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From: DenLorsTools
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  • do you know of any one that makes an alloy intake manifold for the 3.8L. The closest I have found was the W body store, they have a fiberglass reinforced intake manifold

  • I didn't use this tool. I just cracked the bolts on the rocker very slightly then just squeezed the pushrods out. Then used an egg carton so I could remember where each one went.

  • Click the link at the beginning of the video description, for more information on the repair. Or Google DenLors GM 3.1 and 3.4 Intake Gasket Replacement Tips. DennisB

  • @DenLorsTools Do I need to rotate the engine at all to avoid any damage when using this tool?

  • @rredd47 Good question, this is covered in our repair article. It may be necessary to turn the engine a little if you you have difficulty getting enough room to remove any of the pushrods. Some guys don't realize this, force the too much leverage on the tool and can actually break the tool at one of the welds. Thanks for the question and good luck.

  • I have a question. I recently did this work on a 2003 Malibu. Why did you not pull the valve covers? The gaskets have to be changed anyway. I like the tool though. Please respond.

  • The front VC is removed during this job. The rear VC does not have to be removed to change the intake gaskets (this saves time by not removing some of the components) You can change the rear VC gasket too, if it's leaking. The tool allows removal of the pushrods so you can replace the intake gaskets (the pusrods go in betwen the holes of the gaskets). The pushrod bolts are threaded into the aluminum heads. It's best to avoid working those threads if possible, they strip easily. DennisB

  • @DenLorsTools

    Thanks, I know that the rod guides are there, but I like the tool, nice to have next time.

  • @caddop22 Yes, the guides for the pushrods are built into the intake gaskets. And yes, the pushods are different lengths for intake and exhaust. I know you've already done at least one of these jobs and you are aware of this, but I mention it for other guys that may be reading this prior to their 1st job of this type.. I also recommend using a Lisle LIS24610 funnel to help fill the system with coolant after the job is back together. This helps to get the air out of the cooling system. DennisB

  • @DenLorsTools

    Ok, thanks man. I do wish I would had that tool though, instead of taking the valve assemblies loose and then having to make sure the pedestals were lined up. I understand letting folks know what they are getting into prior to diassembly.

  • Please, can you please make the music a bit louder? Cause I am sure maybe one person in my local coffee shop didn't hear the music when it came on...

  • I replaced the intake manifold gasket with a felpro, and used RTV on the valley portion, no sign of a leak, but the overheating is pretty fast. I havent checked the fuses, but which ones could lead to it overheating. I also replaced the temp sensor which wasnt working before either. I did a cylinder leakage test prior to replacing the gasket and it showed fine.

  • I replaced the intake manifold gasket with a felpro, and used RTV on the valley portion, no sign of a leak, but the overheating is pretty fast. I havent checked the fuses, but which ones could lead to it overheating. I also replaced the temp sensor which wasnt working before either.

  • @chrisfrisina

    Did you make sure the Coolant system is completely bleed of all air? Is the thermostat ok?

  • @Chrisfrisnia: have u performed a cylinder leakage test. This is different from a compression test. By doing this you will rule out a possible head gasket problem. Also, how is the intake manifold gasket, is it leaking yet. Plus, do u have a missfire or MIL on?

  • do you no push rode order for a 3100 if miss place push rode

  • Comment removed

  • I just did the intake gaskets on a 1997 Cutlass Supreme 3100 5 days ago. Stuck in the Fel-Pro rubber and metal gaskets I did not need this tool. I just used a small adjustable wrench to lift the rockers. Use a box with 12 holes in it to keep push rods in order. You might have to rotate the engine to give the valve clearance. If you do it wrong = engine damage

    Do not use Dex cool use the old green stuff

    Car ran great after the repair. It has 203000 miles on it.

    Time will tell if it holds

  • The Valve train Push rod on this engine are of different length.

    DO NOT MIX PUSH-ROD.

    If the push rod is place in the wrong cam lifer. The valve will bend/damage when the engine rotate for starting.

  • What song is this?

  • Yea, good tool. You can leave the rear valve cover on plus the rest of the items. Pay attention to the pushrod lengths since they are different in regards to int. and exh. Mix them up and you will bend a valve on startup!! ALWAYS PAY ATTENTION!!

  • These motors where plaged with those shitty plastic lower intake gaskets GM used plus Dex-Cool which make a bad combination. These things come into the shop all the time for this.

    Use the improved steel framed lower intake gasket from Fel-Pro and use new bolts. Torque the bolts to the revised torque spec (included in the Fel-Pro box with new gasket) and use "Permatex Right Stuff" for sealer on the front and back and you'll be fine.

    Finally flush that Dex-Cool crap and refill with green.

  • Also Lisle put the welds on the outside of the tool. This prevented me from being able to manouver in between a few of the really close together rocker arms because the outside weld bead interfered. The welds should have been made on the inside and the outside edges ground smooth so that you can fit it in between several of the close together rocker arms without the outer weld bead getting in the way.

    On Malibu or Century engine bays the handle won't the top of the engine bay.

