just thought i would tell you that ihave made my first batch and have been using it for about a month and am getting great results everything seems so much healthier and stronger i have had my best tomato harvest i am really rapt with it iuse it once a week on my garden would it be ok for me to share this on google+ thanks for the best gardening hint ever jeremy
@jerry009ish That's perfectly fine. I made the video to help people and if you think more people can be helped and reached with Google+ then by all means please do so.
I'm thinking of modifying the recipe but I don't have the science yet to prove it's efficacy.
I once soaked some hay and manure under water that had about a gallon of worm juice added, in 3 days urine soaked hay was smelling sweet and pickled. I was messing around with the mulch at the time I didn't really think about the bacterial ferment aspect . If I used 1 part whey, 1.5 parts molasses and 1 part worm juice. I'm thinking I'll have all the bacterial microbes in combination i'll ever need?
Got it, that doesn't even sound like a problem to me if I hit that wall, I want to use the majority of the waste material for improving my inoculate high quality compost for potting soil. In my personal case my ducks literally ride my shovel if I do any digging, and subsequently dig anywhere I loosen the ground. But when I compost I can bring in 1000's of worms to feed them before I sift it for later use. When spraying bedding or manure in a bad situation can going 20:1 leverage the remediation?
When it goes bad from excess heat, is it a matter of putrifying? or is it some negative microbe going rampant? I do only aerobic hot composting 122f-150f and I presumed when exposed to air EM would function as a heat activator to help the pile cook up. But it sounds like in anaerobic conditions going over 100F seems to kill off beneficials, is it the same when there in an aerobic state?
It putrefies. The thing to do then is to go and bury it with a healthy dose of Lacto, or EM1, or Bokashi Bran. The Lacto is the main decomposer and is 50% +/- of EM1 or the bran. It will go in and break down the bad waste as will the rest of the micro biology in the soil.
I probably prefer straw or wood chips, sawdust is hard to trace. This is really getting exciting, the benefit to me absorbing all liquids with carbon instead of draining is it would go directly down as lasagna sheet mulch or for an instant gardens. Top off with a layer of compost and spritz'd straw on top and she will breakdown in place in no time. I prefer liquid applications to mulch, rather than sprinking bran on the soil surface. Is there any bacteria damage if the sprayer head is to fine?
My problem is drying the wheat bran, I don't have the surface area. As for a gallon bucket of serum I can travel with that, the shelf life difference minor as the cost is so low I'll be using it all the time. I did some 1:1:1000 calculations and I can cover an acre with a 1000l tote brewed up. This is so ultra efficient It's practically at no cost so spritzing down layered sealed containers with the 20:1 mix will again last me a good deal of time.
Hey I just wanted to say thanks allot for your time and these "At length" videos, I get so exhausted with modern snippet education, it's no way to gain understanding.
Your video showing this different states of innoculant and storage really helped me wrap my brain around the life process. One thing I didn't see was, if I want to skip making the dried inoculate bran etc. How much Em/molasses/waster is an equivalent to a handfull of bran if I'm spritzing waste down as I layer it with carbon.
Just as a simple sneeze can infect a room of people with a cold or the flu, a misting sufficient to wet the surface of the material is enough. 1 maybe 2 spritz for an area equivalent to the 5 gallon bucket or 4-5 for an area equivalent to a 55 gallon barrel. The issue with the spray bottle is that the EM mix will activate given enough time and has a definite shelf life. The dry bran properly stored is viable for years, easily transportable, and requires less to distribute (no bottle)
I plan on bringing in large amounts of waste in batch volumes so it's why i gravitated so heavily towards simply submerging the waste in an EM solution but theres no point if its in contrast to the physics of the bokashi process. I would way rather devote 1/4-1/3rd of every container to a dry carbon layer and just not have to worry i'll ever hit a liquid buildup if it is truly viable. I want to know what you think in the case of my experience base rather than as a general method for the public.
