After setting your base cabinets on the ladder frame, how do you deal with the space left between the bottom of the cabinet and the ladder frame, I estimate this may be about 1 1/2"?
@ganesh2935 I'm really not sure what you're asking... the gables (sides) of the base cabinets sit on the ladder frames. The decks (bottoms) of the cabinets need not sit on the ladders. If I were to install cabinets w/out a ladder, the gables would just be extended an extra 3 1/2" to sit on the floor. I use a ladder frame because I can get two extra base gables out of a sheet of plywood.
@farmerrey I am asking about the space 1 1/2" between the deck (bottom) of the cabinet and the top of the ladder frame front (toe kick). I understand that the sides sit on the latter frame hence the space I am asking about? Do you seal up that space or just ignore it?
@ganesh2935 I don't do anything w/ that space. The only way it would ever be seen is if a 3" tall man looked under the base cabinets. The kicks cover the ladders, and that's the most important thing.
@farmerrey I understand but I am thinking that space may create easy acess for cockroaches etc. to thrive and flourish within the area of the ladder frame. That's the only reason I asked.
loved the videos its something im looking into doing. only thing you really left out was the finished results! regardless it was an amazing video. i never saw the soft shut drawers before that is something im going to look into as well. thanks again for the videos looking forward to more!
nice work,when you make the frames that cabinets sit on how you fixing to floor and do you cover front with the wood you are workin with at time. also how you doing end of cabinets the sides ,hope these questions make sense new to woodworkin.
Thanks for the info. I just bought a shop across the street from yours, hired 15 illegals, and plan to build a product that looks similar and sell it for half as much.
i started working in a cabinet shop in 56. i sure wish we had some of those tools you have there ,back then i had to do all the sanding by hand .when i cough i still smell saw dust ..but i miss some of it some times ..good videos
People just don't realize do they? The amount of work that high end custom cabinets involve? This was great, and paced very nicely. I must say I'm for sure coveting your Kreg drilling set-up after having to constantly re-arrange things to use my little pocket hole jig.
It would be a great help if you could post videos on installation of drawer slides and door hinges to the cabinets. Am I thinking right that it is relatively easier to install hinges to lower cabinets then to upper ones as the lower ones has a top opening?
Many steps which are piece of cake for you is a challenge for the beginners.
Great videos, I like the idea of the 2x4 ladder frame, but most of the 2x4 that are KD are usually crowned and you have to spend time picking the straight ones out, I thought ripping down 3/4 " plywood on the table saw may be easier to level. Another way I thought was to pocket screw a 3/4" ladder to the bottom of the cabinet. Thanks for all your ideas.
Just wondering if it's common practice to band any of the wall cabinets on the bottom plywood edge? Especially the shorter ones like over the sink or fridge. Also what do you use for shelves?
After watching you vids I'm building my own cabinets. Thanks.
@bruno2260 I used to band the bottom of the gables (sides) of my upper cabinets. I currently add 1/4" plywood panels in matching wood species to the bottoms of the uppers after install to give a more finished look, no need to band plywood anymore.
@Loveroproduction For my oil seal coats I use Seal A Cell from General Finishes, and I use Kemaqua dull rubbed for my spray topcoats. Mahogany would be nice, but pretty pricey. Thanks for watching
You reference that the face-frame will be flush with the carcass on the inside bottom and sides (top?). It seems obvious (and I think I noted a visual reference in video 7) that it means that your face-frame will have a lip hanging over on the sides. What do you do with the space between cabinets then? What is your mount together method? Can I assume you put some sort of blocks in between that perfectly match the combined lip? Thanks and fantastic videos!
@mrjoelcarter1 Where two cabinets come together I use two "half" stiles. When the two are together it looks like one large cabinet. Yes the stiles extend beyond the carcass a bit because I flush them, but the space (1/2" total with the two together) isn't that bad. I don't use spacers. I predrill, then use finish screws to attache ajoining cabinets together.
'd like to see how you set up the ladder frame, esp how you handle the exposed end. I think I understand your earlier response, but seeing the video would clarify.
Hi there, your work is great, and GOD has really bless you with some skills and understanding. Keep up the good work. Very clean. do you work alone or are there other workers with you. NICE.
Great series. I learned some things, and confirmed that I'm doing the right thing, for the most part. Nice to see someone that knows what they are doing. I do need to organize my shop better.