  • I used this tool and it saves a lot of time. But in a cramped Chevy Venture engine bay with the front motor mounts unbolted the handle of this tool will hit the upper part of the engine bay on a few of the rear rocker arms preventing you from removing the pushrods because you can't go all the way up. This means you have to ratchet the motor forward to clear or remove the valve cover and some rocker arms afterall. The end of the handle should have been slightly curved downward to fix this.

  • Thanks for your input. On some of the earlier Lisle 48500's the length interfered with the cowl (near the windshield). Remove the plastic handle and cut off a couple of inches, round the corners and slip the handle back on. The newer ones are the shorter length which clears a lot better.

  • @DenLorsTools

    Yes the upper cowl is what I'm reffering to. I was not aware that Lisle had revised the tool to resolve this issue until I read your blog last night shortly after. There is some really great info on your blog. I've book marked it into my favorites. Great site.

    The one I was using that time was the boss's tool so I could not modify it.

    A total of three rear (firewall side) rocker ams had to be loosened and swung aside due to this problem.

  • @TranceScene --- what is the torque specs on the 3.1 for the intake manifold i have a haynes manual yet i dont see it it states torque to specified in this chapter but i just dont see it lol. 

  • @TranceScene I ran into the same problem you did on a 3.1L chevy venture

  • easy shit job for shit cars.. buy cars from japan and save a ton on failing parts and poorly engineered cars.. Coming from a auto tech from chevy . trucks are ok but the cars are crap

  • @shakespir23 --- dont i know it lol i have an 01 lumina can you please give me some advise on this thing?? cooling fans do work i have replaced all relays temp sensor and flushed out the dexcool crap and replaced with green as many has recomended to me. turn ac on the fans work with the ac off they do not kick on at all the gauge shows hot and keeps going into the red. the actual red hot light that i assume indicates overheating does not come on. which sensor or such could it be??

  • @mysubsbang I have the same exact issue, I replaced relays, and temps sensors, made sure there was no air in the system, but still gets near the overheating mark on the guage. Replaced hoses, and tested compression, all good. any other clues. its the 3.1 engine in an 01 lumina.

  • @chrisfrisina -- the valleys are leaking get the intake gasket replaced and have the valleys sealed properly make sure the gasket is the upgraded fel pro metal gasket kit. and check all fuses.

  • I wish I had this tool when my intake gaskets finally gave out for the first time on my 98 century with 225,000 original miles. It was a pain in the ass when I had to remove the two bolts that suport the ignition coils. Oh well now i know.

  • but the 3100 is a fast ass motor. its faster than the 34 and the 38 non SC.

  • @stupidplants 3800 would whoop any 31's ass they put the 3.8s in bigger gm cars because of the torque they have, while those 31's get to go in the midsize sedan's , but all in all these engines have good torque and make any large car giddie up my friends lumina(3.1) will literally float to highway speeds compared to my sebring's of equal bodysize.

  • the 3400 in my gma's '02 impala has an 8 second 0-60 time. thats a base model and a big car, the 3800 impala isn't too much faster than that. don't under estimate the 3100/3400 engines.

  • tru, but great motors all of them too bad gm replaced them with the 3.9 Land 3.6 hope they purr

  • @iGaRaai90 my 94 beretta will kill a 3800 in a camaro

  • Song?

  • ugh i have to do one on my friends 3400 motor at my shop. just an annoying job

  • so you have done these intakes before ?? why do i need this tool?? i dont need to play with the pushrods i assume right?? i mean i dont see any reason why unless i need to clean them.

  • you need to get the push rods out cuz they are interweaved with the actual gasket, its stupid.. this tool makes it so you dont have to take the valve covers off, which honestly isn't much more work, (except the back valve cover which is kinda a bitch to get out), and when the valve covers are off you loosen (LOOSEN, dont take off!) the bolts holding the rocker arms enough so you can lift the rockers up and off the rods and pull the rods out.. i can see how this tool can save time

  • canada did a class action on them for it i wonder if we could to. :) GM slapped with gasket class-action lawsuit in Canada, claims could hit $1.2 billion. ill copy and paste it in your email.

  • yeah i know.. it wasn't my car that i had to do though, it was a customers at my shop.. theres also a class action lawsuit against dexron coolant as well since that coolant has a tendency to go through electrolysis (due to poor grounds) making the coolant more accident and killing all the gaskets

  • damn i didnt know about the coolant lawsuit to. i know that junk stuff is bad. wow thats crazy apparently i shoulda stuck with ford lol. my escort i sold to get this lumina i had it for 3 yrs no issues at all lol. and this thing has countless issues. small usual stuff you gotta do but still that escort i put gas in and went lol.

  • yeah working on cars everyday, GMs are one of the most troublesome.. fords aren't too bad, but if you want somethign that dont have that many problems? toyotas the way to go haha

  • thanks man i have my eye on a maxima lol.

  • what about nissans? sentra

  • @mysubsbang hey man could I get a copy of that too? I had a 1996 Corsica with this issue. Only had 112,000 miles and I was an unlucky soldier that it ONLY leaked into my motor oil. I changed it one day and it was cappuccino colored and I looked into it. I knew GM got into trouble, but a lawsuit in Canada? Damn haha. If you want my e-mail, I'll send it to you in a PM.