Submerging the food scraps is a waste of the EM. Lets assume that you use 10 gallons of EM1 mother culture in order to cover the materials in a 50 gallon drum. That same 10 gallons of EM1 along with 10 gallons molasses can be mixed with 1000 gallons of water to reach a standard/traditional 1:1:100 mixture. Assume 10lbs of carbon (wheat or rice or sawdust) per gallon to reach the correct moisture content. Your 1002 gallons of liquid now produce 10,020 lbs of Bokashi Bran.
Lets round down and be real conservative and say that you have 10,000 lbs of Bokashi Bran and lets assume that 1.5 lbs is used to ferment 10 gallons of waste by volume. Your conversion is now 6,666 gallons volume or (133.33) 55 gallon drums of materials with which to bury to improve soil or silage with which to feed live stock such as pigs. Your resources are best used in the dry bran state. As to the valve issue, simply cut a hole and literally cork it shut, save the drained liquids
to water and fertilize the crops. Save the physical space in the barrel for compostable materials. Bokashi is an extension of Korean Natural Farming where we take a small amount of input, cultivate it, multiply it, and use it in the most frugal yet achieve our state objective. This objective can be to increase soil fertility through microbial diversity and population, increase biological matter in the soil, increase nutrient cycling, reduce pest and disease, or self source animal feed.
I've done some more research since posting an hour ago, people seem to be suggesting for containers with no tap to add a 2-3 inch layer of dry material like sawdust or paper to the bottom to absorb excess moisture. I thermophilicaly compost allot so I'm pretty in tune with moisture management and proper layering if that "truly" is all there need be to avoid having to drain material. For an experienced composter does this sound viable. I don't want to just be hearing what I want to hear.
That advise is good and I have done it myself. Be careful with what saw dust you use because some woods are treated to reduce or arrest rotting. The chemicals used to accomplish this are very well able to kill the microbials in Bokashi Bran, Lacto, or any of the IMO preparations. There are strains of mushrooms in nature that can perform mycoremediation of these poisons and heavy metals; however, that complicates a simple solution of using non-chemical sawdust.
I'm worried it seems like the only way it can go wrong, is also linked to the major reason why it works. I thought if I could twist the technique more towards jar pickling I could work with any seal able container I can find worldwide and I only need the airlock to make it fool proof. But I guess I missed some fundamental principals to understanding why it Must be this way. I was trying to simplify the management by upping my labor, but I do like the cold composting aspects of bokashi.
Bokashi can go wrong for several reasons. Some of the most common are: too much liquid collecting without draining, fermenting wastes in direct sunlight, to high or to low and ambient temperature, adding heavily spoiled or pathogenically dominated food wastes, poor quality Bokashi Bran, not reasonably excluding air from withing the layers or top surface of the waste. I have only had one bucket ever go bad from my father's fermenter- the ambient temperature was to high at over 100F
Thanks for the great reply, I'm looking to integrate this method as one of my governing tools in composting. My worry with needing spigot's and seperation bucket's is implementing this method in 3rd world countries where rural farm scale bin's would have to be DIY. Just trying to better understand why it goes off if the juice builds up, my main fear in trying to teach this in low resource regions is not being able to get the bucket right. Id like to do this at the 55 drum scale and I'm worried.
In food fermentation for human consumption you are most concerned with arresting microbial activity and reducing microbial diversity. Bokashi is concerned with the exact opposite. We are not eliminating pathogens, we are keeping them at bay through out competition of beneficials and diversity. However, both use the lowering of PH, employing similar microbials, the secondary production of enzymes ,catalysts, proteins, and antibiotics, nutrient uptake, and increase the overall value of our end
There is no loss of nitrous oxide,CO2, or sulfur because it is consumed by phototropic and fermenting fungi. Your pre and post compost has a higher nutritional value than traditional methods and a much lower greenhouse coefficient. Nutrient cycling is accomplished by a wider spectrum of micro/macro flora in the soil than traditional methods.