@strikeofthesword,End Cabinet; You could also make your ladder frame say 3" shorter on the exposed end and just create a side "toe recess" in addition to the front one.
@farmerrey, if you're using a ladder frame for the base, wouldn't the cabinet that's on the end, not against a wall, fall off of the ladder frame; since it would still need a few inches of inset to form a toe kick. How do you compensate for that? Do you do a rabbet around the bottom of that particular cabinet to make sure that it is supported all the way around?
@strikeofthesword In those cases I plant on an end panel to cover the plywood case and the ladder frame. They are basically large doors with a wider bottom stile. I make them a bit oversize so I can scribe them to the floor and flush them up to the tops of the base cabinets.
I would have thought that you would have needed a rabbet all the way around the cabinet all the way at the end, with an exposed side, with a 3/4 plywood panel glued and pin nailed in. But your solution is revealing. Thanks.
Face frames flush with the inside of the cases. Non-traditional, but interesting idea. Would eliminate quite a few problems. You didn't show the upper cabinet install. Do you use temporary wall cleats for support? Make part 8 so we can see the finished product.
@mithrandir10001 With frames flush, mounting hardware is easy especially in an inset application. No cleats, I make a stand in the shape of a "T" to hold up the uppers while I screw to studs. 1/2 inch backs are plenty strong to hold up the cabinets.
I used 3/4 stock for the cabinet backs, but only because it was just easier to purchase and cut all one size. I'm not trying to earn a living like you.
Great Job !! I sat and watched the whole series also, I searched for shelving pin holes found your vids and watched 'em all. Is there another way to do shelving pin holes with a standard drill?
@bassdaze I used to use a jig and a router. The jig was a piece of plywood with a series of holes that would get clamped to my cabinet sides. A plunge router with rub collar and a 1/4 inch straight bit was placed in each hole and plunged. Line borer saves HOURS of time!
Hi Chris,
Just looked at your videos, great!
One quick question.
After setting your base cabinets on the ladder frame, how do you deal with the space left between the bottom of the cabinet and the ladder frame, I estimate this may be about 1 1/2"?
ganesh2935 4 days ago
@ganesh2935 I'm really not sure what you're asking... the gables (sides) of the base cabinets sit on the ladder frames. The decks (bottoms) of the cabinets need not sit on the ladders. If I were to install cabinets w/out a ladder, the gables would just be extended an extra 3 1/2" to sit on the floor. I use a ladder frame because I can get two extra base gables out of a sheet of plywood.
farmerrey 3 days ago
@farmerrey I am asking about the space 1 1/2" between the deck (bottom) of the cabinet and the top of the ladder frame front (toe kick). I understand that the sides sit on the latter frame hence the space I am asking about? Do you seal up that space or just ignore it?
ganesh2935 3 days ago
@ganesh2935 I don't do anything w/ that space. The only way it would ever be seen is if a 3" tall man looked under the base cabinets. The kicks cover the ladders, and that's the most important thing.
farmerrey 2 days ago
@farmerrey I understand but I am thinking that space may create easy acess for cockroaches etc. to thrive and flourish within the area of the ladder frame. That's the only reason I asked.
ganesh2935 2 days ago
great series of videos - very informative. Would love to seen the finished product.
DemetersRest 3 weeks ago
You forgot to calibrate the stud finder against your chest. I always do that prior to use to make sure it still works.
789995 3 weeks ago
loved the videos its something im looking into doing. only thing you really left out was the finished results! regardless it was an amazing video. i never saw the soft shut drawers before that is something im going to look into as well. thanks again for the videos looking forward to more!
53fetech 1 month ago
nice work,when you make the frames that cabinets sit on how you fixing to floor and do you cover front with the wood you are workin with at time. also how you doing end of cabinets the sides ,hope these questions make sense new to woodworkin.
tigertruckerman 2 months ago
Thanks for the info. I just bought a shop across the street from yours, hired 15 illegals, and plan to build a product that looks similar and sell it for half as much.