  • @mysubsbang Can you send me one too please, thank you.

  • but cant you peel the gasket off with the pushrods in, because the gaskets are just underneath the pushrods, it would save you time, i think thats what the dealer did to my dads 07 impala, only had 25,000 miles and the intake gasket (rear) started leaking coolant, but they only had the car in the shop, not even 2 hours, prolly an hour and a half

  • no, the push rods have to come out.. like i said, the push rods i kinda like weaved in out of the intake gasket. you can prob cut the gasket up and take it off without removing the pushrods, but then going back in you'd have to take them off

  • oh because it looks like the gasket sits behind the pushrods thats y i thought u could leave them in, but with that tool it would save some headaches though

  • they have this tool of course lol watch the video says it saves 2 hrs worth of work of course they charged you for the time they saved thats how they make money but if you do one gasket the rule of thumb is always do the second as well with any gasket head gasj=kets intake etc. you just got screwed cause the other will go eventualy and they will charge you the same again even though you paid for the kit onec which the kit comes with all the gaskets they just got free parts for the next sucker

  • oh yea, it would make no sense at all, if you already have the intake off, y would you do just one gasket?, i mean i cut corners, but theres just some corners you dont cut

  • Gaskets go behind pushrods.

  • @DenLorsTools --- yeah i figured that out after a while great vid man thanks.

  • Comment removed

  • If you've done enough of them, the extra time to remove the coil and rear valve cover is miniscule. Not to mention the fact that you SHOULD be replacing valve cover gaskets doing this job. The people are paying for it to be done, corners should not be cut.

  • so do it this way, then pop off the valve covers and replace the gaskets. you dont have to adjust anything after putting the rods back in like you would if you removed it the hard way

  • That's right! Removing the alt, and rear valve cover doesn't take long. I have a 3.1 in the garage right now. My customer is paying me to replace ALL of the gaskets. Guys, use FEL-PRO MS98004T!, as it's the problem solver gasket. (Yes, I have that part # memorized.) DO IT RIGHT!

  • @de31168 Agreed. Besides, how good would that look for you as a shop (or mechanic if you do it on the side) if the car came back a month or two later for a nice oil leak because the seal was broken on the valve cover? Now you HAVE to pull the alternator and coils/ICM to pull the cover, and the customer gets to go without a vehicle again and pay more money to have what could have been done the first time around. I would use the tool as opposed to loosening and tightening rockers though...

  • Comment removed

  • @de31168

    I use the tool to ensure no lifter noise on startup but still replace the valve cover gaskets. In a cramped Venture bay you can't see the rear rocker nuts to set final rocker nut torque angle if you removed them to get the pushrods out. You'll need a digital torque wrench with angle feature to be 100% sure. With the tool you don't have to worry about that. Whe doing this job you should also always remove the oil pump shaft and install a new o-ring on it while it's in plain access.

  • why would you make a video advertising a product without showing how to actually use it? the scene fades out right as the person begins to put it to use. i can use my imagination but why should i have to? poor advert.

  • This vid is perfect, If you have any clue what's typically involved with changing this intake gasket then you should have no problem appreciating the content of this video.  It you were not able to figure out how it works from this then you certainly shouldn't be attempting this project. This took is extremely easy to use not to mention it cuts about 2 hours off the job. Don't mix up your push rods. LOL

  • please help why do i need to remove the push rods in the first place?? i have to do my lumina it has been leeking for at leaste 2 yrs now not into the engine or anything just out the sides of the motor. i can see how to use it it looks very easy but i dont get why i need it.

  • Very cool, would have been handy on the couple I have done. Like how you can leave the valve covers, coils, and alternator on... Should sell those with packs of fuel rail o-rings!

  • haha true that. Did the 3100 on my Corsica. Didn't have the tool in this video...haha we had fun :]

  • More or less, the whole coil pack, back valve cover and the studs that hold the coil pack all had to be removed so I could access the rocker arms...someone was using their head when they created this tool lol

  • I've always just used a medium sized pry bar...

  • Another 10 minutes, would have had that v/cover off. Any lifters damaged reported?

  • lifter damage???

  • just picked up on of these last week.. a real time saver & they're lifetime warranty.

  • Fel-Pro's FTW!!!!!

  • Ever have them come back for the rear valve cover leaking?

  • This tool definitely saves time. Upgraded gaskets are a great idea too and I also recommend Right Stuff gasket maker instead of regular silicone on each end of the lower intake... For more auto repair tips and tool recommendations, see our posts at DenLors Auto Blog.

  • can you find right stuff at any auto part store or is it hard to find?im going to do my oil pan gasket on my 3.3L plymouth and want to use the best stuff

  • Advance Auto has the right stuff on the sales floor with the other gasket makers

  • All I know is that thanks to GM and their intake problems I have job security.

  • I just did these gaskets on my gf's car, 2000 grand prix. Just a lot of parts to remove!

  • shoulda put a felpro in that engine! its gonna leak again inna year or less!! people should stop using those factory style gaskets....even if it does have a metal anti-crush ring on it...just thought I'd letcha know.

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