some are very bad
In the reissue they bumped the first power supply resistor to 1.8k, this also serves as the creen grid resistor ... I have now done this on all my old ones
I use Red Fang or EVM speakers in my gigging YGM's & they smoke most 50 watt amps
patfurlan 2 years ago
What value did you change the treble resistor to?
bjenkins1031 2 years ago
haaa you were the first guy to catch that...
r5 and or r9 become 100k,
recently I changed r10 27k
to make the tone less bass heavy
patfurlan 2 years ago
How about doing some mods to a marshall super lead?
conjering 2 years ago
I've removed dozens of Marshall Mods over the years. I prefer the Marshall Super Bass and
early shared cathode amps.
patfurlan 2 years ago
It seems to me like your pick noise went up with almost every mod until the last one. Not a bad thing as the amp sounds great.
dancingrizz 2 years ago
I use a solid 1.4 mm pick .. and I'm standing next to the mic
patfurlan 2 years ago
I understand.
dancingrizz 2 years ago
Thanks for the video! I did apply your mods to my Studio Mate and it sounds a lot better. Now, if you would let me know how I can "darken" the reverb a bit, that would be great (sure sounds wayyyy too bright for me). Thanks again! Luc
leftylucifer 2 years ago
Thanks for the vid! Do you know if there is a presence cap on the YGM-1 (1966-67)?
bobob13131 2 years ago
the schematic shows no feedback loop ...
its more like a bassmate
Hopefully I'll get my first ygm1 next week
patfurlan 2 years ago
Interesting. My YGM-1 doesn't break up like the YGM-3 We clipped the input cap which reduced the ice-pick-treble, and added a small screen resistor b4 the plates. It's good but still feels like a good EQ pedal is needed in the mids.
bobob13131 2 years ago
looking at the ygm1 schematic the amp
has a 100k plate load resistor for v1
and v2 has no cathode bypass cap
change the resistor to 220k and add a 25m/25 volt bypass cap & it will pick up some gain
patfurlan 2 years ago
mine was stolen, loved the amp. great sounds mate.
lilnetty2 2 years ago
hey these are great, informative clips, thx for putting them up!!
grogcaveman 2 years ago
Only the filter caps?
If those are the only two that need to be replaced, I will do it tomorrow.
Thank you for being so helpful. Other sites make it such a mystery, beating around the bush about safety, and you are straight forward, spreading the knowledge.
Way to go!
strocksociety 2 years ago
Hi Pat:
That's very informative. Thanks, I will be doing it in my YGM-3.
What capacitors need to be changed to solid state on those amps (because of leakage)?
Could you post, or send me a picture of the board with the caps circled/highlighted and value of them?
Yes, I know how to stay safe while working on it. =;-)
Thanks,
Eric
strocksociety 2 years ago
are you referring to filter caps ?
those are the big things that look like sticks of
dynamite they are dual 40mfd at 500 volts
I replace them with F&t Or JJ 32/32 or 50/50
patfurlan 2 years ago
cool videos
ericwylde 2 years ago
I can probably scrounge a 58 strat stay tuned
patfurlan 2 years ago
Could you do another vid and demo the modded amp with a stock vintage strat .. or reissue ? Through the single 12 inch Marsland ?? Pls.
backthisway 2 years ago