How to make a double sided circuit board using the toner transfer method - Part 1 of 2

[Rulox999]

sorry for the ignorance but im learning here what is the function of a having a double layered pcb?

[0ak1e]

@Rulox999 When you start using multiple components on your PCB it can become impossible to route all the traces on a single layer. The second (or third or fourth...) layer allows you space to run more direct connections or dedicate a layer to power or ground signals making connections much easier.

[0ak1e]

@cumesoftware I agree, steel wool was not the best material, but it worked at the time. Others have suggested 3M scotch pads, or similar synthetics.

[zulfiqaradil]

in your procedure you told that you on your laminator on before half an hour for all process what is the exact temprature of your laminator for perfect result

[Tda7000]

@zulfiqaradil 170°C seems best for most toners. Some printers like the newer Brothers require around 187°C or so. Most laminators run at around 115°C by default.

You can however modify them to run hotter, as I did with mine. I followed the instructions from Ultrakeet. (Search Google to find it)

[Micheljut]

You indicate to mirror print the bottom layer, is this based on the software you are using? I use Eagle and it seams mirror printing the top layer does it for me!

Great video by the way!

Michel

[0ak1e]

@Micheljut Its based on what layer your components are on. I placed all the components on the bottom layer (out of pure lack of experience) so I had to mirror that one in my design. I redesigned this with the components on the top and its much easier to understand now.

[ventureelect]

@Micheljut I alway mirror the component layer and not the solder side. Your right on.

[JoeGancher]

It can't be overstressed to gently place the board in a tray of cool water after it comes off the laminator. Let the water do it's work. I tried just running it under a gentle stream of tap water and lost half my traces.

[Tda7000]

@JoeGancher That means the toner did not stick to the copper properly. Either the board was dirty, your laminator\iron wasn't hot enough, there wasn't enough pressure or you were using the wrong paper.

After transferring with my laminator at 170°C I can rub the paper off vigorously with my fingers just fine and the toner won't come off. It will only come off if I scratch at it with something sharp.

[JoeGancher]

What a difference a laminator makes over an iron !! I bought the Scotch 3M , Model TL901 from Walmart for about $30. Passed board through on the 5 mil setting 4 times. Came out perfect.. Regrettable , I wiped of a trace by very lightly blotting a paper towel to remove some water droplets.

[JoeGancher]

What a difference a laminator makes over an iron !! I bought the Scotch 3M , Model TL901 from Walmart for about $30. Passed board through on the 5 mil setting 4 times. Came out perfect..

[JoeGancher]

Do an Ebay search for: "Heat Toner Transfer Paper for DIY PCB A5 Size 10 Sheets"

They are $3.49 for 10 half sheets, but they work with a common iron. Soak board and paper after ironing and very slowly, VERY SLOWLY peel the paper off. I tried this *&^&%$ paper in this video about 5 times before giving up. They even admit, on the manufacturers site, that this paper won't work well with an iron.

[JoeGancher]

Bloody horrible results with a clothes iron. Funny they don't mention anything about having to buy a laminator on the package. Talk about deception.

[TerminalJack505]

Thanks for making these videos. I use the same method for my boards. I was thinking about making a how-to video but you did a much better job than I could have.

[bayhoecott]

What thickness of pcb board are you passing through the GBC Personal laminator.

[steveUys]

You may want to use the manual feed tray on the laser printer in the future.  There is a chance that the tape may come loose as the paper curves through the paper path and scratch the drum or become lodged around some of the rollers. The manual tray offers an almost completely straight path through the printer, so as long as the other parts are well stuck, these (potentially costly) problems are far less likely.

[steveUys]

I have also found that pressing the green foil down with a very slightly moistened tissue or coffee filter right before it enters the laminator really helps reduce wrinkles. Also, remember that, when applying the foils, dust is the enemy, as I've found out the hard way.

Where did you find TarnX locally, if I may ask?

[0ak1e]

I found it at at Rona (local hardware store).Thanks for the tip!

[JoeGancher]

@steveUys I think he is doing that to save paper as indicated in vid but , yes, my Samsung has a manual slot on the front for smaller peaces to feed through.

[d2m2k2]

i was going to 5*, favourite, subscribe, and flag for awesomeness but i see my comments have been deleted. so nix that idea.

[0ak1e]

Must have been a glitch in the system :)

[masonclicks]

Never etch aluminum. Feric chloride reacts way more with aluminum than with copper. It will get hot and smoke. Don't do it.

[100roberthenry]

could i do this to etch an aluminium case...just using a toner image..then etchant..ferric.....if so what paper would i use..photo?..or plain..??..... cheers great vid.

[0ak1e]

I've never etched aluminum, but I've read that FeCl works fine. For the resist, again, I didn't bother with the photo paper method since I used the transfer paper from the Pulsar kits. Photopaper/magazines seem like a lot of rubbing and slow work. I recommend the transfer papers since they are so easy to apply but I understand if cost is a factor. If it is a simple enough design you could just use an exacto knife and shelf paper.