Bokashi is anaerobic in as much as we are excluding air from the waste SURFACE. There most certainly will be air in the bucket above the upper most level - this is of no consequence. I wouldn't worry with an airlock because bokashi compost is a
cold composting and gas generation is of no consequence. Do not confuse using an airlock withe keeping air out of the bucket - we are keeping air off of the surface
That is it's superiority, there is no loss of ammonia - it is consumed by lact bacillus,
The drain is suggested for the fact that most of our food wastes are in excess of 60% moisture and on occasion it pools in the bottom of the bucket - especially as we push down on the food surface to exclude the air. Improper drainage or moisture management is a source of bucket failure on the few occasions that one may fail. I get liquid only about 3 of 10 times due to the way I manage my bucket. I compost even chicken soup left overs and spaghetti sauce. As I state on several of my videos,
I would never drain the liquid in my mason jar during pickling, and it's instrumental to properly submerge all food stuffs. Now I know if I don't burb my jars a fizzy explosion awaits, but with a 55 gallon drum of soil food fermenting. Couldn't I simply install a homebrew airlock so all excess pressure goes out but never in? I'm struggling to convert what I know about lacto fermentation to bokashi when it seems there's a clash in the principals of physics behind what should be the same process
I have a question that's really standing in the way of me going full tilt with bokashi fermentation on our homestead. I do alot of lacto fermenting in regards to foods, what I can't understand about the anaerobic fermentation conditions is why the spigot and the intensive drainage management. Is that more of a suggested technique that helps reduce mainstream user error, or is there some reason why it's being drained which will ultimately create airspace in a purposely sealed container?
hi
just thought i would tell you that ihave made my first batch and have been using it for about a month and am getting great results everything seems so much healthier and stronger i have had my best tomato harvest i am really rapt with it iuse it once a week on my garden would it be ok for me to share this on google+ thanks for the best gardening hint ever jeremy
jerry009ish 1 day ago
@jerry009ish That's perfectly fine. I made the video to help people and if you think more people can be helped and reached with Google+ then by all means please do so.
Best Wishes
Bryan
dkpd1581 21 hours ago
@marthale. the quickness of breakdown was very noticeable, the compost also was very airy after I applied LABS to it.
timmyg7711 1 month ago
This is the best info on the web, thank you so much, very easy to follow. I am amazed what took place in my compost bin after I applied LABS.
timmyg7711 1 month ago
@timmyg7711 Did it break down faster or what was your results?
marthale7 1 month ago
Great knowledge sharing skills and amazing completeness of points given. Greatly appreciate the information
sujathamerchant 2 months ago in playlist Korean Natural Farming
thank you for sharing this video
seihaz 2 months ago
I'm thinking of modifying the recipe but I don't have the science yet to prove it's efficacy.
I once soaked some hay and manure under water that had about a gallon of worm juice added, in 3 days urine soaked hay was smelling sweet and pickled. I was messing around with the mulch at the time I didn't really think about the bacterial ferment aspect . If I used 1 part whey, 1.5 parts molasses and 1 part worm juice. I'm thinking I'll have all the bacterial microbes in combination i'll ever need?
saybianTV 2 months ago
Got it, that doesn't even sound like a problem to me if I hit that wall, I want to use the majority of the waste material for improving my inoculate high quality compost for potting soil. In my personal case my ducks literally ride my shovel if I do any digging, and subsequently dig anywhere I loosen the ground. But when I compost I can bring in 1000's of worms to feed them before I sift it for later use. When spraying bedding or manure in a bad situation can going 20:1 leverage the remediation?
saybianTV 2 months ago
Thats a good place to start...if not just change the ratio.
dkpd1581 2 months ago
When it goes bad from excess heat, is it a matter of putrifying? or is it some negative microbe going rampant? I do only aerobic hot composting 122f-150f and I presumed when exposed to air EM would function as a heat activator to help the pile cook up. But it sounds like in anaerobic conditions going over 100F seems to kill off beneficials, is it the same when there in an aerobic state?
saybianTV 2 months ago
It putrefies. The thing to do then is to go and bury it with a healthy dose of Lacto, or EM1, or Bokashi Bran. The Lacto is the main decomposer and is 50% +/- of EM1 or the bran. It will go in and break down the bad waste as will the rest of the micro biology in the soil.
