Why is everybody bitchen about heavy metal poison. If you have seen what I have at some of the big brew places. led solder on the pipes rat droppings, Mold in the grain. Ect.
I just bought a the supply's but i used a Rubbermaid cooler the liquid tight fitting is too short to fit thru the wall of the cooler i suppose my cooler is thicker there? or i got the wrong fitting
I caution any one using a Liquid Tight electrical fitting. PVC is toxic and not used for potable water. Instead it is used for Drain, or venting. There is PVC pipe for potable water but not what is used in Liquid Tight. Liquid Tight is used to keep water out of electrical fixtures and the water wont be consumed by any one. All PVC used for potable water has NSF on it and Potable printed on it. Use copper or vinyl fixtures, which are made for potable water.
how did you shove the end of the stainless steel braid into the liquid tight fitting? does it just fit in perfectly if you sqeeze the end and put it in? also, what did you use to clamp the other end of the stainless steel braid? thanks
-Additional: 1/2" Straight Extender (~$.70)(One female end and one male end; the LiquidTight threads are not long enough to hold the Ball Valve due to insulation)
Additional: Thread Sealing Tape (~$1.29)
Additional: Hose Clamp (~$?...found a spare in the garage, holds the SS tube )
I just use a fermenting bin and place it in hot water in the bath, keep it at the right temp by pouring a kettle of boiling water into the bath if required.
I used a "mini keg bung" instead of an expensive ball valve. The mini keg bung costs $1.99 and a piece of 1/4" tubing fits snugly inside with no leaking. I clamped my SS braid to the inside and on the outside I use a small spring clamp to open and shut the hose. Costs a lot less.
If you use a half inch stainless steal braided hose, hot water heater supply line and a hose clamp it works much better. Because, you can slip it over the liquid tight fitting and put a hose clamp on it.
I actually have built a mash tun out of an igloo 12 quart cooler (the exact same one in the video, only smaller). This is the perfect size for doing full all-grain 2.5 gallon batches. The great thing about the half batches is that I can do them on my stovetop in my spare time during the week. All you need to do for a recipe is split a 5 gallon recipe exactly in half. Easy breezy japaneezy
awsome video / tun design. I've watchted a handful of videos on different kinds and this is far and away the easiest & simplest design. Im going with this one - thank you very much!
Hey Jelson, nice video. Have you checked out homebrewtalk dot com? There's a lot more members there and the conversations are organized better (they're not all lumped together under "Beer" like they are at brewboard.) Come check out the site there's a lot of great information.
You can shave even more off the price by omitting the ball valve. I replaced the factory spigot with a mini keg bung which cost about two bucks. Then piece of siphon hose I had lying around friction fits right into the bung. Add to that an inexpensive in-line valve... or not (see my video) and you're good to go.
I just saw the new 48qt's come without a drain plug. When I bought mine the drain hole was there so no, I didn't have to drill. Igloo must have made a change to the design.
Do you have any problems with the hose braid coming out of the liquid tight fitting when stirring your mash? Can you hose clamp it? or will the braid not fit over it? Id just be paranoid of the braid coming out in the middle of the mash if its not secured in someway..
I've got the cooler already, and I am making a trip to Lowe's tomorrow so I can finally start my all grain brewing. Thanks for the video. I will post again when my first batch is done to let you know how it turns out.
Hello, this is a great video, and very helpful. Apparently I purchased a faucet connector that appeared, and felt to be stainless steel. However, when I cut it apart, the braid seems to be some kind of nylon/plastic? Do you think this will work or should I go back to the depot and get the stainless?
@jackandamber, When you Get Alzheimer's dont be bitching.
livnlarge1980 2 weeks ago
Why is everybody bitchen about heavy metal poison. If you have seen what I have at some of the big brew places. led solder on the pipes rat droppings, Mold in the grain. Ect.
jackandamber 6 months ago
Galvanized and Brass parts WILL cause heavy metal poison!
MrSchpankme 7 months ago
I just bought a the supply's but i used a Rubbermaid cooler the liquid tight fitting is too short to fit thru the wall of the cooler i suppose my cooler is thicker there? or i got the wrong fitting
Jerraybd 1 year ago
Comment removed
Jerraybd 1 year ago
can i get a part list of what parts you used? I have an old coleman cooler that is plastic inside and metal on the outside.
videogamegod88 1 year ago
The other end of the steel braid has its one end intact?
rhino18 1 year ago
Comment removed
z0hmz 1 year ago
I caution any one using a Liquid Tight electrical fitting. PVC is toxic and not used for potable water. Instead it is used for Drain, or venting. There is PVC pipe for potable water but not what is used in Liquid Tight. Liquid Tight is used to keep water out of electrical fixtures and the water wont be consumed by any one. All PVC used for potable water has NSF on it and Potable printed on it. Use copper or vinyl fixtures, which are made for potable water.