(totally kidding)
ootsam 2 months ago
this is by far the best video i've seen in a long time. the only thing is i wished you showed how you hung the wall cabinets.
thebeast1673 2 months ago
i started working in a cabinet shop in 56. i sure wish we had some of those tools you have there ,back then i had to do all the sanding by hand .when i cough i still smell saw dust ..but i miss some of it some times ..good videos
moecat1000 3 months ago
Nice videos , Great wokmanship ! . Do you have help in the shop and on installs ,
or are you a one man gang?.
broncobob2000 3 months ago
People just don't realize do they? The amount of work that high end custom cabinets involve? This was great, and paced very nicely. I must say I'm for sure coveting your Kreg drilling set-up after having to constantly re-arrange things to use my little pocket hole jig.
hawkechik 3 months ago
Looks very good .
It would be nice to see this kitchen in full when it's all in place !!
Is that possible ?
vuylstekemarnix 3 months ago
Excellent 7 part series - watched them all...
The pace was great - not too wordy - straight to the point on each step - very well explained - from start to finish...excellent stuff!
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos!
aaronled 8 months ago 4
@aaronled Thanks a bunch! Trying to find the time to make another video
farmerrey 3 months ago
I have seen some Fine furniture on your Web site. Could you let me know how you do your mortises? Do you use router or a dedicated mortiser.
Thanks for your help.
nasarazam 10 months ago
It would be a great help if you could post videos on installation of drawer slides and door hinges to the cabinets. Am I thinking right that it is relatively easier to install hinges to lower cabinets then to upper ones as the lower ones has a top opening?
Many steps which are piece of cake for you is a challenge for the beginners.
Thanks for the videos.
nasarazam 10 months ago
I was not aware that you can use water based Top Coat on an Oil Finish! Anything that we need to look out for in this scenario?
Thanks
nasarazam 10 months ago
@nasarazam once cured, you can put most anything over an oil based finish
farmerrey 10 months ago
@farmerrey
Chris,
first I want to say that I learned a lot from your videos. You showed in detailed manner.
Second, Thanks for putting your knowledge on videos, so beginners like me can make a good job.
Finally, do you have any videos in How to make Cabinets Doors using Trims or Mouldings?
I am updating my Kitchen Cabinets by Re-Facing them.
I am never did this before and so far the cabinets structure are still strong but the Doors are outdated.
Thanks for your time
valandsergio 8 months ago
great job! just getting into cabinet building learned a lot watching your videos, thanks!!
troysland1234 11 months ago
i think he has mastered building cabinets
djkingpersia 11 months ago
was that an oops the last five seconds lol great vid
sniperbait171 1 year ago
I would like to say great videos from start to finish. Thank you for the details.
Have you ever thought of doing a video tour of your shop. It is nice to see "working shops" other than just "show shops". Thanks again
WE3HINES 1 year ago
Wow ! Really great video.
I was wondering if you have had any trouble with using waterbase topcoat over oils..?
Bill
ThunderHead02 1 year ago
Great videos, I like the idea of the 2x4 ladder frame, but most of the 2x4 that are KD are usually crowned and you have to spend time picking the straight ones out, I thought ripping down 3/4 " plywood on the table saw may be easier to level. Another way I thought was to pocket screw a 3/4" ladder to the bottom of the cabinet. Thanks for all your ideas.
jefftuttle1 1 year ago
Just wondering if it's common practice to band any of the wall cabinets on the bottom plywood edge? Especially the shorter ones like over the sink or fridge. Also what do you use for shelves?
After watching you vids I'm building my own cabinets. Thanks.
bruno2260 1 year ago
@bruno2260 I used to band the bottom of the gables (sides) of my upper cabinets. I currently add 1/4" plywood panels in matching wood species to the bottoms of the uppers after install to give a more finished look, no need to band plywood anymore.
farmerrey 1 year ago
@Loveroproduction Sorry... I don't, I'm in New England. I'm sure a google search would help you out. Good luck with your project!
farmerrey 1 year ago
@Loveroproduction For my oil seal coats I use Seal A Cell from General Finishes, and I use Kemaqua dull rubbed for my spray topcoats. Mahogany would be nice, but pretty pricey. Thanks for watching
farmerrey 1 year ago
@farmerrey
You reference that the face-frame will be flush with the carcass on the inside bottom and sides (top?). It seems obvious (and I think I noted a visual reference in video 7) that it means that your face-frame will have a lip hanging over on the sides. What do you do with the space between cabinets then? What is your mount together method? Can I assume you put some sort of blocks in between that perfectly match the combined lip? Thanks and fantastic videos!