dkpd1581 2 months ago
I probably prefer straw or wood chips, sawdust is hard to trace. This is really getting exciting, the benefit to me absorbing all liquids with carbon instead of draining is it would go directly down as lasagna sheet mulch or for an instant gardens. Top off with a layer of compost and spritz'd straw on top and she will breakdown in place in no time. I prefer liquid applications to mulch, rather than sprinking bran on the soil surface. Is there any bacteria damage if the sprayer head is to fine?
saybianTV 2 months ago
No worries there, the bacteria are small enough that a few hundred million can happily fly through the spray head and not even rub elbows
dkpd1581 2 months ago
My problem is drying the wheat bran, I don't have the surface area. As for a gallon bucket of serum I can travel with that, the shelf life difference minor as the cost is so low I'll be using it all the time. I did some 1:1:1000 calculations and I can cover an acre with a 1000l tote brewed up. This is so ultra efficient It's practically at no cost so spritzing down layered sealed containers with the 20:1 mix will again last me a good deal of time.
saybianTV 2 months ago
Make sure to write back and let me know how it goes for you.
dkpd1581 2 months ago
Hey I just wanted to say thanks allot for your time and these "At length" videos, I get so exhausted with modern snippet education, it's no way to gain understanding.
Your video showing this different states of innoculant and storage really helped me wrap my brain around the life process. One thing I didn't see was, if I want to skip making the dried inoculate bran etc. How much Em/molasses/waster is an equivalent to a handfull of bran if I'm spritzing waste down as I layer it with carbon.
saybianTV 2 months ago
Just as a simple sneeze can infect a room of people with a cold or the flu, a misting sufficient to wet the surface of the material is enough. 1 maybe 2 spritz for an area equivalent to the 5 gallon bucket or 4-5 for an area equivalent to a 55 gallon barrel. The issue with the spray bottle is that the EM mix will activate given enough time and has a definite shelf life. The dry bran properly stored is viable for years, easily transportable, and requires less to distribute (no bottle)
dkpd1581 2 months ago
I plan on bringing in large amounts of waste in batch volumes so it's why i gravitated so heavily towards simply submerging the waste in an EM solution but theres no point if its in contrast to the physics of the bokashi process. I would way rather devote 1/4-1/3rd of every container to a dry carbon layer and just not have to worry i'll ever hit a liquid buildup if it is truly viable. I want to know what you think in the case of my experience base rather than as a general method for the public.
saybianTV 2 months ago
Submerging the food scraps is a waste of the EM. Lets assume that you use 10 gallons of EM1 mother culture in order to cover the materials in a 50 gallon drum. That same 10 gallons of EM1 along with 10 gallons molasses can be mixed with 1000 gallons of water to reach a standard/traditional 1:1:100 mixture. Assume 10lbs of carbon (wheat or rice or sawdust) per gallon to reach the correct moisture content. Your 1002 gallons of liquid now produce 10,020 lbs of Bokashi Bran.
dkpd1581 2 months ago
Lets round down and be real conservative and say that you have 10,000 lbs of Bokashi Bran and lets assume that 1.5 lbs is used to ferment 10 gallons of waste by volume. Your conversion is now 6,666 gallons volume or (133.33) 55 gallon drums of materials with which to bury to improve soil or silage with which to feed live stock such as pigs. Your resources are best used in the dry bran state. As to the valve issue, simply cut a hole and literally cork it shut, save the drained liquids
dkpd1581 2 months ago
to water and fertilize the crops. Save the physical space in the barrel for compostable materials. Bokashi is an extension of Korean Natural Farming where we take a small amount of input, cultivate it, multiply it, and use it in the most frugal yet achieve our state objective. This objective can be to increase soil fertility through microbial diversity and population, increase biological matter in the soil, increase nutrient cycling, reduce pest and disease, or self source animal feed.
dkpd1581 2 months ago
I've done some more research since posting an hour ago, people seem to be suggesting for containers with no tap to add a 2-3 inch layer of dry material like sawdust or paper to the bottom to absorb excess moisture. I thermophilicaly compost allot so I'm pretty in tune with moisture management and proper layering if that "truly" is all there need be to avoid having to drain material. For an experienced composter does this sound viable. I don't want to just be hearing what I want to hear.
