@dbzgt545 thanks for the pointers......its a 78 cutlass lowrider/hopper.needs to be drivable threw full range of motion,it can stretch out 24" telescopic cylinders for total lift of 45" at the rear bumper.its capable of 90" hop and the wheels dont roll forward when lifted(no teeter-totter when hopping).i did clearance the crossmember to clear the driveshaft.
ok you wanna limit your down drop with a limiting strap and you just want both sides to flex only that why you use hiem joints. When guys build baja bugs they make long tailering arms with shocks mounted to them so it does not turn the axle man. Also it looks like you drive shaft is gonna hit that cross plate you made. I would have set up the links to the side of the frame with brackets 100 percent. Or you going to have to c notch that cross plate you made for a drive shaft space.
1. Set your frame at the height you will be riding at mostly.
2. Set your rearend at level,plus 2 degrees pointing up.
3. Do not shorten your top links, this will only make matters worse.
4. Your upper link can be shorter than the bottom but I would make both links longer than they are right now, this will give you more height when you really want to lock it out in the rear.
Hope this help you or anyone else that might see this.
pluse is this a rock crawling truck, baja or street machine?
dbzgt545 1 year ago
@dbzgt545 thanks for the pointers......its a 78 cutlass lowrider/hopper.needs to be drivable threw full range of motion,it can stretch out 24" telescopic cylinders for total lift of 45" at the rear bumper.its capable of 90" hop and the wheels dont roll forward when lifted(no teeter-totter when hopping).i did clearance the crossmember to clear the driveshaft.
krewltee 1 year ago
ok you wanna limit your down drop with a limiting strap and you just want both sides to flex only that why you use hiem joints. When guys build baja bugs they make long tailering arms with shocks mounted to them so it does not turn the axle man. Also it looks like you drive shaft is gonna hit that cross plate you made. I would have set up the links to the side of the frame with brackets 100 percent. Or you going to have to c notch that cross plate you made for a drive shaft space.
dbzgt545 1 year ago
Ok I think I can help.
1. Set your frame at the height you will be riding at mostly.
2. Set your rearend at level,plus 2 degrees pointing up.
3. Do not shorten your top links, this will only make matters worse.
4. Your upper link can be shorter than the bottom but I would make both links longer than they are right now, this will give you more height when you really want to lock it out in the rear.
Hope this help you or anyone else that might see this.
nohtn 1 year ago
@nohtn i shortened my lowers and pinion is good through full lift now
krewltee 1 year ago
shorten the top links
mkyoyoyo 1 year ago
shorten the top links
mkyoyoyo 1 year ago