mrjoelcarter1 1 year ago
@mrjoelcarter1 Where two cabinets come together I use two "half" stiles. When the two are together it looks like one large cabinet. Yes the stiles extend beyond the carcass a bit because I flush them, but the space (1/2" total with the two together) isn't that bad. I don't use spacers. I predrill, then use finish screws to attache ajoining cabinets together.
farmerrey 1 year ago
Comment removed
mrjoelcarter1 1 year ago
Comment removed
mrjoelcarter1 1 year ago
The ladder frame is an awesome idea. I will use that when I build my cabinets next year. Awesome videos and work!!!
cevod123 1 year ago
Excellent set of video's. Very impressive work. Thanks for all the info.
karnage27 1 year ago
'd like to see how you set up the ladder frame, esp how you handle the exposed end. I think I understand your earlier response, but seeing the video would clarify.
kirkcameron1999 1 year ago
great video series...wish we could see the finish!
elimelech12 1 year ago
Hi there, your work is great, and GOD has really bless you with some skills and understanding. Keep up the good work. Very clean. do you work alone or are there other workers with you. NICE.
Anthony.
1airgforce1 1 year ago
@1airgforce1 Thanks! I have 1.5 employees. 1 full time guy (not during the video) and my father that helps out when he can (the camera man)
farmerrey 1 year ago
I want to know how do you cover the outside screws after assembling the cabinets?
max1673 1 year ago
Amazing....this was the most interesting thing I ever watched on youtube! I learned sooooo much! Thank you for sharing your wonderful talent!
mjnorrad 1 year ago
Great series. I learned some things, and confirmed that I'm doing the right thing, for the most part. Nice to see someone that knows what they are doing. I do need to organize my shop better.
10thirteen71 1 year ago
hahaha
MultiTom69 1 year ago
Do you sell the series, with the top cabinets installed on CD?
wvacanti 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Great video series. Thank You
wvacanti 1 year ago
very complete and comprehensive,thank you
uroboros1983 1 year ago
@strikeofthesword,End Cabinet; You could also make your ladder frame say 3" shorter on the exposed end and just create a side "toe recess" in addition to the front one.
rugolik 1 year ago
@farmerrey, if you're using a ladder frame for the base, wouldn't the cabinet that's on the end, not against a wall, fall off of the ladder frame; since it would still need a few inches of inset to form a toe kick. How do you compensate for that? Do you do a rabbet around the bottom of that particular cabinet to make sure that it is supported all the way around?
strikeofthesword 2 years ago
@strikeofthesword In those cases I plant on an end panel to cover the plywood case and the ladder frame. They are basically large doors with a wider bottom stile. I make them a bit oversize so I can scribe them to the floor and flush them up to the tops of the base cabinets.
farmerrey 2 years ago
Awesome! \m/ \m/
I would have thought that you would have needed a rabbet all the way around the cabinet all the way at the end, with an exposed side, with a 3/4 plywood panel glued and pin nailed in. But your solution is revealing. Thanks.
strikeofthesword 2 years ago
Face frames flush with the inside of the cases. Non-traditional, but interesting idea. Would eliminate quite a few problems. You didn't show the upper cabinet install. Do you use temporary wall cleats for support? Make part 8 so we can see the finished product.
mithrandir10001 2 years ago
@mithrandir10001 With frames flush, mounting hardware is easy especially in an inset application. No cleats, I make a stand in the shape of a "T" to hold up the uppers while I screw to studs. 1/2 inch backs are plenty strong to hold up the cabinets.
farmerrey 2 years ago
I used 3/4 stock for the cabinet backs, but only because it was just easier to purchase and cut all one size. I'm not trying to earn a living like you.
mithrandir10001 2 years ago
Great video series. Thanks!
abnoot 2 years ago
Please post a closing chapter to your series! Thanks......great job by the way!!
electrotechbk 2 years ago
Great Job !! I sat and watched the whole series also, I searched for shelving pin holes found your vids and watched 'em all. Is there another way to do shelving pin holes with a standard drill?
Thanks
bassdaze 2 years ago
@bassdaze I used to use a jig and a router. The jig was a piece of plywood with a series of holes that would get clamped to my cabinet sides. A plunge router with rub collar and a 1/4 inch straight bit was placed in each hole and plunged. Line borer saves HOURS of time!
farmerrey 2 years ago
great video series, I wish I could work for you and learn from you. great job. you need to add the part 8 to show the finish product.
kevdav7 2 years ago