Great vid - THANKS A LOT. just like someone else asked already - it would be good to see as well, step by step, how to to stop the fall, build an anchor still with the other person hanging on rope, and transfer the load on the anchor..
Wonderful video. I am curious though as to why you use a full blown pulley when you could just use another locking biner? Your response is appreciated. Thank you very much!
@Bagelo55 a carabiner would add more friction to the system and therefore makes it harder to pull the guy up, since more of your efforts are converted to heat and friction instead of actual movement. a pulley simply "makes life easier" as said in the video. in an emergency situation, a biner would do the job of course.
I've recommended people to view it done. It would be nice for MTS to show how you construct an Anchors after holding the fall & then transfer your GT Rope system off onto the Anchors Safely. I understand that there a number of methods depending on the gear your carrying and if your alone. but assuming you filmed the whole process could you please put it on Youtube so people can see what you did , Please. It's not just me wanting this from looking at the other comment. Thanks MTScotland. BH
The "Ice axe self arrest" video has replay and voiceover at the end. If the initial self arrest and setting the anchor is added, plus a close up of the prussic at the anchor, that might clear things up.
My only question is that if your partner falls into a crevasse and you're standing there hold them, how are you supposed to set up a snow anchor while holding them? And then setting all this up.
We were confused regarding the autoblock closest to the anchor. We found it does not slide without being unweighted. It actually moves toward the anchor point and the prussic cord gets fouled in the biner.
We solved thsi by maiking the cord nearest the anchor long enough that we could reach it before it fouls.
It seems in the video that it slides withour being unweighted. What did we miss?
We practiced this method in the backyard today. Of course we did not have a crevasse but we used it as a hoist off of a rap ring we have mounted in a tall tree. We set up the horizontal rope work excatly the same.
I'm no expert, but they do refer to an "ice axe belay," which may be just an axe in the ice as the base for the whole roping rig? This video is an ad for a DVD to order from them, so I guess it would show it on the DVD. Don't know that I'd trust an axe in the ice as a belay, though they do admit that the ice axe belay will fail eventually, so not to continue to haul on the rope if the victim is snagged on the lip of the crevasse. No time to put in a screw, I guess, or the hands to do it, maybe?
The prusik rachets against the binner itself. The force of the haul and the angle of the rope making a 180 turn keeps it from sliping through the binner. however if u practice this method and haul something that is not very heavy then it may slip through. It will never slip through if u are hauling a person for real.
For those who still have not read the notes, those are extracts from comercial dvds that are on sale. Thats why everything is not unveiled ;)
Mateyhv1 5 months ago
Heeeelp =(
sidwills 8 months ago
Great vid - THANKS A LOT. just like someone else asked already - it would be good to see as well, step by step, how to to stop the fall, build an anchor still with the other person hanging on rope, and transfer the load on the anchor..
THX again
justjustin3210 8 months ago
This guy sounds so wonderfully like Jim Broadbent. Awesome video.
xyzsp 9 months ago
cool
MsBigcanoe 9 months ago
It looks as though there's only one anchor set in this example. I've found that it's always best to have a backup in case the one fails.
jonathanwphillips 10 months ago
One of the best glacier rescue videos available on the web! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us!
camilatwork 1 year ago
Very well done! Thank you for your effort.
Pumalogy 2 years ago
Wonderful video. I am curious though as to why you use a full blown pulley when you could just use another locking biner? Your response is appreciated. Thank you very much!
Bagelo55 2 years ago
@Bagelo55 a carabiner would add more friction to the system and therefore makes it harder to pull the guy up, since more of your efforts are converted to heat and friction instead of actual movement. a pulley simply "makes life easier" as said in the video. in an emergency situation, a biner would do the job of course.
paulsn 1 year ago 2
I've recommended people to view it done. It would be nice for MTS to show how you construct an Anchors after holding the fall & then transfer your GT Rope system off onto the Anchors Safely. I understand that there a number of methods depending on the gear your carrying and if your alone. but assuming you filmed the whole process could you please put it on Youtube so people can see what you did , Please. It's not just me wanting this from looking at the other comment. Thanks MTScotland. BH
BHMountain 2 years ago
Best video, on the subject, I have seen.
The "Ice axe self arrest" video has replay and voiceover at the end. If the initial self arrest and setting the anchor is added, plus a close up of the prussic at the anchor, that might clear things up.
backpackinonline 2 years ago
My only question is that if your partner falls into a crevasse and you're standing there hold them, how are you supposed to set up a snow anchor while holding them? And then setting all this up.
RBMontgo102590 2 years ago
Aside from all that stomping on the rope with his crampons on, looks fairly solid technique-wise.
badroo 2 years ago
OK. So I just read the older comments on this. Will try again with a French prussic.
Great video. Say hello to Allister.
JRandallBaker 2 years ago
We were confused regarding the autoblock closest to the anchor. We found it does not slide without being unweighted. It actually moves toward the anchor point and the prussic cord gets fouled in the biner.
We solved thsi by maiking the cord nearest the anchor long enough that we could reach it before it fouls.
It seems in the video that it slides withour being unweighted. What did we miss?
JRandallBaker 2 years ago
We practiced this method in the backyard today. Of course we did not have a crevasse but we used it as a hoist off of a rap ring we have mounted in a tall tree. We set up the horizontal rope work excatly the same.
JRandallBaker 2 years ago
Nice job!
1ofmanyamericans 2 years ago
the most informative crevasse rescue video I have seen yet! I only wish that he showed how he built the anchor.... oh well, still AWESOME!
oregonbeermachine 2 years ago
I'm no expert, but they do refer to an "ice axe belay," which may be just an axe in the ice as the base for the whole roping rig? This video is an ad for a DVD to order from them, so I guess it would show it on the DVD. Don't know that I'd trust an axe in the ice as a belay, though they do admit that the ice axe belay will fail eventually, so not to continue to haul on the rope if the victim is snagged on the lip of the crevasse. No time to put in a screw, I guess, or the hands to do it, maybe?
VoteMilesAgain 2 years ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
boring. hey did any one remember michael jackson, wow he was the best
kingicered 2 years ago
if it was me i would just grab the rope that they are on and pulll
lol dont know jack about saving people from a crevasse all i know is that they can be very deep and very dangerous
kareemab33 2 years ago
putting a bag is dangerous
youjib 2 years ago
The prusik rachets against the binner itself. The force of the haul and the angle of the rope making a 180 turn keeps it from sliping through the binner. however if u practice this method and haul something that is not very heavy then it may slip through. It will never slip through if u are hauling a person for real.
1brownfalcon 2 years ago
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1brownfalcon 2 years ago
Comment removed
1brownfalcon 2 years ago
how do you stop the ratchet prussik running thru the top anchor krabiner?
panzergrenadier90 3 years ago
im confused about this as well
Qbynordi 3 years ago
You can use an ATC through the biner and having the rope go through it as well.
kurtpartha 2 years ago
0:20 LOLOLOL
Sarah5757658432 3 years ago
Very nice. you do things a little different than we do in the Cascades,however it looks like it works great!
spencers63 4 years ago