cohibamatt 2 years ago
how did you shove the end of the stainless steel braid into the liquid tight fitting? does it just fit in perfectly if you sqeeze the end and put it in? also, what did you use to clamp the other end of the stainless steel braid? thanks
zodiak3000 2 years ago
How I did it:
-5 Gallon Cooler (~$19, Home Depot)
-1/2" Ball Valve, Copper (~$9)
-1/2" LiquidTight Conduit, PVC (~$2)
-1/2" Male to 3/8" Barb, Copper (~$4)
-12"-16" Stainless Steel faucet hose (~$8)
-Additional: 1/2" Straight Extender (~$.70)(One female end and one male end; the LiquidTight threads are not long enough to hold the Ball Valve due to insulation)
Additional: Thread Sealing Tape (~$1.29)
Additional: Hose Clamp (~$?...found a spare in the garage, holds the SS tube )
Total Cost: ~$44
ssuhy65 2 years ago
Comment removed
ssuhy65 2 years ago
cold you put a list of components used up?
Alec7890 2 years ago
I just use a fermenting bin and place it in hot water in the bath, keep it at the right temp by pouring a kettle of boiling water into the bath if required.
ben556473 2 years ago
Great video! What's the second part called again? Liquid what fitting? That wouldn't be in plumbing rather than electric?
I'm making this, this weekend!
NorthTexasHorn 2 years ago
I used a "mini keg bung" instead of an expensive ball valve. The mini keg bung costs $1.99 and a piece of 1/4" tubing fits snugly inside with no leaking. I clamped my SS braid to the inside and on the outside I use a small spring clamp to open and shut the hose. Costs a lot less.
Homebrew58 2 years ago
If you use a half inch stainless steal braided hose, hot water heater supply line and a hose clamp it works much better. Because, you can slip it over the liquid tight fitting and put a hose clamp on it.
chackras420 3 years ago
Thanks for your time and info. Once again,
good job on the video!
emlerron 3 years ago
Enjoyed your video, good job! I'm interested
in going to all grain brewing, but have limited space, any suggestions for halving a
5 gallon recipe?
emlerron 3 years ago
I actually have built a mash tun out of an igloo 12 quart cooler (the exact same one in the video, only smaller). This is the perfect size for doing full all-grain 2.5 gallon batches. The great thing about the half batches is that I can do them on my stovetop in my spare time during the week. All you need to do for a recipe is split a 5 gallon recipe exactly in half. Easy breezy japaneezy
jelson98 3 years ago
awsome video / tun design. I've watchted a handful of videos on different kinds and this is far and away the easiest & simplest design. Im going with this one - thank you very much!
scubadiver75 3 years ago
I wonder if a basic valve setup on your bottling bucket would work the same? would it hold up to the heat? hmm....
luv2bbq 3 years ago
Hey Jelson, nice video. Have you checked out homebrewtalk dot com? There's a lot more members there and the conversations are organized better (they're not all lumped together under "Beer" like they are at brewboard.) Come check out the site there's a lot of great information.
cjoklo 3 years ago
You can shave even more off the price by omitting the ball valve. I replaced the factory spigot with a mini keg bung which cost about two bucks. Then piece of siphon hose I had lying around friction fits right into the bung. Add to that an inexpensive in-line valve... or not (see my video) and you're good to go.
Homebrew58 3 years ago
Did you have to drill a hole on the 48qt cube cooler? All the 48qt cube igloo coolers im finding dont have the spigot hole pre-drillied.
unfun72 3 years ago
I just saw the new 48qt's come without a drain plug. When I bought mine the drain hole was there so no, I didn't have to drill. Igloo must have made a change to the design.
jelson98 3 years ago
Do you have any problems with the hose braid coming out of the liquid tight fitting when stirring your mash? Can you hose clamp it? or will the braid not fit over it? Id just be paranoid of the braid coming out in the middle of the mash if its not secured in someway..
unfun72 3 years ago
I did 8-10 batches with this design and never lost the braid, however, I have since gone to a clamp and ball valve design.
jelson98 3 years ago
how is the clamp and ball valve design setup? Can you post or send me a pic? That would be awesome!
unfun72 3 years ago
You already had a ball valve right? What do you mean by this comment. Did you just add a clamp?
scottstout 3 years ago
I've got the cooler already, and I am making a trip to Lowe's tomorrow so I can finally start my all grain brewing. Thanks for the video. I will post again when my first batch is done to let you know how it turns out.
wzl46 3 years ago
Hello, this is a great video, and very helpful. Apparently I purchased a faucet connector that appeared, and felt to be stainless steel. However, when I cut it apart, the braid seems to be some kind of nylon/plastic? Do you think this will work or should I go back to the depot and get the stainless?
jnmccra 4 years ago
Go back and get the stainless. I doubt the nylon will hold up to the weight of the grist.
jelson98 4 years ago
What is at the end of the braid that you cut? Looks like some kind of fitting?
aarunt1 4 years ago
roll up the end of the stainless braid a little then put a small hose clamp around it and tighten it till it's secure/liquid tight.
usernameusername12 4 years ago
Love the K.I.S.S. aspect of this project.
BrewDudeBob 4 years ago