saybianTV 2 months ago
That advise is good and I have done it myself. Be careful with what saw dust you use because some woods are treated to reduce or arrest rotting. The chemicals used to accomplish this are very well able to kill the microbials in Bokashi Bran, Lacto, or any of the IMO preparations. There are strains of mushrooms in nature that can perform mycoremediation of these poisons and heavy metals; however, that complicates a simple solution of using non-chemical sawdust.
dkpd1581 2 months ago
I'm worried it seems like the only way it can go wrong, is also linked to the major reason why it works. I thought if I could twist the technique more towards jar pickling I could work with any seal able container I can find worldwide and I only need the airlock to make it fool proof. But I guess I missed some fundamental principals to understanding why it Must be this way. I was trying to simplify the management by upping my labor, but I do like the cold composting aspects of bokashi.
saybianTV 2 months ago
Bokashi can go wrong for several reasons. Some of the most common are: too much liquid collecting without draining, fermenting wastes in direct sunlight, to high or to low and ambient temperature, adding heavily spoiled or pathogenically dominated food wastes, poor quality Bokashi Bran, not reasonably excluding air from withing the layers or top surface of the waste. I have only had one bucket ever go bad from my father's fermenter- the ambient temperature was to high at over 100F
dkpd1581 2 months ago
Thanks for the great reply, I'm looking to integrate this method as one of my governing tools in composting. My worry with needing spigot's and seperation bucket's is implementing this method in 3rd world countries where rural farm scale bin's would have to be DIY. Just trying to better understand why it goes off if the juice builds up, my main fear in trying to teach this in low resource regions is not being able to get the bucket right. Id like to do this at the 55 drum scale and I'm worried.
saybianTV 2 months ago
In food fermentation for human consumption you are most concerned with arresting microbial activity and reducing microbial diversity. Bokashi is concerned with the exact opposite. We are not eliminating pathogens, we are keeping them at bay through out competition of beneficials and diversity. However, both use the lowering of PH, employing similar microbials, the secondary production of enzymes ,catalysts, proteins, and antibiotics, nutrient uptake, and increase the overall value of our end
dkpd1581 2 months ago
There is no loss of nitrous oxide,CO2, or sulfur because it is consumed by phototropic and fermenting fungi. Your pre and post compost has a higher nutritional value than traditional methods and a much lower greenhouse coefficient. Nutrient cycling is accomplished by a wider spectrum of micro/macro flora in the soil than traditional methods.
dkpd1581 2 months ago
Bokashi is anaerobic in as much as we are excluding air from the waste SURFACE. There most certainly will be air in the bucket above the upper most level - this is of no consequence. I wouldn't worry with an airlock because bokashi compost is a
cold composting and gas generation is of no consequence. Do not confuse using an airlock withe keeping air out of the bucket - we are keeping air off of the surface
That is it's superiority, there is no loss of ammonia - it is consumed by lact bacillus,
dkpd1581 2 months ago
The drain is suggested for the fact that most of our food wastes are in excess of 60% moisture and on occasion it pools in the bottom of the bucket - especially as we push down on the food surface to exclude the air. Improper drainage or moisture management is a source of bucket failure on the few occasions that one may fail. I get liquid only about 3 of 10 times due to the way I manage my bucket. I compost even chicken soup left overs and spaghetti sauce. As I state on several of my videos,
dkpd1581 2 months ago
I would never drain the liquid in my mason jar during pickling, and it's instrumental to properly submerge all food stuffs. Now I know if I don't burb my jars a fizzy explosion awaits, but with a 55 gallon drum of soil food fermenting. Couldn't I simply install a homebrew airlock so all excess pressure goes out but never in? I'm struggling to convert what I know about lacto fermentation to bokashi when it seems there's a clash in the principals of physics behind what should be the same process
saybianTV 2 months ago
I have a question that's really standing in the way of me going full tilt with bokashi fermentation on our homestead. I do alot of lacto fermenting in regards to foods, what I can't understand about the anaerobic fermentation conditions is why the spigot and the intensive drainage management. Is that more of a suggested technique that helps reduce mainstream user error, or is there some reason why it's being drained which will ultimately create airspace in a purposely sealed container?
saybianTV 2 months ago